Vendetta My low cell Vendetta build

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It'll break in after a few runs.use temp gun alot at first.hot spots are high friction areas that'll need addressed.,I've become QUIK-DRAW-MCGRAW with gun.lol
I know that tight differentials on other 3s cars break in. But when I tried to run my mini infraction it was rather horrendous until I triple shimmed both. It’s like they went out of their way to mush them together as much as possible. It wasn’t until I had run 20 packs or so that I had to remove one of the shims from the rear. This was using the stock diff yokes. Maybe I should’ve tried harder to break it in just driving it with one shim.
 
I noticed on my mini infraction (same chassis/diffs) that it was far tighter than I had found it on all my other 3s cars. So I had to triple shim on the non-ringside gear where I normally only have to use one shim.
What should I shim it with? (This is my 1st 3S Arrma)
It'll break in after a few runs.use temp gun alot at first.hot spots are high friction areas that'll need addressed.,I've become QUIK-DRAW-MCGRAW with gun.lol
What do you mean by "addressed"?
 
I know that tight differentials on other 3s cars break in. But when I tried to run my mini infraction it was rather horrendous until I triple shimmed both. It’s like they went out of their way to mush them together as much as possible. It wasn’t until I had run 20 packs or so that I had to remove one of the shims from the rear. This was using the stock diff yokes. Maybe I should’ve tried harder to break it in just driving it with one shim.
I run with all my screws loose,much better roll resistence,an suprisly don't break the plastic diffs

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I run with all my screws loose,much better roll resistence,an suprisly don't break the plastic diffs

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Is that more risky when it comes to bashing? I know people do that but I’ve been hesitant to try for no particular reason.
 
What should I shim it with? (This is my 1st 3S Arrma)

What do you mean by "addressed"?
They already come with a shim on the non-ringside gear (at least they usually do). And typically that’s enough. It’s there so that the diffs work with little resistance. I have to check and remove the shim every 15 to 25 packs. And then after a certain point I put the shim on the ring side gear to tighten it. This is after it’s really worn in.

I think it possibly means addressed with sandpaper or a file or maybe even a shim. He just mentioned that he’ll run with the diff yoke screws loose but I’ve never tried that. But keep in mind I’m not speed running, I’m just general bashing. Even my little infraction set up as a Parking Lot basher.
 
They already come with a shim on the non-ringside gear (at least they usually do). And typically that’s enough. It’s there so that the diffs work with little resistance. I have to check and remove the shim every 15 to 25 packs. And then after a certain point I put the shim on the ring side gear to tighten it. This is after it’s really worn in.

I think it possibly means addressed with sandpaper or a file or maybe even a shim. He just mentioned that he’ll run with the diff yoke screws loose but I’ve never tried that. But keep in mind I’m not speed running, I’m just general bashing. Even my little infraction set up as a Parking Lot basher.
I am going to my LHS today and I think I will pick up some shims. What shims do you use on the 3S diffs? are they 29mm or are the 6S ones 29mm?
@vwturbowolf Kaniz RC messaged me back on FB last night.
 
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I am going to my LHS today and I think I will pick up some shims. What shims do you use on the 3S diffs? are they 29mm or are the 6S ones 29mm?
Honestly I’ve never intentionally bought any, just ‘ended up’ with a bunch of them from cars and other purchases over 2 years. Im not super technical with my builds, mostly go by feel, winging it and much trial and error type testing.

They are the same ones I use to shim the outside of my 6s diffs. I believe these are the ones but you should confirm. Didn’t your car come with one in each diff? Just pull it and take with you if so. I believe you can get different thicknesses of shim also. G’luck man.

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Crap, I sometimes forget that I can go to the website, pull up the vehicle, go to the breakdown and find a specific part number. So hold on a minute…

Yup it’s the right ones.
Go to Arrma-rc.com
Find your vehicle
Scroll down and under Quick links
Choose Manuals and Support
Click on Exploded View
Search for the part number
copy it and paste in the Amain Hobby or
Horizon website or whatever shop you
use.

Takes a minute or two but it’s way better then guessing. And if you just can’t figure it out, ask on here. But I definitely try to figure it out myself first as I see so many asking others to do it for them when they are capable to do it themselves or at least learn how. Asking is for when you just can’t figure it out after diligently trying.

If I’m unclear at all let me know and I’ll try to describe better.

