Limitless My Limitless Build

[claytonbakerjr]

I think the ideal setup would be similar to what Raz has done where it is more or less locked, but also has the ability to absorb some smaller vibrations.
A factory shock that can still move with a poly urethane bushing material in place of the spring maybe?

View attachment 139694

Yea agreed, it still would need some bounce otherwise it could result it other issues due to vibrations.
Looks as if he eliminated the spring and went with that insert of sorts

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Got my girls tonight.
1st Hard case batteries I have ever owned. I will say they are the 1st that I have seen where
they marked the cell voltages on a tag in the box
When I ordered they did not have an option for 8mm bullets or one for No Connector so I had them install
the QS8's which the bullets on my Y adapter fit perfectly into and are snug so I may leave well enough alone
and run it like that when the time comes.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Ok so I have a dumb question and I'm sure I might get beat up a bit but....
Why is my reverse at least 60% (at least) faster than my forward....
RadioLink RC6GS/R7FGv2
Castle combo MMX8S/1717-1650
Everything is working as it should, forward is forward...reverse is reverse, left is left...right is right
without reversing any channels on Radio or in the Castle ESC.
Wheels are spinning correctly but its like reverse has WAYYYY MORE Power than Forward.
I noticed it last week (have not driven yet) and reduced power in Castle for reverse
but its still like something is bass-akwards.
Thanks

EDIT I think I got it....I red for the 5th time how to do it and discovered the issue. When calibration the green and the red flashing lights were reversed so I have to reverse the TX, now I need to reverse the motor in the Castle link

 

[rotauq]

But is your brake really the brake? If the motor turns in the direction matched with the radio it doesn't mean the esc also knows.

Could be your esc settings, radio CH2 EPA,...

 

[claytonbakerjr]

But is your brake really the brake? If the motor turns in the direction matched with the radio it doesn't mean the esc also knows.

Could be your esc settings, radio CH2 EPA,...

I wont lie I have always (for some reason) struggled with Car/Boat type radios, if this was a Taranus I would be flying LOL.
All EPA settings are at 100% right now. Your comment of: "But is your brake, really a brake" honestly confuses me. That being said
if reverse is not brake....what is this is and always has been a disconnect for me when people speak "brake"
So going back to the red light green light confusion...I re-read this and as a result I feel I needed to reverse the channel
according to the way it reads?? Bold areas mostly.
"Keep holding full throttle on the transmitter. If all your connections are correct, you will hear one multi-toned initialization “ring” from the. If the ESC’s voltage cutoff is set to Auto-LiPo (the default setting), then the ESC will emit a sequence of beeps indicating the number of battery cells - If the number of beeps does NOT match the number of cells, disconnect the battery and confirm that it is fully charged. After the beeps, the green LED on the ESC will blink rapidly. If the red LED is blinking instead, reverse your throttle channel. After a couple of seconds, the motor will “ring” four times in a row. Next, the ESC will rapidly blink the red LED and the motor will beep continuously. At this point, the full throttle endpoint has been set within the ESC and now it’s looking for the full brake endpoint (red LED blinking). "

I tested moving my EPA for reverse down to 30% and seen the difference

 

[rotauq]

I wont lie I have always (for some reason) struggled with Car/Boat type radios, if this was a Taranus I would be flying LOL.
All EPA settings are at 100% right now. Your comment of: "But is your brake, really a brake" honestly confuses me. That being said
if reverse is not brake....what is this is and always has been a disconnect for me when people speak "brake"
So going back to the red light green light confusion...I re-read this and as a result I feel I needed to reverse the channel
according to the way it reads?? Bold areas mostly.
"Keep holding full throttle on the transmitter. If all your connections are correct, you will hear one multi-toned initialization “ring” from the. If the ESC’s voltage cutoff is set to Auto-LiPo (the default setting), then the ESC will emit a sequence of beeps indicating the number of battery cells - If the number of beeps does NOT match the number of cells, disconnect the battery and confirm that it is fully charged. After the beeps, the green LED on the ESC will blink rapidly. If the red LED is blinking instead, reverse your throttle channel. After a couple of seconds, the motor will “ring” four times in a row. Next, the ESC will rapidly blink the red LED and the motor will beep continuously. At this point, the full throttle endpoint has been set within the ESC and now it’s looking for the full brake endpoint (red LED blinking). "

