Max6 replacement fan

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I have found the problem and contacted hw so maybe they will fix it.

The problem is that the heatsink in the esc is badly designed it causes the fan to break easily.
the four corners of the fan is elevated from the center so most of the fan is "in the air" and not supported , each time you jump the car all the force goes to the center of the fan and breaks it.

what i did to fix it is Dremel it down.

IMG-20200215-WA0070.jpg
IMG_20200215_182738_Bokeh__01.jpg
IMG_20200215_183800.jpg
 
I have found the problem and contacted hw so maybe they will fix it.

The problem is that the heatsink in the esc is badly designed it causes the fan to break easily.
the four corners of the fan is elevated from the center so most of the fan is "in the air" and not supported , each time you jump the car all the force goes to the center of the fan and breaks it.

what i did to fix it is dremel it down.
That distance is to allow the air to flow better. As you reduce the gap, some of that air reflects back into the fan.
 
I had some little generic rubber "feet" that you would put on electronics or whatever that had adhesive on them. No clue where I got them, but I had 20 or 30 at one point all stuck to a piece of wax paper like buttons. It was too thick at first, so I sanded it down gently with a dremel sander drum until it just barely made contact with the fins on the esc heat sink in the middle. It's a very solid rubber. Then I stuck it to the motor side of the fan.

They looked just like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Anti-Skid-Shock-Absorbing-Protection/dp/B01LDLJF5K

I did this on the max6 I put in my ERBEv2 and outcast. Will find out in the spring how it does. I've run the ERBEv2 a couple times since the max6 install, but I haven't run the outcast yet. Now that I'm thinking about it... I'm not 100% sure I put the rubber spacer on both of them... I should check.
 
That distance is to allow the air to flow better. As you reduce the gap, some of that air reflects back into the fan.
There is enough space for the air to flow.
the gap is so stupid that i am amazed that hobbywing did such huge mistake .
No wonder that so many fans broke , i wonder if other models share the same mistake.
 
There is enough space for the air to flow.
the gap is so stupid that i am amazed that hobbywing did such huge mistake .
No wonder that so many fans broke , i wonder if other models share the same mistake.
The space is what makes the fan more efficient. ??‍♂️
 
I just super glue a washer to the center of the fan still keeps the gap but reinforces the part that needs it most so there's not a gap
So, what I think I understand is, the washer forms a post, right? The washer makes the fan touch down on the heat sink, so it's not "hovering"?
 
I have found the problem and contacted hw so maybe they will fix it.

The problem is that the heatsink in the esc is badly designed it causes the fan to break easily.
the four corners of the fan is elevated from the center so most of the fan is "in the air" and not supported , each time you jump the car all the force goes to the center of the fan and breaks it.

what i did to fix it is dremel it down.
The blades are hitting the arms that form the guard on top. Has nothing to do with the heatsink.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/tired-of-breaking-fan-blades-try-this.19008/#post-261871
 
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The blades are hitting the arms that form the guard on top. Has nothing to do with the heatsink.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/tired-of-breaking-fan-blades-try-this.19008/#post-261871
I think both ideas might be superior, I’m going to do it (closing the gap and trimming the blade tips). Is it possible the fan blades hit the guard because it bounces back up after it flexes down when you land? I bet crashes could make the fan “gyro-twist” too and hit (I’m determined to never have a problem with my new Max6/4985). ? ?
 
I think Mr.Duke is right. I took mine apart and the fans motor shaft has travel, about 2mm. It’s not bad enough that the fans force can lift the shaft but I think the fans force will make it easier for a little momentum to make it hit the shroud. I can make it touch the shroud by pushing it... so, I found a way to block the travel. I got a black round plastic countersink screw cover and sanded it down and superglued it to the bottom of the shroud’s grill with only a tiny amount of space, about .25mm. Sanded the mating surface too. ??

C1BE945B-28D9-4640-BE66-EC085D6EDC67.jpeg
 
I found a way to block the travel. I got a black round plastic countersink screw cover and sanded it down and superglued it to the bottom of the shroud’s grill with only a tiny amount of space, about .25mm.
Your idea looks really good and it's certainly less hassle than Mr.Dukes method. I know Duke's method works well and it's proven, but I'm up for trying any ideas to save replacing fans..!!
The more ideas we come up with the better I say..???
 
I installed a WTF trumpet in my max 6.

https://www.wildturbofan.com/product-page/windy-trumpet-fan

This fan moves some air. As it comes it won't fit. I sanded the sides of the fan shroud and matched it up to the stock fan until it fit perfect with the original shield. Took some effort but now my temps are sub 120 after a long hard run.
Hey bud l went for the wtf fan after reading your post and yes it doesn't fit
Looks like it will need plenty of sanding
.It seems to be taller aswell .Hope it works out
 
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