Mojave Mojave EXB Conversion to Kraton or Talion type car?

[TITANIUM94010]

I bought a Mojave EBX last year, and it's a pretty good car, except it doesn't really suit the type of driving/terrain I drive with.
Is there some kind of conversion I can do to make it more like a Kraton, Talion, or maybe even a Notorious? I want to turn it in to something more "bashable," and a bit more capable at doing larger jumps.

There isn't a real budget, but I'd like to stick with the original chassis and main driveline components to keep it at a reasonable price.

Thanks!

 

[Rcproponent]

Kraton arms,axles,towers,turnbuckles,a wing mount and wing and then a new body and you got yourself a kraton XL

Like this:

 

[Dan B.]

Kraton arms and axles ,turnbuckles, a wing mount and wing and then a new body and you got yourself a kraton XL

Like this:
View attachment 188732View attachment 188733View attachment 188734

Cool truck! I see you have HR hub carriers on there, how do you like them? Any issues?

 

[siujoey]

View attachment 188733

I have so many questions! I have been looking for a Raptor body forever. What is this? What modifications did you have to do to make it fit? And if I am running my Mojave without the conversion (just stock, basically), would it still be ok or would I need the clearance the conversion gives you?

 

[Rcproponent]

Cool truck! I see you have HR hub carriers on there, how do you like them? Any issues?

No issues, they work great. Nice n beefy. I hate pulling things apart to put a popped out pivot ball back… these things eliminate that from happening so I am happy.

I have so many questions! I have been looking for a Raptor body forever. What is this? What modifications did you have to do to make it fit? And if I am running my Mojave without the conversion (just stock, basically), would it still be ok or would I need the clearance the conversion gives you?

In order for this body to work you’ll need everything I listed above. Plus towers and body mounts to have exactly what I have … but I think it could be done using the Mojave towers too. But if you didn’t get the kraton suspension I have a feeling you’d have some rubbing. This raptor body is for a revo 3.3… Part number: PRO3468-00

 

[TITANIUM94010]

No issues, they work great. Nice n beefy. I hate pulling things apart to put a popped out pivot ball back… these things eliminate that from happening so I am happy.

In order for this body to work you’ll need everything I listed above. Plus towers and body mounts to have exactly what I have … but I think it could be done using the Mojave towers too. But if you didn’t get the kraton suspension I have a feeling you’d have some rubbing. This raptor body is for a revo 3.3… Part number: PRO3468-00

That's exactly what I'm looking for, thanks!

So Kraton 6s Turnbuckles and arms, wheels obviously, and everything else is the same? (Other than the body mounting parts, I'm probably just going to cut up the mojave body in to something hidious).

I'll probably change the oil to something like 70wt, but should I also change the springs?

 

[Dan B.]

I'll probably change the oil to something like 70wt, but should I also change the springs?

70wt sounds way too high to me. I run 50 in the front and that’s a lot. I run 30 in the rear.

 

[Rcproponent]

That's exactly what I'm looking for, thanks!

So Kraton 6s Turnbuckles and arms, wheels obviously, and everything else is the same? (Other than the body mounting parts, I'm probably just going to cut up the mojave body in to something hidious).

I'll probably change the oil to something like 70wt, but should I also change the springs?

Wouldn’t be a bad idea just to switch to kraton shocks if your going for the long arms. Which are 80wt and if i was to recommend a tire it would be a backflip LP

 

[Dan B.]

Wouldn’t be a bad idea just to switch to kraton shocks if your going for the long arms. Which are 80wt and if i was to recommend a tire it would be a backflip LP

Wow, you guys are really going that high for shock fluid? Did you drill your discs or go to another one with more/bigger holes?

 

[KnowAir]

70wt sounds way too high to me. I run 50 in the front and that’s a lot. I run 30 in the rear.

IMO the heavy shock oils and diff fluids are for hardcore bashing. I usually end up going lighter with the fluids. I prefer better handling over huge jumping. To each their own

 

[Dan B.]

IMO the heavy shock oils and diff fluids are for hardcore bashing. I usually end up going lighter with the fluids. I prefer better handling over huge jumping. To each their own

I was speaking about my Mojave, and I lack experience with huge, video worthy sends. But I’m pretty sure if I put 80wt in my shocks I’d be afraid of blowing the caps right off them without some pretty big holes in the valving discs. I did 50 in the front to limit dive in more extreme braking because I was in a speed run mode, and that definitely makes it push more under normal bashing in corners. I noticed you mentioned going to Talion shocks, I’m guessing they’re valved much differently?

