Kraton My Build Thread - Kraton 6s V5

[SaltyLocal]

Issue #3 is fixed with thermal pads (adhesive on 1 side) or even aluminum foil folded on itself.

Issue #2 Savox makes taller servos usually I think. Use a longer screw where the HR fixed link attaches to the servo saver arm and put like 2-3mm worth of spacers between the link and ss arm to raise the link up. Wiring looks fine.

Issue #1 Not sure I understand the issue here? Are you having a hard time spinning the wheels? Or turning the steering?

Yes, the steering feels extremely tighter than stock. Normal? Also, when I reattached the bolt to SS, it took all my strength to push the tension spring to even get the bolt semi-threaded. I feel it’s so tight that the threads aren’t lining up and now have to use a wrench to adjust. Isn’t it suppose to easily adjust by hand?

I used these thermal pads under the heatsink and it tightens up nicely.

Will any thermal pads do and do I wrap the entire motor with them?

 

[SaltyLocal]

Yes, the steering feels extremely tighter than stock. Normal? Also, when I reattached the bolt to SS, it took all my strength to push the tension spring to even get the bolt semi-threaded. I feel it’s so tight that the threads aren’t lining up and now have to use a wrench to adjust. Isn’t it suppose to easily adjust by hand?
View attachment 167022

Will any thermal pads do and do I wrap the entire motor with them?

Does anyone know if this bolt should be easily adjustable and then locked down with the gromut screw? The only way, as of now, to adjust the bolt while in the vehicle is by using pliers to turn it and then retightening the set bolt.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Can I plug this yeah racing two prong fan into the receivers aux1 three prong? If not, any suggestions?

I have two fans and I was going to run one to the ESC open port and the other to that receiver aux1 port.

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Can I plug this yeah racing two prong fan into the receivers aux1 three prong? If not, any suggestions?

View attachment 167123

I have two fans and I was going to run one to the ESC open port and the other to that receiver aux1 port. View attachment 167124

Get a y splitter JST or Futaba plug off amazon and run both fans off of one port. If you don't want to wait for the plug, then yes, you are fine to run one of the fans off the AUX port.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Get a y splitter JST or Futaba plug off amazon and run both fans off of one port. If you don't want to wait for the plug, then yes, you are fine to run one of the fans off the AUX port.

Even though the fan is a two prong JST and the receiver is a three port? Is it safe?

2-2 prong to ESC three prong? Are these what you were referring to…

Acekeeps JR Y-Harness Splitter (1 Male to 2 Female) and JR to JST Servo Extension Cable Wire Male Female for RC Car Plane Drone (3-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QMKTTCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8QP0YBBNE6D2K6ENJ2DK

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Even though the fan is a two prong JST and the receiver is a three port? Is it safe?

2-2 prong to ESC three prong? Are these what you were referring to…

Acekeeps JR Y-Harness Splitter (1 Male to 2 Female) and JR to JST Servo Extension Cable Wire Male Female for RC Car Plane Drone (3-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QMKTTCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8QP0YBBNE6D2K6ENJ2DK

Yes, that splitter should work. It does not have to be specifically 2 to 3 wire. Think of it like this. Of the 3 wires, one is pos, one is neg, the third wire is a signal wire. Fans don't need the signal wire so there is nothing wrong with just using the pos and neg for power. Nothing will be damaged by not using the signal wire.

In fact, if you unplug that extra port on the ESC that is powering your ESC fan and motor fans, you'll see its a 3 prong port just like on the receiver.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Yes, that splitter should work. It does not have to be specifically 2 to 3 wire. Think of it like this. Of the 3 wires, one is pos, one is neg, the third wire is a signal wire. Fans don't need the signal wire so there is nothing wrong with just using the pos and neg for power. Nothing will be damaged by not using the signal wire.

In fact, if you unplug that extra port on the ESC that is powering your ESC fan and motor fans, you'll see its a 3 prong port just like on the receiver.

I can tell you’ve been in the hobby for sometime! Again, thank you @Sargent_Horse !

 

[Sargent_Horse]

I can tell you’ve been in the hobby for sometime! Again, thank you @Sargent_Horse !

