Kraton My M2C / Voltage Hobby rebuild / thoughts (pics)

[2015GTRBE]

So I figured while I had the truck apart I might as well snap pics and talk about it. First, I was too lazy to set up proper lighting so the pics are alright but could have been better.. oh well.


So for those who know and don’t (obviously this thread is more for you), M2C Racing has been making aftermarket chassis for the racers for quite some time and recently have taken interest in Arrma and have made this beautiful chassis. It is 4mm thick 7075 aluminum which is harder than 6061 and lesser grades found stock on the Kraton. It utilizes all existing hardware and the swap is very simple. Do I recommend it? absolutely it is a must have item. I will try to give you an idea on the mods I feel are worth it to help you when making a decision.

My car is a V3 Kraton with the following mods to chassis:

1. M2C chassis (www.m2cracing.com)
2. M2C motor mount (coming soon?)
3. eBay sourced motor mount
4. Custom center diff mount made from OEM motor mount and de anodized
5. RPM arms front/rear + mud guards
6. Voltage Hobby shock towers front/rear
7. Voltage Hobby wing mount
8. Voltage Hobby servo mount
9. Fast eddy bearings
10. Hot racing aluminum front knuckles
11. Tekno RC shock rod ends/ pivot balls
12. Tekno RC wing mount

Why should you spend $100.00 -$115.00 on this chassis? Well I can simply say so you won’t have to spend $100.00 on other broken parts from running the stock chassis with bashing that involves jumps, skatepark, or general poor driving. If you bang your drive shafts into the diffs from chassis flex then that is a $40.00 repair and replacing the stock chassis is another $40.00. Destroy 2 diffs and that is $120.00. You know how the rear body holes rip? Chassis flex, and guess what? That is an additional $50.00 and It will happen again. Solve the issue sooner than later so it won’t cost you more than this chassis.

Forward flex is greatly reduced by manual testing. Lateral flex is also greatly reduced by twisting the chassis by hand with the bulkhead installed. Reduced flex not zero flex. I do highly recommend the additional chassis braces like you see in the photos, however they are also not a complete answer to the problem, but certainly a must have item in the meantime.

Chassis by M2C
Chassis forward flex reduction: A+
Chassis lateral flex reduction: A
Machining quality: A+
Fit and Finish: A
Would I buy it again? Absolutely, extremely valuable and nice part.

Voltage Hobby
1. Chassis braces forward flex reduction:
Front: A
Rear: B (inherent to the Arrma design, not the brace itself)
Machining quality: A+
Fit and Finish: A for anodized, B for raw
Would I buy again? Yes, you need these however other companies offer similar items.

2. Servo mount/ brace
Rigidity:A+
Machining quality:A+
Fit and finish: A for anodized, B for raw
Would I buy again? Yes it is needed, however other companies offer similar and more options.

3. Wing mount
Rigidity:A+
Machining quality: A+
Fit and finish: B... only offered in raw finish
Would I buy again? Yes, and other companies offer similar with additional options.

Pics / info will be updated as I go including a how-to on fabricating a Tekno RC wing mount

 

[2015GTRBE]

 

[2015GTRBE]

Does anyone want a how-to on de-anodizing and fabbing up your own diff mount like this? Let me know. If you do not purchase the motor mount from M2C, you can purchase the one I have and save yourself $20.00 by not purchasing the Hot Racing part effectively making your new motor mount only cost $20.00 in theory.

 

[joostin420]

Check out one of my deanodizong posts:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/deanodizing-fun.7870/