MEGA V3 rear input gear, BLX motor mount

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Kojetta

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I bought the Mega brushed typhon to get into the hobby, and learn as I upgrade components. I've found that the rear output on my slipper clutch is fracturing like crazy. I'm running the 57t 32p slipper assembly from the 3s, in the BLX aluminum motor mount. It seams the input gear of the MEGA differential isn't engaging as far as it should into the output of the clutch, causing the stress fracturing.

Is this a rookie move? Does the input gear need to be upgraded? Each model has a 13t input gear, is the shaft length different?
20220731_213537.jpg
 
I bought the Mega brushed typhon to get into the hobby, and learn as I upgrade components. I've found that the rear output on my slipper clutch is fracturing like crazy. I'm running the 57t 32p slipper assembly from the 3s, in the BLX aluminum motor mount. It seams the input gear of the MEGA differential isn't engaging as far as it should into the output of the clutch, causing the stress fracturing.

Is this a rookie move? Does the input gear need to be upgraded? Each model has a 13t input gear, is the shaft length different?
View attachment 233844
Which version MEGA ?

If it’s the V3 it has the same diffs as BLX.

Slippers are pretty weak in this area, @Velodromed has a fix for this where slide a inner bearing race on the rear side of the slipper.


Edit : Here’s the Arrma part number for the slipper reinforcement sleeve:
ARA311157
 
Yeah, it's the V3, I had that in the title. That sounds like a simple solution. I figured theres only so much that pot metal can handle when I decide to run 4s to a 1900kv motor with a 21t pinion gear. That a bit of torque. I appreciate your help!
 
Which version MEGA ?

If it’s the V3 it has the same diffs as BLX.

Slippers are pretty weak in this area, @Velodromed has a fix for this where slide a inner bearing race on the rear side of the slipper.


Edit : Here’s the Arrma part number for the slipper reinforcement sleeve:
ARA311157
That part of the slipper hub will mushroom then crack over time so the reinforcement sleeve is needed. You can buy one or as mentioned above use the inner race from an old bearing of the same size that’s on the slipper hub. I cut the outer race with a Dremel and it comes apart easy but someone else mentioned placing the bearing on a small socket (smaller then the outer race) and whacking it with a rubber mallet.
 
I'm going to take the bearings from the MEGA motor mount, and separate them to get the inner race freed up. New slipper assembly arrived this morning. Time to give it a shot, thanks for the info!
 
That part of the slipper hub will mushroom then crack over time so the reinforcement sleeve is needed. You can buy one or as mentioned above use the inner race from an old bearing of the same size that’s on the slipper hub. I cut the outer race with a Dremel and it comes apart easy but someone else mentioned placing the bearing on a small socket (smaller then the outer race) and whacking it with a rubber mallet.
I used the socket method, I've got some background turning wrenches, so in familiar with that. Worked great. Even found an o-ring to space the inner race to the end of the output. Ready to rock again, much appreciated!

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I used the socket method, I've got some background turning wrenches, so in familiar with that. Worked great. Even found an o-ring to space the inner race to the end of the output. Ready to rock again, much appreciated!

View attachment 233854

View attachment 233855
Hmmm…not a bad idea about the o-ring. Watch it so it doesn’t wear bad and fall apart as I’m wondering if the race will compress against it once clicked in. Think I might try that next time for grins.
 
Hmmm…not a bad idea about the o-ring. Watch it so it doesn’t wear bad and fall apart as I’m wondering if the race will compress against it once clicked in. Think I might try that next time for grins.
I'm hoping for a compression fit of the race, I expect the o-ring to fail before too long, I will be monitoring the state of things between the dif and slipper. Got a handful of o-rings still laying around if needed.
 
I'm hoping for a compression fit of the race, I expect the o-ring to fail before too long, I will be monitoring the state of things between the dif and slipper. Got a handful of o-rings still laying around if needed.
But…will it affect slipper position? Just watch it and check inside for any off wear indicating additional friction.
 
But…will it affect slipper position? Just watch it and check inside for any off wear indicating additional friction.
Charging a battery now, I'll give it a run this afternoon. I'll take before and after pictures inside the motor mount to see if its causing the slipper to rub inside the housing. I'm going to put some lithium grease on the o-ring to hopefully stop it from binding if it were to grip the output shaft and flare out.
 
