Mojave Mojave EXB - More suspension travel - Mamba Monster 2

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sebcbien

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Belgium
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
  2. Mojave EXB
  3. Outcast 8s
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Typhon 6s
Hello,
I'm looking more and more to the Mojave EXB.
I thing it could be my next purchase.
There is just one thing that I would like to see is better suspension travel, like in the UDR and Losi Baja Rey.
I own the UDR and the way that this thing land after a jump is always "uh !?! :oops:" (even my wife, not in the hobby at all, notices it :p) the chassis on this truck "never" slap the ground like almost any of my other cars, it's because it has almost 11cm of rear suspension travel ...
1605634553443.png
1605634576403.png

So, do you know if the Mojave could be tweaked to allow more travel ? like longer shocks, longer CVD, cups, A Arms, Towers ? Which parts should I buy ?
I think that the Mojave may well have more suspension travel on the front wheels than the UDR, I would focus on the rear.
It's not to send it "to the moon", I would buy the EXB not for the chassis but for the enhanced other parts ... and the painting :love:.
1605634668856.png


I'm also thinking of installing a Castle Mamba Monter 2 1512 2650KV + ESC lying in a drawer. Any advice ?
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/1-8-mamba-monster-2-25v-esc-waterproof/CSE010010800.html
https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...otor-1512-2650kv-4mm-bullet/CSE060006100.html
1605634805561.png

Thanks !
 
Hello,
I'm looking more and more to the Mojave EXB.
I thing it could be my next purchase.
There is just one thing that I would like to see is better suspension travel, like in the UDR and Losi Baja Rey.
I own the UDR and the way that this thing land after a jump is always "uh !?! :oops:" (even my wife, not in the hobby at all, notices it :p) the chassis on this truck "never" slap the ground like almost any of my other cars, it's because it has almost 11cm of rear suspension travel ...
View attachment 109624 View attachment 109625
So, do you know if the Mojave could be tweaked to allow more travel ? like longer shocks, longer CVD, cups, A Arms, Towers ? Which parts should I buy ?
I think that the Mojave may well have more suspension travel on the front wheels than the UDR, I would focus on the rear.
It's not to send it "to the moon", I would buy the EXB not for the chassis but for the enhanced other parts ... and the painting :love:.
View attachment 109626

I'm also thinking of installing a Castle Mamba Monter 2 1512 2650KV + ESC lying in a drawer. Any advice ?
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/1-8-mamba-monster-2-25v-esc-waterproof/CSE010010800.html
https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...otor-1512-2650kv-4mm-bullet/CSE060006100.html
View attachment 109627
Thanks !
I would definitely get a different motor, the KV is way to high. The MM2 is a great ESC, although quite a bit outdated. A great combo would be either the Hobbywing Max6/1650kv motor or the MMX8s with the 1717 1650kv. But some people here on the forum had problems with their 1717, so this might not be the best option. You can also get the MM2 with the Hobbywing 1650kv but I wouldn't go higher than 2050kv on the Mojave :)
 
The K EXB has been altered at the Rear shock towers. Mojave too is narrower (new narrower tower on the Krton.) The shocks appear more vertical. That gives you more travel right there where you seem to want that much like the UDR. But wanting to avoid chassis slap completely is not the way to go. It is part of the design of a basher. There will never be a big air basher that doesn't land and touch the chassis. It is by design and prevents susp. damage. K EXB is a big air basher. Shock tuning may be your only option. Shock pack, preload, droop, spring tension, stiffer springs, different pistons and oils..... But the suspension geometry of the EXB Mojave or Kr. is what it is. Just my thoughts. There may be others that disagree. Hopefully they chime in. I'm open...:cool:

Edit: The suspension of the 6S Mojave and its EXB version has a lot of susp. travel, maybe that's why you are looking at it or is something to compare to. But chassis slap is still there by design on all their rigs.
 
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Hello,
I'm looking more and more to the Mojave EXB.
I thing it could be my next purchase.
There is just one thing that I would like to see is better suspension travel, like in the UDR and Losi Baja Rey.
I own the UDR and the way that this thing land after a jump is always "uh !?! :oops:" (even my wife, not in the hobby at all, notices it :p) the chassis on this truck "never" slap the ground like almost any of my other cars, it's because it has almost 11cm of rear suspension travel ...
View attachment 109624 View attachment 109625
So, do you know if the Mojave could be tweaked to allow more travel ? like longer shocks, longer CVD, cups, A Arms, Towers ? Which parts should I buy ?
I think that the Mojave may well have more suspension travel on the front wheels than the UDR, I would focus on the rear.
It's not to send it "to the moon", I would buy the EXB not for the chassis but for the enhanced other parts ... and the painting :love:.
View attachment 109626

I'm also thinking of installing a Castle Mamba Monter 2 1512 2650KV + ESC lying in a drawer. Any advice ?
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/1-8-mamba-monster-2-25v-esc-waterproof/CSE010010800.html
https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...otor-1512-2650kv-4mm-bullet/CSE060006100.html
View attachment 109627
Thanks !
How about you just buy the Super Baja Rey :) That thing is so sick.
 
