Kraton My Build Thread - Kraton 6s V5

[SaltyLocal]

Teared down my K6s V5 this evening and decided I better start a build thread before I get to far along. Nothing crazy or over the top, but being this is my first hobby grade RC, I feel I’m slowly getting it (kudos to all you helpful members).

Mid summer of this year, I purchased my son a Big Rock v3 for his 6th Birthday. Since I couldn’t leave him to bash alone , I figured it’d only be fair to purchase a big dad toy! After about 10 packs through and adding several “durability” parts to the exterior (listed below), I decided to start adding some under-the-hood upgrades.

Exterior additions:
- T-Bone Racing wheelie bar and rear skid plate
- RPM front bumper
- RPM wing mount
- Outcast 6s taller side skirts
- 3D printed roof and hood guards
- Two coats of Clear Rubber Flex sealant on inner body

Interior/Suspension:
- stock Spektrum motor, receiver and ESC
- Yeah Racing blue heatsink and dual 30mm fans (black/silver braid wire shields and heat-shrink added)
- Saxon SB2273 (estimated 388kg)
- Hot Racing aluminum servo mount
- Hot Racing bellcrank linkage with bearings
- Hot Racing 25t servo arm
- Hot Racing servo saver tube with clamping nut
- Team Associated diff fluid, F=60k, C=500k, R=20k

Started tear down this past weekend and let the diffs drain their stock fluid over night. Added the above TA fluids this evening and I’ll check levels (not sure exactly where to top them off at if anyone can suggest) after work tomorrow.

Here are a few pics from this evening.

Do these fluid levels look ok?

Does it matter which side the diff gasket is attached to prior to screwing back together?

Rear outside shim was bent like this when I removed it. How’d that happen?? Maybe it occurred during extraction from its’ case?

Steering project for later this week. To be continued…

Tools:
MIPs hex drivers
Dynamite socket drivers
Loctite (blue)
White grease (@WoodiE too thread recommendation)
- Craftsman 6 gallon air compressor and attachments (had to after going through 5+ cans of canned air)
- 3D printed tool stands for storage

*** To this day, I’m really not sure why my Wife is constantly complaining that we’re in so much debt. #Facts

Yet, another question; when I removed all three diffs from their cups, they were caked with thick grease. Is there a proper way of adding grease back into the cups, since I wiped off all the grease from the outside of the diffs themselves? Do I just use the white grease that was recommended in @WoodiE tool thread?

* edited typos

 

[TN-RC]

Looks nice going to do this to my Felony soon.

 

[Hammer Down]

not sure exactly where to top them off at

Enough to cover the cross pins, remember to leave enough room for the sun gear.

Does it matter which side the diff gasket is attached to prior to screwing back together?

No

Rear outside shim was bent like this when I removed it. How’d that happen?? Maybe it occurred during extraction from its’ case?

The blockhead at the factory probably didn’t seat it properly and mashed the cover on it…

Yet, another question; when I removed all three diffs from their cups, they were caked with thick grease. Is there a proper way of adding grease back into the cups, since I wiped off all the grease from the outside of the diffs themselves? Do I just use the white grease that was recommended in @WoodiE tool thread?

After you reinstall the diff, lightly coat the ring gear with said grease whilst spinning it, before installing the cover.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Enough to cover the cross pins, remember to leave enough room for the sun gear.


No

The blockhead at the factory probably didn’t seat it properly and mashed the cover on it…

After you reinstall the diff, lightly coat the ring gear with said grease whilst spinning it, before installing the cover.

Thank you so much @Hammer Down ! I was reading that some people use boat or marine type grease. I’m taking it that the white lithium grease will do the job?

I forgot to mention that I did add a diff shim to the rear, since the stock shim was bent. I placed it on the outside of the outer bearing. Is this correct and is one shim enough (pictured)?

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Thank you so much @Hammer Down ! I was reading that some people use boat or marine type grease. I’m taking it that the white lithium grease will do the job?

I forgot to mention that I did add a diff shim to the rear, since the stock shim was bent. I placed it on the outside of the outer bearing. Is this correct and is one shim enough (pictured)?

View attachment 166675

Whether one shim is enough or not depends on your rig. I would just leave one shim until you have a few hard packs through it, then check the diff mesh.

White lithium grease will work fine. I sue red n tacky, but just cause it's what I got on hand.

 

[Hammer Down]

Thank you so much @Hammer Down ! I was reading that some people use boat or marine type grease. I’m taking it that the white lithium grease will do the job?

I forgot to mention that I did add a diff shim to the rear, since the stock shim was bent. I placed it on the outside of the outer bearing. Is this correct and is one shim enough (pictured)?

View attachment 166675

That grease will be fine, one shim is probably ok but check the backlash after installing, if it’s seems excessive you can add more. Also yes to the shim placement, it fits between the outside of the outdrive bearing and the diff housing/bulkhead.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Enough to cover the cross pins, remember to leave enough room for the sun gear.


No

The blockhead at the factory probably didn’t seat it properly and mashed the cover on it…

After you reinstall the diff, lightly coat the ring gear with said grease whilst spinning it, before installing the cover.

@Hammer Down ,regarding adding grease to the diff housings, you said to “lightly coat the ring gear with said grease whilst spinning it”. I’m taking it the way Arrma had TONS of yellow grease caked in there was not correct? Also, “ring gear”; is that the large main gear itself and around the main gear diff cylinder, correct?

