Kraton My Kraton Exb Rear Diff Solution

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Dscracing1320

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Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. Infraction
  3. Kraton 8S
  4. Kraton 6s
  5. Kraton EXB
  6. Mojave
  7. Mojave EXB
  8. Notorious
  9. Outcast 6s
  10. Senton 3s
  11. Talion
  12. Typhon 6s
  13. Typhon 3s
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I wanted to come up with a solid solution to strengthen the rear diff without sacrificing the handling that comes with a locked or a heavy weight oil rear diff. So basically I wanted to retain a open diff.

My solution was to buy (2) ARA310984 Active Diff Plate kits and combine the plates without the use of the center locking discs and it worked perfectly. They are butter smooth and can tune with thicker or thinner oil to get exactly the amount of slip I want..

Side note I ran the lsd exactly as the front and center diff are assembled with 10k in the rear and still was to tight for my liking. Then installed 3 lsd outer rings on both sides went up to 20k and handling was greatly improved.
 
View attachment 93107View attachment 93108View attachment 93109I wanted to come up with a solid solution to strengthen the rear diff without sacrificing the handling that comes with a locked or a heavy weight oil rear diff. So basically I wanted to retain a open diff.

My solution was to buy (2) ARA310984 Active Diff Plate kits and combine the plates without the use of the center locking discs and it worked perfectly. They are butter smooth and can tune with thicker or thinner oil to get exactly the amount of slip I want..

Side note I ran the lsd exactly as the front and center diff are assembled with 10k in the rear and still was to tight for my liking. Then installed 3 lsd outer rings on both sides went up to 20k and handling was greatly improved.
I was thinking of doing this exact thing when my parts arrive ( bought one set of plates from LHS) . Factory shims are wrong and bent like a bowl . Good to hear someone has already tried this with success. Hopefully with correct shims I will be good to go. Great forum!! Thanks everyone!!
 
I was thinking of doing this exact thing when my parts arrive ( bought one set of plates from LHS) . Factory shims are wrong and bent like a bowl . Good to hear someone has already tried this with success. Hopefully with correct shims I will be good to go. Great forum!! Thanks everyone!!


I'm glad I tried it. I really think this is the ticket. Actually I think it should've been this way from the factory.
 
I agree the only worry I have is the shims behind the pin wearing out then breaking after a short period. I’m going to build mine just like yours and hope for the best.
 
Looks like the gear set is backordered until Nov 2020, so people either need to fix theirs before they break the gears or they will have to swap out to a V4 diff and pinion.
 
Looks like the gear set is backordered until Nov 2020, so people either need to fix theirs before they break the gears or they will have to swap out to a V4 diff and pinion.
I really hope I don't have to put in a v4 diff and pinion. I already have two kratons with all v4 upgrades and every aluminum part M2C and Hot Racing makes. The stronger gears are the only thing that got me to buy the EXB. Extreme Bash my A$$$$$$$$$$$
Such a let down and waste of our money.
When other companies release rollers they are precision fit. To me that’s why you spend big money on something without electronics
If any of you guys knew you were going to have to rebuild the diffs would you still have bought it? I realize bit&$!$@ about it don’t fix it but I think it lets Arrma and HH know that this is Not Acceptable and we should Not have to rebuild the gears in a 500 Dollar Roller. The Roller should at least Roll. Ppl seem to get upset when I Point this out but I don’t understand why.
 
I really hope I don't have to put in a v4 diff and pinion. I already have two kratons with all v4 upgrades and every aluminum part M2C and Hot Racing makes. The stronger gears are the only thing that got me to buy the EXB. Extreme Bash my A$$$$$$$$$$$
Such a let down and waste of our money.
When other companies release rollers they are precision fit. To me that’s why you spend big money on something without electronics
If any of you guys knew you were going to have to rebuild the diffs would you still have bought it? I realize bit&$!$@ about it don’t fix it but I think it lets Arrma and HH know that this is Not Acceptable and we should Not have to rebuild the gears in a 500 Dollar Roller. The Roller should at least Roll. Ppl seem to get upset when I Point this out but I don’t understand why.
Well I had heard that there were issues but if you had the three shims you were good to go. Then I found out too late that they mislabeled the shim thickness and it’s still wrong. Oh well. At least I know that I can run a V4 diff for now or until JRC breaks one down.
 
wanted to come up with a solid solution to strengthen the rear diff without sacrificing the handling that comes with a locked or a heavy weight oil rear diff. So basically I wanted to retain a open diff.

My solution was to buy (2) ARA310984 Active Diff Plate kits and combine the plates without the use of the center locking discs and it worked perfectly. They are butter smooth and can tune with thicker or thinner oil to get exactly the amount of slip I want..

Side note I ran the lsd exactly as the front and center diff are assembled with 10k in the rear and still was to tight for my liking. Then installed 3 lsd outer rings on both sides went up to 20k and handling was greatly improved.

Thank you! I am a noob and have my EXB roller sitting here unopened. Would you be kind enough to tell me what weights of fluid you are running in each diff and did you open all three and replace the fluid in them? Also, I don't know enough about this to understand what you mean by too tight, can you help me understand what you experience when driving when you say "too tight"? Can it be too loose, and what does that look/feel like?
 
I really hope I don't have to put in a v4 diff and pinion. I already have two kratons with all v4 upgrades and every aluminum part M2C and Hot Racing makes. The stronger gears are the only thing that got me to buy the EXB. Extreme Bash my A$$$$$$$$$$$
Such a let down and waste of our money.
When other companies release rollers they are precision fit. To me that’s why you spend big money on something without electronics
If any of you guys knew you were going to have to rebuild the diffs would you still have bought it? I realize bit&$!$@ about it don’t fix it but I think it lets Arrma and HH know that this is Not Acceptable and we should Not have to rebuild the gears in a 500 Dollar Roller. The Roller should at least Roll. Ppl seem to get upset when I Point this out but I don’t understand why.
You have 2 fully decked out Kratons and bought the EXB just for the diffs? I would have bought just the diffs and slapped them into one of your other two.