Hello,
I'm looking more and more to the Mojave EXB.
I thing it could be my next purchase.
There is just one thing that I would like to see is better suspension travel, like in the UDR and Losi Baja Rey.
I own the UDR and the way that this thing land after a jump is always "uh !?! :oops:" (even my wife, not in the hobby at all, notices it :p) the chassis on this truck "never" slap the ground like almost any of my other cars, it's because it has almost 11cm of rear suspension travel ...
View attachment 109624 View attachment 109625
So, do you know if the Mojave could be tweaked to allow more travel ? like longer shocks, longer CVD, cups, A Arms, Towers ? Which parts should I buy ?
I think that the Mojave may well have more suspension travel on the front wheels than the UDR, I would focus on the rear.
It's not to send it "to the moon", I would buy the EXB not for the chassis but for the enhanced other parts ... and the painting :love:.
View attachment 109626

I'm also thinking of installing a Castle Mamba Monter 2 1512 2650KV + ESC lying in a drawer. Any advice ?
https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/1-8-mamba-monster-2-25v-esc-waterproof/CSE010010800.html
https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...otor-1512-2650kv-4mm-bullet/CSE060006100.html
View attachment 109627
Thanks !
That combo won’t last long. I would stick with the stock RTR setup over the 1512/MM2
 
^^^ Yes that rig is tempting isn't it????:cool:
That combo won’t last long. I would stick with the stock RTR setup over the 1512/MM2
I was afraid to go on a limb and say the same...a RTR setup is durable and fast enough. (6S) Mine is ballistic enough. Honestly speeds over 55MPH on this Mojave is ludicrous, The nose of the body lifts. Hard to control. I say because the Driver interior is sealed and the rear body vents cant release air pressure fast enough. So it lifts. I am searching for some adequate Lexan for a windshield ,leaving the side windows open. I think that will keep the nose down better. I also have the Scorched RC wheel wells and the chassis is sealed off well enough. (y) So underbody parachuting is reduced substantially. But lets face it the Mojave body makes things top heavy. It weight over 2 pounds by itself.:cool:
 
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I would definitely get a different motor, the KV is way to high. The MM2 is a great ESC, although quite a bit outdated. A great combo would be either the Hobbywing Max6/1650kv motor or the MMX8s with the 1717 1650kv. But some people here on the forum had problems with their 1717, so this might not be the best option. You can also get the MM2 with the Hobbywing 1650kv but I wouldn't go higher than 2050kv on the Mojave :)
Ok, thanks, and if I put a small pignon ? I have this one in a drawer, buying a new combo is more expensive ;-)
wanting to avoid chassis slap completely is not the way to go. It is part of the design of a basher. There will never be a big air basher that doesn't land and touch the chassis. It is by design and prevents susp. damage.
I understand this, the UDR slaps also when jumping too high, just it does it a lot less with normal jump and jumping without slapping makes it feel more like a real car. I'm just trying to minimise this with the Mojave.
How about you just buy the Super Baja Rey :) That thing is so sick.
I totally agree :love:, but the playgrounds I have around my house are not for this scale, Super Baja Rey needs a lot of space to be used like it should. That's my problem with my X-Maxx, I do not use it as much as I would like because I have no big space easily accessible. The Outcast (on 4S) and E-Revo are just ok, but I'm not often at full throttle more than 1 second. The only car that I can use the full potential is with my slash's when racing against my kids...

That combo won’t last long. I would stick with the stock RTR setup over the 1512/MM2
ok, thanks
I also have the Scorched RC wheel wells and the chassis is sealed off well enough. (y)
Also in my buying list (y)
 
^^^I wish everyone of my rigs stayed clean inside like my Mojave. Just be very patient installing the Scr.Rc wheel wells. It is a perfect fit, but trimming has to be done right. Measure 10 times befor you trim. and its perfect.
 
Ok, thanks, and if I put a small pignon ? I have this one in a drawer, buying a new combo is more expensive ;-)

I understand this, the UDR slaps also when jumping too high, just it does it a lot less with normal jump and jumping without slapping makes it feel more like a real car. I'm just trying to minimise this with the Mojave.

