Kraton My 40+ Packs Exb Experience So Far..

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Dscracing1320

BIG AIR BASHER
Premium Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
434
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Location
Charlotte NC
Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. Infraction
  3. Kraton 8S
  4. Kraton 6s
  5. Kraton EXB
  6. Mojave
  7. Mojave EXB
  8. Notorious
  9. Outcast 6s
  10. Senton 3s
  11. Talion
  12. Typhon 6s
  13. Typhon 3s
Let me start off by saying this truck has met or exceeded all of my expectations so far..

I'm a big air basher, live only a few miles from Mitch Looper "M2C racing" I own 4 Kratons, most are fully built big block powered m2c rigs.

When I originally bought the EXB I was already planning on swapping chassis and my standard bash proof setup. But the longer I thought about it the more I wanted to experience the truck in stock form then as I bent or broke parts I throw on parts I consider bombproof. Within reason that is.

So the first thing I did was throw in a Max6 and a few different 4092 motors I had laying around then completely went through all 3 diffs and getting a better understanding for them. The rear diff was properly shimmed and I added 3 lsd plates per side without the locking discs. I went 60k Front , 200k Center and 20k Rear with the modified open setup. This setup keeps it open and works amazingly. I actually prefer the handling over my v4's. My setup has been proven to literally be bullet proof so far. Im also known to be very hard on my diffs, I'm not afraid to self right the truck. I break pins all the time in my v4's, even with drill blanks. So far the Exb has been flawless. Only broken parts are snapped off wing mount 2.5mm screws. Not a big deal, but I went ahead and added a m2c wing mount support for added strength. And my dive cups are almost completely destroyed yet still are working.

I actually prefer this rig currently to my heavy m2c rigs because of the amount of air control I have without the added chassis weight.

98% of my packs are spent hitting my ramp where I get 30' to 40' of air and 100+ feet on average. I do almost no flat land driving other to the next ramp hit. Thank God for a large back yard. I run several packs everyday. And the EXB chassis is still perfectly straight although completely silver now lol.

I've tried several motor setups so far 4082/2000kv w/18T
4092/1650kv w/21T
4092/1250kv w/24T
4092/1480kv w/23T
4282/ 1650kv w/22T

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Nice! Good to know. I'm in the UK and mine arrives tomorrow. Out of the box all the diffs will be checked and the servo saver tighten.
 
nicely done and finally someone who knows what he is doing ?
great that you are just looking for a solution to the problem ? and not nagging that there are no shims ?or where to put shim here and there? like a large part of the forum ?

I have the same oil in my exb as you have in your diffs.
only made a slip of the rear ?
I also think it's fine to drive, but this is my first kraton ? so I can't see or feel the difference ? and have nothing broke yet but I also did it taken IT Easy?

But I had already read about it once on the forum of those lsd plates like you did.
And I will certainly try what you have done and see if I feel or notice a difference.
am curious if he is better then.


but great for your extensive report ? and thanks for the tip ?
Let me start off by saying this truck has met or exceeded all of my expectations so far..

I'm a big air basher, live only a few miles from Mitch Looper "M2C racing" I own 4 Kratons, most are fully built big block powered m2c rigs.

When I originally bought the EXB I was already planning on swapping chassis and my standard bash proof setup. But the longer I thought about it the more I wanted to experience the truck in stock form then as I bent or broke parts I throw on parts I consider bombproof. Within reason that is.

So the first thing I did was throw in a Max6 and a few different 4092 motors I had laying around then completely went through all 3 diffs and getting a better understanding for them. The rear diff was properly shimmed and I added 3 lsd plates per side without the locking discs. I went 60k Front , 200k Center and 20k Rear with the modified open setup. This setup keeps it open and works amazingly. I actually prefer the handling over my v4's. My setup has been proven to literally be bullet proof so far. Im also know to be very hard on my diffs, I'm not afraid to self right the truck. I break pins all the time in my v4's, even with drill blanks. So far the Exb has been flawless. Only broken parts are snapped off wing mount 2.5mm screws. Not a big deal, but I went ahead and added a m2c wing mount support for added strength. And my dive cups are almost completely destroyed yet still are working.

I actually prefer this rig currently to my heavy m2c rigs because of the amount of air control I have without the added chassis weight.

98% of my packs are spent hitting my ramp where I get 30' to 40' of air and 100+ feet on average. I do almost no flat land driving other to the next ramp hit. Thank God for a large back yard. I run several packs everyday. And the EXB chassis is still perfectly straight although completely silver now lol.

I've tried several motor setups so far 4082/2000kv w/18T
4092/1650kv w/21T
4092/1250kv w/24T
4092/1480kv w/23T
4282/ 1650kv w/22T

View attachment 95285
View attachment 95275View attachment 95276View attachment 95277View attachment 95278View attachment 95279View attachment 95280View attachment 95281View attachment 95282
 
Nice! Good to know. I'm in the UK and mine arrives tomorrow. Out of the box all the diffs will be checked and the servo saver tighten.

