MMX8S esc over heating

[Bullet]

I’ve got an infraction v2 with a castle creations MMX8S esc w/ 1650kv motor. I’ve got the limitless spool running 30pinion/ 34spur with Lectron pro 3S 7600mah 75c batteries qty 2 for 6S. The motor and esc get hot quickly after a few speed runs and shut down due to over heating. When I pull the esc log on the castle software it comes with error of over current detected at the top. I looked at the current on the graph and the max current on a speed run was 365amps.
I understand the high current generates heat, but my calculations must be off when I looked at what the batteries would put max.
Any ideas folks?

 

[SrC]

Lipos not the issue. How are you driving your Infr? Letting it cool down between passes? 30/34 will require that. I run a HW XR8 but my kv 's are at 2250.
( 28/34) I def run hot for this reason. Running sensored are you? The MMX8S generally runs cool from what many say. And since you are only running 6s there should be plenty of ESC overhead and efficiency with it.
ESC takes what it wants from the Lipo if it can provide it. Not the other way around. So Thermals are not lipo related IMHO.
Were the Lipos warm/Hot?
What were your temps at the motor? Using a temp gun?
Outside ambients?
Seems like it should not be running all that hot. Is this all of a sudden?
Or has it always been this way?
Drop a few teeth down on the pinion if you have one. Test it from there. One option.
Maybe others will chime with better ideas on this.

Welcome to AF.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Lipos not the issue. How are you driving your Infr? Letting it cool down between passes? 30/34 will require that. I run a HW XR8 but my kv 's are at 2250.
( 28/34) I def run hot for this reason. Running sensored are you? The MMX8S generally runs cool from what many say. And since you are only running 6s there should be plenty of ESC overhead and efficiency with it.
ESC takes what it wants from the Lipo if it can provide it. Not the other way around. So Thermals are not lipo related IMHO.
Were the Lipos warm/Hot?
What were your temps at the motor? Using a temp gun?
Outside ambients?
Seems like it should not be running all that hot. Is this all of a sudden?
Or has it always been this way?
Drop a few teeth down on the pinion if you have one. Test it from there. One option.
Maybe others will chime with better ideas on this.

Welcome to AF.

They next time you say chime in im gonna loose it, every damn post!!!

 

[Bullet]

Lipos not the issue. How are you driving your Infr? Letting it cool down between passes? 30/34 will require that. I run a HW XR8 but my kv 's are at 2250. I def run hot for this reason. Running sensored are you? The MMX8s generally runs cool. And since you are only running 6s there should be plenty of ESC overhead and efficiency with it.
ESC takes what it wants from the Lipo if it can provide it. Not the other way around. So Thermals are not lipo related IMHO.
Were the Lipos warm/Hot?
What were you temps at the motor?
Outside ambients?
Seems like it should not be running hot. Is this all of a sudden. Or has it always been this way.
Maybe others will chime with better ideason this.

I didn’t let it cool down between passes, because I thought it could handle it on with that gearing.
I’m running sensored.
The lipos were warm to the touch.
The ambient outside temp was 98 in Texas.
The motor temp was 136 and esc 176.
I‘ve done this twice and the same issue both times.
The esc does have the updated software.

 

[SrC]

Yeah 98F ambients may be the major part of the problem. Warm lipos are ok.
Is your ESC fan throttling properly? ( like full On when it needs to) It's supposed to throttle on and off as needed.
I would absolutely allow a cool down between each pass.
Alternatively, drop 2 teeth down on the pinion.
Hopefully others will chime in with that specific ESC.
I am sure someone here will ask you to post your Data logs.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Maybe my calculations are wrong but im getting 570 off those lipos??
Thats not even calculating burst

 

[Edough13]

Back to back passes and gearing is your issue. Speed runs should be done one maybe two passes then need to let everything cool back to ambient temps or your just going to fry your setup.

 

[Bullet]

ESC fans does engage full on when needed.
If I drop two teeth on pinion it will not be able to mesh with the 34t spur.
I‘ve ran my slash that has. MMX6S 2200kv motor on 6S in hotter temps and it ran fine staying cool around 100 on motor and esc 115. It’s been cooler, so I didn’t think it would be a factor for the infraction.

I calculated the same amperage Sento-Prime.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Yea disregard my reply cuz the c rating is an unknown.. So those calculations are misconstrued
Yo @Edough13 .. You think it has anything to do with ec5's!?

