Outcast Melted drive shaft V2 Outcast 4s

[Lucy]

La mia opinione è che l'unico problema era il perno dell'albero di trasmissione che usciva, cosa che hanno affrontato.

È un telaio debole? Sta all'utente decidere, credo. Se hai intenzione di lanciare il rig a oltre 20 piedi in aria, allora sì, al telaio non piace. Affermare i mancati significherebbe dire che stanno affermando che puoi saltare il camion a oltre 20 piedi di altezza e non avere problemi. Non ho visto nulla da Arrma dicendo che questo è ciò per cui l'hanno progettato.

Troppo stretto è un problema. Troppo sciolto è un problema. Devi averlo impostato come progettato e funzionerà perfettamente.

Is it explained well in the manual or will I have to ask for help to understand if the clutch is properly adjusted? ps. the car already arrives with the differentials full of silicone oil or are they empty like on the kyosho rtr? ah no, there are also two satellites missing

 

[SrC]

A very loose slipper clutch generates tremendous amounts of heat. Melting plastics easily.
Make sure the slipper is set properly. Check and clean out regularly. Related BB's and all.

 

[HZRDOS]

Is it explained well in the manual or will I have to ask for help to understand if the clutch is properly adjusted? ps. the car already arrives with the differentials full of silicone oil or are they empty like on the kyosho rtr? ah no, there are also two satellites missing

Car comes with fluid in the diffs, BUT - best to check the levels before running.

Manual explains how to set the clutch.

 

[SrC]

Best to ALWAYS check the diffs for oil level. 95% of all my Arrma diffs were low out the box. It is a thing to go over the diffs. Or you will brick the diffs sooner than later, not knowing low diff oil is a thing, with your very first Arrma rig. These are not really RTR kits. Unfortunately they need TLC right out the box.

 

[Lucy]

I noticed that there are no RPM upgrades like Traxxas, strange, is it a lack or just not needed? For the most resistant monster bashing on the market, the Associated MT10, there are the arms which in fact are its weak point

 

[dfuller]

I had that exact thing happen to my 3S Granite. Turned out the slipper had loosened up and the friction of the plates slipping heated the area up. Melted just like yours. I rebuilt my slipper (it was melted too) and haven’t had issues since. It’s worth noting that from the factory, my Granite did not have the tensioning spring or the bearing/race assembly installed in my slipper. Maybe check that yours does and that it’s adjusted correctly.

 

[Mit Snori]

Got through two driveshafts in 2 bash sessions. Just thrown the short piece from out of the metal 3S eBay driveshafts in. So I’ve now got front composite - back metal.

Gap between drive shaft and motor heat sink seams thinner than on my 3S models. Gravel destroys it once jammed in. Motor gets very very hot; very very quickly. Tightened slipper right up. Backed off 1/2 turn. Ordered twin fans and smaller heat sink to improve clearance.

 

[Velodromed]

Got through two driveshafts in 2 bash sessions. Just thrown the short piece from out of the metal 3S eBay driveshafts in. So I’ve now got front composite - back metal.

Gap between drive shaft and motor heat sink seams thinner than on my 3S models. Gravel destroys it once jammed in. Motor gets very very hot; very very quickly. Tightened slipper right up. Backed off 1/2 turn. Ordered twin fans and smaller heat sink to improve clearance.

Do you run rock guards to protect the CVDs? I don’t run heat sinks, I like the powerhobby mounts with the fan blowing directly on the motor can, so I’m not sure about what you meant by the gap being smaller. Can you post some pictures? Also, curious about the repair that you did using the short driveshaft?

 

[Mit Snori]

Do you run rock guards to protect the CVDs? I don’t run heat sinks, I like the powerhobby mounts with the fan blowing directly on the motor can, so I’m not sure about what you meant by the gap being smaller. Can you post some pictures? Also, curious about the repair that you did using the short driveshaft?

Hi dude. Thanks for responding. No mudguards. I am talking centre driveshaft here. I’ve put a metal drive shaft piece from a SWB Vortek into the outcast v2 to replace the two composite ones that have been carved in two. Also the heat generated either from the carving or the motor in general is melting the composite shaft onto the small red slipper drive shaft interface. The gap between the motor and shaft is millimetres - the new straps with integrated cable holders don’t help. I think they trap grit and crap. Also the motor gets very very hot.