I totally agree :love:, but the playgrounds I have around my house are not for this scale, Super Baja Rey needs a lot of space to be used like it should. That's my problem with my X-Maxx, I do not use it as much as I would like because I have no big space easily accessible. The Outcast (on 4S) and E-Revo are just ok, but I'm not often at full throttle more than 1 second. The only car that I can use the full potential is with my slash's when racing against my kids...


ok, thanks

Also in my buying list (y)
You can try a 12t pinion but I would definitely put a big fan on the motor. The motor is too small for a heavy 1/7 scale rig like the Mojave.
 
^^^ I beg to differ. The 2050kv stocker is far from too small a motor. It will even handle 8S with an 8S ESC. The Mojave is no heavier than the Kraton give or take.:cool:
 
Do some of you know which shocks of which other Arrma model have longer travel ?
Thanks !
 
Since you have a UDR , why the want for the Mojave ? Not that it is a bad thing cause I have a Mojave , the new Super Baja Rey 2.0 , and now keep finding myself viewing / researching the UDR !!!! How has the UDR been ????
 
Do some of you know which shocks of which other Arrma model have longer travel ?
Thanks !
Kraton/OC 8S shocks have the longest travel of all the Arrmas. As far as I know. :cool:
 
Do some of you know which shocks of which other Arrma model have longer travel ?
Thanks !
Since you have a UDR , why the want for the Mojave ? Not that it is a bad thing cause I have a Mojave , the new Super Baja Rey 2.0 , and now keep finding myself viewing / researching the UDR !!!! How has the UDR been ????
I really like my UDR, the driving realism is very good, the transmission is also quite quiet and the suspensions are almost perfectly tuned from the factory.
I also like the ESC behavior, especially the way it brakes, reverse without any lag.
On the delicate side, the engine can heat up in summer and you have to watch this if you do want to chain the packs and you are heavy on the trigger.
So add a fan or make the air circulate better near the motor.
It is quite reliable, but the rear suspension system is less solid than a classical style suspension (I used aluminum arms and so far it holds).
I mostly have a first world problem ... The Mojave is ART ! :love: :love: :love:, and I guess I can bash it harder.
 
These two trucks have completely different suspension design. The UDR is a scale truck with a live rear axle while the Mojave is a fully independent suspension. The Mojave will perform and handle better but the UDR will look more "scale" if that is what you are into.

What do you think about raising the body up somewhat so it exposes the rear suspension a bit more?
 
Kraton/OC 8S shocks have the longest travel of all the Arrmas. As far as I know. :cool:
indeed... but will they fit ?
These two trucks have completely different suspension design. The UDR is a scale truck with a live rear axle while the Mojave is a fully independent suspension. The Mojave will perform and handle better but the UDR will look more "scale" if that is what you are into.

What do you think about raising the body up somewhat so it exposes the rear suspension a bit more?
I really would like longer travel, like real stadium super trucks:
1605660905363.png

I just found back the video that made me think of installing longer shocks:
Have a look at 3:27 it's a Hobao Hyper8 SCT and he tuned to have a longer rear travel (and he says it could have do more):
Hobao is a good brand but the body's are just horrible :sick:
 
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Solid rear axle rigs with trailing arms are very easy to add longer shocks. Much like RC Crawlers.
Independent suspension designs are configured to a certain amount of travel because the Arms articulate a certain fixed amount and limited to a certain amount of droop.
You cant add longer shocks and expect them to fully rebound if the arms wont allow that extension. :cool:
 
Sure ! I know that the arms cannot go lower than the stops on the chassis.
But sometimes it's the length of the shocks that limits this. (On the Hobao for example, as the shock towers have adjusting holes, it can be tuned higher or lower)
@3x9rtse could you maybe have a look on your Mojave to see if the drop of the A-Arm is stopped by the contact with the chassis or by the length of the Shocks ? ?
Thanks !

 
The arms will drop to the droop ears of the chassis with the droop screws removed. The shocks usually extend before full arm droop. So the shocks get all the damage from rebounding . The purpose of droop in a basher is to limit the shock rebound extension stroke so the rod ends and pistons don't break. So the shocks don't over-extend. On a Speed runner/ on road rig, you use droop more so to set chassis height against its running weight. Droop adjustments do the same on both, but the objectives are different.
 
Remove the shocks and test how far the arms will droop. adjust the droop screw for more droop. The "dog bone" shafts will be the limiting factor, they start to bind in the diff output cups and at the wheel axle. When you are at maximum, check how much that is more than the shock can handle, before buying any longer shocks etc. i think there is not much more travel available, I think you would need longer suspension arms to have more travel. And then the truck gets wider and the body wont fit.
 
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