Kraton My first Arrma...

[83N]

After scratching around, looking for a used roller or RTR, I finally bit the bullet today and pulled the trigger on my first Arrma: The Kraton.

I was really torn between the Talion and the Kraton - I've been reading great things about both for ages and really lusted after something to dip a toe into racing with but RTR and parts supplies in the UK have been steadily drying up (and prices steadily climbing!) for the last 6 or so months. The reason for going for the Kraton is that I prefer the 'look' and I've come to the realisation that with kids I'm unlikely to be able to commit to a racing schedule any time soon... Ugh.

The clincher was chatting to a guy at my LHS about how distribution kinks between Arrma and CML have now been worked out and RTR supplies are ramping up over the coming weeks. They also hinted that prices (on the same BLX v2 trucks) are likely to increase, too. Just because. "Something... something... Brexit" seems to be the tenuous link to price hikes these days!

Anyway, I've managed to source a RED one, new, from Germany for a price I'm happy with.

Now for the 5 day wait...

 

[Bigfella]

Congratulations! You made a good choice. The kraton is one of the best handling rc cars I've ever driven. It's super forgiving and tough as nails. I think the kraton is the best vehicle in the arrma line up. It just super dialed in straight from the box. I love it. Just check that everything is tight and your ready to go. Red loctite on the pinion is a must. Blue unfortunately won't hold very long. Red holds tight and can be easily removed by heating it up with a soldering iron or heat gun. Enjoy your new truck.

This will be a LONG 5 days....... ;-)

 

[83N]

It's arrived! On initial inspection, I'm really happy with it.

Is the massive amount play in the upper front arms normal?

 

[Trickelitrick]

I would say no...check the exploded view in manual and see if those small plastic shims or whatever they are called are all there....i think its 1fat and 2 thin on eacg upper front arm

 

[83N]

I would say no...check the exploded view in manual and see if those small plastic shims or whatever they are called are all there....i think its 1fat and 2 thin on eacg upper front arm

Yeah, all shims present and correct! Not had pivot balls before so don't know what the norms are. With no wheels on, I've got ~4mm front to back travel at the top of the pivot ball hub. Is this as you'd expect?

 

[Trickelitrick]

Personally i would say no.... screw them tighter but not so tight that it takes more force to steer.

 

[Bigfella]

I agree, thats probably too much play. Just go through and check everything and tighten up anything that needs it. Unless something is broken the problem will resolve. The manual says to screw the aluminum red hub nuts flush then back them out 90 degrees. Thats a good starting point.

 

[83N]

Thanks chaps.

 

[dpricenator]

Congrats. I have never had an RC that handles and survives the punishment like this one.

When you have time shim the differentials.

When the budget can handle it, order an aluminum servo mount.

Order a servo, prior to the stock servo dying on you.

If you see shock rods or rod ends, buy them. You will need them.

Bash on.

 

[crankestein]

For those ball ends adjustments I remove the wheels, shocks and servo arm. I start tightening up, move steering left and right, repeat. Right when there is some resistance is when I stop, maybe back off a quarter of a turn.
Some servo savers are too loose from factory so before you swap the servo, check the ss.

Enjoy your ARRMA, the threadlocker on the pinion gear is a must. I made a small little bowl where the pinion nut rests on the motor shaft. Sometimes when the shaft and pinion heat up while running the pinion slides out regardless if its redlocktite, and I said sometimes...

Stock up on a few pinion gears, keep an eye on having the tires glued and check while running. Make sure the spring lower cups are tight as they tend to fly off and ARRMA does not sell them by themselves or they don't have the parts.

Strap ... and yes strap the battery cables AWAY from the spur gear. If you surf around there are horror stories of burned Kratons and many others.

At least for me, if you go 15T or lower use one piece of paper to do the mesh, if 16T or higher at least two pieces of paper for the spur to pinion gap, imo.

 

[Bigfella]

Everything Crankestein said is 100% right. It is surprisingly easy to get your wires chewed up by the drivetrain. Strap them down with zip ties or risk a very bad situation. Checking the tires is imperative. They come unglued fairly often with all this power.

 

[83N]

Thanks again for the warm welcome, guys! Superb info.

Strap the wires down - got it!

I was planning to run a 15T pinion on stock electrics, so great to know about the pinion top tip - cheers Crank.

Currently waiting on a Mugen shim kit for the diffs and a Voltage Hobbies servo mount.

The beast is currently sat, in bits, on my kitchen table. So yeah, the wife is happy.

Didn't realize the servo was so problematic (thought the mount resolved the issue!) so I should grab a Savox 1256TG, right?

Rods and rod ends seem to be like unicorn poop... May look into getting different shocks.

 

[dpricenator]

That Savox will work, but it is not water proof, in case you plan on getting wet. I will say that wet asphalt is super fun. 50 MPH drifts around the Kohls parking lot is a blast.

I got the Savox 1210SG, It has the same torque, I believe, but is waterproof.

Teckno makes shocks that will fit, and would be considered overkill by many. However, the parts are available, should you ever need them. And the shocks are built tougher, but they come at a price. Search the shock threads in the Kraton forum and Outcast forum, and you'll find them.

This is either a slippery slope or a deep rabbit hole, which ever you prefer. Just saying the longer you read the threads on this site, the more money you end up spending on an already expensive toy. Of course my toy does 60MPH, and flies off jumps like Evil K.

 

[Bigfella]

Slippery slope indeed, a rabbit hole of cash. The thing is though, its worth it to me for the Kraton because it is such a unique vehicle. I could have easily gotten an MT410 for the amount of money I've spent on my Kraton. It's pretty much got every upgrade available on it and then some. I will be moving to a leopard motor very soon to complete the project......lol. I'm not really in a hurry though because the stock motor rips so hard.

I can honestly say too that my Kraton drives nothing like a stock one. It is on a whole different level. It corners flat, it slides in a controlled manner, drifting is very predictable, it is stiff where it needs to be and flexible where it needs to be, its super tough, the throttle is smooth and linear, it has incredible acceleration even on 4s, its super reliable (except for the blasted stock shock rods) and it jumps like an absolute beast. My whole driving experience has been greatly enhanced and the fun level increased by 10 fold because of the upgrades.

This forum is indeed an enabler.......but the good kind of enabler.

Teckno makes shocks that will fit, and would be considered overkill by many. However, the parts are available, should you ever need them. And the shocks are built tougher, but they come at a price. Search the shock threads in the Kraton forum and Outcast forum, and you'll find them.

Overkill is underrated

 

[dpricenator]

Don't get me wrong, I am super stoked I have the Teckno Shocks. I have yet to break or bend anything on the new shocks.

 

[Bigfella]

I'm with you all the way on the Tekno shocks. I'm not sorry I bought mine. I really appreciate you for helping to make the decision to buy them much easier. Another couple of days and I will have them on the truck. I'm very excited about them.......and somewhat poorer......lol

 

[83N]

Ok, speaking of enabling:

I've just bought the 1210...

Can you guys give me the parts I'll need for the shocks?

 

[dpricenator]

Here is a link to a thread with a link to a thread. If you buy the full option set up, you will also need the pistons, and the bushings. And you need the Standoffs / mounts. and you have to drill out the shock tower to a 4mm hole.

https://arrmaforum.com/threads/shock-upgrade-for-outcast.2991/