Hi guys,
I figured it's about time I share what I've done with my limitless up to now. Typically me, it's only the first iteration and many are likely to follow. Actually, i've had an earlier iteration, which was mostly destroyed when blew my first tyre. The limitless proved itself to be sturdy, cars broke into pieces at lower speeds.
The limitless deserves to beat my 224kmh personal record from my Hobao. And I've not hit 200kmh with this one yet. Some day it will...
The front:
I figured it's about time I share what I've done with my limitless up to now. Typically me, it's only the first iteration and many are likely to follow. Actually, i've had an earlier iteration, which was mostly destroyed when blew my first tyre. The limitless proved itself to be sturdy, cars broke into pieces at lower speeds.
The limitless deserves to beat my 224kmh personal record from my Hobao. And I've not hit 200kmh with this one yet. Some day it will...
The front:
- Some led strips on the upper A-arms for visibility
- GRP S3 wheels. The hoons weren't really holding up at high speeds.
- Removed the original nose and replaced it with a 3D printed gopro session mount in the middle and some aero flaps in front of the wheels. Not so much for downforce, but a first attempt to influence the air resistance of the open wheel configuration.
- TP power 4070CM - 2200KV motor with with dual heatsink fans
- Mamba XLX with some cooling improvements (ducted 60x60 fan, thermal paste/pads and extra heatsinks to match the 60x60 fan) It's not properly mounted yet as i ordered some extreme delta fans (to replace the current ones on the motor and esc) and EC8 plugs to replace the XT90's.
- I moved the centre brace bar a little to the side to make room for the esc and make it fit under the original body
- The 4S Turnigy 5k graphene hardcase lipo's are rather big, but they give me less ripple and amp restriction than other batteries I've tried. I would rather not have them both on one side, but if i want to keep using the original body i don't see any alternative.
- a DIY 7pack 2200uF low ESR 35V caps
- The receiverbox is filled with cables, Flysky voltage/temp sensors, 12V ubec for fans and leds. I put the receiver(flysky IA4B) outside as i like accessibility (and i don't speedrun in the rain) and i was having some lesser range compared to what i am used to with other cars.
- A cheapo DS3235SG servo rated for '35 kg', decent enough to keep a straight line.
- Batterystrap/sideskirt holders have velcro to keep the body thight.
- 3D printed sideskirts matching the rake (suspension all down they don't touch the ground) and a expansion bubble increasing the ground effect a little
- Wheel case plates from thingiverse.(credit to <edit in later>). They should improve the ground effect and aero a little as well. I am still unsure if they really do.
- I cut out the back of the body. Hot air needs to get out easily. And as i had to cut out i little in the front to fit the battery it's not fully enclosed and i definitely not want it to catch air and go airborne.
- Removed the little piece at the wheel arc that scrapes when the tyres expand.
- Cut down the rear wing to it's lowest line, still leaving a little downforce as i speedrun on mediocre lenght of road.
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