Haha, I got my Kraton in April and my Infraction only a month ago. But this forum has so many helpful members and so much information that it is hard not to learn! Plus, I suck at driving and absolutely abuse my Kraton. Bent the stock towers in less than a month.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Burning smell as soon as I plugged everything back in, set the ST to middle, and was about to set endpoints but then a burning almost plastic smell. Any suggestions?

The SR315 has the new servo in STR, ESC in THR, and one fan using the left two pins (pin closest to “SR315 decal” is not in use. OK?

I’m going to unplug both fans and see if the servo moves front tires and if so attempt to set endpoints.

EDIT: the fans were the culprit of the burning smell, once unplugged no more smell. So I guess I’ll have to purchase the JST Y-splitter that @Sargent_Horse recommended.

BUT…once I turn on the transmitter (insuring all knobs are centered) and then the car, the wheels don’t move and stay fully turned to the right. If I turn the wheel full left, the wheels are then centered. I tried setting endpoints and they both are all ready fully turned, left and right. Any suggestions please?

 

[Gctacker]

It looks like you plugged you fans in backwards, there is a little s, + and -, on the receiver black goes to - red to +.

Edit:
To your second question did you power on the servo first so it was centered before connecting the horn?

 

[SaltyLocal]

It looks like you plugged you fans in backwards, there is a little s, + and -, on the receiver black goes to - red to +.

Edit:
To your second question did you power on the servo first so it was centered before connecting the horn?

I did not know I needed to power on servo before attaching horn. I thought I had to have the arm connected and then power on to center.

It looks like you plugged you fans in backwards, there is a little s, + and -, on the receiver black goes to - red to +.

Edit:
To your second question did you power on the servo first so it was centered before connecting the horn?

How do I “center the servo” without the arm on? Can I still do that by undoing the arm and powering it back on? Then reconnect horn and set endpoints??? Sorry, I’m still a total noob!

 

[Gctacker]

Yeah, disconnect the arm and power the transmitter (With all steering trims/adjustments at 0) on then your esc. Once its fully booted up the servo should go to its centered position, then you can connect your servo horn with the wheels as close to centered as you can get them. After you got it all tightened down it should be easy to set the endpoints then.

I'm still new too, just spent many hours fighting with my car to consistently go straight.

Good luck with the finishing touches.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Well I did as @Gctacker said and disconnected the servo arm from the servo, centered wheels and powered on the ESC but now the wheels only turn to the left. The servo continues to “whine” as if it’s totally stressed. Bad servo? I’m at a loss. Hopefully I have everything plugged in correctly (disconnected the fans cause they smell like their burning; even after I swapped the + and -. I’m honestly at a loss and ready to pay someone to fix it. I should’ve left it alone.

Also, what are the abbreviations on the receiver: STR, THR, aux1 and batt. I’m assuming steering, throttle or ESC, auxiliary and battery??

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Well I did as @Gctacker said and disconnected the servo arm from the servo, centered wheels and powered on the ESC but now the wheels only turn to the left. The servo continues to “whine” as if it’s totally stressed. Bad servo? I’m at a loss. Hopefully I have everything plugged in correctly (disconnected the fans cause they smell like their burning; even after I swapped the + and -. I’m honestly at a loss and ready to pay someone to fix it. I should’ve left it alone.

View attachment 167271

Also, what are the abbreviations on the receiver: STR, THR, aux1 and batt. I’m assuming steering, throttle or ESC, auxiliary and battery??

Steering, throttle, auxiliary (this port can control things like servos, lights, etc), battery (idk what this one does, but it's usually used to power lights etc.).

Fans may be damaged from the incorrect wiring, but I wouldn't think so if they are still running. Work OK off the extra ESC port?

Is that a Savox servo? If so, the whine is normal for them. They are quite loud and almost always making that noise AFAIK.

Take the horn off and either factory reset or adjust the end points on your TX until its centered (at least roughly). If you set the end points on your TX while the servo was not centered, then the left issue may be a result of that. After a TX reset, put the horn back on and try again to set your endpoints.

 

[SaltyLocal]

Steering, throttle, auxiliary (this port can control things like servos, lights, etc), battery (idk what this one does, but it's usually used to power lights etc.).

Fans may be damaged from the incorrect wiring, but I wouldn't think so if they are still running. Work OK off the extra ESC port?

