My Kraton 8s garage build

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This thing has been kicking my ass lately. Broke two arms last weekend and my motor freezes up today in mid air. It’s the Hobbystar 5692, 1120kv. It was packed with dust and peeled back the coating on the stater (whatever it’s called..). I cleaned it up and put it back together, I’m sure it won’t last. Where does all the dirt come from? Thru the bearings? The screw holes in the mount are all covered up...going to set this aside and run my crawler for a while....
That’s crazy! I don’t recall there being any ventilation on the Hobbystar motors. At least the 4092 I had didn’t have any so I’m guessing through the screw holes. What are you driving it in?
 
This thing has been kicking my ass lately. Broke two arms last weekend and my motor freezes up today in mid air. It’s the Hobbystar 5692, 1120kv. It was packed with dust and peeled back the coating on the stater (whatever it’s called..). I cleaned it up and put it back together, I’m sure it won’t last. Where does all the dirt come from? Thru the bearings? The screw holes in the mount are all covered up...going to set this aside and run my crawler for a while....

Honestly the Kraton 8s was a learning curve first larger RC I’d gotten and I went through several parts before I seemed to get to a spot I’m not breaking as much. The arms slowed the breakages after I added droop screw to the arms and thinned the shock oil to 30 weight. The servo is slow for sure. I followed the bicketybam and bought a primalrc servo 50 bucks can’t beat it. Bash on brothers ??
 
That’s crazy! I don’t recall there being any ventilation on the Hobbystar motors. At least the 4092 I had didn’t have any so I’m guessing through the screw holes. What are you driving it in?
I’m driving it mostly in a dirt lot some motor x guys took over. It’s dusty for sure but have run all my rigs there for years. I’ve had some motor bearings fail but never a stater. It was filled up with brown dirt, temp was only 140f. I saw early on with the k8s that someone else locked up a hs 5692. Might have been @Rich Duperbash

The motor bearings are fine and free. I might try and recondition the stater. Normally I’d just throw it away but these are a good bit more money than the 40mm cans.

Honestly the Kraton 8s was a learning curve first larger RC I’d gotten and I went through several parts before I seemed to get to a spot I’m not breaking as much. The arms slowed the breakages after I added droop screw to the arms and thinned the shock oil to 30 weight. The servo is slow for sure. I followed the bicketybam and bought a primalrc servo 50 bucks can’t beat it. Bash on brothers ??
I have not gotten my servo yet but have the receiver/servo mount. Last week I broke arms in a failed jump. It was in the low f40’s so maybe that’s the reason, no complaints, I’m not blaming anyone but myself. This thing is just an expensive endeavor no matter how you look at it. I have droop screws in and my car setup is pretty solid. May try changing the shock oil weight.
Edit: rotor not stater...
 
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I'm going to attempt to replace the kevlar that was around the rotor. It keeps the magnets from flying off. I suspect the dirt in there worn the windings and they came undown inside. Anyone do this. Kevlar thread is cheap and I have experience winding thread from building fishing rods...Going to then cover it with high temp epoxy paint. The kevlar and paint are good to 600f so in theory it should work. Pretty sure the magnets will fly off without it.

I think all the dirt came in at the plastic wire holder. There's a gap there.

The kevlar and paint is 18$. My job is so up in the air I will most likely need money for bills and food by the time this nonsense all pans out so trying this first...
 

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I rewrapped my rotor with Kevlar and expoxy paint. Felt super smooth, looked awesome (should have taken a pic). It lasted about a minute. Waste of time, should have just ran it unwrapped until the magnets flew off. Anyway back for the third time to the stock motor. Thinking of another combo this time. I’m familiar with hobbywing and like their products so it’s between the max5 combos and the Castle 8s 2028 combo. Anyone try both? Is sensored worth 110$ more? Leaning toward the castle system but not in a big hurry. Hobby money is a little scarce...
 
All apart again...I found a 56112 780kv rocket motor on ebay new for 58$. Could not pass it up. Castle mmx 8s esc on the way. Same price as the max5 so lm not sure I went with the right one.

Going with a limitless 34t spool gear for my spur and a 35t for pinion. Just slightly taller than 1:1. Got the idea from one of @Rich Duperbash videos. The drive line really is best for the 1200kv motors. If this doesn't work I think I will get one of the higher kv leopard big can motors. 800kv is really a pain to deal with. Giant 40plus pinions are not ideal. I'll let you know how all this pans out.