Charging a battery now, I'll give it a run this afternoon. I'll take before and after pictures inside the motor mount to see if its causing the slipper to rub inside the housing. I'm going to put some lithium grease on the o-ring to hopefully stop it from binding if it were to grip the output shaft and flare out.
That will attract dirt. Best use nothing or maybe a dry silicon lube. It’ll take a few runs probably to show wear…excessive black dust is what to look for and uneven spur wear along with marks on the spur case. I’m sure it won’t be catastrophic just something to watch.

Best place for a lubed o-ring is on the motor shaft against the bearing with a washer on top. Just don’t press the pinion down on it, just lightly set. Helps keeps black plastic dust from killing the bearing. I put small circles of electrical tape on the unused motor mount holes as well. Superlube is what I like, the grease and oil. Lithium (red and white) grease gunked up on me too much.
 
That will attract dirt. Best use nothing or maybe a dry silicon lube. It’ll take a few runs probably to show wear…excessive black dust is what to look for and uneven spur wear along with marks on the spur case. I’m sure it won’t be catastrophic just something to watch.

Best place for a lubed o-ring is on the motor shaft against the bearing with a washer on top. Just don’t press the pinion down on it, just lightly set. Helps keeps black plastic dust from killing the bearing. I put small circles of electrical tape on the unused motor mount holes as well. Superlube is what I like, the grease and oil. Lithium (red and white) grease gunked up on me too much.
Didnt get any dirt to speak of in that area, but I'm running on asphalt. No signs of unusual wear in the housing. Punch setting 9 is a little overkill, FYI, having fun playing with the programmer settings. I'll continue to monitor. Pictures are post run

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20220804_151038.jpg


20220804_151118.jpg
 
Didnt get any dirt to speak of in that area, but I'm running on asphalt. No signs of unusual wear in the housing. Punch setting 9 is a little overkill, FYI, having fun playing with the programmer settings. I'll continue to monitor. Pictures are post run

View attachment 233903

View attachment 233904

View attachment 233905
Run 4-5 packs through and then check. Yeah I keep with punch 4 or 5 max for my 3s bashers. Saves the drivetrain quite a bit of excessive wear, especially the rear input gear/diff and driveshafts. I turn timing down as well, helps a bit with heat. I run mostly 130a smart escs, surpass 3665 or 3670, 3050kv motors with 16-18t pinions (budget parts lol).
 
Run 4-5 packs through and then check. Yeah I keep with punch 4 or 5 max for my 3s bashers. Saves the drivetrain quite a bit of excessive wear, especially the rear input gear/diff and driveshafts. I turn timing down as well, helps a bit with heat. I run mostly 130a smart escs, surpass 3665 or 3670, 3050kv motors with 16-18t pinions (budget parts lol).
Yeah... I need to find an intermediate motor, I can run my 3200v firma on 4s, it's stupid fast and gets hot FAST. The tall gearing (21t) with the torque of the 1900kv is too snappy it seems. I suppose I should gear down the pinion with the 1900kv for bashing. What's a good and cheap motor for speed runs that wont burn up on 4s?

I'm at the point I beleive, where I should get an all road model and keep the Typhon setup for bashing. What all road model would you recommend for a beginner who wants a platform with wide open possibilities for modifications?
 
Yeah... I need to find an intermediate motor, I can run my 3200v firma on 4s, it's stupid fast and gets hot FAST. The tall gearing (21t) with the torque of the 1900kv is too snappy it seems. I suppose I should gear down the pinion with the 1900kv for bashing. What's a good and cheap motor for speed runs that wont burn up on 4s?

I'm at the point I beleive, where I should get an all road model and keep the Typhon setup for bashing. What all road model would you recommend for a beginner who wants a platform with wide open possibilities for modifications?
I’ve had great luck with surpass motors. Cheap and reliable so far. I recently picked up a surpass 4068, 2650kv to eventually try out 4s in a 3s road car (mini infraction or typhon not sure yet) with a mm2 esc.

I don’t run my 3s bashers on 4s. They are plenty powerful for me and I prefer dependability over crazy power with the 3s cars. I had fun with them the first year but it got old, all the constant repairs and parts expense. I picked up a noto and Kraton early this year that I run on 4s and sometimes 6s if I want more.
 
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