I feel bad that you have this issue. So far mine has been fine. The only thing I did was add a different weight fluid to the rear diff. Other than that it's how it came from the factory.
 
Thank you! I am a noob and have my EXB roller sitting here unopened. Would you be kind enough to tell me what weights of fluid you are running in each diff and did you open all three and replace the fluid in them? Also, I don't know enough about this to understand what you mean by too tight, can you help me understand what you experience when driving when you say "too tight"? Can it be too loose, and what does that look/feel like?



Yes I've opened inspected and rebuilt all 3 diffs. When I say "tight" I mean the resistance it takes to spin the diff. "Loose" is a unlocked diff very easy to "diff out" meaning all the power will go to the tire with the least amount on resistance. Locking your rear diff with a lsd or heavy weight oil will make the rig tail happy and harder to keep it straight on throttle. And its not something I enjoy on a surface with less traction. My current setup is 60k Front w/Lsd 200k Center w/lsd and 20k Rear open. I use big 4092 1480kv motors.. with a smaller motor or higher kv I'd lighten up the center to 100k.

My fully built M2C v4's kraton and kraton xl use 60k Front 500k Center and 30k Rear.
 
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You have 2 fully decked out Kratons and bought the EXB just for the diffs? I would have bought just the diffs and slapped them into one of your other two.

I feel bad that you have this issue. So far mine has been fine. The only thing I did was add a different weight fluid to the rear diff. Other than that it's how it came from the factory.
Yeah I definitely didn’t need it. I have a fully decked outcast, Talion,typhon and senton all 6s and brcc 4s and kraton 4s. Not needing an Arrma is no excuse not to buy one LOL ? I am just really disappointed with this situation. Hope yours holds up.
 
Yes I've opened inspected and rebuilt all 3 diffs. When I say "tight" I mean the resistance it takes to spin the diff. "Loose" is a unlocked diff very easy to "diff out" meaning all the power will go to the tire with the least amount on resistance. Locking your rear diff with a lsd or heavy weight oil will make the rig tail happy and harder to keep it straight on throttle. And its not something I enjoy on a surface with less traction. My current setup is 60k Front w/Lsd 200k Center w/lsd and 20k Rear open. I use big 4092 1480kv motors.. with a smaller motor or higher kv I'd lighten up the center to 100k.

My fully built M2C v4's kraton and kraton xl use 60k Front 500k Center and 30k Rear.

Thank you so much, very helpful! You gave me enough information that I can start working on my diffs this weekend. I can't get the diff plates or shims for love or money around here (Ottawa, Canada) but at least I know enough to get started. If the front and center don't need shimming I'll be able to drain and refill those with appropriate diff fluid.

I wonder how it would handle with say 10k in the rear with the LSD plates arranged for less effect as I read up thread. Can't wait to get shims and a motor/ESC and start testing with mine - but first I need to rebuild and fill the diffs.
 
Thank you so much, very helpful! You gave me enough information that I can start working on my diffs this weekend. I can't get the diff plates or shims for love or money around here (Ottawa, Canada) but at least I know enough to get started. If the front and center don't need shimming I'll be able to drain and refill those with appropriate diff fluid.

I wonder how it would handle with say 10k in the rear with the LSD plates arranged for less effect as I read up thread. Can't wait to get shims and a motor/ESC and start testing with mine - but first I need to rebuild and fill the diffs.


I tried the diff in that configuration and it was okay but still wasn't as good as having it completely open to me. But the great thing about it is the experimenting and knowledge that comes with trying different setups and what works best for you. My setup may not be perfect but it works for me. Try a few different weights or setups and you'll see what I mean ?
 
View attachment 93107View attachment 93108View attachment 93109I wanted to come up with a solid solution to strengthen the rear diff without sacrificing the handling that comes with a locked or a heavy weight oil rear diff. So basically I wanted to retain a open diff.

My solution was to buy (2) ARA310984 Active Diff Plate kits and combine the plates without the use of the center locking discs and it worked perfectly. They are butter smooth and can tune with thicker or thinner oil to get exactly the amount of slip I want..

Side note I ran the lsd exactly as the front and center diff are assembled with 10k in the rear and still was to tight for my liking. Then installed 3 lsd outer rings on both sides went up to 20k and handling was greatly improved.
let me know how it goes how the diff holds up ?
then I know what to do? when the kraton comes out here in the Netherlands
 
This makes total sense. Nobody thought to run just the friction plates without the friction disk! Awesome job experimenting ? could you keep us posted on how well this fix holds up after a few runs?
 
They have a reduced lsd effect with the lsd kit, it’s shown on their website now.
 

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View attachment 93107View attachment 93108View attachment 93109I wanted to come up with a solid solution to strengthen the rear diff without sacrificing the handling that comes with a locked or a heavy weight oil rear diff. So basically I wanted to retain a open diff.

My solution was to buy (2) ARA310984 Active Diff Plate kits and combine the plates without the use of the center locking discs and it worked perfectly. They are butter smooth and can tune with thicker or thinner oil to get exactly the amount of slip I want..

Side note I ran the lsd exactly as the front and center diff are assembled with 10k in the rear and still was to tight for my liking. Then installed 3 lsd outer rings on both sides went up to 20k and handling was greatly improved.
Im confused what did it do exactly??
To my understanding using the 3 star disks is like running the as shims? Does it still behave like an open diff or with a bit of limit slip action? If this is the fix then great!!
 
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