Melted rear diff yoke (again..) Kraton 4s

[barjab]

What am i doing wrong? I replaced rear diff parts (lubed everything including bearings) and after something like 10 rides yoke is melted again and diff requires another repair. Slipper clutch was set 2 full turns back after tightening. Apparently never arrma again here.

 

[SrC]

A failed BB's can do this. Worn or even new ones Lubed BB, new and all.
Just happened yesterday to my rear bulkhead on my Infr. Doing only 75 mph. The Input Gear's outer Ball bearing bricked and the bulkhead sleeve melted the case. A recent rebuild at that. Maybe 3-4 packs in. These things happen.
BB's can be defective out the box. I always check them when new out the package. I get bad ones here and there and just call TRBRC where I get mine from and the owner always sends a replacement. He knows it can happen also and says to check them well out the package.
Diff BB's wear out and are just consumables. And they can wreak havoc on related parts. IMHO. Bricked BB's cause a lot of issues, yet the BB's are often overlooked as the cause.
What Lube are you using on your BB's?
Not good to mix different lubes together. Breaks down the lubricity at times if they are not compatible. Such as adding an oil to an already greased new BB. New or used BB's should be cleaned well in a solvent before adding a grease or oil. For Off road best to fill the BB with 1/3 grease. Grease usually handles higher temps/loads better.
Just my spin.

 

[barjab]

Cleaned bearing with acetone and used molibdenum grease.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Slipper is to loose.. the heat is generated from the slipping of the clutch..

 

[barjab]

Slipper is to loose.. the heat is generated from the slipping of the clutch..

Yeah first time I made it tighter (according to manual) and I stripped differ pinnion... Way to go arrma... I'm absolutely disappointed with the quality/project of this car - it is just bad/waste of money. Truth is - you ride it for a week and repair for next three every month. Not to mention I use it solely with 3s. On 4s it would and up in garage every single journey I suppose.

 

[Billy p]

What am i doing wrong? I replaced rear diff parts (lubed everything including bearings) and after something like 10 rides yoke is melted again and diff requires another repair. Slipper clutch was set 2 full turns back after tightening. Apparently never arrma again here.

I have the v3 blx granite, I was bashing it really hard and after 3 months rear diff died. I didn't buy stock, I bought hot racing aluminum one and after i have no problems with tight slipper clutch.

 

[barjab]

Yeah trying to buy HR diff yokes - impossible for now... Still 3s/4s line very poor piece of design... Literally my first and last arrma. Pitty.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Yeah first time I made it tighter (according to manual) and I stripped differ pinnion... Way to go arrma... I'm absolutely disappointed with the quality/project of this car - it is just bad/waste of money. Truth is - you ride it for a week and repair for next three every month. Not to mention I use it solely with 3s. On 4s it would and up in garage every single journey I suppose.

Unfortunately the 4s line needed experienced and well versed drivers at the helm... It's a fine line between melting clutches down and popping axles... Without proper experience in slippers it's doomed from the start..

I'd be happy to buy it from you if your done with it... If the price is right that is..

 

[barjab]

Unfortunately the 4s line needed experienced and well versed drivers at the helm... It's a fine line between melting clutches down and popping axles... Without proper experience in slippers it's doomed from the start..

I'd be happy to buy it from you if your done with it... If the price is right that is..

Bad design is still bad desing. Pinion bearing is just too small, too poor quality and too close to clutch (clutch is another story here) - that is whole mistery. Only thing I imagine I could do is to tear it apart every ride/clean/lube - that is not the way it should be. I don't mind broken plastics or other so called "usable parts". Still differential should not be one of them. Whats more - as I said before - I only use it with 3s lipo so not even close to full potential.

If You are so smart and experienced write here what to do to maintain it well instead of boasting.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Maintaining and setup are two different things.. you either have a feel and ear for slippers or you don't.. it's not something that can be taught through a keyboard, but rather hands on and hearing what's happening and why...

I've never popped an axle or melted down a rear section on either my 4s Kraton or outcast.. outcast has well over 80 packs through it just for reference.. I was simply stating these 4s rigs are a hassle for any kind of new comer to it's platform...

And this I'll never understand, every time someone says they hate their 4s rig I offer to buy it.. and they get offended and return a snide comment.. I was just offering you a way out of it.. sheesh ...

 

[Pat_ranch]

Maintaining and setup are two different things.. you either have a feel and ear for slippers or you don't.. it's not something that can be taught through a keyboard, but rather hands on and hearing what's happening and why...