I tested moving my EPA for reverse down to 30% and seen the difference

Brake is a "surface mode" override on channel 2. When + throttle is not zero and you give - throttle it will only deaccelerate and not trigger reverse. When you drive in reverse and go full throttle it doesn't...
Your esc calibration is just to determine the CH2 End points of your radio. (no need to reverse on the radio, just leave it normal)

Assuming you are not running sensored. Just swap 2 wires to make the esc tell the motor what way it needs to run. The esc does not know how you motor is placed in the car and what direction is forward or backwards. Sensored does require A-B-C to be matched correctly and you would need to configure the esc to be either normal or reversed.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Brake is a "surface mode" override on channel 2. When + throttle is not zero and you give - throttle it will only deaccelerate and not trigger reverse. When you drive in reverse and go full throttle it doesn't...
Your esc calibration is just to determine the CH2 End points of your radio. (no need to reverse on the radio, just leave it normal)

Assuming you are not running sensored. Just swap 2 wires to make the esc tell the motor what way it needs to run. The esc does not know how you motor is placed in the car and what direction is forward or backwards. Sensored does require A-B-C to be matched correctly and you would need to configure the esc to be either normal or reversed.

I will do some research on Braking setup.
As per Motor I am running Sensored at the moment and all wires are ABC.
After reversing the motor within Castle the light show on the ESC was correct (according to Castles info above. When giving throttle the light was Red now it is green. I like green With the exception of the Limit all other cars have the Arrma supplied radios so I imagine all that good stuff was setup at the factory which drives me to now learning as much as I can about Surface radio setups and learning the ways of the masters
Not too mention my radio.
I did get around to popping a FPV setup in her this weekend as discussed. No pictures at the moment but I did design a 20x20 mount for the VTX that mounts to the rear diffuser. At the moment it seems very sturdy and secure.
I was going to go with an FC as you did but I can implement that later I suppose need be.
In my case I tapped out the 4 holes with a 3mm tap then used plastic screws to mount the VTX. I used a steel 3mm screw for the mount.

 

[rotauq]

I will do some research on Braking setup.
As per Motor I am running Sensored at the moment and all wires are ABC.
After reversing the motor within Castle the light show on the ESC was correct (according to Castles info above. When giving throttle the light was Red now it is green. I like green With the exception of the Limit all other cars have the Arrma supplied radios so I imagine all that good stuff was setup at the factory which drives me to now learning as much as I can about Surface radio setups and learning the ways of the masters
Not too mention my radio.
I did get around to popping a FPV setup in her this weekend as discussed. No pictures at the moment but I did design a 20x20 mount for the VTX that mounts to the rear diffuser. At the moment it seems very sturdy and secure.
I was going to go with an FC as you did but I can implement that later I suppose need be.
In my case I tapped out the 4 holes with a 3mm tap then used plastic screws to mount the VTX. I used a steel 3mm screw for the mount.

View attachment 140574

View attachment 140575

I've been playing with my FC this weekend and managed to map my Ftr10 Rx to the FC via i-bus. This whiles still having the Rx communicate with the esc directly. So I can control the FC with my radio buttons and or have it act upon throttle input for example

 

[claytonbakerjr]

I've been playing with my FC this weekend and managed to map my Ftr10 Rx to the FC via i-bus. This whiles still having the Rx communicate with the esc directly. So I can control the FC with my radio buttons and or have it act upon throttle input for example

Thats Awesome, nice job

 

[claytonbakerjr]

So I am curious about a product...
I know several guys I see post stuff using their Castle Link Bluetooth
but honestly I feel it is a bit pricy...
I have the normal Castle link and also seen this but the only
reason I did not purchase it is because I am curious how well
it allows transmission of signal from ESC to RX through the device itself.
In other words if there is lag "so to speak"
Anyone have experience with this?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle...sNHloyuE_pJeYvwbHy0GFfOInI3IqEYUaAoKvEALw_wcB

 

[LibertyMKiii]

So I am curious about a product...
I know several guys I see post stuff using their Castle Link Bluetooth
but honestly I feel it is a bit pricy...
I have the normal Castle link and also seen this but the only
reason I did not purchase it is because I am curious how well
it allows transmission of signal from ESC to RX through the device itself.
In other words if there is lag "so to speak"
Anyone have experience with this?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle...sNHloyuE_pJeYvwbHy0GFfOInI3IqEYUaAoKvEALw_wcB

I have never owned one so take this as a grain of salt.
To me it is a cool product, but I don't really adjust my settings that often on speed runners. If it could pull data logs between runs, that would be another story....
I usually try one setting, then adjust with the castle link and I am good to go from there after my second adjustment.

