My Kraton 6s build, with TONS of upgrades, hoping for a beast!

[aim4min]

Well, its been a few weeks of driving around my stock Kraton 6s. And, I'm LOVING it. And then things broke. So, I got new Hot Rod Steering Knuckles. And, then again, I broke my left front arm driving into a sign post! Duh! I broke a suspension mount and a t-bone. So, I guess now is as good time as any to install all the upgrades I have for this, and turn it into an UNBREAKABLE BEAST.


This is what I've ordered already, pending install and pending delivery:
Dynamite Powerstage Bundle 6S, with 2x 5000mah 50C reaction batteries
Futuba 3PV with R304SB receiver
JX BLS-HV7132MG 32KG (I haven't seen anyone use this yet on this forum, looks amazing, but won't get it until mid-may)
RPM Front Bumper
2x RPM 81482 Front upper/lower a-arms
RPM Rear a-arms
Fast Eddy Bearings
Hot Racing Servo Mount
Kyosho 96772 Shims 13x16x0.15
Kyosho 5x7mm shims
Mugen Seiki Differential Washer Set
Tekno Orange 80mm springs (For back)
Tekno Orange 90mm springs (for front)
m2c 3103 ARRMA KRATON, OUTCAST NOTORIOUS REAR SHOCK TOWER
m2c 3102 ARRMA KRATON, OUTCAST, NOTORIOUS FRONT SHOCK TOWER
m2c 3035 ARRMA KRATON/OUTCAST/MOJAVE SERIES REAR SHOCK TOWER BRACE (how do I install this??)
m2c 3046 KRATON REAR CENTER BRACE
m2c 3047 ARRMA KRATON/OUTCAST/NOTOROUS,TYPHON FRONT CENTER BRACE (POLISHED)
m2c 3080 ARRMA SHOCK TOWER STAND OFF KIT (how do I install this??)
m2c chassis.
hotrod steering knuckles
arrma hd diff holders


Fluids:
Loctite Blue Stick
White Lithium Grease (what do I use this for?)
Team associated diff fliud 30,000cst (front)
Team associated diff fluid 200,000cst (center)
Team associated diff fluid 60,000cst (back)
Team associated shock oil 80wt (front)
Team associated shock oil 60wt (back)

Tools:
Bondhus 1.5-5mm balldriver screwdrivers
LiPo Bag
Dynamite 5 piece Metric Nut Drivers
3M Scotch double-sided tape (1/2in)
bunch of screws.

So, now I'm off to put it all together, and will include more pics as I go.

 

[Spaz04]

I just put a jx servo in my kraton yesterday and am pretty disappointed in it. Granted it's not the same servo as you've stated but my 25kg jx servo was pretty much an even trade for the stock servo unfortunately. I'd love to hear what you think of yours.

 

[arrmadillo]

Quite a list going on there, enjoy the beast! ?

 

[aim4min]

I just put a jx servo in my kraton yesterday and am pretty disappointed in it. Granted it's not the same servo as you've stated but my 25kg jx servo was pretty much an even trade for the stock servo unfortunately. I'd love to hear what you think of yours.

I think I'm pretty happy with it, but I'm not really sure what to look for. It turns really fast, for sure. However, at high speeds I feel like it doesn't turn as strongly as it could. I also have some camber issues on the front tires ever since I installed the hot racing steering knuckles. (I did the servo and knuckles at same time). I'll report back after I'm done with all the upgrades, and after I get some more runs in.

 

[Spaz04]

Excellent thanx for the update! ?

 

[aim4min]

I’m wondering how much time do you think all of the above will take?

 

[aim4min]

And we’re off...

Two hours later...

 

[aim4min]

1 hour later...

 

[aim4min]

1 day later.... ran into a bunch of snags!

First, this video has been KEY to figuring out how to do diff shimming and changing the diffs:

During the upgrade to the to the Arrma Metal Diff Cases (ARA ) I couldn't get the diff case closed. Wasted about 2-3 hours trying! Go to the forums, and got the right answer within minutes! Thank you @bicketybam and ARRMAFORUM! td;rl; you don't use the tombstones with the metal case: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/arrma-aluminum-diff-cases.23360/page-2#post-323011.

