Manual matinance

[firstrctruck]

seems kinda extreme on page 27,28
Do you guys follow this or have other thought.
If it ain't broke......
The driveshaft maintenance after 10 set of batteries? One example

 

[Afro Samurai]

seems kinda extreme on page 27,28
Do you guys follow this or have other thought.
If it ain't broke......
The driveshaft maintenance after 10 set of batteries? One example

hhmm...well...I tell you that would be ideal depending on how hard you drive it...let me explain...

those shafts have splines torque tubes made of aluminum...lots of hard lands...impact torque loading under power..etc...the shafts twist. ..putting the u joints out of phase...causing vibrations...lockups..and even worse..the shaft ends can no longer telescope because those spline channels that were straight are now a spiral..or perhaps even has a kink..

they will fail at some point...good landings guys...hard lands on high traction surfaces while under high throttle shocks those driveshafts...same in real on road race cars...my alum driveshaft takes a beating but my carbon fiber holds up better...

so the twisting affects it's ability to slide and telescope through the suspension travel ranges...causing binding and heat build up...good news...most cases..you just replace the aluminum center portion...done...

hhmm...well...I tell you that would be ideal depending on how hard you drive it...let me explain...

those shafts have splines torque tubes made of aluminum...lots of hard lands...impact torque loading under power..etc...the shafts twist. ..putting the u joints out of phase...causing vibrations...lockups..and even worse..the shaft ends can no longer telescope because those spline channels that were straight are now a spiral..or perhaps even has a kink..

they will fail at some point...good landings guys...hard lands on high traction surfaces while under high throttle shocks those driveshafts...same in real on road race cars...my alum driveshaft takes a beating but my carbon fiber holds up better...

so the twisting affects it's ability to slide and telescope through the suspension travel ranges...causing binding and heat build up...good news...most cases..you just replace the aluminum center portion...done...

So basically ..just make sure they are sliding freely...etc...and are still in proper phase...a little out may be ok...but at some point...replace the center...

 

[Cheez]

Very well said! Preventative maintenance can save a lot of headaches. I believe the saying is " An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure ". I was intimidated by the maintenance also, but I'm determined to get my fingers on every part possible.

I'm finding that doing each scheduled maintenance in the order listed in the manual increases my familiarity with each aspect of the truck. It's a learning process. It's more fun ( and cheaper ) than talking it to the lhs and handing them the manual and asking them to do it and hoping they do it correctly.

 

[firstrctruck]

Did the rear last night. (Drive shaft lube/ inspection)Yeah no big deal
Thx

 

[BUILTLIGHTWOUNDTIGHT]

Dude, after reading this. I'm thinking that I should actually read the manual. Anybody using WD-40 on the Axles?

 

[Afro Samurai]

Dude, after reading this. I'm thinking that I should actually read the manual. Anybody using WD-40 on the Axles?

noo...don't use wd40...use protectant or lubricants...a dry tef lube would also work.....just use plain dino oil...if you must..doesn't take much...don't over think it...you don't want to attract dirt and have things start wearing away faster......but yes..read the manual.

to be honest ..don't panic...the u joints have loads of slop because they are not using bearings...oil lightly periodically...dry lubes would be best...and have fun...

 

[BUILTLIGHTWOUNDTIGHT]

I am asking because I have ran a Honcho for 12 months on 3S without any Grease in any of the Bearings. This Honcho was a Submarine for those 12 months. I know my way wasn't for most people, but I never lost a Bearing in the 12 months of running. I am sold on WD-40!!!

 

[Cheez]

No!
I use blaster with teflon

 

[Afro Samurai]

I am asking because I have ran a Honcho for 12 months on 3S without any Grease in any of the Bearings. This Honcho was a Submarine for those 12 months. I know my way wasn't for most people, but I never lost a Bearing in the 12 months of running. I am sold on WD-40!!!

I am just one opinion among thousands. ..use what works for you...have fun

 

[BUILTLIGHTWOUNDTIGHT]

noo...don't use wd40...use protectant or lubricants...a dry tef lube would also work.....just use plain dino oil...if you must..doesn't take much...don't over think it...you don't want to attract dirt and have things start wearing away faster......but yes..read the manual.

to be honest ..don't panic...the u joints have loads of slop because they are not using bearings...oil lightly periodically...dry lubes would be best...and have fun...

Afro Samurai, thanks for the heads up!!!

 

[Afro Samurai]

No!
I use blaster with teflon

my feelings also. .

 

[BUILTLIGHTWOUNDTIGHT]

You have a great point sir!!!

Blaster with Teflon? Walmart???

 

[Cheez]

You have a great point sir!!!

No!
I use blaster with teflon

Item # 236635 Model # 16-TDL

Lowes

 

[BUILTLIGHTWOUNDTIGHT]

I'm going to be running a lot of asphalt, grass, concrete... Not really a dirt/dust kinda mober I live in the asphalt jungle, so she's going to be pretty clean most of the time.

Item # 236635 Model # 16-TDL

Lowes

AWESOMENESS, and thanks man!!!

 

[Cheez]

Then you will want to research RPM and Tbone racing

 

[BUILTLIGHTWOUNDTIGHT]

The WD-40 is put on before the run, and after the run anything that has stuck on the truck, washes right off. I used to add it to the front, rear axles, and the trany before every run. I couldn't drive it in the house anymore, but no grease and never killed a bearing in the 12 months. I see your point about attracting the dust/dirt. This makes sense