My MIP drivers suck, are there better options?

[21STalion]

The harder a metal is the typically the more brittle it is, that's just physics. At least with steel.

Super hard tool steel will snap. Usually after it's been dropped too many times on a hard surface causing microfractures.

Snapping an MIP tool is almost proof of the quality of the steel. The lower quality will just round or bend instead, indicating the lower grade of steel

Like I said, a master craftsmen will make it last a lifetime.

Don't abuse your tools and maybe practice on some cheap stuff before you move to the big boy tools and complain they suck from lack of experience.

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/7...nerally hard,toughness than other tool steels.

 

[dk3000]

I enjoy Wera for the fact they are for low torque

 

[Moirae]

The harder a metal is the typically the more brittle it is, that's just physics. At least with steel.

Super hard tool steel will snap. Usually after it's been dropped too many times on a hard surface causing microfractures.

Snapping an MIP tool is almost proof of the quality of the steel. The lower quality will just round or bend instead, indicating the lower grade of steel

Like I said, a master craftsmen will make it last a lifetime.

Don't abuse your tools and maybe practice on some cheap stuff before you move to the big boy tools and complain they suck from lack of experience.

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/7-things-to-consider-when-choosing-a-tool-steel-grade/#:~:text=Tool steels are generally hard,toughness than other tool steels.

You're coming off as real condescending. I'm not sure how I can screw in a pinion grub screw incorrectly enough to snap a tool tbh. According to you I have abused my tools and its totally my fault the tool snapped from me hand tightening a grub screw.

 

[21STalion]

You're coming off as real condescending. I'm not sure how I can screw in a pinion grub screw incorrectly enough to snap a tool tbh. According to you I have abused my tools and its totally my fault the tool snapped from me hand tightening a grub screw.

Sorry for sounding condescending, I'm having a terrible day trapped at my in-laws all weekend. Nearly willing to shoot myself at this point.

I can't answer what happened with your tool and didn't intend to. My intention was to point out that snapping instead of bending or rounding is a sign of the quality tool steel, it doesn't indicate an inferior product.

Likely it fractured somehow previously. It could be that you dropped it on something hard or someone did before you. Also those plastic caps they come with are important. They aren't included for fun.

I snapped my $100 god hands (fancy Japanese nippers) a few months ago and I was so choked, and I was cutting plastic. Not the tools fault.

 

[Rowdyray]

Well...I've been using the same old "L" shaped hex wrenches since the early 80's. Not sure what your doing with them. I do have a ball set for the difficult angles. Clean the crap out of the heads. Even a toothpick works.

 

[Warby]

Well...I've been using the same old "L" shaped hex wrenches since the early 80's.

You must be a glutton for punishment. I hate those things.

 

[joshludden]

You must be a glutton for punishment. I hate those things.

Yep, mine usually go right in the trash

 

[Moirae]

Sorry for sounding condescending, I'm having a terrible day trapped at my in-laws all weekend. Nearly willing to shoot myself at this point.

I can't answer what happened with your tool and didn't intend to. My intention was to point out that snapping instead of bending or rounding is a sign of the quality tool steel, it doesn't indicate an inferior product.

Likely it fractured somehow previously. It could be that you dropped it on something hard or someone did before you. Also those plastic caps they come with are important. They aren't included for fun.

I snapped my $100 god hands (fancy Japanese nippers) a few months ago and I was so choked, and I was cutting plastic. Not the tools fault.

All good bro, NGL I probably did drop em at some point but it's crazy to me that they're that fragile. I really didn't realize I have to baby the hell out of them lol.

 

[joshludden]

All good bro, NGL I probably did drop em at some point but it's crazy to me that they're that fragile. I really didn't realize I have to baby the hell out of them lol.

Since I broke mine as well I've been using the speed tips in a ratcheting driver & haven't had a problem, knock wood. & I'm definitely getting a better feel for "tight enough" on the hardware, ya know cuz I ate my Wheaties this morning

 

[Rottster]

An opinion, from a heavy machinery builder/assembly/machinist in the air and space union "IAM" and 40+ years making my living as a fabricator and mechanic....
A: All tools break
B: Never expect a precision tool to work on an angle it was not designed for.
C: I've never had an issue with a MIP tool, although I could see someone put a 2mm driver in the bottom of a RC car on a tilt and put pressure on it. Snap goes the dragon.
D: I deal with torques from 850 Ft/lbs to just 8 ft lbs every day and even less on some other hobbies I have.
E: ALL of my daily measurement tools have to be ISO certified every 6 months in some instances to +- .0001".

Take from this what you will, but MIP is not the issue.

 

[slick2500]

An opinion, from a heavy machinery builder/assembly/machinist in the air and space union "IAM" and 40+ years making my living as a fabricator and mechanic....
A: All tools break
B: Never expect a precision tool to work on an angle it was not designed for.
C: I've never had an issue with a MIP tool, although I could see someone put a 2mm driver in the bottom of a RC car on a tilt and put pressure on it. Snap goes the dragon.
D: I deal with torques from 850 Ft/lbs to just 8 ft lbs every day and even less on some other hobbies I have.
E: ALL of my daily measurement tools have to be ISO certified every 6 months in some instances to +- .0001".

Take from this what you will, but MIP is not the issue.

I beg to differ, if you have 2 tools from 2 different companies that both see the exact same work and usage and 1 wears out 10 times faster than the other then the tool in question is in fact the issue. If I had to guess we were just the unlucky ones that got the bad ones out of the batch.