I also added 1 5x7 1mm shim (Kyosho 5x7mm shims) to each of the 4 satellite/spider gears. I used 2x shims from the metal case behind each planetary gear, as per instructions. I added 30k cst to the front hub. I only got the front case done! 2 more to do!

Next up, was changing the bearing of the pinion. Holy crap - it was so tight. First attempt was without heat: striped the grub screw. Tried torx screw - no avail. I sprayed tons of wd-40 + soldering iron. As it cooled down (it shrunk i think) and somehow, I was able to get it hooked, and got it out. Phew! But then, the outboard didn't want to come off. I found a good old thread here: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/take-out-shaft-cup.2482/ Luckily, I had a punch set handy - and I hammered out the pinion. That was STUCK in there good. Changed the bearings. Then... couldn't get the little bearing back on the pinion - that pinion is a mothe..... I remembered a trick from a youtube video I saw - I got a 6mm socket, and used that to support the bearing, but let the pinion shaft through.... a few taps with hammer and set punch on the other side, and it worked! Man.... what a pain!

Now - the main problem I'm facing is that some of the screws on the steering assembly don't want to unscrew. I mean, they spin, but they also spin the bottom part that usually is attached to chassis. So, to replace those bushing with bearings, I'll have to wait until it goes back on the chassis.....

The state of my workbench after 2 days:

 

[northeastflyer]

Great post. That UK guys diff videos are awesome.

Good luck! Some of these hour / day long hang ups are so awful but we usually do come out the otherside.

 

[aim4min]

Day 3. Progress! All 3 diffs are done, oiled up, shimmed, and bearings replaced. Starting to put things back on the new m2c chassis.

I also replaced the bent wing mount with a new stock part and rear shock tower with m2c tower. Added the rear chassis brace, and the shock tower brace, which required drilling into the (thick) shock tower. I'm also replacing some of the black chassis screws with the nice aluminum once from the rc screws kit, makes it look pretty!

So, I finally figured out how to install the rear shock tower brace.
Things I learned: drilling metal takes a long time. And produces tons of little aluminum shards. Messy!

Random tip: when doing pinions, I didn't shove it ALL the way back in, and so it was catching the metal diff case in places. I had to give it a taps with a hammer to make sure that pinion was totally seated against the bearing, and then it worked fine.

Things I don't know about:

• I didn't put blue loctite on the bottom part of the m2c rear chassis brace, since it included a lock nut. But, I found this odd since the brace itself also had threads. Getting my socket driver to hold it wasn't really working, so I used pliers, held it, screwed it, the reversed it until it bind against the nut, then retightened nut. Seemed to work, and got pretty tight.
• I didn't shim the center diff holders. It didn't seem to need it.
• I hope blue loctite is enough, and I'm screwing tight enough. I definitely don't want to strip screws. I'm giving it a pretty good, but not super excessive amount of tightening force. Its definitely less force than trying to unscrew some of the original screws. I wonder too - how much damage a loose screw can cause.

Oh, and I went ahead and ordered m2c shock pistons, ackerman bar, front/rear skid plates, and front/rear hinge pin kits. I think I have everything m2c makes for the Kraton.... I wonder if I get some kind of completion bonus?!?! ;-)

 

[Oceanminded]

Fairly new Kraton 6s owner myself. I just broke my first A-arm so that will be the first upgrade on my list other than what I've already done with the front and rear bumpers (T-Bone and RPM). Question regarding the shims; Do I need to order anything else other than what you listed below for all three diffs;
Kyosho 96772 Shims 13x16x0.15
Kyosho 5x7mm shims
Mugen Seiki Differential Washer Set

I've seen so many different posts/videos listing all sorts of different shim possibilities I just want to make sure I'm ordering the correct ones for my first go around. I've also seen people replacing the gasket shim and o ring but didn't see that on your list.

 

[aim4min]

@Oceanminded - I don't consider myself an expert at shims by any means, but I think I got the hang of it. Basically, you just want to remove any play, when you push/pull the outboards. And for the satellites - you want to make sure you can turn it freely. I just ended up adding 1 each to the satellites.