Just never caught my interest enough and especially for the price.

 

[The Donut Man]

So I am curious about a product...
I know several guys I see post stuff using their Castle Link Bluetooth
but honestly I feel it is a bit pricy...
I have the normal Castle link and also seen this but the only
reason I did not purchase it is because I am curious how well
it allows transmission of signal from ESC to RX through the device itself.
In other words if there is lag "so to speak"
Anyone have experience with this?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/castle...sNHloyuE_pJeYvwbHy0GFfOInI3IqEYUaAoKvEALw_wcB

I have the Castle B-Link, and I got it without knowing that it doesn't yet allow access to data logs remotely. As for lag, there was no effect to the ESC input when I had it installed. I'm in the same boat as Liberty; I only make changes via the 3-pin Castle link when I'm looking at logs, but I don't need the on-the-go adjustability it provides. As soon as I can look at logs through it, though, I'll pop it right back into my rig! Castle has allegedly been working on that feature of the app for a while...

 

[Danyrc]

I bought two Castle Link Bluetooths because Castle said they would include data logs in the app in a near future but many months have passed and no update has come. As others, I don't use it for changing settings, I do that in my computer, so the devices are somewhere in the toolbox patiently waiting.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Well seems as if my Scorched parts have made it state side....Chicago

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Well since it seems I will be heading to the pavement some time soon, I'm considering grabbing another set of tires.
At the stage I am at now I do not feel any 130's' in my near future and likely wont for a while
In any case I keep seeing GRP's being talked about and I am considering a set of G5's at the moment.
Graves RC has them in stock for 22 bucks a pair...can I do better elsewhere state side?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Well since it seems I will be heading to the pavement some time soon, I'm considering grabbing another set of tires.
At the stage I am at now I do not feel any 130's' in my near future and likely wont for a while
In any case I keep seeing GRP's being talked about and I am considering a set of G5's at the moment.
Graves RC has them in stock for 22 bucks a pair...can I do better elsewhere state side?

Some of us are noting that the S1 through S3 are a good place to start for extra grip, and might be better balanced also. I have taken the S1 to 119 (possibly 132mph with no gps signal) without issues.

Another thing to note when purchasing GRP wheels/tires is the "J" in the product code stands for the hard wheel. All the others have the "soft" wheel. So for example an S1 with the J hard wheel would be GRP GTJ01-s1:

GRP GTJ01-S1 1:8 GT Tread S1 XXSoft White Spoked Rubber Tires - HARD RIM

https://www.hobbyheroes.com/collect...ked-on-road-rubber-tires-hard-rim-grpgtj01-s1

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Some of us are noting that the S1 through S3 are a good place to start for extra grip, and might be better balanced also. I have taken the S1 to 119 (possibly 132mph with no gps signal) without issues.

Another thing to note when purchasing GRP wheels/tires is the "J" in the product code stands for the hard wheel. All the others have the "soft" wheel. So for example an S1 with the J hard wheel would be GRP GTJ01-s1:

GRP GTJ01-S1 1:8 GT Tread S1 XXSoft White Spoked Rubber Tires - HARD RIM

https://www.hobbyheroes.com/collect...ked-on-road-rubber-tires-hard-rim-grpgtj01-s1

Thank you I did not know this. Thank you very much
At Hobby Heros it seems all white are typically Hard rims so I will assume black is softer...

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thank you I did not know this. Thank you very much
At Hobby Heros it seems all white are typically Hard rims so I will assume black is softer...

Yeah that may be the deal.
Plenty of people have gone fast on soft wheels also not knowing this little bit of info. So it may not make a big difference if you prefer a black wheel.

 

[claytonbakerjr]

Yeah that may be the deal.
Plenty of people have gone fast on soft wheels also not knowing this little bit of info. So it may not make a big difference if you prefer a black wheel.

Well my goal is to be safe and ensure Longevity of the car, looks have to come in 2nd place
Thanks Lib

 

[rotauq]

Also stay away from the S7's, I and several others have had bad experiences with specifically 'hardest' GRP tire.