 

[KnowAir]

I was speaking about my Mojave, and I lack experience with huge, video worthy sends. But I’m pretty sure if I put 80wt in my shocks I’d be afraid of blowing the caps right off them without some pretty big holes in the valving discs. I did 50 in the front to limit dive in more extreme braking because I was in a speed run mode, and that definitely makes it push more under normal bashing in corners. I noticed you mentioned going to Talion shocks, I’m guessing they’re valved much differently?

If you were to open the holes or use pistons with larger holes it would defeat the purpose of going to thicker fluid, no? I'll watch the videos and live vicariously through the folks with the big uh, wallets

 

[Dan B.]

If you were to open the holes or use pistons with larger holes it would defeat the purpose of going to thicker fluid, no? I'll watch the videos and live vicariously through the folks with the big uh, wallets

No man, it doesn’t defeat the purpose. If you step up a little it’s fine, that’s tuning. If you triple the weight with the same valving, well, good luck with that. It gets you properly tuned shocks if you valve it properly. Why not just put molasses in there and see how it works?
Sorry, I don’t agree at all. To be clear, I’m talking about the OP’s stock Mojave shocks. If Talion shocks are different and valved accordingly then ok. I have no experience with them. I just have experience with my stock Mojave EXB shocks and have played with them a fair bit, and ain’t no 80wt ever going in them. I might as well put solid struts on it at that point (maybe good for speed runs on a super smooth surface) but I can actually imagine cracking the a-arm lower shock mount hole locations with that setup, especially if you’re sending it hard which is sort of what the question was about. Can someone chime in and tell me I‘m totally wrong about this?

 

[Rcproponent]

No man, it doesn’t defeat the purpose. If you step up a little it’s fine, that’s tuning. If you triple the weight with the same valving, well, good luck with that. It gets you properly tuned shocks if you valve it properly. Why not just put molasses in there and see how it works?
Sorry, I don’t agree at all. To be clear, I’m talking about the OP’s stock Mojave shocks. If Talion shocks are different and valved accordingly then ok. I have no experience with them. I just have experience with my stock Mojave EXB shocks and have played with them a fair bit, and ain’t no 80wt ever going in them. I might as well put solid struts on it at that point (maybe good for speed runs on a super smooth surface) but I can actually imagine cracking the a-arm lower shock mount hole locations with that setup. Can someone chime in and tell me I‘m totally wrong about this?

Well, take it from someone who has 80wt in their stock Mojave shocks. I can tell you… it’s fine More than fine. And I did nothing to the valving either. Dumped out the stock, put in some 80wt..

Mojave runs great for me with 80wt in it. Doesn’t nose dive and roll at the flick of the steering wheel anymore.

I’ve also jumped my Mojave quite a bit. Tbone ramp, highest setting.. even squeezed a backflip outta the ol girl a few times…. No blown shocks … or seals or anything.

Also, after studying the diagrams that arrma provides. It would appear the stock valving is all the same for all the models..

Correction, the typhon, senton, limitless ,infraction and felony use the discs with 1/2 on them and the other models use the disc that says 1/3 on them:

 

[KnowAir]

No man, it doesn’t defeat the purpose. If you step up a little it’s fine, that’s tuning. If you triple the weight with the same valving, well, good luck with that. It gets you properly tuned shocks if you valve it properly. Why not just put molasses in there and see how it works?
Sorry, I don’t agree at all. To be clear, I’m talking about the OP’s stock Mojave shocks. If Talion shocks are different and valved accordingly then ok. I have no experience with them. I just have experience with my stock Mojave EXB shocks and have played with them a fair bit, and ain’t no 80wt ever going in them. I might as well put solid struts on it at that point (maybe good for speed runs on a super smooth surface) but I can actually imagine cracking the a-arm lower shock mount hole locations with that setup, especially if you’re sending it hard which is sort of what the question was about. Can someone chime in and tell me I‘m totally wrong about this?

I think there is some confusion. I'm saying if you go from say 40 to 70 weight AND open up the valving, you may very well defeat the purpose.
Also, I said I run lighter fluids than stock for better handling. Not a big air guy myself
Or speed runner for that matter.

Well, take it from someone who has 80wt in their stock Mojave shocks. I can tell you… it’s fine More than fine. And I did nothing to the valving either. Dumped out the stock, put in some 80wt..

Mojave runs great for me with 80wt in it. Doesn’t nose dive and roll at the flick of the steering wheel anymore.