I regret my brace setup a little bit. It really complicates taking the center drive out. The way it sandwiches everything together...strongest set up I've seen though, the chassis will not bend towers, center drive and chassis all locked down.
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Well, I bought my first castle esc, the mmx 8s. I shortened the screws holding the fan down (they hit the caps i hear)...and made a wire harness for 2 lipos. Only ran it once but must say this set up; 56112 780kv with 35/34 gearing is pretty crazy. Motor and esc run warm but not hot. Batteries are not up to the task though. One is on its way out.
Couple things I like about the esc. It’s size, around the same as the max6, performance is very smooth even though I’m unsensored, brakes are awesome. Things I’m not crazy about are the short wires, switch, “smart” fan, and the program from a source rather than right on the esc. Maybe once I figure the programming out I will like it better. I don’t know how this small esc fun’s this huge motor in this over weight car but it does. Tried this setup with the stock esc and though it performed well with the 5692 is was not up to the task with this and the 1:1 gearing. Btw I tidied things up, the pic is a mess...
 

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Another thing I might add on the esc...there’s is no real directions that come with it. Those that do give you a IP address that doesn’t seem to link to anything. Its not hard to figure out but it would be nice to have a little piece of literature that gave you a clue. Everything is geared to pc so if you are an apple guy you need to program it with your transmitter or buy the 50$ blue tooth thingy and use your phone. Then I guess you get full advantage of all the bells and whistles...
I totally agree the switch is total rubbish for such an awesome ESC..!! I understand the short wire theory but in reality it's a bad idea.. ?
There thinking is wrong. In order to use it on most cars you will need three connectors. One for the harness and one for each battery. It would be nice to have one less connection therefore creating less resistance.
 
I'm an Mac guy too, but I'm lucky enough to have kept an old crappy windows netbook that works just about enough to use the Castle software..!!
I even asked Castle why they don't have a Mac version of the software and to be honest I can't even remember what the answer was..?

I think for my EXB build I'm going to use 8mm bullets on the ESC then make an extension lead to reach the battery 8mm to XT90..??
Then I hopefully shouldn't have any resistance issues..?
 
I think for my EXB build I'm going to use 8mm bullets on the ESC then make an extension lead to reach the battery 8mm to XT90..??
I used 6.5mm for the connection to the harness because it’s what I had on hand. If they get hot I’ll change them to 8mm. Seem to be fine though.
I’m able to program the esc with my transmitter. It’s limited though and one of the Features left out is the ability to increase the bec. I think you can go up to 8v but default is 6...I guess I’ll get the thing to hook it to my phone and bug everyone on here to tell me how to us it. I have a decent phone but don’t really know how to use it.
 
I just get this how I like it and now my batteries are not up to the task. The Yoowooo 6500mah graphene batteries are getting over 150f and both take several hours to balance now with each having a low cell. Same with the Hobbystar 6500mah. Going to try a pair of Powerhobby 7200mah 100c. Seems like a lot of guys run these so we’ll see.

Replaced the esc fan with one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fans-Aluminum-40mm-by-Team-Power-Products/303555546375?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=602784690541&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Really nice drop in replacement for the mmx8s fan. I wish they made a 35mm for the max6. Probable could make a 40 work...
 
I just get this how I like it and now my batteries are not up to the task. The Yoowooo 6500mah graphene batteries are getting over 150f and both take several hours to balance now with each having a low cell. Same with the Hobbystar 6500mah. Going to try a pair of Powerhobby 7200mah 100c. Seems like a lot of guys run these so we’ll see.

Replaced the esc fan with one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fans-Aluminum-40mm-by-Team-Power-Products/303555546375?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=602784690541&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Really nice drop in replacement for the mmx8s fan. I wish they made a 35mm for the max6. Probable could make a 40 work...
Thanks for the link! I just grabbed two of those fans ???
 
Thanks for the link! I just grabbed two of those fans ???
You will need to either reuse the connector on the castle fan or just plug it in to a open spot on your receiver for constant cooling. The plug it comes with is the standard one for the receiver. Sorry, I should have mentioned the esc plug. It’s a one used in mini drones. I don’t remember what it’s called but if you don’t solder your hobby shop should have one the can switch out for you.
 
You will need to either reuse the connector on the castle fan or just plug it in to a open spot on your receiver for constant cooling. The plug it comes with is the standard one for the receiver. Sorry, I should have mentioned the esc plug. It’s a one used in mini drones. I don’t remember what it’s called but if you don’t solder your hobby shop should have one the can switch out for you.
I was going to plug it into the receiver. I never understood why Castle chooses to run the fan only at high temps. Why not prevent it from even getting to that point?
 
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