Is that a Savox servo? If so, the whine is normal for them. They are quite loud and almost always making that noise AFAIK.

Take the horn off and either factory reset or adjust the end points on your TX until its centered (at least roughly). If you set the end points on your TX while the servo was not centered, then the left issue may be a result of that. After a TX reset, put the horn back on and try again to set your endpoints.

Can you please inform me how to “reset the tx “?

Disregard: I found a video on how to factory reset the TX. It is a Saxon and I was never able to set the endpoints because the servo was not allowing the wheels to turn fully to the right, and then after disconnecting the servo arm, straightening the wheels by hand the best I could, turned on ESC, then I powered off all, then I reconnect arm but then wheels wouldn’t turn to the left. At a complete loss.

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Can you please inform me how to “reset the tx “?

Disregard: I found a video on how to factory reset the TX. It is a Saxon and I was never able to set the endpoints because the servo was not allowing the wheels to turn fully to the right, and then after disconnecting the servo arm, straightening the wheels by hand the best I could, turned on ESC, then I powered off all, then I reconnect arm but then wheels wouldn’t turn to the left. At a complete loss.

Does the servo seem to work OK when nothing is connected to it? Ensure your steering trim is straight. Another trouble shooting option would be to re-bind and calibrate the TX/RX that way you can rule out an input issue. When you turn on the ESC with the arm disconnected give it some steering input and make sure that the servo is turning the correct directions (CCW for right and CW for left).

Don't give up! RC can be frustrating, but eventually you'll get the hang of it. We are here to help!

 

[SaltyLocal]

Does the servo seem to work OK when nothing is connected to it? Ensure your steering trim is straight. Another trouble shooting option would be to re-bind and calibrate the TX/RX that way you can rule out an input issue. When you turn on the ESC with the arm disconnected give it some steering input and make sure that the servo is turning the correct directions (CCW for right and CW for left).

Don't give up! RC can be frustrating, but eventually you'll get the hang of it. We are here to help!

Hi @Sargent_Horse wgat do you mean by “CCW for right and CW for left”? Also, to rebind and calibrate the TX/RX, do I just do this…

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Hi @Sargent_Horse wgat do you mean by “CCW for right and CW for left”? Also, to rebind and calibrate the TX/RX, do I just do this…

So if you watch the servo with nothing connected to it, when you apply left input the servo spline (the bit you attach the horn to) should rotate clockwise and with right input should spin counterclockwise. Just trying to make sure its rotating correctly.

I'll make a video from beginning to end of what to try here shortly that way you can point out exactly where something is going wrong. Let me get my Kraton down and apart.

 

[SaltyLocal]

So if you watch the servo with nothing connected to it, when you apply left input the servo spline (the bit you attach the horn to) should rotate clockwise and with right input should spin counterclockwise. Just trying to make sure its rotating correctly.

I'll make a video from beginning to end of what to try here shortly that way you can point out exactly where something is going wrong. Let me get my Kraton down and apart.

Man, you’re a God send! I’m so confused as to why the servo is fully locked in left and then only turns to the right, but the front wheels are then only centered when turned full right, wheels never make it full right. This is after removing the horn, centering wheels and tx, powering on tx and ESC, servo centers but the above is what happens.

 

[Sargent_Horse]

Man, you’re a God send! I’m so confused as to why the servo is fully locked in left and then only turns to the right, but the front wheels are then only centered when turned full right, wheels never make it full right. This is after removing the horn, centering wheels and tx, powering on tx and ESC, servo centers but the above is what happens.

Alright, its an awful video as I am making it quickly before work on my phone, but it should give you a general idea of what everything looks like when working correctly. I started the video with showing you factory reset, binding, etc. But check around the 2:53 mark to see if your servo is acting the same way as mine is FIRST, then go through the other steps to see if any of it helps. Also, you will be manipulating the TX a lot so probably a good idea to have your motor wires disconnected so you don't drive it off your workspace like I almost did with mine. Just keep in mind that when your motor wires are disconnected it wont make the loud clicking noise on start up (that's from the motor pinion) and will just flash the green lights.

Link:

I hope this helps. Reply with what isn't matching up for you or with any questions.