 

[Slim64684]

Personally I just use my finger to apply grease to the ring gear, spin the diff a little and put more on until I make it all the way around. Imo kinda hard to get too much grease unless you pack the bulkhead full of it.


Ring gear

 

[SaltyLocal]

Personally I just use my finger to apply grease to the ring gear, spin the diff a little and put more on until I make it all the way around. Imo kinda hard to get too much grease unless you pack the bulkhead full of it.


Ring gearView attachment 166757

Thank you @Slim64684 ! I’m talking about how to add the grease to the front and rear diff housings. How about the outside of the center diff? Does it get any external grease?

 

[Jon NC RC]

Thank you so much @Hammer Down ! I was reading that some people use boat or marine type grease. I’m taking it that the white lithium grease will do the job?

I forgot to mention that I did add a diff shim to the rear, since the stock shim was bent. I placed it on the outside of the outer bearing. Is this correct and is one shim enough (pictured)?

View attachment 166675

Good job! Good documentation and questions!

I do have some marine grease, and the one benefit of it is that it has properties that are extra helpful to repel water. I have used white lithium grease myself and it just the job well. Pick your poison, it looks like there is no wrong answer between those two, imo

 

[SaltyLocal]

How does my rear diff look? Enough Red n tacky? Decided to grab some Lucas on my way home.

and how about the front? Look OK? Before adding the diffs back in, I lightly coated the main front and rear gears and diff housing.

shims

 

[SaltyLocal]

Shoot! I can’t remember which is the front and back. They look so similar and I should’ve sharpy labeled them.

 

[Slim64684]

Shims are all a "feel" thing. I shoot for no side to side movement making sure there is no binding either.

As far as grease goes, just run a couple packs and double check.

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Do not grease the center diff. That ring gear is also called a crown gear depending in who you're talking to. Also, I don't think that the covers matter front and rear. The covers are exactly the same, the only thing that might be different is the sway bars, but that's easy to swap. Just double check the exploded diagram for the sway bars.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Do not grease the center diff. That ring gear is also called a crown gear depending in who you're talking to. Also, I don't think that the covers matter front and rear. The covers are exactly the same, the only thing that might be different is the sway bars, but that's easy to swap. Just double check the exploded diagram for the sway bars.

Yup, same part numbers on the sway bars and covers. I have to remember that golden exploded diagram! Thanks for the reminder and thank you everyone for your awesome guidance and reassurance! Some call this a hobby; it’s becoming an obsession!

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Yup, same part numbers on the sway bars and covers. I have to remember that golden exploded diagram! Thanks for the reminder and thank you everyone for your awesome guidance and reassurance! Some call this a hobby; it’s becoming an obsession!

An obsession indeed. Once I get a MEXB I'll have the best trio or arrma vehicles imo. After that I may start trying boats or maybe a Talion EXB. Just don't tell the gf.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Between my sons Big Rock and this Kraton, my pockets are empty for a bit. Although, an 8s is tempting

 

[SaltyLocal]

Rebuild not going so well. I got the HR bellcrank and servo saver tube/clamp reinstalled with bearings, however, once put back into the car, the side-to-side movement of the entire front driveshaft is extremely tighter than expected. Before I changed anything on the front end, the front drivetrain moved effortlessly. I tried loosening the spring tension on the servo saver and even loosened the two hex screws going into the post that the bellcrank sits on, but neither really helped. Any idea?

Issue #2: the HR servo arm hits the new Saxon servo?? I’m also hoping I ran the ESC and servo wiring to the receiver properly?? (See pictures)

Issue #3: Pissed about this one…the so called “Yeah Racing” (more like “No Racing”) heatsink is not even close to properly fitting. Fully tightened, the heatsink freely flops around. Is there a trick to this one because I’ve bent, squeezed and tightened the four bolts to the extreme and it is simply to big. Per Horizon Hobby, this heatsink would fit. So upset.

 

[badpotato3]

Rebuild not going so well. I got the HR bellcrank and servo saver tube/clamp reinstalled with bearings, however, once put back into the car, the side-to-side movement of the entire front driveshaft is extremely tighter than expected. Before I changed anything on the front end, the front drivetrain moved effortlessly. I tried loosening the spring tension on the servo saver and even loosened the two hex screws going into the post that the bellcrank sits on, but neither really helped. Any idea?
View attachment 166957View attachment 166958View attachment 166959View attachment 166960
View attachment 166968View attachment 166969View attachment 166970View attachment 166971
Issue #2: the HR servo arm hits the new Saxon servo?? I’m also hoping I ran the ESC and servo wiring to the receiver properly?? (See pictures)

Issue #3: Pissed about this one…the so called “Yeah Racing” (more like “No Racing”) heatsink is not even close to properly fitting. Fully tightened, the heatsink freely flops around. Is there a trick to this one because I’ve bent, squeezed and tightened the four bolts to the extreme and it is simply to big. Per Horizon Hobby, this heatsink would fit. So upset.
View attachment 166961View attachment 166962

I used these thermal pads under the heatsink and it tightens up nicely.

 

[Sargent_Horse]

I used these thermal pads under the heatsink and it tightens up nicely.

Issue #3 is fixed with thermal pads (adhesive on 1 side) or even aluminum foil folded on itself.

Issue #2 Savox makes taller servos usually I think. Use a longer screw where the HR fixed link attaches to the servo saver arm and put like 2-3mm worth of spacers between the link and ss arm to raise the link up. Wiring looks fine.

Issue #1 Not sure I understand the issue here? Are you having a hard time spinning the wheels? Or turning the steering?