 

[Bullet]

Back to back passes and gearing is your issue. Speed runs should be done one maybe two passes then need to let everything cool back to ambient temps or your just going to fry your setup.

I understand what your saying. I thought doing a few passes would be ok, but obviously not.
The castle software data logger says I’m pulling to many amps at 365 amps I’m a pass. How is this so?

I‘m not trying to fry the esc, but am trying to resolve my issue of the esc drawing to much current and over heating.

Yea disregard my reply cuz the c rating is an unknown.. So those calculations are misconstrued
Yo @Edough13 .. You think it has anything to do with ec5's!?

I’m running Protek QS8 connectors. The wires aren’t getting hot after a run, so I think the 10awg oem wire is ok.
This is the battery I’m using.

https://www.commonsenserc.com/product_info.php?cPath=213&products_id=6567

 

[Edough13]

I understand what your saying. I thought doing a few passes would be ok, but obviously not.
The castle software data logger says I’m pulling to many amps at 365 amps I’m a pass. How is this so?

I‘m not trying to fry the esc, but am trying to resolve my issue of the esc drawing to much current and over heating.

I’m running Protek QS8 connectors. The wires aren’t getting hot after a run, so I think the 10awg oem wire is ok.

So you can get high amp draw a couple ways, one being over geared and asking too much from your system and the other being a hard throttle pull if you don't run perfect pass or a throttle speed feature to smooth out your trigger pull. When you smash the trigger amps spike as the system is then asking for a ton of power. Same thing with being over geared the system is having to work harder so you'll pull higher amps. Also any motor mount you run will go down to 27/34 on gearing so you'd be fine dropping to a 28t and still get good mesh. I'd suggest dropping to a 28t pinion and work on a smooth even throttle pull especially from 80-100% to keep amperage down. Also some better packs will help also but I'd start with dropping the pinion and really working on a longer even pull can't just yank to full throttle or you'll have 350+ Amps every pull. Here's my last log from a 144mph 8s pass using perfect pass and CNHL packs you can see I'm not even pulling the amps you are and I'm running 1:1 gearing and 8s but it's hugely influenced by the linear even pull and good lipos a lot.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Nice @Edough13 .. Maybe @SrC can "chime in" with some knowledge!!

 

[Edough13]

Just another example on my 4s/6s setup on a 104mph pass I pulled 350A as I'm geared too high and asking too much from the single 5000mAh lipo. Even though I'm running perfect pass and getting a perfect even linear pull it's the fact I'm asking too much from the system in gearing and the fact the lipo doesn't have the power and voltage needed.

 

[SrC]

Maybe he is amp cutting, not thermal cutting? Not sure.

But in any event yes, he should drop down to 28T. Will fit. I run 28/34 in my Lim. Still too tall for my motor. (2250kv) 28 will mesh just fine and better than the stock 27T, which barely meshes nicely, how I want. Mount bottoms out and the mesh is what it is. Looser than I care for.

@Bullet, if you can screen shot the data logs here, it will give a better picture.

They next time you say chime in im gonna loose it, every damn post!!!

There are many guys here better than I. Sorry. It is annoying I guess.

 

[Bullet]

So you can get high amp draw a couple ways, one being over geared and asking too much from your system and the other being a hard throttle pull if you don't run perfect pass or a throttle speed feature to smooth out your trigger pull. When you smash the trigger amps spike as the system is then asking for a ton of power. Same thing with being over geared the system is having to work harder so you'll pull higher amps. Also any motor mount you run will go down to 27/34 on gearing so you'd be fine dropping to a 28t and still get good mesh. I'd suggest dropping to a 28t pinion and work on a smooth even throttle pull especially from 80-100% to keep amperage down. Also some better packs will help also but I'd start with dropping the pinion and really working on a longer even pull can't just yank to full throttle or you'll have 350+ Amps every pull. Here's my last log from a 144mph 8s pass using perfect pass and CNHL packs you can see I'm not even pulling the amps you are and I'm running 1:1 gearing and 8s but it's hugely influenced by the linear even pull and good lipos a lot.View attachment 169014

I’ll drop to a 28t and try that. When I do a speed run I gradually get into the throttle until the throttle is at its max. I don’t yank on the throttle at any point during a run. I know the lipos aren’t anything compared to the CNHL ones I keep seeing, but they had high reviews from fellow racers. When they ran out I was going to get something from the CNHL line. Looks like I might need to do it sooner.
I’m trying to see if I can get this truck to 125mph and then regear it to be a fast basher like my slash 4x4 w/ MMX6S 2200kv setup. I‘ll do a run and pull the logs to show you what I have. Thanks for the advice

Maybe he is amp cutting, not thermal cutting? Not sure.