The servo saver is actually pretty good right out of the box. Definitely better than the v4. I still may add a couple e clips eventually
 
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You definitely got the good out of those drivecups.

Yeah needed to blow off some steam and 20min after posting this one let go on me. Mitch at M2C said he's still 6 weeks away from having some hardened exb cups ready. So I ordered a few stocks for now. Its not a exb issue just part of the game with big power and a heavy trigger finger lol ?
 
Let me start off by saying this truck has met or exceeded all of my expectations so far..

I'm a big air basher, live only a few miles from Mitch Looper "M2C racing" I own 4 Kratons, most are fully built big block powered m2c rigs.

When I originally bought the EXB I was already planning on swapping chassis and my standard bash proof setup. But the longer I thought about it the more I wanted to experience the truck in stock form then as I bent or broke parts I throw on parts I consider bombproof. Within reason that is.

So the first thing I did was throw in a Max6 and a few different 4092 motors I had laying around then completely went through all 3 diffs and getting a better understanding for them. The rear diff was properly shimmed and I added 3 lsd plates per side without the locking discs. I went 60k Front , 200k Center and 20k Rear with the modified open setup. This setup keeps it open and works amazingly. I actually prefer the handling over my v4's. My setup has been proven to literally be bullet proof so far. Im also know to be very hard on my diffs, I'm not afraid to self right the truck. I break pins all the time in my v4's, even with drill blanks. So far the Exb has been flawless. Only broken parts are snapped off wing mount 2.5mm screws. Not a big deal, but I went ahead and added a m2c wing mount support for added strength. And my dive cups are almost completely destroyed yet still are working.

I actually prefer this rig currently to my heavy m2c rigs because of the amount of air control I have without the added chassis weight.

98% of my packs are spent hitting my ramp where I get 30' to 40' of air and 100+ feet on average. I do almost no flat land driving other to the next ramp hit. Thank God for a large back yard. I run several packs everyday. And the EXB chassis is still perfectly straight although completely silver now lol.

I've tried several motor setups so far 4082/2000kv w/18T
4092/1650kv w/21T
4092/1250kv w/24T
4092/1480kv w/23T
4282/ 1650kv w/22T

View attachment 95285
View attachment 95275View attachment 95276View attachment 95277View attachment 95278View attachment 95279View attachment 95280View attachment 95281View attachment 95282
It's always nice to hear positive things about a new release. It's usually pages of people whining and complaining. You definitely have gotten a ton of use out of your EXB. And I feel the same way....have a fully built V3 but wanted something lighter. The air control is amazing. I can stop a rotation on a dime. I really love the way the truck handles and jumps. Thanks for posting your results ???
 
Are your diff inputs looking the same?

Actually thats a good question. They feel solid. No extra movement. The plastic guard actually makes it impossible to tell for sure. Let me pull the rear end apart and see for sure.
It's always nice to hear positive things about a new release. It's usually pages of people whining and complaining. You definitely have gotten a ton of use out of your EXB. And I feel the same way....have a fully built V3 but wanted something lighter. The air control is amazing. I can stop a rotation on a dime. I really love the way the truck handles and jumps. Thanks for posting your results ???

Definitely. ? And I feel we have a good bit in common. Watching your last video blows my mind how your chassis has stayed so mint. After 3 packs my looked 2 years old lol. And our driving environment is very similar. I also agree about the whining and complaining is absurd. If I see another exb diff complaining video I'm going to scream. I can tell you the diffs once shimmed correctly are tanks. I know you didn't add the plates like I did but I've not chipped a tooth or stripped anything and I promise most will not full send the trucks as I do. But with that being said soooo many breakages come from driver error. And the videos I see with the same guy complaining all the time not only can't drive he doesn't full send it and has click bait thumbnails. But acts as a go to source for all your rc needs. Hilarious. Keep up your content Bicketybam ?
 
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I don’t have the first complaint with my EXB. It’s been great for more than 10 packs so far. I’m not a big sender like some because I just don’t have the room to go long. 60 feet or so is all I got but I use every inch I can. It drives so much better than my other Kraton or my talion (which I also love to drive). If it does break I’ll keep grinning and fix it so I can go again!
 
My only minor complaint is the obvious shim issue in the rear diff. I’m not regretting the purchase at all. The standard part shortage on launch day is annoying as always, but that’s part of being an early adopter. All of the other things I’ve broken have been 100% my fault. So far I’m loving it. Just can’t wait to get the stock rear diff back in there. ????
 
And the videos I see with the same guy complaining all the time not only can't drive he doesn't full send it and has click bait thumbnails. But acts as a go to source for all your rc needs.

I'm going to guess that this comment is about me. Well, the only part I can disagree with you is that I think I'm an OK driver.

