Might try ways to bind without removing receiver box cover

[crunchtime]

See any reasons why these two methods (described below) can't work?

Quickly realizing a downside to moving multiple rigs onto a DX5. Sometimes my kid and I or his friends bash / race at the same time, and take turns on who runs what.

Since one receiver can't be bound to two transmitters, and it takes some of the fun out of it to have to take the time to remove the lid off the receiver box each time you want to bind....

On the outcast 6s, maybe try a pin hole in the lid of the receiver box to access the spektrum logo push-button thing. Could probably put a little piece of electrical tape over the hole to keep the moisture out.

On the Vorteks, the receiver is harder to reach. So maybe connect a bind plug and just permanently run two wires to outside of the box, where I can make or break the connection. For the outcast 6s, it could also use a bind plug instead of the push button, right? If so, then maybe don't do the pinhole on the outcast and instead do the two wire thing.

Won't be able to see the LED during binding, but I could live with that.

Thoughts ?

 

[AIan]

I haven’t had to bing anything before, cause I use a different controller, but could you run a jst connector from the bind port to the outside of the box as an extension plug kinda thing?

Edit:
— I’m sry I thought you needed a bind plug, I see it’s a pin hole now, I’d say a small hole would be ok. I’d buy an extra body clip retainer and make the hole the size of the little rubber plug so you can make it water resistant after

 

[crunchtime]

@Alan Thanks for the info. My first post was too long / nobody will have time to read it all. For the vorteks, where the receiver box is buried I was indeed proposing the bind plug with extended wires. For receivers that have the push button, I wonder if they even support a bind plug?

About seeing the LED, a translucent box cover would be nice.

 

[AIan]

cool I don’t know enough about binding to help with specifics but I’ve used other little rubber plugs to waterproof other holes in my receiver box when trying to put a hole for my radiolink receivers little button to turn the gyro on n off, but I couldn’t get it to line up right, cause the button is very hard to reach holding the receiver in hand, no matter not seeing it

 

[slick2500]

See any reasons why these two methods (described below) can't work?

Quickly realizing a downside to moving multiple rigs onto a DX5. Sometimes my kid and I or his friends bash / race at the same time, and take turns on who runs what.

Since one receiver can't be bound to two transmitters, and it takes some of the fun out of it to have to take the time to remove the lid off the receiver box each time you want to bind....

On the outcast 6s, maybe try a pin hole in the lid of the receiver box to access the spektrum logo push-button thing. Could probably put a little piece of electrical tape over the hole to keep the moisture out.

On the Vorteks, the receiver is harder to reach. So maybe connect a bind plug and just permanently run two wires to outside of the box, where I can make or break the connection. For the outcast 6s, it could also use a bind plug instead of the push button, right? If so, then maybe don't do the pinhole on the outcast and instead do the two wire thing.

Won't be able to see the LED during binding, but I could live with that.

Thoughts ?

Idk if there really is an easy way to do that. The receivers that have a bind button do not have a bind port if my memory serves me correctly.

 

[AIan]

You could always invest in a multi rig radio system or 2 and run 1/2 of your rigs on one and 1/2 on the other. I run 4rc cars and a boat all on one transmitter, with a different receiver in each rig. Then like on my radiolink I just select which rig I wanna run radiolink rc6gs is a great system for under $100 like $75-$85 usually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPNNTWT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[crunchtime]

Idk if there really is an easy way to do that. The receivers that have a bind button do not have a bind port if my memory serves me correctly.

Looks like you're right. I finally got just a little less lazy and looked at the manuals for the SR6200A and SR6110AT , and they state there is no bind plug. Buggers..... I might take a closer look at the Vorteks to see if there is some angle where I could access the push button through a pin hole, but I highly doubt it.

You could always invest in a multi rig radio system or 2 and run 1/2 of your rigs on one and 1/2 on the other. I run 4rc cars and a boat all on one transmitter, with a different receiver in each rig. Then like on my radiolink I just select which rig I wanna run radiolink rc6gs is a great system for under $100 like $75-$85 usually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPNNTWT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

View attachment 242201

Thanks for the info.. I recently got the DX5 pro when it was on sale a few weeks back, just now really starting to use it. I like it a lot, and like how now I get the total battery voltage for my non-Spektrum batteries (through the FIRMA ESC). I feel like I've gone so far down the spektrum path (started a long time ago with planes) that I'm not sure I want to make a change. Maybe if I was starting over. But I'm not really knocking spektrum stuff the way many people do, it's been pretty good for me (knock on fake wood).

I might keep an eye out for used DX5 of the cheapest kind I can find. Meanwhile, this is not the most serious problem in the world

 

[crunchtime]

cool I don’t know enough about binding to help with specifics but I’ve used other little rubber plugs to waterproof other holes in my receiver box when trying to put a hole for my radiolink receivers little button to turn the gyro on n off, but I couldn’t get it to line up right, cause the button is very hard to reach holding the receiver in hand, no matter not seeing it

On the Vorteks I just removed the ESC and receiver box cover. I think I might be back in business. The push button happens to be at one of the few areas where I have a shot at putting a whole into the cover at a slight angle from the button. I think the key will be the rubber plug idea that you mentioned, because I think the opening will need to be large enough to get a really thin screwdriver or something kind of strong like that to push the button. The paperclip idea I think won't fly, not strong enough. The button area is pretty large, so hitting the target might not be so terrible after the first couple of attempts.

