Kraton Modification of the weekend.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mad Max basher look is always good with these style of rigs dpricenator. Hydro diamond plate would be very neat.....I would love that.

I have the Bell Cranks going in now, then maybe next week is go time with a Nero Big Rock and my Kraton. The Nero came with a wheel that has something wrong with it...once that is fixed, it will be good. He can probably use a set of my other tires for now. IDK if they fit yet. We shall see.

IMG_0649.JPG
Testing out the Nero Big Rock today.... going over everything. It's heavy but it's a work of art. Not really something I would want but I like it. It's extremely quiet compared to the Kraton.
 
Last edited:
Just an update on some recent modifications. 2 changes were made to my Kraton and I recently noticed I was getting some high temps while bashing hard off-road. Previously, before these 2 changes, I was running fine on temps. My 2 changes are a new battery and connectors and the HR motor mount. After inspecting the connectors, I don't see any issues there. They all read no resistance through them, the solder looks perfect the battery looks fine. Now.... the HR mount looks perfect, feels perfect but is it ? I really don't know what happens under an extreme load with that mount. I'm going after it first. I'll remove it, swap in the old mount and see if the temps go back to where they were. I'm wondering if it's causing some gear mesh issues under a load ???? It may actually not be strong enough and might be twisting and causing the mesh to get tight and even angled. It's hard to tell but something happened and that was one of the changes. If this is the cause... it just goes to show you how sensitive the motors are to resistance. Another thing... it doesn't take much to start ripping up the HR aluminum diff case. I think acorns did that.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0692.JPG
    IMG_0692.JPG
    208.7 KB · Views: 87
Last edited:
Yeah my HR diff case has no black left on the "top side" meaning the flat part, that actually sits on the side. Lost it all when the diff mount bearing blew up. Was really worried I just ruined a brand new part. Good news is that is still works just fine.
 
Update on sudden heat issues.... i swapped motor mounts and retested. It wasn't that... next step is to remove the Castle connectors and solder XT90's back on. I had to order a bunch of fresh ones. I'll also check the motor connectors. Then retest. Having abnormal heat issues.
 
Anyone know of a place to find a smaller spur gear for my Raider Mega? 81t 48p stock
 
YAY!!!!!!

I got my GKA servo Mount today!

Only took 2 months to show up. Of course that was not the fault of GKA or it's representatives. I think Customs had it for a bit, then it would leave Chicago and be in route to California. 4 or 5 days later it would be back in Chicago, then in route to California. Then it would happen again, and again. When I contacted GKA, Greg immediately got on the phone with the USPS, and opened an investigation. I guess they found the package and sent it back to Canada. GReg Contacted me as soon as he had it and said he was sending it FED EX this time, and from now on , for all parts sent to the US.

Anyway, it sure does look pretty.:)
 
I hear GKA are making aluminum diff boxes. $100 dollars a piece.

How's everyone doing ??? We had some nice weather here in NJ and then it took a turn for the worst. I'm waiting for this storm to pass and warmer weather.
So....what I need to do is try and remove some slop out of the upper front A-arms. It looks like I need to just find some tighter shims. I need the ones that go in front and in back of the control arms. There was always a bunch of wiggle in this area but it's getting worse. I hope I can make it a little better. I wish that A-Arm just filled that gap better, the shims do allow caster adjustment but they suck on a basher.

Recently I watched a guy clear a 90 foot gap with an Outcast....Landed it perfect. The height was ridiculous also. He's an owner of a very insane RC shop, so zero fox were given. Just full speed into a nice ramp. He had to pilot it through the air also .....no wonder the shop never has Arrma parts in stock. :mad:. The crew over there is using up everything. :rolleyes: Biggest air I've ever seen with RC vehicles.
 
Last edited:
Friggin sweet, that you got to see that jump. I wish we had an insane RC store around here. I have to drive over an hour to get to a shop. And then there is no track or basher jumps. Then the RC track that is available at an hour drive, is too tight to run a 1/8 on. At least with anyone else on the track. I might be able to get around the track in a solo race. It's probably only 9 feet wide and an error in the corners could be a slam into the cement wall.