I’ve also jumped my Mojave quite a bit. Tbone ramp, highest setting.. even squeezed a backflip outta the ol girl a few times…. No blown shocks … or seals or anything.

Also, after studying the diagrams that arrma provides. It would appear the stock valving is all the same for all the models..

Correction, the typhon, senton, limitless ,infraction and felony use the discs with 1/2 on them and the other models use the disc that says 1/3 on them: View attachment 188936View attachment 188937View attachment 188938

Thanks for clarification. I personally want the live handling, therefore use thinner than stock typically. I rarely am running full speed tho

 

[Dan B.]

Well, take it from someone who has 80wt in their stock Mojave shocks. I can tell you… it’s fine More than fine. And I did nothing to the valving either. Dumped out the stock, put in some 80wt..

Mojave runs great for me with 80wt in it. Doesn’t nose dive and roll at the flick of the steering wheel anymore.

I’ve also jumped my Mojave quite a bit. Tbone ramp, highest setting.. even squeezed a backflip outta the ol girl a few times…. No blown shocks … or seals or anything.

Also, after studying the diagrams that arrma provides. It would appear the stock valving is all the same for all the models..

Correction, the typhon, senton, limitless ,infraction and felony use the discs with 1/2 on them and the other models use the disc that says 1/3 on them: View attachment 188936View attachment 188937View attachment 188938

Ok, so the valving is different.

I think there is some confusion. I'm saying if you go from say 40 to 70 weight AND open up the valving, you may very well defeat the purpose.
Also, I said I run lighter fluids than stock for better handling. Not a big air guy myself
Or speed runner for that matter.

Thanks for clarification. I personally want the live handling, therefore use thinner than stock typically. I rarely am running full speed tho

Well, I guess I might stand corrected then. It’s just hard for me to imagine 80 after putting in 50 for speed runs and really screwing up the handling in anything but a straight line. But like I said, I never do big sends or the skatepark thing. Maybe I’ll do it someday if I score a Kraton or something. Thanks for the input!

 

[Rcproponent]

Ok, so the valving is different.

The kraton, talion, Mojave and outcast all have the same valving.

Kraton/outcast use 80wt or 1000cst
Talion uses 2000cst
Mojave uses 550 cst

All of those vehicles use the same “valving”

 

[MeHurricane]

Adding to the parts list would be a front bumper...

To make shopping for this easier I would check with a parts breaker like Jenny's RC for good groupings of parts and to make it more affordable. Look at the parts lists on the Arrma website because things like the V5 arms and hubs are probably shared with the other trucks so you could get the parts on Jenny's RC from different models like the notorious/outcast. (and it might be cheaper too) It's also a good time to upgrade some things if you wanted to... (Most of us don't need much of an excuse.)

Another thing to consider is gearing, depending on what tires you go with. If they are taller than the one's you have now, at the very least closely monitor the motor/esc temps closely for the first runs or go with an appropriately smaller pinion.

If big jumps are a thing that you want to do, a narrower body like RCProponet suggested will help in catching less air than the a cut up Mojave body. (I have one of his Kraton XL builds that I really enjoy.) The larger tires will help with air control so that will be a big improvement but the parachute effect won't be fun. Monster Mojave's are a thing to so maybe you won't have to cut the body up as much as you think.

Not to muddy the shock piston/oil discussion but note that you normally get the extra shock pistons in the packaging that came with your Mojave so you might already have some to use if you want to play with tuning them after you get it running you have the parts, just need some oil. The springs on the Kraton are heavier so you should consider changing them. The idea of a SCT is the leaning is cool and scale like. With the longer Kraton arms to have more leverage and the different drive characteristics wanted, a spring change would be good.

Good Luck with your build!
Hurricane

 

[Dan B.]

The kraton, talion, Mojave and outcast all have the same valving.

Kraton/outcast use 80wt or 1000cst
Talion uses 2000cst
Mojave uses 550 cst

All of those vehicles use the same “valving”

Well, thank you for the information. I’m really surprised you can go that thick, double, without re-valving. It certainly has my wheels turning. If the same shock with the same valving is running 40 or 80, than the valving for one of those choices could probably be greatly improved. Hmmmm…

 

[Rcproponent]

Well, thank you for the information. I’m really surprised you can go that thick, double, without re-valving. It certainly has my wheels turning. If the same shock with the same valving is running 40 or 80, than the valving for one of those choices could probably be greatly improved. Hmmmm…

I’d agree with you on that, probably some room for improvement for sure.