Mojave right front wheel keeps coming off

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Climber68

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Hey all! Been having a blast these past several weeks! But I seem to have hit an issue with the right front wheel continually coming off. Not sure how the nut keeps coming loose - even with a dab of super glue. And now the hex impression on the inside of the wheel is rounded out.

I did order the extended length hubs so that I can do a double nut.

Should I be using a shim too? anything else?

And I'd love to hear recommendations for a new wheel set!

btw - my 1 year old black lab gets so excited when she sees me bringing it out - she loves running after it!
 
Hey all! Been having a blast these past several weeks! But I seem to have hit an issue with the right front wheel continually coming off. Not sure how the nut keeps coming loose - even with a dab of super glue. And now the hex impression on the inside of the wheel is rounded out.

I did order the extended length hubs so that I can do a double nut.

Should I be using a shim too? anything else?

And I'd love to hear recommendations for a new wheel set!

btw - my 1 year old black lab gets so excited when she sees me bringing it out - she loves running after it!
What center diff fluid are you running?

I was running an earplug and was stripping wheels all the time, but now I upgraded to M2C hex’s, EXB wheels and put 200k in the center diff have stripped one wheel in 6 months.
 
@Rob66 - Running what it came with from the factory. I ordered the M2C nuts and hubs. Looking for a new wheel set now.
 
After using this never had that issue again.
https://m2cracing.net/arrma/495-m2c-3160-arrma-17mm-hub-extenders.html

BTW: I revived the rounded wheel hex using the grub screw method: put the aluminum wheel axle hex inside the rounded wheel hex. Take an old hex screw driver and put a grub screw on it (luckliy I had a bag of small 1.5 hex grub screws laying around) . Heat the grub screw with a torch lighter (glowing hot tip). push the grub screw in the plastic wheel hex from a light outside angle towards the inside in order the get the plastic pushing towards the wheel hex. Do this with 2 more grub screws to create a triangular pattern (2, 6 and 10 o clock). After cooling down (1 minute or so) take the aluminium hex out and you should have a revived wheel hex strengtened with 3 metal grub screws. Sand down the edges if necesarry to prevent rubbing of the wheel hex with the wheel hub carries.
My wheel is still running(y)
 
After using this never had that issue again.
https://m2cracing.net/arrma/495-m2c-3160-arrma-17mm-hub-extenders.html

BTW: I revived the rounded wheel hex using the grub screw method: put the aluminum wheel axle hex inside the rounded wheel hex. Take an old hex screw driver and put a grub screw on it (luckliy I had a bag of small 1.5 hex grub screws laying around) . Heat the grub screw with a torch lighter (glowing hot tip). push the grub screw in the plastic wheel hex from a light outside angle towards the inside in order the get the plastic pushing towards the wheel hex. Do this with 2 more grub screws to create a triangular pattern (2, 6 and 10 o clock). After cooling down (1 minute or so) take the aluminium hex out and you should have a revived wheel hex strengtened with 3 metal grub screws. Sand down the edges if necesarry to prevent rubbing of the wheel hex with the wheel hub carries.
My wheel is still running(y)
Do you have pictures of this? I’m interested in seeing this 😁👍🏻
 
I think this is a good idea too
https://m2cracing.net/notorious-v5-exb/701-m2c-3505-universal-6-lug-hex-adapter-kit.html
42E80BDE-9B7D-49A3-BAE3-18F3A883FBBC.png
 
Do you have pictures of this? I’m interested in seeing this 😁👍🏻
the grub screws are in the three red positions. As you can see the hot screws pushed the plastic back in place to an almost a perfect hex again 👍.
I’ve marked the hex edge with a white marker to see if there was any rubbing with the wheel hub.
image.jpg
 
Yeah once the nut gets loose that one first time, it will ruin the wheel hub before the nut actually falls off. Then the nut will come off even easier more frequently and subsequently. Your wheel is toast now IMHO.
I did use the OE nuts and hex's, Never had a loosening issue at all. Got the M2C single nut hexes, just because..... and now use them. But honestly, I never lost a stocker wheel nut on my Mojo. Yet many have.:rolleyes: I run 6s only FWIW. Stock Mojo wheels.
Don't use CA on wheel nuts. Only Blue Thread locker, if anything. And let cure for a day before running.
Also, try shimming the outer wheel BB's. Will reduce slop on the axels. What I do to most of my 6s rigs where there is excess axel end play.

Also, in general, the Right side of the rig will usually have their wheel nuts loosen more easily, simply from the Clockwise directional axel rotation against a "Right Hand Threaded" nut. So in theory, and conversely, the Left side nuts would maintain tightness more effectively with the axels' Counter Clockwise rotation.
Anyone care to comment on this?
 
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m2c is overkill that double style

this is all you need

a nut with Rough edges that grip the wheel, mojave stock wheels have extra hard plastic
78.jpg

get some covered with Rough edges that faces the wheel

i have run my mojave with 8s never loose a wheel after i buy better aftermarked nuts

s-l300.jpg
 
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