 

[Vulthraxis]

For what its worth I found these don't know how well they will hold up but its not plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Driveshaft-G...ix=kraton+4s+drive+,toys-and-games,152&sr=1-8

 

[Velodromed]

Hi dude. Thanks for responding. No mudguards. I am talking centre driveshaft here. I’ve put a metal drive shaft piece from a SWB Vortek into the outcast v2 to replace the two composite ones that have been carved in two. Also the heat generated either from the carving or the motor in general is melting the composite shaft onto the small red slipper drive shaft interface. The gap between the motor and shaft is millimetres - the new straps with integrated cable holders don’t help. I think they trap grit and crap. Also the motor gets very very hot.

I understand now. I’ve never had that issue with my 3 and 4s cars. I’ve been running plastic driveshafts in all of them well over two years without issue. I live in the very rocky and hot south central Texas area and, by habit, every 5-8 min or so Ill hold the car upside down, shake and tilt to get rocks and crud out. I also listen for any odd sounds and immediately check.

As for motor heat, that’s normal. Unless it’s exceeding 150f you’re fine. A cheap temp gun helps keep an eye on it. If it becomes an issue, better fans will help. 40x40x28 AVAC server fans are my favorite for my 4 and 6s cars. In my 3s cars I use double rocket fans because they fit better. It’s also a good idea to let the car rest a bit every 8 to 10 minutes or so, body off and fans on, if it’s over 90°f.

 

[Mit Snori]

For what its worth I found these don't know how well they will hold up but its not plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Driveshaft-Granite-Vorteks-Vendetta-Infraction/dp/B09VH2ZQJD/ref=sr_1_8?crid=P0HW92E7W63Y&keywords=kraton+4s+drive+shaft&qid=1677614808&s=toys-and-games&sprefix=kraton+4s+drive+,toys-and-games,152&sr=1-8

Yes - they are what I used previously in my Vorteks - and now into the Outcast. It has some battle scars but they obviously resist stones a lot better than plastics.

I understand now. I’ve never had that issue with my 3 and 4s cars. I’ve been running plastic driveshafts in all of them well over two years without issue. I live in the very rocky and hot south central Texas area and, by habit, every 5-8 min or so Ill hold the car upside down, shake and tilt to get rocks and crud out. I also listen for any odd sounds and immediately check.

As for motor heat, that’s normal. Unless it’s exceeding 150f you’re fine. A cheap temp gun helps keep an eye on it. If it becomes an issue, better fans will help. 40x40x28 AVAC server fans are my favorite for my 4 and 6s cars. In my 3s cars I use double rocket fans because they fit better. It’s also a good idea to let the car rest a bit every 8 to 10 minutes or so, body off and fans on, if it’s over 90°f.

Yes. It may well be an area that just doesn’t suit the vehicle. I empty the truck of gravel pretty regularly but one bit of grit and the RPM of that drive shaft means it’s an impossible task. I certainly can’t hear anything untoward. I think metal shaft - dust net and a better fan (as you recommend) along with some alloy parts around the clutch assembly to soak away some heat should do the trick… first heat sponge fitted tonight….

 

[Awilson1218]

Anyone else have this happen yet? Weird stuff for me atleast)

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Get rid of this plastic shield, I was having the same issue until I was told to pull that thing and haven't had any issues since.

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

Hi dude. Thanks for responding. No mudguards. I am talking centre driveshaft here. I’ve put a metal drive shaft piece from a SWB Vortek into the outcast v2 to replace the two composite ones that have been carved in two. Also the heat generated either from the carving or the motor in general is melting the composite shaft onto the small red slipper drive shaft interface. The gap between the motor and shaft is millimetres - the new straps with integrated cable holders don’t help. I think they trap grit and crap. Also the motor gets very very hot.

The 3d print guys have a design for a shroud that slides in over the center ds and keeps the rocks from grinding in there. I haven’t tried them, but it looks pretty good. They also have an additional front section to keep rocks from dropping in and pinning the steering horn.