Outcast Motor temp issue?

Frank

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Ran my outcast through a full charge of 9000 mah 4s batteries. Hit LVC, carried it inside, took body off, and turned remote and truck off. So a few minutes had passed since it was ran at WOT. Felt a lot of heat coming from the motor so I then go downstairs to get my temp gun, came back and measured it, it was at 205°F. My temp gun reads about 15 degrees low on boiling water so my motor was around 220°F, roughly. This was 5 minutes after I stopped running it. ESC and batteries were both in the low 100s. Is this normal, especially on 4s? Any suggestion and/or recommendations? Thanks in advance.
20170307_134859.jpg
Image reads 198 because I didn't take a pic right away.
20170307_134910.jpg 20170307_134927.jpg
Battery and ESC temps.
 

rcaddict420

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Im not the best on temps, but were u running really hard the whole time?
And did u change ur gearing?
I beleave 200+ is bad for the megnets in the motor.
 

Frank

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Thanks for your response. Everything is stock on it and yes I was running it hard, 4s hard. I should add that it was around 49°F and very windy outside.
 
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TwiZted SkullZ

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That sounds like a pretty high temp.....funny that you did this as I was going to make a video
using a laser temp gun similar to yours and measure the difference between with and without
a Castle motor cooling fan.
 

Frank

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That sounds like a pretty high temp.....funny that you did this as I was going to make a video
using a laser temp gun similar to yours and measure the difference between with and without
a Castle motor cooling fan.
That would be an expirement I'd enjoy seeing. I have a dual fan setup on my Vorza and it definitely makes a difference, never compared with and without though. Hope you do it. :)
Unfortunately I don't think a cooling fan could keep my outcast motor cool haha, especially on 6s and warmer outside.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Ran my outcast through a full charge of 9000 mah 4s batteries. Hit LVC, carried it inside, took body off, and turned remote and truck off. So a few minutes had passed since it was ran at WOT. Felt a lot of heat coming from the motor so I then go downstairs to get my temp gun, came back and measured it, it was at 205°F. My temp gun reads about 15 degrees low on boiling water so my motor was around 220°F, roughly. This was 5 minutes after I stopped running it. ESC and batteries were both in the low 100s. Is this normal, especially on 4s? Any suggestion and/or recommendations? Thanks in advance.
View attachment 8541
Image reads 198 because I didn't take a pic right away.
View attachment 8542 View attachment 8543
Battery and ESC temps.
Make sure your gear mesh isn't too tight, go over drivetrain and make sure bearings seem intact and no rolling resistance is present. I've found binding before in front dogbone/CVDs after Kraton rebuild at full extension. Had to dial down droop screws and add shims to front upper pillow balls/upper A arms. If you rule out mechanical resistance, make sure connections are all good/clean. 200+ is too hot!!!
 

rcaddict420

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Do you have any batteries that are about 5000 mah? If so run about the same aggressiveness and see wht your temps are, 9000 mah is pretty high to be running hard the whole time, i know kinda rule of thumb u dnt want to run multiple packs thro ur truck with out time for it to cool down, ur 9000mah batteries is like running two packs thro it back to back,
Im with u tho, i have 8000mah batteries but haven't run thro full packs on it yet. But id deff do wht rich said and check all ur mesh, any resistance will turn to heat
 

Frank

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What's the best and easiest way of checking for resistance throughout the entire truck? Or is it one part at a time kind of deal? Also, would this lead to higher esc temps too since it would also be working harder or not necessarily?
 

chargh

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From the Out Cast manual
The maximum safe temperatures are:
• 70 degrees Celsius / 158 degree Fahrenheit for ESCs.
• 80 degrees Celsius / 176 degrees Fahrenheit for motors.
• If motors or ESCs exceed 95/200 degrees Fahrenheit it can shorten their life or cause failure.
 

Rich Duperbash

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What's the best and easiest way of checking for resistance throughout the entire truck? Or is it one part at a time kind of deal? Also, would this lead to higher esc temps too since it would also be working harder or not necessarily?
The motor bears more of the brunt with added resistance. One simple way of checking for resistance is free rolling your truck across the floor. Not sure how many others do this...Lol. I like to free roll in the garage to listen for weird noises, but mostly to guage how quickly she stops. When your mesh is tight, truck stops sort of abruptly at end of roll and surely doesn't cover as much ground. Same as with truck lifted and applying throttle, wheels stop more suddenly after rotations. I visually look the truck over and check for rubbing anywhere including bark or small rocks under drivecups, shafts, and even center diff cup. Stuff can hide easily and rub. Bad or failing bearings need to be pinpointed, that takes more time and investigation.
 

