Max amps and max voltage

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I'm not sure its a full time gig for the people running Fast Lane. Getting responses can take a few hours or a week and the last time I ordered they had to send an invoice by email because they were having website issues. I've made 5 orders so far though and every time they ship within 1-2 days and the products have been superb quality.
I emailed them around Thanksgiving because the Bandit chassis had been out of stock for 3 or 4 months and they told me several things would be getting restocked in early/mid December including the Bandit chassis.
 
I'm not sure its a full time gig for the people running Fast Lane. Getting responses can take a few hours or a week and the last time I ordered they had to send an invoice by email because they were having website issues. I've made 5 orders so far though and every time they ship within 1-2 days and the products have been superb quality.
I emailed them around Thanksgiving because the Bandit chassis had been out of stock for 3 or 4 months and they told me several things would be getting restocked in early/mid December including the Bandit chassis.
Good to know. I see they have a "notification " option..might still miss out though by the sounds of it. I don't even have the bandit yet,so..🤣🤣
 
Simple question: Do volts matter on an esc if the motor/esc are a proper match? I know amps do, but trying to figure out if its just amps that matter on an esc.

I'm putting electronics in a scratch build (2wd extended Bandit). I've got the new Hobbywing Max10 G2 which is 140a. I ordered a Hobbystar 2400kv 4068 motor (the 4s limit on Hobbywing's published specs for the G2). The motor also list a 110A limit and a voltage limit of 20v. I assume that means 4s capable with some headroom, not quiet 6s capable? I'm planning to run 4s almost 100% of the time.

Thing that made me curious is the 2650kv version of the motor is 122A, which would be too much for my old Max10 sct, but voltage would still be fine.

First scratch build and just trying to double check my own thinking, lol. 🤣
Hey, how's this project coming along? I have the bandit from my brother, 3s vxl system installed. It's a ripper!! Too much power IMO. Can't keep the front on the ground,LOL.
I'm eyeing that FLM ext chassis..but what body for it? Is there a good fit available?
I've been running the bandit on old 2.2 proline st tires..buggy tires just too small to be useful to me..
 
Hey, how's this project coming along? I have the bandit from my brother, 3s vxl system installed. It's a ripper!! Too much power IMO. Can't keep the front on the ground,LOL.
I'm eyeing that FLM ext chassis..but what body for it? Is there a good fit available?
I've been running the bandit on old 2.2 proline st tires..buggy tires just too small to be useful to me..
Haha, funny you should ask. I was planning to post a build thread today or tomorrow. I've had the parts for a little while but have been having a lot of nerve issues that makes it difficult to work on small stuff with my hands right now.

Started on it a little over a week ago and have it pretty close to completion now. Still need to solder new motor and esc connectors and arrange all the wiring. After that I have a temporary wing mount setup (Arrma body mounts, lol), would like to figure out a better set up for that. Not 100% sure how the body will mount, but I think I can figure out something to make the stock body work at least good enough for a little while.

Would like to find a longer buggy or Rustler like body that would fit the extended length and still be tall in the back instead of dropping down like a lot of the 1/8 buggy bodies do. The FLM chassis has a slot that lets you reverse the transmission so that your motor is in front of the rear wheels, would certainly make it easier to keep the front end down, especially with that 4068 can! Only downside is it will make the space for the battery limited to shorter battery lengths. Also trying to figure out a possible center brace? Not sure if it needs it, but would rather not find out the hard way if I can figure out something. There is a hole in the bottom center of the shock tower about the same height as 2 holes in the top of the aluminum upper chassis plate.

Hope I can finish it this weekend if my hands will cooperate! :cool:

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Haha, funny you should ask. I was planning to post a build thread today or tomorrow. I've had the parts for a little while but have been having a lot of nerve issues that makes it difficult to work on small stuff with my hands right now.

Started on it a little over a week ago and have it pretty close to completion now. Still need to solder new motor and esc connectors and arrange all the wiring. After that I have a temporary wing mount setup (Arrma body mounts, lol), would like to figure out a better set up for that. Not 100% sure how the body will mount, but I think I can figure out something to make the stock body work at least good enough for a little while.

Would like to find a longer buggy or Rustler like body that would fit the extended length and still be tall in the back instead of dropping down like a lot of the 1/8 buggy bodies do. The FLM chassis has a slot that lets you reverse the transmission so that your motor is in front of the rear wheels, would certainly make it easier to keep the front end down, especially with that 4068 can! Only downside is it will make the space for the battery limited to shorter battery lengths. Also trying to figure out a possible center brace? Not sure if it needs it, but would rather not find out the hard way if I can figure out something. There is a hole in the bottom center of the shock tower about the same height as 2 holes in the top of the aluminum upper chassis plate.

Hope I can finish it this weekend if my hands will cooperate! :cool:

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Lookin good, sorry for the health condition.
Are those 2.8 badlands?
That body doesn't look bad at all, some short extensions at the rear would do it for me.
I'm gonna try to keep as much of the plastic parts as possible due to cost and weight.
Figuring any tires/wheels made for the rustler should do well.
 
I must say,all the flex from the towers and such have really surprised me with how much of a beating the bandit can take. 6 foot high jumps in below freezing temps, 50mph(ish) cartwheels!!😮😱🤣🤣 I'd like to retain some of that forgiveness. I see aluminum shock towers exposed and cringe!! Your's look pretty substantial..but I'm still hesitant of aluminum in that area. Time will tell me if I need full beefcake or not.
 
Lookin good, sorry for the health condition.
Are those 2.8 badlands?
That body doesn't look bad at all, some short extensions at the rear would do it for me.
I'm gonna try to keep as much of the plastic parts as possible due to cost and weight.
Figuring any tires/wheels made for the rustler should do well.
I wanted a little extra ground clearance so I got the belted Badlands 2.8 on the rear and Badlands sct tires for the front.
Hoping the wheels on the belted ones hold up to a lighter 4s rig, I know a lot of people here have cracked the belted Badlands wheels or hexes on Arrma 6s rigs.

I pretty much went all out on this build, I'm limited on space so this will probably be my last new rig for a long time.
 
I wanted a little extra ground clearance so I got the belted Badlands 2.8 on the rear and Badlands sct tires for the front.
Hoping the wheels on the belted ones hold up to a lighter 4s rig, I know a lot of people here have cracked the belted Badlands wheels or hexes on Arrma 6s rigs.

I pretty much went all out on this build, I'm limited on space so this will probably be my last new rig for a long time.
Well it looks awesome already IMO!! I've never had a need for belted tires, the bandit may be the exception. Not sure depends whether I ever leave home with it. I don't have enough open space for the speed that necessarily requires belted.
Last I looked at FLM they had the ext chassis but not the kit that includes the top plate..does the TRX plastic top plate work with the ext chassis?
 
Yes, the plastic top plate fits.

I'm sure I'll try some other tires also, but wanted the belted Badlands because they are 5 inches tall but are only 2.2 inches wide insted of 2.7 like regular mt Badlands.
Belted isn't necessary, but I do like them with my Stampede on 4s for some conditions.
 
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