If things work out I'll let you know (might be several days before I can start making the mods). I'm feeling cautiously optimistic.

Good news on the Vendetta is that it's like the Outcast 6s. Long enough that they didn't stack the ESC on top of the receiver box.

 

[crunchtime]

Yeah, I can hear the button clicking. A long 2mm hex wrench seems to be a good fit. I had to move the wires around inside the box, because some where in the way. Now just need to plug the hole. Thanks all, for the help !

 

[AIan]

You might be able to put a screw in the hole

 

[crunchtime]

You might be able to put a screw in the hole

Doh! That seems like such a perfect and obvious solution. Thank you! I'm wondering if it would vibrate out. I'll try it and see. Easy to check each time I put in a battery. Oh and maybe a rubber gasket under the screw head.

 

[AIan]

It might eventually, but little screws are usually everywhere around my building area I’ve found, especially at night when walking around barefoot ouch

 

[morrjr71]

Good news on the Vendetta is that it's like the Outcast 6s. Long enough that they didn't stack the ESC on top of the receiver box.

When the ESC is mounted on the chassis, you need to move it every time you need to remove the power module. I have the Infraction 3s (same chassis as the Vendetta), and I moved the ESC to the top of the receiver box for ease of maintenance.

 

[crunchtime]

I am a binding machine. I've put the hole into the Vorteks, Vendetta and Outcast receiver box lids. Now I'm swapping transmitters around when I don't even need to, just because I can.... I can see the receiver LED through the hole if viewing from the correct angle. Now the DX5 Pro is a total win again. Setting the expo for the Vendetta was really easy, and love having the separate AVC control.

About using a screw to plug the hole, I'm thinking of getting those nylon screws, because I think if the screw is lighter weight it is less likely to vibrate out since lower mass, and I've seen nylon screws with the rubber washers before at the hardware store.

When the ESC is mounted on the chassis, you need to move it every time you need to remove the power module. I have the Infraction 3s (same chassis as the Vendetta), and I moved the ESC to the top of the receiver box for ease of maintenance.

That's a good point. Right now the holes I put into Vendetta and Outcast would probably get covered if I moved the ESC on top of the receiver box. But I think I could pick a new hole location if I ever moved the ESC on top, and will just need put the hex driver at an angle (like I did with the Vorteks).

 

[morrjr71]

That's a good point. Right now the holes I put into Vendetta and Outcast would probably get covered if I moved the ESC on top of the receiver box. But I think I could pick a new hole location if I ever moved the ESC on top, and will just need put the hex driver at an angle (like I did with the Vorteks).

Depending on the receiver, it might just be something as simple as moving the receiver inside the receiver box so the binding button would line up better with the area of the lid you want to drill a hole in.

 

[crunchtime]

Depending on the receiver, it might just be something as simple as moving the receiver inside the receiver box so the binding button would line up better with the area of the lid you want to drill a hole in.

That's true. In the case of the Vorteks I got kind of lucky and the receiver was already in a spot that was about as good as it was going to get.

If anyone else decides to do this as well, here is something to be aware of. Even though the push button area is pretty large, one end of the button is much easier to push than the other. It's as if it's kind of hinged on one end (even though I doubt it actually is). I'm happy with the outcome.

 

[Smilinbri]

I am a binding machine. I've put the hole into the Vorteks, Vendetta and Outcast receiver box lids. Now I'm swapping transmitters around when I don't even need to, just because I can....

LMAO!!

That is genius!! I'm gonna try that with my Radiolink recievers! Thanks for being the guinea pig!!

 

[AIan]

That is genius!! I'm gonna try that with my Radiolink recievers! Thanks for being the guinea pig!!

The radiolink receiver box buttons are notoriously hard to press, I tried to do something similar to hit the gyro on off through a little hole, but it ended in failure since the car had to be flat and still when turning the gyro on. It seemed to not bode well when it was flying through the air after several frustrating mins trying to hit the little tiny button

 

[crunchtime]

That is genius!!

I tried to enter 100 Likes, but it only let me keep one.

The radiolink receiver box buttons are notoriously hard to press, I tried to do something similar to hit the gyro on off through a little hole, but it ended in failure since the car had to be flat and still when turning the gyro on. It seemed to not bode well when it was flying through the air after several frustrating mins trying to hit the little tiny button

Probably doesn't apply to the radiolink receivers, and if it did you would have already noticed.... but on the Spektrum receivers it seems like the push button is hinged on one side. If you try to push near the end with the hinge, where you have no leverage, it's really difficult. At the other end it's really easy.


By the way, I'm in the process of trying to 100% confirm that a bind plug can't work on the spektrum receivers with the push button. The manual for the receivers say they won't use a bind plug, but I want to be sure. (no ports labeled bind) Even if it could, I think now I prefer using the hole.

 

[slick2500]

The radiolink receiver box buttons are notoriously hard to press, I tried to do something similar to hit the gyro on off through a little hole, but it ended in failure since the car had to be flat and still when turning the gyro on. It seemed to not bode well when it was flying through the air after several frustrating mins trying to hit the little tiny button

Wait there is a button on the receiver to enable the gyro? That explains why I couldn't get mine to work.