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Finished up the front end tonight, my LHS did not have the right shims, so I ended up loosening up the yoke just a bit and the diff moves freely 95% of the way around and I added quite a bit of Mobile 1 grease since there was very little from the factory. That blue aluminum also looks very nice on the car and fits very well so far it looks like it was a well worth buy.
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I forgot to mention this previously. These hot racing diff yokes are amazing. I have them on the rear end of all my bashers. The fit is perfect with no binding whatsoever. I haven’t found the front really needs it.

But they are pricey. So I picked up this offbrand which is a little bit less and the fit seems perfect. *I haven’t run it yet but when I assembled, it went together as good and smooth as hot racing. Just something to think about for down the line.

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I weight everything,weight distribution an downforce front to rear is key on the plastic chassis cars..my car is sketchy above 115 without 160 gram 4s pack on nose....how much more does the steering rack weight compared to stock????I wouldn't run this car without this pack on front,to sketchy. I use a 11lb max food scale off Amazon for like 10$.

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Finished up the front end tonight, my LHS did not have the right shims, so I ended up loosening up the yoke just a bit and the diff moves freely 95% of the way around and I added quite a bit of Mobile 1 grease since there was very little from the factory. That blue aluminum also looks very nice on the car and fits very well so far it looks like it was a well worth buy.View attachment 249906View attachment 249907
Looks good. I highly recommend the gpm adjustable rod arms for dialing in the alignment
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@vwturbowolf @LibertyMKiii Would you guys be willing to guide me on making the 1/7 motor mount work?
It seems that Kaniz RC does not want to give me much info, the only info he gave me was it needs few special bearings to make it work and something about it needs custom cut input sleeves.
I will be buying his spool and shaft when they come back in stock, it is $75 for the spool and shaft.
 
@vwturbowolf @LibertyMKiii Would you guys be willing to guide me on making the 1/7 motor mount work?
It seems that Kaniz RC does not want to give me much info, the only info he gave me was it needs few special bearings to make it work and something about it needs custom cut input sleeves.
I will be buying his spool and shaft when they come back in stock, it is $75 for the spool and shaft.
I am not of much help since I don't own a 3s rig. I think the tricky part is getting the shafts to connect to the 6s model spool assembly and having that be the correct length.
I was thinking how I would have done it is to mount the 6s sliding mount to the factory motor mount metal plate and utilize the HR mod 1 spur adapter/slipper eliminator. It would take some cutting and grinding for how I had imagined it. (see post #42 in this thread)
 
@vwturbowolf @LibertyMKiii Would you guys be willing to guide me on making the 1/7 motor mount work?
It seems that Kaniz RC does not want to give me much info, the only info he gave me was it needs few special bearings to make it work and something about it needs custom cut input sleeves.
I will be buying his spool and shaft when they come back in stock, it is $75 for the spool and shaft.
I made this setup over winter when I was toying around with the idea, but I didn’t have bearings or a spool that would work so I scrapped it. I might try to mess around with it in the next couple weeks. If I come up with something that works in a not so custom way I’ll let you know.
 
@vwturbowolf I have a 1/7 motor mount that I took of a Limitless that I will be holding on to, let me know what you come up with, I will also hold off on buying Kaniz spool and shaft cos I would rather have the adjustable motor mount over his spool and if we can make them both work that would be great.

Do you guys think I should keep this plastic thing over the diffuser on the car? I know K-BASH still has his on, I do not see the benefit of it. It's just another thing that could break

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@vwturbowolf I have a 1/7 motor mount that I took of a Limitless that I will be holding on to, let me know what you come up with, I will also hold off on buying Kaniz spool and shaft cos I would rather have the adjustable motor mount over his spool and if we can make them both work that would be great.

Do you guys think I should keep this plastic thing over the diffuser on the car? I know K-BASH still has his on, I do not see the benefit of it. It's just another thing that could break

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@LibertyMKiii are airo master, @vwturbowolf highest speed, and @K-BASH the guys the runs everything he can get his hands on.
Would you guys give any input?
 
@LibertyMKiii are airo master, @vwturbowolf highest speed, and @K-BASH the guys the runs everything he can get his hands on.
Would you guys give any input?
I'd keep it on,adds downforce to rear,all air that's passing throu under body gos over it.its also a very light peice.just my opinion
 
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