I've never popped an axle or melted down a rear section on either my 4s Kraton or outcast.. outcast has well over 80 packs through it just for reference.. I was simply stating these 4s rigs are a hassle for any kind of new comer to it's platform...

And this I'll never understand, every time someone says they hate their 4s rig I offer to buy it.. and they get offended and return a snide comment.. I was just offering you a way out of it.. sheesh ...

Like he said ^

Slipper tuning is a skill, and there's a balance to be found with diff shims, yoke, driveshafts, tires, etc. I haven't actually had to put the metal diff in yet- just the yoke so far, and I've rebuilt slippers a few times, and played around with shims. I thought I found a good balance, then started shredding drive shafts (backflip lp's and big sends were involved). So I got the steel cvd sliders. It's due for bearings soon. I'll likely swap out for a fresh slipper then and add the metal diff. All in all, though, my 4s kraton has still seen more packs than any of my other rigs. I'm really looking forward to seeing what aarma's doing with the 4s line this year.

Not trying to be too blunt here, but if you're destroying your 4s habitually, you need to refine your driving skills a bit.

 

[barjab]

Maintaining and setup are two different things.. you either have a feel and ear for slippers or you don't.. it's not something that can be taught through a keyboard, but rather hands on and hearing what's happening and why...

I've never popped an axle or melted down a rear section on either my 4s Kraton or outcast.. outcast has well over 80 packs through it just for reference.. I was simply stating these 4s rigs are a hassle for any kind of new comer to it's platform...

And this I'll never understand, every time someone says they hate their 4s rig I offer to buy it.. and they get offended and return a snide comment.. I was just offering you a way out of it.. sheesh ...

You said absolutely nothing helpful apart from calling yoursef "experienced". Sometimes it's better to stay silent. Have that in mind. Then people wouldn't get offended. Not to mention that the "setup" should be done by "manufacturer" not the buyer.

Slipper tuning is a skill, and there's a balance to be found with diff shims, yoke, driveshafts, tires, etc. I haven't actually had to put the metal diff in yet- just the yoke so far, and I've rebuilt slippers a few times, and played around with shims. I thought I found a good balance, then started shredding drive shafts (backflip lp's and big sends were involved). So I got the steel cvd sliders. It's due for bearings soon. I'll likely swap out for a fresh slipper then and add the metal diff. All in all, though, my 4s kraton has still seen more packs than any of my other rigs. I'm really looking forward to seeing what aarma's doing with the 4s line this year.

Not trying to be too blunt here, but if you're destroying your 4s habitually, you need to refine your driving skills a bit.

Ty. After first failure I try to avoid punching full throttle and try to stay out of hard surfaces (I mostly run on grass & sand) also rarely trying to do tight turns involving breaking. Though I still bash. Any advice here?

 

[stiles]

You said absolutely nothing helpful apart from calling yoursef "experienced". Sometimes it's better to stay silent. Have that in mind. Then people wouldn't get offended. Not to mention that the "setup" should be done by "manufacturer" not the buyer.

Ty. After first failure I try to avoid punching full throttle and try to stay out of hard surfaces (I mostly run on grass & sand) also rarely trying to do tight turns involving breaking. Though I still bash. Any advice here?

If you think it will be set up perfect from the factory every time then you are going to break stuff. If you scroll through the forums you will find tons of threads about problems straight out of the box. It’s always best to learn how your rig works and preform routine maintenance. The rc hobby is a hard one and the roads are paved with broken parts

 

[Camaroboy383]

You said absolutely nothing helpful apart from calling yoursef "experienced". Sometimes it's better to stay silent. Have that in mind. Then people wouldn't get offended. Not to mention that the "setup" should be done by "manufacturer" not the buyer.

Ty. After first failure I try to avoid punching full throttle and try to stay out of hard surfaces (I mostly run on grass & sand) also rarely trying to do tight turns involving breaking. Though I still bash. Any advice here?

That's where you are wrong.. I was plenty helpful telling you it can't be taught through a keyboard.. and it's best to sell it before you piss money away needlessly...

And your right.. I'll surely stay silent from here on out when you need help cause an attitude like yours isn't worth my time...

 

[slick2500]

I'm going to be that guy, 9 times out of 10 diff failures are user error. If it is melting something is either binding, assembled incorrectly or as mentioned above you have bad ball bearings. My 3s would still be on the same diffs after over 2 years of abuse if I wouldn't have broken my chassis right under the rear diff, see user error, I crashed I broke it and I damaged the rear diff in the process. Nothing else caused it to fail other than my own user error.