Kraton My journey to better steering (Kraton V4 on grass track)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mnemikk

Fairly New Member
Messages
31
Reaction score
14
Location
Austria
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Hey guys,

TL DR:
Can't steer under load in tight corners, what to do?

I was bashing this summer on 50k 200k 20k 6S 16T Punch on 7 - Great fun, lots of flips and doublebackflips but also hard learning about broken diffs, correct shimming, and so forth. It is my first year in this hobby.

My friends and I built a grass track last week with some tight corners and 2 bigger jumps. (the three small ones are already gone)
Allthough 50k in the front kept my front wheels from spinning I was not able to do hard turns, the radius was just off the rails and I had to steer without gas, almost at crawler speed or brake hard before a corner to be able to steer at all.
So no competition to my friends 3 E-Revos. In fact they still laugh about me buying the Kraton having diff problems and so forth. (Besides I really have to say those Revos had 0 Issues, and outperformed me on every surface, they are still stock except rod stuff)

Anyways, I though my problem is the steering so back to the drawing board:
  • started by upgrading the servo since I don't have a BEC installed I went with 6V 37,5kg (got it recommended in the forum and the chinese rebrand was cheap)
  • different servo horn - found the screw head rubbing on the upper side of the servo, fixed that
  • put bearings instead of those cheap clips on the servo saver top and bottom
  • hardened the V4 Spring on the saver allthough I had no problems with it but read here that this might help
  • tried thinner tire setups than the copperhead 2
Still bad steering.
Do you guys have any tips for a good compromise between light bashing and driving this track?
What else can I try to make the steering better?
Im thinking it could be my diff setup that makes it so hard...I have no other ideas anymore.

Servo horn.png


Servo saver bearings.png


Track.png
 
Add two or three 14mm circlips to the servo saver. I'm really not keen on the non-adjustable servo saver and was lucky enough to find a V3 adjustable one, and use a 17mm nut and thread lock to stop it from loosening

You can try 100k at the front too. I use this in my Noto and it helps so much when cornering under braking and low throttle
 
It's pushing in the corners? I run similar except mine's 100k center and don't have trouble turning, with a weaker servo and v3 saver tightened all the way. It felt more predictable on grass with stock 10-100-10.

Could be diff setup, but you're not exactly running extreme weights. How's your toe on the front? Should be toed out about the same as the rear. You can try and play with the suspension geometry, there's guides out there on the interwebs that tell you which setting does what.
 
I would be careful if the heavier diff fluids. The heavier center is going to pull up the front wheels under power and give you more understeer. The thicker in the rear reduces diff action. The more open the rear, the more it diff steers. I would try taking those two back to stock and give that a few laps. If you have spare diffs, make up a few different levels and take them to the track and give them some hot laps back to back to dial it in.
 
@Yas does the V3 fit in the v4? 100k in the front is way more... Can I still backflip or do I have to higher the rear as well?

Hmm, I will try more circlips.

@nino toe and camber is fine exactly as you described.
I would be careful if the heavier diff fluids. The heavier center is going to pull up the front wheels under power and give you more understeer. The thicker in the rear reduces diff action. The more open the rear, the more it diff steers. I would try taking those two back to stock and give that a few laps. If you have spare diffs, make up a few different levels and take them to the track and give them some hot laps back to back to dial it in.
My problem is oversteer. I thought 50k to 30k back makes the front stay down. That worked great for me at dirty roads and BMX trails. I don't have a full set of diffs on hand but changed the stock to my current for easier backfliping with 4s. Had way too much trouble on 6s and Def. Don't see a point in going 6s around my places.
 
@Yas does the V3 fit in the v4? 100k in the front is way more... Can I still backflip or do I have to higher the rear as well?

Hmm, I will try more circlips.
Yes, the V3 servo saver will fit

Thicker oil in the centre diff allows for easier wheelies and backflips but will wear the rear tyres and rear drivetrain quicker and make it more unpredictable when there's low traction. Thinner oil here helps to stabilize the car on loose surfaces but will bleed power to the front and wear the front tyres and front drivetrain quicker

Thicker oil in the front diff allows you to make tighter corners especially when braking, but can cause understeer when there's low traction through a corner. Thinner oil here allows for more consistent cornering but sacrifices steering for traction

Thicker oil in the rear diff helps with straight line stability, but will make it much more unpredictable when cornering - oversteer with lower traction, understeer with higher traction. Thinner oil here will make cornering far easier but may cause instability at higher speeds
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top