What do you think about an aluminum gear box, on a basher? I did a ton of aluminum on my 1/18, but after it went brushless I needed the weight. Andd the 1/18 isn't going to weigh enough or jump big enough to really mess the aluminum up. I am worried that on a basher, and at $100 a pop, or $200 to do both ends, that we are making the entire car, and it systems too rigid. a tower to tower brace, and aluminum gear boxes, etc, what's the next part to give? I know GKS has good parts, but is this gearbox mostly for the street guys or will they be fit for bashing too? Either way, I bet they look sweet on the ride.
 
So....what I need to do is try and remove some slop out of the upper front A-arms. It looks like I need to just find some tighter shims. I need the ones that go in front and in back of the control arms. There was always a bunch of wiggle in this area but it's getting worse. I hope I can make it a little better. I wish that A-Arm just filled that gap better, the shims do allow caster adjustment but they suck on a basher.

I have replaced all the plastic shims with metal washers/shims. There are a few on the front A arms, pivot balls and some on the rear hubs too. It has made a difference in the amount of play but I also realized that the holes that the A arms pivot on are slightly oversized. There is not way to really remove that play.
 
Friggin sweet, that you got to see that jump. I wish we had an insane RC store around here. I have to drive over an hour to get to a shop. And then there is no track or basher jumps. Then the RC track that is available at an hour drive, is too tight to run a 1/8 on. At least with anyone else on the track. I might be able to get around the track in a solo race. It's probably only 9 feet wide and an error in the corners could be a slam into the cement wall.

What do you think about an aluminum gear box, on a basher? I did a ton of aluminum on my 1/18, but after it went brushless I needed the weight. Andd the 1/18 isn't going to weigh enough or jump big enough to really mess the aluminum up. I am worried that on a basher, and at $100 a pop, or $200 to do both ends, that we are making the entire car, and it systems too rigid. a tower to tower brace, and aluminum gear boxes, etc, what's the next part to give? I know GKS has good parts, but is this gearbox mostly for the street guys or will they be fit for bashing too? Either way, I bet they look sweet on the ride.

I think I would give them a try. However....there are other RC's I want to build so maybe not.

I have replaced all the plastic shims with metal washers/shims. There are a few on the front A arms, pivot balls and some on the rear hubs too. It has made a difference in the amount of play but I also realized that the holes that the A arms pivot on are slightly oversized. There is not way to really remove that play.
I see that the hole is oversized.... Is it like that for a reason or did it become worn out ? If I recall...I think I always noticed play in these parts. Man....I wish I could fit a thicker shaft through the A-arm. I'll get some washers for now...that seems like it will work.
 
Unfortunately, I think it is like that from the factory. I had thought about putting a few set screws to take up the slack, but for all intents and purposes, as on off road basher, it is fine. If I was going for on road speed runs, I would probably try to get everything as tight as possible.
 
IMG_0858.jpg
Off topic... I just wanted to share my side build with you guys. I got a slightly used XB-E for a reasonable price. I want to get some hex hubs installed to mount some decent tires, I'll beat on it 6S for a while, if it's decent.... I'll look into maybe going farther into upgrading it.
 
IMG_0915.JPG
Weekend project....$400 dollar XB-E stripped down, cleaned and running perfect for my son. He's running that, I got the Kraton. The XB-E isn't bad....I'm glad I got it used for less but it's very fun and handles 8S with a different ESC. I may mount some Backflips on it.
 
The alu diff boxes seem nice. But for bashing I rather do several small upgrades, than 1 or 2 that cost about half of a new Kraton. I'd save that money to get a new motor/esc combo or to get a new car... :)
 
Installed new toro motor. 1550kv but is still getting toasty fairly quickly on 13t pinion and 5s lipo. Running backflip tires so traction is good. Cannot hold a finger to it for two seconds. No drivetrain resistance with a completely new bearing set. Not any heavier than any other kraton with front and rear tbone!
I guess it is just a heavy truck with good traction?
Thinking of trying a max 8 combo.
What do you guys think?
What esc were you using? Was it the standard blx?
 
IMG_0344.JPG
IMG_1044.JPG
IMG_1045.JPG
I built this XB-E to run with the Kraton this weekend. The Kraton is a beast and this is also. Just testing it out.....It started out doing 39 mph stock and now it's doing 55mph. The Kraton does about the same. I'm liking the Castle XLX and the SMC batteries. I went with a Leopard motor again. These are all great brands. This XB-E ran extremely cool stock on 6S and now, it still does, on 8S. The XB-E is pretty cool, it's a buggy chassis also.
 
Last edited:
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top