Vendetta My low cell Vendetta build

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@vwturbowolf I have a 1/7 motor mount that I took of a Limitless that I will be holding on to, let me know what you come up with, I will also hold off on buying Kaniz spool and shaft cos I would rather have the adjustable motor mount over his spool and if we can make them both work that would be great.

Do you guys think I should keep this plastic thing over the diffuser on the car? I know K-BASH still has his on, I do not see the benefit of it. It's just another thing that could break

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It will smooth the airflow over the rather rough top side of the diffuser, but that is only for the turbulent air traveling inside the body. I wouldn't worry about it. The difference would be very minimal. The extension beyond the diffuser may help to get the air up and away from the body, but I doubt that is much help given the rear body edge is a clean straight line.
 
Thank you, guys for answering my question about the diffuser cover thing, I will be keeping it on but if I break it, I will not replace it.
@Velodromed How in the world do I get the grease out of the diff? It is just a sticky slimy mess.

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Thank you, guys for answering my question about the diffuser cover thing, I will be keeping it on but if I break it, I will not replace it.
@Velodromed How in the world do I get the grease out of the diff? It is just a sticky slimy mess.

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From my experience, you cannot really wash the grease off, but you can transfer it to something else.
In my opinion, the best method often is a paper towel and wiping it off through each crevice and tooth. You might be able to use q-tips for some areas also. Curious if @Velodromed has a better method.
 
Thank you, guys for answering my question about the diffuser cover thing, I will be keeping it on but if I break it, I will not replace it.
@Velodromed How in the world do I get the grease out of the diff? It is just a sticky slimy mess.

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If it’s an unused differential with relatively clean oil or grease inside, I’ll pull everything out and wipe it down real good. I really don’t care if there’s a little residue left. It’s easy to put back together because the pins and gears are all the same size. First the O-ring goes in, on top of the O-ring there’s a thin washer, then the two bottom gears/pins and then the two top gears/pins. On the ring gear side there are the same O-ring and washer on top.
Curious if @Velodromed has a better method.
Not really. If the diff is new with clean grease or oil inside I just wipe everything down. If it’s a well used differential I will actually throw the bits and pieces in a sonic cleaner with degreaser to get all the crud off.
*Super important- When putting it back together and refilling with oil make sure to not get any oil in the pin holes or the screw holes. Bad things could happen. If oil does inside the holes I pull off the fluffy part of a Q-tip, leaving just a little bit of fluff, and use that to get the oil out.
 
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Thank you, guys for answering my question about the diffuser cover thing, I will be keeping it on but if I break it, I will not replace it.
@Velodromed How in the world do I get the grease out of the diff? It is just a sticky slimy mess.

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I too just use paper towels and a hex driver to get down into the nooks and crannies. I'm not too worried about trace remains. The percent by volume shouldn't really affect whatever you fill the diff up with afterwards to any noticeable degree. If you're really anal about things like this, you could always try it with some silicone remover. I've read several people on here have great success using high powered ultrasonic baths to get their stuff clean. Yes, that's a bit more of an investment, but when it comes to cleanliness, I imagine that they're tough to beat.
 
Another reason I only use 20 million. Can pull the old right out usely in 1,2 peices,won't leak out ever,won't run down any holes,car will never diff-out.little slip-more grip,projecting car more straight...
 
The stock plastic turnbuckles are adjustable. They don’t look like it but they are. Of course those GPM are way high on looks factor. I know I’ve seen those on eBay in all different colors…
If you can find them in blue send the link please, I can't even find the Vendetta ones on e-Bay.
 
If you can find them in blue send the link please, I can't even find the Vendetta ones on e-Bay.
No luck man, only see silver ones everywhere I look. Must have been the granite mega ones I saw awhile back. Sorry bud.
 
I was wondering if a TP36XX was too small for this car and or if the extra kv that I would gain is worth the loss of torque form downsizing and upping the kv?
Here I asked about the MMX8S kv limit: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/speed-runners-how-fast-did-you-go-today.24467/post-832762
Have not done anything to the build since my list post but I have been talking to Kaniz RC and he says that he will ship it so I can install it on a 1/7 motor mount so we will see. I see that you got yours @vwturbowolf how do you like it?
 
Got some work done on the car today, thanks @K-BASH for the help with the wheel hexs.
I got the rear end back together and, on the car.
Got the 17mm adapters mounted.
got some rake in the car.
and got the servo hooked up (that was a pain).
Even with the hub change, it still looks like I will need to cut some of the body. @K-BASH can you comment on that?
The next step is to get the drive shaft and mount it in the car, I think that is where I have a 1 up on @vwturbowolf @K-BASH is that I am not limited to the stock housing.
 
Got some work done on the car today, thanks @K-BASH for the help with the wheel hexs.
I got the rear end back together and, on the car.
Got the 17mm adapters mounted.
got some rake in the car.
and got the servo hooked up (that was a pain).
Even with the hub change, it still looks like I will need to cut some of the body. @K-BASH can you comment on that?
The next step is to get the drive shaft and mount it in the car, I think that is where I have a 1 up on @vwturbowolf @K-BASH is that I am not limited to the stock housing.
Anytime brother..with module ya really need to stay around 3200-4000kv ,but that's right where ya wanna be for lower voltage...your only real advantage is you could run 2000ish kv motors...but why run a 8s motor on 3,4s...so imo your just adding weight to car...an remember you will have to add unnecessary weight to the front of the car the faster ya go.more weight,less amp headroom to gear up to go faster....
@TN-RC go check out the 4s challenge an look at the log from today with tp4050-3800kv in swb gt on 4s..pulled over 6000w on a crappy hit.almost crashed it,so it wasn't a good hit at all..it's a 5100w max motor an I figure motor would be screaming hot,it wasn't even 120 degrees.i bet it's more like a 8000w motor..crazy power for a 4050
 
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Here are some photos, put some old Hoons on to get the rake the rear might be too high, but I won't have a blow over. The tie rods I had to grind off some plastic so they will fit in place of the shocks. When I get the GPM tie rods, I will have to really crank them out, because of the spot the hole is at the Granit hub.
@K-BASH I was wondering, it looks like I still need to cut the body some in the front even though I have the other hubs on the car.

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Here are some photos, put some old Hoons on to get the rake the rear might be too high, but I won't have a blow over. The tie rods I had to grind off some plastic so they will fit in place of the shocks. When I get the GPM tie rods, I will have to really crank them out, because of the spot the hole is at the Granit hub.
@K-BASH I was wondering, it looks like I still need to cut the body some in the front even though I have the other hubs on the car.

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Yes a little trimming was needed for the grps..if ya don't have some curved sissors,scissors, some cheap ones of Amazon.i tried every par of scissors in the house an all I did is a $hitty job cause I couldn't wait...so the lexon curved scissors are a must
 
Here are some photos, put some old Hoons on to get the rake the rear might be too high, but I won't have a blow over. The tie rods I had to grind off some plastic so they will fit in place of the shocks. When I get the GPM tie rods, I will have to really crank them out, because of the spot the hole is at the Granit hub.
@K-BASH I was wondering, it looks like I still need to cut the body some in the front even though I have the other hubs on the car.

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Wow,car looks really narrow with the 100mm hoons.
 
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