Va-jeeper

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From the Out Cast manual
The maximum safe temperatures are:
• 70 degrees Celsius / 158 degree Fahrenheit for ESCs.
• 80 degrees Celsius / 176 degrees Fahrenheit for motors.
• If motors or ESCs exceed 95/200 degrees Fahrenheit it can shorten their life or cause failure.

Hmmmm....that's interesting. I just looked at my Kraton manual and it says 105c/221f. It will then go into temperature protection mode. It says the same in my Nero manual. That's strange....I wonder if there is something different with the Outcast.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Hmmmm....that's interesting. I just looked at my Kraton manual and it says 105c/221f. It will then go into temperature protection mode. It says the same in my Nero manual. That's strange....I wonder if there is something different with the Outcast.
The Outcast is it's own special mini Beast animal!!!
 

Rich Duperbash

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That she is. Maybe someone should put a Kraton ESC and put it in an Outcast....lol...jk!
That's hilarious....It would burn to the ground in no time...Lol. I'm just glad my Nero motor is working OK with the smaller 4 mm connectors. Going to give her a harder push tomorrow in the Outcast with 18 pinion. Wheelie's for days I'm sure.
 

Va-jeeper

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That's hilarious....It would burn to the ground in no time...Lol. I'm just glad my Nero motor is working OK with the smaller 4 mm connectors. Going to give her a harder push tomorrow in the Outcast with 18 pinion. Wheelie's for days I'm sure.

Glad to hear the Nero motor is working for you! I picked up a Nero motor myself to put in my SWB Kraton I built....no thanks to you...lol! I have the BLX200 system in my LWB Kraton I built so I'm interested to see if the ESC really makes any difference. I'll be plugging the motor in with some adapters for now. See if there is any difference before putting on new plugs. Hmmmm....maybe I should put it in my stock Kraton to actually do a true comparison.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Glad to hear the Nero motor is working for you! I picked up a Nero motor myself to put in my SWB Kraton I built....no thanks to you...lol! I have the BLX200 system in my LWB Kraton I built so I'm interested to see if the ESC really makes any difference. I'll be plugging the motor in with some adapters for now. See if there is any difference before putting on new plugs. Hmmmm....maybe I should put it in my stock Kraton to actually do a true comparison.
That would be cool to do a comparison of some kind. Yeah, I'm digging the motor for sure, still need more time with it, does feel like I may need to adjust the brake up maybe. Did finally break 150f with it bashing very fast/hard in mostly bark on 18 tooth in the Kraton a few days back. That was after entire 6s pack with lots of WOT, hard starts and stops, basically roosting the crap out of the local park. Definitely a big boost in torque and overall fun factor. I'm pretty impressed and owe Thomas P another big thanks for his recommendation.
 

Va-jeeper

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That would be cool to do a comparison of some kind. Yeah, I'm digging the motor for sure, still need more time with it, does feel like I may need to adjust the brake up maybe. Did finally break 150f with it bashing very fast/hard in mostly bark on 18 tooth in the Kraton a few days back. That was after entire 6s pack with lots of WOT, hard starts and stops, basically roosting the crap out of the local park. Definitely a big boost in torque and overall fun factor. I'm pretty impressed and owe Thomas P another big thanks for his recommendation.

My motor would hit 150f. I would run a lot of WOT in an open area a a local park. I have a heat sink and fan on it. Part of the issue I was having with the heat was coming from the Outcast side guards along with the mud guards. It was trapping all the heat under the body. I was running it the other day and it shut down. I pulled the body off and all this heat came up. It actually got my batteries hot and caused a LVC on the ESC. I have taken the guards off and hopefully the heat will be able to escape. Or worse case....I'll have to learn throttle control...lol

Or get smaller batteries. I'm running SMC 3s 7200 90c.
 

Rich Duperbash

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My motor would hit 150f. I would run a lot of WOT in an open area a a local park. I have a heat sink and fan on it. Part of the issue I was having with the heat was coming from the Outcast side guards along with the mud guards. It was trapping all the heat under the body. I was running it the other day and it shut down. I pulled the body off and all this heat came up. It actually got my batteries hot and caused a LVC on the ESC. I have taken the guards off and hopefully the heat will be able to escape. Or worse case....I'll have to learn throttle control...lol

Or get smaller batteries. I'm running SMC 3s 7200 90c.
Airflow makes a huge difference in temp control. Probably a good idea to shed mud guards or at least trim or vent with holes. Those are some big batteries. I'm using a SMC 6s brick. It's just too fun to run fast with these rigs...Lol. I'll probably get a heatsink/fan as springtime warms up, summer's here hit 100+ no problem.
 
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