You don't need to follow the instructions everyone gives exactly, since each diff case and case holder are different. I bought the metal arrma cups, which I actually highly recommend, since they are 2 parts, and that makes it easier to get the back o-ring in. Also, definitely use a 6mm socket to push that on - really helps. In the instructions for the metal arrma diff case, they said to put 2 shims (that it came with) behind the planetary, instead of the 1 that came with the v4. (earlier versions had none). I also kept the 1 existing shim on the outboards, 2 was too tight. I think for the center diff, there was extra play on the outboards, so I added 2 on for each of those.

If you order all of those shims, it should cover everything you need.

The Kyosho 96772 Shims 13x16x0.15, I used one of these. Used on the left side bearing (the side with the spur gear) where the whole diff case goes into the diff holder. This was was particularly annoying. But I only needed it on the rear holder (and there was one there already on my v4). On the front, I couldn't fit it in (and there wasn't one there already stock), and it was really tight anyways, so it didn't need it. Also, these are REALLY annoying to put in, and I ended up bending a few.

Kyosho 5x7mm shims you would use for inside the diff case, or by the outboards. I like these, since it comes in 3 different widths, so you can really dial it in. But, with my metal arma case, I ended up keeping the existing (single) stock shim on the outboards, and added the 2 shims behind the planetaries, using the ones that came with the case.

The Mugen Seiki Differential Washer Set I ended up only using the small ones, and used them all. In my metal diff case, everything seemed pretty tight already. These is already one of these shims behind each satellite gear. I added 1 of mugens behind each one. There are 12 of the small ones, so that worked out perfectly for my 3 diffs.

My metal diff case came with new gaskets, so I used them. But I don't think the gasket is a 'shim' per say. I think you would be fine reusing the existing one, unless it was torn or damaged somehow. I think its just there to prevent leaks. I re-used the o-rings.

While you're there with everything taken apart, make sure to put in bearings!

Todays update: finally got the steering assembly posts undone. I was a little desperate since my idea of adding it the chassis and then trying to unscrew the top didn't work (if I held the bottom chassis screw with the allen key and used my electric screwdriver on top, the chassis screw on bottom was being unscrewed)

new plan ... I removed the assembly from chassis, and screwed in a screw ALL the way down, bottoming it out, and made it tight. Then, applied heat to top screw, and then used allen key on bottom, e.screwdriver on top, and was able to remove it! Yay! Replaced bushing with bearings (top and bottom). Then tightened up the top again.

new problem. Now I couldn't get the screw from the bottom out. Same problem in reverse. Now the top screw was being undone as I attempting to unscrew bottom. sigh.... so, I took pair of plyers, and gripped the bottom (tiny) sliver of the screw holder, and tried to unscrew it while holding the case. This finally worked, but it took some doing.

The steering assembly posts are a TERRIBLE design!!!

I did some thinking, and since I ordered the hinge pin kits and ackerman bar from m2c - and its coming Thursday (probably sooner, since its really nearby) - I really don't want to put all this together, just to take it apart again. I'm going to pause for a couple days. Good thing I ordered the pins - cuz I just discovered that my hinge pin was slightly bent too!

So, that was quite a crash. Wasn't even full speed, but drove into a sign post and hit it straight on with left front wheel. Broke the bottom a-arm, bottom shock mount, and bent a hinge pin. Hopefully my upgrades will help prevent something like that from happening again. Or, I just have to be very careful around sign posts!

Oh, to repair my broken shock ends, I'm using:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-...ock-rod-end-spring-perch-set-tkr6140c/p979926
https://www.amainhobbies.com/lunsford-tekno-eb410-machined-shock-bushings-6-lns7331/p722973

via
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/kraton-6s-part-recommendations.21548/page-2

 

[Oceanminded]

Thanks for the reply! Hopefully it will all make more sense once I open everything ups and give it a go. I've seen several threads/videos with people using the 8x12x.0.2 mm shims from Kyosho or Basher. What are these shims used for and do I need to buy them as well.?