Big Rock My big rock work in progress

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Oh man that's best news I've heard in a long time. And does it take a full upgrade front end to truly track straight no matter the speed? Seems like it'll track diff at diff speeds
Again, other more expert people will comment but your question sounds very similar to a post I recently started, here - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...high-speeds-off-road.37282/page-2#post-517173

In summary, with a faily light weight truck, its hard to ensure. Thats the downside of having something that is also very durable precisely because its so light.
If you read the thread, you'll see lots of suggestions from bigger wheels that don't balloon as much (as this is one of the main problems with high speed control on the BR) to better shocks that make the car less "bouncy". You'll see that lots of people on this forum use and highly rate the MX28 Proline Badlands but theyre quite an expensive upgrade and changing to Typhon 6S shocks (also pretty pricey) is encouraged. Im doing the latter first, having managed to get some new Typhon shocks from an RC Breaker and will report back when the other required bit arrive (bushes and ball mounts) and they are "on."

A hugely beneficial cheap upgrade is switching to RPM A arms (you need the Typhon 3s BLX versions for the current model Big Rock). They can be hard to come by but place a pre-order and theyll turn up. Its not just because theyre damn near indestructible and A arms are a weak point on Big Rocks but because, unlike the stock arms, they have a second fitment point for your shocks which effectively lowers the height of the truck by a cm or so. This in turn makes it handle better and much less prone to traction rolls. Using Hub extenders which further widen the track can help, too.

Given how much the Big Rock wheelies on full power (unless you feed it in incredibly slowly), perfect traight line handling is going to be a challenge whatever the upgrades applied but you'll soon get used to it. I hear the new Vorteks is very predictable in a straight line at full speed so Im interested to hear what the magic formula is there.
 
Again, other more expert people will comment but your question sounds very similar to a post I recently started, here - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...high-speeds-off-road.37282/page-2#post-517173

In summary, with a faily light weight truck, its hard to ensure. Thats the downside of having something that is also very durable precisely because its so light.
If you read the thread, you'll see lots of suggestions from bigger wheels that don't balloon as much (as this is one of the main problems with high speed control on the BR) to better shocks that make the car less "bouncy". You'll see that lots of people on this forum use and highly rate the MX28 Proline Badlands but theyre quite an expensive upgrade and changing to Typhon 6S shocks (also pretty pricey) is encouraged. Im doing the latter first, having managed to get some new Typhon shocks from an RC Breaker and will report back when the other required bit arrive (bushes and ball mounts) and they are "on."

A hugely beneficial cheap upgrade is switching to RPM A arms (you need the Typhon 3s BLX versions for the current model Big Rock). They can be hard to come by but place a pre-order and theyll turn up. Its not just because theyre damn near indestructible and A arms are a weak point on Big Rocks but because, unlike the stock arms, they have a second fitment point for your shocks which effectively lowers the height of the truck by a cm or so. This in turn makes it handle better and much less prone to traction rolls. Using Hub extenders which further widen the track can help, too.

Given how much the Big Rock wheelies on full power (unless you feed it in incredibly slowly), perfect traight line handling is going to be a challenge whatever the upgrades applied but you'll soon get used to it. I hear the new Vorteks is very predictable in a straight line at full speed so Im interested to hear what the magic formula is there.
Oh man thanks for that. Still a newb learning fast as I can lol. Lots of points there I didnt think about especially the 🎈 of the tires. Duh. In your opinion hows Duratrax mt?
Looks great with the Typhon wing. Im using the Outcast wing.

Looks great with the Typhon wing. Im using the Outcast wing.

View attachment 142283

View attachment 142284
Hey bud did u make the skids, nose piece and bed guards? If not where can I get a set etched with big rock?
 
Oh man thanks for that. Still a newb learning fast as I can lol. Lots of points there I didnt think about especially the 🎈 of the tires. Duh. In your opinion hows Duratrax mt?



Hey bud did u make the skids, nose piece and bed guards? If not where can I get a set etched with big rock?
Quite a few people use Duratrax mt on here so hopefully someone will comment. Ive heard some issues with them unglue-ing but that may be when you run them on 4S or 6S. In terms of the plastic parts, they were kindly made for me by someone on this forum !
 
Quite a few people use Duratrax mt on here so hopefully someone will comment. Ive heard some issues with them unglue-ing but that may be when you run them on 4S or 6S. In terms of the plastic parts, they were kindly made for me by someone on this forum !
Oh those are nice. *If that person sees this I WILL PAY FOR A SET. IN BRIGHT SILVER OR BLACK THAT WAY I CAN CHROME IT*. thanks again
 
I love the roll bar and front bumper...where did you get those? I think the BRCC is one of the best looking Arrmas (Notorious and Infraction too) they make, and I still can't decide between getting that or a new Vorteks. What's the weak point of the BRCC?
 
I love the roll bar and front bumper...where did you get those? I think the BRCC is one of the best looking Arrmas (Notorious and Infraction too) they make, and I still can't decide between getting that or a new Vorteks. What's the weak point of the BRCC?
Hey Wakko. I sent TonyDee a PM to check the part numbers with him as I want to order them, too. He hasnt replied yet but I think they are ARA320605 (bumper) and AR480015 (hoop). The only thing Im not sure about is whether you need a third part to clip the bumper to the bodywork but maybe someone else will advise or TD will respond.
 
Thought I took some. Didn't. When I get home I sure will. I used a razor knife. Put mount on then hold body over it. Ruler a straight line. Cut it. Up to the sliver part at top of sticker. It'll be 1030pm eat. B4 im home ill message with pics.
That didnt make sense. Lol always run a servo saver. Stock servos go out quick. For the jerking.....look and see if u have a rock stuck anywhere. Or if a screw has backed out and rubbing on something. I also haf that prob. Screw that connects linkage to bell crank would back out
 
Sry I got home late. I do parking so I don't leave until the ppl do. Heres those pics. Also I will need a 2mm from bit to be able to screw it down.

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Drill right above the hole on the thick grey plastic. Not on the post itsself
And 1 last thing that I do. I washed with Dawn dish soap then light 100grit sandpapered inside of body then sparayed with bedliner. Alot of ppl do mesh tape abd shoe goo. It reinforces the body with out making it stiff and brittle. 10$
 

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Sry I got home late. I do parking so I don't leave until the ppl do. Heres those pics. Also I will need a 2mm from bit to be able to screw it down.

View attachment 148512

View attachment 148513
Drill right above the hole on the thick grey plastic. Not on the post itsself
And 1 last thing that I do. I washed with Dawn dish soap then light 100grit sandpapered inside of body then sparayed with bedliner. Alot of ppl do mesh tape abd shoe goo. It reinforces the body with out making it stiff and brittle. 10$
Is the body still flexible with the bed liner sprayed on?
 
I didn't like the body sitting the same height as the wing and sitting higher then the front so took a dremmel to the bottom of the body posts and top of the wing mount so the original screw holes lined back up.

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