Kraton My Build, Kraton 12s

[gotnitro]

Hello All,

FNG to the forum but not to RC. Been out of it for a while, used to race nitro truggy/buggy about 10+ years ago. Had a few electrics in the past too, set up and raced a few Mugen E-buggys/truggies so I’m somewhat familiar with E. Currently have nothing but a few FPV drones, looking at the 8s.

My opinion on this MT/Truggy is it looks like someone finally nailed something bashable that would last a few packs.

My question/questions are, money not being any issue, what motor/esc combo with motor mount (links please) would your set up be? My intentions are to buy one of these, rip everything out of it and start over with the proper stuff. I could either be full throttle down the street, over a large dirt pile or full throttle with a different pinion through my neighbors garden. I understand I could do all that stock but thats too easy.. PS, do they make aluminum shock caps for this yet? I don’t see those plastic ones lasting?

 

[Chris Lane]

I may not have the popular vote here on the forum... but I would buy a kit which Arrma doesn't currently offer. That being said a google search with the scale your looking for will give you options. Myself I would look at Kraken Vetka.5 or the FID Dragon Hammer. You'll easily have $5000+++ in either, but they are gas, but could be made electric. Bear in mind you'll need to move 40+lbs if you go electric. . If money really is no option I have a 1/5th scale gas I'll sell ya, its already completely done. Otherwise,

 

[Mr.Duke]

M2C Chassis and Motor Mount
24mm Proline beadlock wheels and tires
Custom hydrodipped body
3060 LMT motor from MGM
TMM 80063-3 ESC

 

[Outcastblxnut]

Money not a issue. Buy um all???

 

[gotnitro]

So I recede.. Didn't know they made motors and ESC's that cost a Marantz 13.2 ATMOS receiver or a marriage.
1) M2C chassis and MM
2) Beadlocks
3)? What's the hot set up for motor and ESC that wont leave me homeless?

I looked into the Vetka.5 last year about this time, after I was done with what I wanted to do to it (RCMAXX'd up) It was over 5G..

 

[Chris Lane]

So I recede.. Didn't know they made motors and ESC's that cost a Marantz 13.2 ATMOS receiver or a marriage.
1) M2C chassis and MM
2) Beadlocks
3)? What's the hot set up for motor and ESC that wont leave me homeless?

I looked into the Vetka.5 last year about this time, after I was done with what I wanted to do to it (RCMAXX'd up) It was over 5G..

Well then you already know what, "If money was no issue" is... I think it would be tough to hit the 5k benchmark on any arrma.
Which RCmax motor did you decide on? Post up some pictures.. the rcmax is a sick big bore motor!

 

[jbhawx]

Hmm...
I’d use the K8S platform. Use ZTW 300 Amp ESC and motor combo.

Replace chassis, braces, and towers with titanium. Build custom dual servo box out of titanium including front, center, and rear diff housings. Replace plastic diff casing in front and rear with aluminum.

Use best servos I can find, and use FID dual servo arm to link them together.

Setup the truck to run 12S. Use trencher tires with custom foam insert to prevent ballooning. Customize wheels out of aluminum using desperado 6 spoke aggressive design.

Use Xmaxx shocks front and rear (cause they are bigger). Heavy duty springs. Aluminum or titanium a-arms front and back. Stainless steel screws throughout.

Custom build input shaft gears, and diff gears for front and rear to increase top end. Custom idler gear and spur gear to increase top end as well.

Pair it with a Spektrum DX6.

 

[gotnitro]

Hmm...
I’d use the K8S platform. Use ZTW 300 Amp ESC and motor combo.

Replace chassis, braces, and towers with titanium. Build custom dual servo box out of titanium including front, center, and rear diff housings. Replace plastic diff casing in front and rear with aluminum.

Use best servos I can find, and use FID dual servo arm to link them together.

Setup the truck to run 12S. Use trencher tires with custom foam insert to prevent ballooning. Customize wheels out of aluminum using desperado 6 spoke aggressive design.

Use Xmaxx shocks front and rear (cause they are bigger). Heavy duty springs. Aluminum or titanium a-arms front and back. Stainless steel screws throughout.

Custom build input shaft gears, and diff gears for front and rear to increase top end. Custom idler gear and spur gear to increase top end as well.

Pair it with a Spektrum DX6.

Looked up that motor and ESC, more like it on pricing.
Replacing the chassis brace, towers, custom servo box, nah.. Need a point of weakness. Need something to break that is cheap and weaker like plastic in a bad crash.
Spektrum 777oz @8.4 should suffice.
That ESC and motor you recommended can handle a 12s.
Alu a-arms, again, need a point of weakness.
I would never put anything traxsucks on anything.
Idle gear and spur gear? It's got a center diff..
DX6?

 

[Jimbobjr]

Maybe add gold and diamonds...