I promise this one's not a clickbait video... :ROFLMAO:

 
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My only minor complaint is the obvious shim issue in the rear diff. I’m not regretting the purchase at all. The standard part shortage on launch day is annoying as always, but that’s part of being an early adopter. All of the other things I’ve broken have been 100% my fault. So far I’m loving it. Just can’t wait to get the stock rear diff back in there. ????
it's with every launch of a new product that there is a mistake in it or that stocks are not yet up to standard ? nothing new about that..

Now corona does not help either, but no one wants to realize that either.
Because it is only me, me, me, me and the rest can suffocate mentality ?

Every car has something and the problem is now well known unless of course you have been lying under a rock. But in the end you can do something about it regardless of your options ?
So nagging no longer makes sense as a large part does on the forum? just be happy with your new car ?

And the 4v you also have to put in a number of shims in it before it's bulletproof ? but nobody has a problem with that ?????
 
it's with every launch of a new product that there is a mistake in it or that stocks are not yet up to standard ? nothing new about that..

This is true, pretty much every first run of every new car has some kind of manufacturing issue. Manufacturers almost always fix them by the second run, but people focus on the first run because that's what they see/hear. I buy a lot of RC cars, of all types, and probably 80% of the first run of new cars has some kind of problem.

BTW, people think I'm complaining about the EXB, which I get 'cause I make the clickbaity thumbnails, but if you actually watch and listen to the videos or read what I write in this forum, I actually defend Arrma wrt to this problem. JD commented "Great video" on my diff video, which wouldn't happen if I were slamming the truck... in the other videos I drive, I break something, I recorded it, and I simply post it. I don't slam Arrma, I don't slam the EXB, I don't say "this truck is garbage", like you'll hear in other videos, I simply show what happened. That's it.
 
I'm glad the mod you made using the 3 friction plates with no disks has worked! ? That's pretty ingenious - even the designers didn't think to do this ? these gears were clearly designed to run on the plates, so I thought that Arrma would end up having to manufacture specific open diff sun gears

Taking the plates away and just relying on smaller shims that don't even sit flush against the gears was a big oversight and was likely an afterthought. If I ever get an EXB, this is what I'll be doing ?
 
I keep seeing this misconception, so I'm going to explain it.

View the sun gear with the sun on top and the outdrive on the bottom. When you run the disc in the middle (sandwiched in the friction plates), you have three sliding surfaces. You have the bottom of the sun gear sliding against the top of the top friction plate, and then you have each side of the disc sliding against each of the friction plates. Bottom of the top one, and top of the bottom one. That's 3 surfaces.

When you move the disc up against the sun gear, you now have 1 sliding surface. That disc against the top of the stacked friction plates.

If you run 3 friction plates, you still have 1 sliding surface. The bottom of the sun gear against the top friction plate. It's the same as using one disc against the sun gear. It's probably worse to go this route because you'll wear down the bottom of the sun gear rather than the bottom of the disc.
 
I keep seeing this misconception, so I'm going to explain it.

View the sun gear with the sun on top and the outdrive on the bottom. When you run the disc in the middle (sandwiched in the friction plates), you have three sliding surfaces. You have the bottom of the sun gear sliding against the top of the top friction plate, and then you have each side of the disc sliding against each of the friction plates. Bottom of the top one, and top of the bottom one. That's 3 surfaces.

When you move the disc up against the sun gear, you now have 1 sliding surface. That disc against the top of the stacked friction plates.

If you run 3 friction plates, you still have 1 sliding surface. The bottom of the sun gear against the top friction plate. It's the same as using one disc against the sun gear. It's probably worse to go this route because you'll wear down the bottom of the sun gear rather than the bottom of the disc.
I understand this explanation ? I reckon you're right, I think it will wear quicker using no disks, but I don't reckon the wear will be too great in comparison to a setup that includes the disks, i.e. the front and centre... I guess time testing it will tell, but it sounds like @Dscracing1320 has had good luck with it so far... it's outlived his outdrive cups at least ?⚰️
 
I'm glad the mod you made using the 3 friction plates with no disks has worked! ? That's pretty ingenious - even the designers didn't think to do this ? these gears were clearly designed to run on the plates, so I thought that Arrma would end up having to manufacture specific open diff sun gears

Taking the plates away and just relying on smaller shims that don't even sit flush against the gears was a big oversight and was likely an afterthought. If I ever get an EXB, this is what I'll be doing ?

My thoughts exactly ?
I'm going to guess that this comment is about me. Well, the only part I can disagree with you is that I think I'm an OK driver.

I promise this one's not a clickbait video... :ROFLMAO:



You are definitely not the only person doing it. Keep doing what makes you happy. My opinion doesn't mean anything. Just something about a over exaggerated thumbnail. I personally wouldn't want to grow my following on bogus pictures that don't have anything to do with the video. But its kinda like like posting your new video in my used diff thread. Let's see some 100+ foot jumps and some triple back flips and I'll watch it ??
 
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