But in any event yes, he should drop down to 28T. Will fit. I run 28/34 in my Lim. Still too tall for my motor. (2250kv) 28 will mesh just fine and better than the stock 27T, which barely meshes nicely, how I want. Mount bottoms out and the mesh is what it is. Looser than I care for.

@Bullet, if you can screen shot the data logs here, it will give a better picture.

There are many guys here better than I. Sorry. It is annoying I guess.

When I said the 28t wouldn’t fit I was thinking of the stock speed gear 25t. I’ll try a 28t.
Can anyone suggest a good battery? I’m not to familiar with a good CNHL battery? I know about gensacearespammers basher and
redline batteries and how good they are.

 

[Edough13]

I’ll drop to a 28t and try that. When I do a speed run I gradually get into the throttle until the throttle is at its max. I don’t yank on the throttle at any point during a run. I know the lipos aren’t anything compared to the CNHL ones I keep seeing, but they had high reviews from fellow racers. When they ran out I was going to get something from the CNHL line. Looks like I might need to do it sooner.
I’m trying to see if I can get this truck to 125mph and then regear it to be a fast basher like my slash 4x4 w/ MMX6S 2200kv setup. I‘ll do a run and pull the logs to show you what I have. Thanks for the advice

When I said the 28t wouldn’t fit I was thinking of the stock speed gear 25t. I’ll try a 28t.
Can anyone suggest a good battery? I’m not to familiar with a good CNHL battery? I know about gensacearespammers basher and redline batteries and how good they are.

I'd suggest the G+ 70c packs first they are their best lipo and second would be the Racing Series 90c packs. Definitely suggest the 6000mAh for the G+ 70c and I'd go with the 6200mAh or up 90c Racing Series.
G+ 70c https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/det...+plus6000mah22.2v6s70clipobatterywithxt90plug
RS 90c https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/det...n】CNHL6200MAH22.2V6S90CLIPOBATTERYWithEC5Plug

 

[SrC]

Cnhl seems to be the hot ticket these days.

 

[Bullet]

I'd suggest the G+ 70c packs first they are their best lipo and second would be the Racing Series 90c packs. Definitely suggest the 6000mAh for the G+ 70c and I'd go with the 6200mAh or up 90c Racing Series.
G+ 70c https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/Battery-6S(22.2V)/【speedrun】cnhlg+plus6000mah22.2v6s70clipobatterywithxt90plug
RS 90c https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/Battery-6S(22.2V)/【Speedrun】CNHL6200MAH22.2V6S90CLIPOBATTERYWithEC5Plug

Thank you for the suggestion. For balance what do you think of running 2 3S versions of that 70C battery?

 

[Edough13]

Thank you for the suggestion. For balance what do you think of running 2 3S versions of that 70C battery?

You could but I figure more connections is more resistance but until your going for big numbers above say 150 it's not going to make a huge difference. But definitely suggest the G+ 70c packs they are the top performers for CNHL

 

[SrC]

I’ll drop to a 28t and try that. When I do a speed run I gradually get into the throttle until the throttle is at its max. I don’t yank on the throttle at any point during a run. I know the lipos aren’t anything compared to the CNHL ones I keep seeing, but they had high reviews from fellow racers. When they ran out I was going to get something from the CNHL line. Looks like I might need to do it sooner.
I’m trying to see if I can get this truck to 125mph and then regear it to be a fast basher like my slash 4x4 w/ MMX6S 2200kv setup. I‘ll do a run and pull the logs to show you what I have. Thanks for the advice

When I said the 28t wouldn’t fit I was thinking of the stock speed gear 25t. I’ll try a 28t.
Can anyone suggest a good battery? I’m not to familiar with a good CNHL battery? I know about gensacearespammers basher and
redline batteries and how good they are.

Yeah I have the LIM( with spool stock 34 and 27 pin ) You have the Infr. converted over. I went with a Tekno 28 pinion.