 

[gotnitro]

I now remember why I never got involved in RC forums before. I've won plenty of A-mains by trial and error, practice, more trial and error plus listening and reading. I've probably forgotten more about RC than most know. 20+ years into it and 10 off, just needed some direction. Thanks for your input.

 

[jbhawx]

Looked up that motor and ESC, more like it on pricing.
Replacing the chassis brace, towers, custom servo box, nah.. Need a point of weakness. Need something to break that is cheap and weaker like plastic in a bad crash.
Spektrum 777oz @8.4 should suffice.
That ESC and motor you recommended can handle a 12s.
Alu a-arms, again, need a point of weakness.
I would never put anything traxsucks on anything.
Idle gear and spur gear? It's got a center diff..
DX6?

There may be better motors out there. The motor that the FID Dragon Hammer runs is far beefier than the combo motor.

 

[Chris Lane]

I now remember why I never got involved in RC forums before. I've won plenty of A-mains by trial and error, practice, more trial and error plus listening and reading. I've probably forgotten more about RC than most know. 20+ years into it and 10 off, just needed some direction. Thanks for your input.

With you're experience and knowledge in the hobby ... this isn't the "if money was no issue" brand to build. ARRMA makes an amazing RC. However only 10 years out of the hobby , nothing has changed much. I posted above, curious which Rcmax motor you went with/researched. Yes I'm calling your bluff, I would expect anyone that has "forgotten more about RC than most know". "20+years into it and 10 off". You did research the Kraken Vekta.5 and RCMAXX motor last year. Do a simple google search for your very basic questions. You have 4 messages and you expect people to provide you with links? You could easily do a search In this forum for those answers. Not to be harsh, but we all earn are keep around here. This is a community that welcomes you whole heartily. At this point (to me) you haven't even established yourself as credible Admittedly I seem to be the most sceptic about new members flapping their chops about what they do and do not know. Post some pictures, share your infinite knowledge, and do a search in the forum. Lastly, why waste your money buying something that your going to strip down to the chassis and rebuild? Buy a true 1/5th scale roller and build it from scratch with all the components you want. I mentioned viable options in my post above.

 

[gotnitro]

We'll, last year about this time I looked at the Vetka, installing a 65 with all the upgrades from Detroit RC (John) using all RCmaxx aluminum (about $4500). Then I looked into the outlaw hybrid with a 71, upgraded race clutch and $300 pipe in it (about 6.5k after all said and done) Then, I decided to build a bar stool go cart with a harbor freight predator 212 in it for about $800. I ended up dumping another 2k into my Streetglide as well. Posting pictures from 10 years ago would require me finding an old external hard drive and why? You want to see the original MBX5-6? Original Losi-8 buggy/truggy? Me TQ'd on the podium holding 1/8 buggies in a Arrma forum? Why buy something and strip it down to rebuild it? Have to be honest with that one.. It's the only way to learn an RC. I enjoy building them more that driving them believe it or not. Its satisfying and relaxing therapy for me. So, to answer your question on if I expected people to post links, honestly no. BUT, I thought RC forums might have changed a bit, I was sadly mistaken. I've poked around in here reading a bit before posting, as most would agree its a pain in the eyeball to read through threads vs. simply posting a new thread. Maybe I shouldn't have titled it money no issue? Sure!.. I've seen some recent vid posted in here, seen lots of bad gear mesh clearly hearable, not going to be a "noob" in a forum and say it! I'd have gotten flamed out of that thread! Back in the day, guys helped guys out in this hobby off the bat. I feel like today (and 10 years ago) there is some kind of underlying layer of hate still or "I did the research and I'm not going to share" type attitude. Hey, that's all fine and dandy. If I decide to go buy an 8s, I'll just have to do that too. No worries brother!

 

[Chris Lane]

We'll, last year about this time I looked at the Vetka, installing a 65 with all the upgrades from Detroit RC (John) using all RCmaxx aluminum (about $4500). Then I looked into the outlaw hybrid with a 71, upgraded race clutch and $300 pipe in it (about 6.5k after all said and done) Then, I decided to build a bar stool go cart with a harbor freight predator 212 in it for about $800. I ended up dumping another 2k into my Streetglide as well. Posting pictures from 10 years ago would require me finding an old external hard drive and why? You want to see the original MBX5-6? Original Losi-8 buggy/truggy? Me TQ'd on the podium holding 1/8 buggies in a Arrma forum? Why buy something and strip it down to rebuild it? Have to be honest with that one.. It's the only way to learn an RC. I enjoy building them more that driving them believe it or not. Its satisfying and relaxing therapy for me. So, to answer your question on if I expected people to post links, honestly no. BUT, I thought RC forums might have changed a bit, I was sadly mistaken. I've poked around in here reading a bit before posting, as most would agree its a pain in the eyeball to read through threads vs. simply posting a new thread. Maybe I shouldn't have titled it money no issue? Sure!.. I've seen some recent vid posted in here, seen lots of bad gear mesh clearly hearable, not going to be a "noob" in a forum and say it! I'd have gotten flamed out of that thread! Back in the day, guys helped guys out in this hobby off the bat. I feel like today (and 10 years ago) there is some kind of underlying layer of hate still or "I did the research and I'm not going to share" type attitude. Hey, that's all fine and dandy. If I decide to go buy an 8s, I'll just have to do that too. No worries brother!

I'd be into that barstool gocart.

 

[gotnitro]

I'd be into that barstool gocart.

It's for sale.. Thing goes 46 MPH and its still governed..

Got the 8, took most of the gaudy stickers off of it. Thing took up almost my entire work bench in the cave. We'll see what happens next.

 

[Chris Lane]

It's for sale.. Thing goes 46 MPH and its still governed..

Got the 8, took most of the gaudy stickers off of it. Thing took up almost my entire work bench in the cave. We'll see what happens next.



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Where are you at? I might be interested. If not share your build info.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Mamba monster 2 extreme out of an xo-1 and an xo-1 motor (that’s the only way to get a “sorta” castle 1717 sized motor that’s not a counterfeit)

 

[gotnitro]

Chicago area. It was a stool cart kit BUT it took lots of extra work. They always say its a fit together and drive kit but that's not how it worked. Had to get 2-1/2 inch aluminum stock, measure, cut, drill to fit under the 212 pred engine in there using the torque converter, grind and smooth out the bottom of the TC to clear the frame, ordered new bars, grips, doughnuts for the grips, throttle and cable, drilling new holes in brake brackets to make it work, MIG weld the front steering column, grind down, rust proof spray bed liner on welds ETC.. Just lots of the extra nonsense to make it work. Kinda like RC.. It's got 2-1/2 inch solid stainless steel shaft, will wheelie my 6-1 220lb butt down the road.

On to the 8S, took the rear end off, took the rear diff out, cleaned out all the bearings, added speed cream (you boarders know what that is) added my lightning grease to the ring and pinion, put back together. What a huge difference in the way it sounds spinning the gears after that! On to the rest of the bearings today. Diffs and fluids will come once I figure out what mill and ESC I'm going to install and depending on where/how its unloading after that.

I'm not in love with the ride height or re-bound either in 70 degree temps, I might pull the shocks off and experiment with different springs, oil and pistons once available. (EDIT: You must put your batteries in the truck before adjusting ride height) Spring pre-load all the way out is still too high for me. Might even drill an extra hole in the piston and go heavier oil depending on rebound/ride height. I'll be setting this up as close as I can to my old 1/8th Truggy set up sheets. Setting up for race tracks you want your bones flush with the ground or just a tad under. Bones are stronger flush and wont tear up your cups as fast. Will I be racing it? NO. Will I be bashing it and pulling/kicking huge rocks off jumps with it, most likely not. Just going to tear through grass I don't own. Balancing the wheels will get done too.. (I have a wheel balancer I used to balance the bar stool cart wheels) what a HUGE difference that made let me tell ya! My 10th and 1/8 balancer is WAY too small for 8S wheels..

 

[Jimbobjr]

I now remember why I never got involved in RC forums before. I've won plenty of A-mains by trial and error, practice, more trial and error plus listening and reading. I've probably forgotten more about RC than most know. 20+ years into it and 10 off, just needed some direction. Thanks for your input.

Sorry Buddy, I was just kidding around, hang out here a while. Some people even like me. I’m an acquired taste.

For the build (no kidding) maybe wait a little while for some better electrics. As the popularity of the big cheapish electric trucks increase, more will be made/sold and more esc manufacturers will support them.

I’m just going with the stock esc and bought a Hobbystar 5692 1120kv because the stock motor is underpowered. If the esc does not last I will get a Max5. I would love to spend more for better but for the k8s I think the better is yet to come.

Love the pics above...keep them coming.

 

[gotnitro]

Sorry Buddy, I was just kidding around, hang out here a while. Some people even like me. I’m an acquired taste.

For the build (no kidding) maybe wait a little while for some better electrics. As the popularity of the big cheapish electric trucks increase, more will be made/sold and more esc manufacturers will support them.

I’m just going with the stock esc and bought a Hobbystar 5692 1120kv because the stock motor is underpowered. If the esc does not last I will get a Max5. I would love to spend more for better but for the k8s I think the better is yet to come.

Love the pics above...keep them coming.

No worries! I got a little butthurt is all..

Made some more progress, split the CD and did my stuff. Pulled the stock servo, ESC and mill. Have an S9020 on order, didn't feel like messing with splines or servo savers.. I'll end up with something electric here soon. Hardest part so far was removing the ESC from the plastic cover, they used some concrete servo tape on it from the factory. That and removing the screws out of the motor mount... I think they used CA on the mount screws.. I also noticed there could be some more steering to be had by dremeling some carrier material away next to the pivot balls. Looks to be another 1/4 inch or so before the wheel hits the A-arm. We'll see!