 

[eyeopenher]

I’m gonna get jumped on here but I have been using the traxxas set for a few years now. Integy for 10 or so years before that…
the traxxas 1/4” ones have held up amazing… even to being used in an impact and all. No complaints what so ever… I did spin a shaft in the 1/4” holder piece. But traxxas replaced it with a new 3 piece set. No questions asked…
I have a set of MIP, new in the packages… bought them 3 years ago. One day, if the traxxas ones start to fail, I’ll try them out. My good buddy who I go out rc’ing with, has snapped three 2.0 MIP’s so far. But that very well could be user error. He so strong!
Also I have been using the dynamite “traxxas” set for years. They are much longer in the shaft. So they can get to those hard to reach places without taking parts off…

 

[SrC]

Wera is good stuff also. Not as mainstream here in the States.
Some say the Hudy brand is also good.
No experience either of them however.
MIP is well known going back to the early era of RC building. The '90's. Way before many other brands even existed. MIP was always an RC brand. So they were meant for the avid RC user.

I’m gonna get jumped on here but I have been using the traxxas set for a few years now. Integy for 10 or so years before that…
the traxxas 1/4” ones have held up amazing… even to being used in an impact and all. No complaints what so ever… I did spin a shaft in the 1/4” holder piece. But traxxas replaced it with a new 3 piece set. No questions asked…
I have a set of MIP, new in the packages… bought them 3 years ago. One day, if the traxxas ones start to fail, I’ll try them out. My good buddy who I go out rc’ing with, has snapped three 2.0 MIP’s so far. But that very well could be user error. He so strong!
Also I have been using the dynamite “traxxas” set for years. They are much longer in the shaft. So they can get to those hard to reach places without taking parts off…

Many do say the Trx drivers fair well also.
Your luck with tools usually comes down to how well you use them and care for them.
Yet some will crap out if you just sneeze at them the wrong way.

 

[Diem Turner]

Wera is good stuff also. Not as mainstream here in the States.
Some say the Hudy brand is also good.
No experience either of them however.
MIP is well known going back to the early era of RC building. The '90's. Way before many other brands even existed.

I pretty much use Wera exclusively for my hand tools. I have a set of cheapo drivers for banging pins out and the like and some mid-grade bits for my DeWalt gyro, but for actual tightening down and loosening of screws, I always reach for my Wera tools. Their ratchets are a thing of beauty too. Very well thought through design and quality feel when you're working with it.

 

[SrC]

Interesting. I wonder if there is something about the 2.0 tip or because the 2.0 gets used more.

depending on the rigs you have , yeah wear will result more with the ones used the most.. Tools will always wear at some point. nothing is forever. Just that the cheapos generally wear out way faster and are not machined to best tolerances.
Over torquing screws is a bad idea. After years of doing this you get a better feel for this.
There is just something about the feel with the handles of MIP drivers. And with less fatigue, compared to the others.
My Vanquish Products drivers are real nice also, Being longer and all. Serve a purpose at times. They have BB raced top caps for speedy use.
BUT....
the handles are thin, and not as ergonomic as I would like. I imagine to reduce torque pressure on these small screws. Less chance for stripping out screws I imagine. With MIP's you really need to watch your muscling with them. Handles can produce some real torque if not mindful of this.

 

[Jerold]

My hand drivers are Wera. The are available from McMaster Carr as the ultragrip. Confirm with them via email that is still the case their support is awesome!
https://www.mcmaster.com/screwdrive...-screwdrivers-9/system-of-measurement~metric/

Bondus is another good brand

 

[SirCrashALot]

If you want something different, give Wera a try. They're a high quality German tool company that I've been really happy with. One thing that might be worth mentioning is to make sure the hex socket is clear of any dirt or debris before you work on it to ensure than the tip of the driver seats properly in the screw. I like to use fine point tweezers to loosen anything and then blow it out. Just a thought.

I' ve been using three wera screwdrivers and 3 bits for about a year now. All in 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5mm. The bits have rounded out already. The screwdrivers, that seam to have a hardened tip, are still fine. I started to just use the screwdrivers with the thin handle to tighten screws. It prevents overtightening. Which imo is the main cause for rounding out.

 

[Heliguy]

A good chance that it’s crappy hardware.

Highly doubt it’s the MIP tools. My set is over 10 years old and have a ton of use.

A tool is only as good as the hardware.

 

[Jerold]

A good chance that it’s crappy hardware.

Highly doubt it’s the MIP tools. My set is over 10 years old and have a ton of use.

A tool is only as good as the hardware.

The hardware is the some of the best you can get as a normal person. I had the same question and did some research into it.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/jerolds-limitless-build.49292/#post-704159

Synopsis
The screws are generally 10.9 hardness, which is the second highest. They could get 12.9 hardness but they are less ductile and will break easier. So this might be a trade off or toughness vs hardness. The problem is the design of flat and button head screws, they have shallow hexes. That combined with Arrma's thread locker fetish makes for a bad combination that leads to some rounded screws. Using socket head screw would better but there isn't enough room for that in all places... and it would look ugly.

It's best to hit any metel to metal screws with some heat before you try to remove them and don't use power tools or ball hexes.

 

[Diem Turner]

I' ve been using three wera screwdrivers and 3 bits for about a year now. All in 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5mm. The bits have rounded out already. The screwdrivers, that seam to have a hardened tip, are still fine. I started to just use the screwdrivers with the thin handle to tighten screws. It prevents overtightening. Which imo is the main cause for rounding out.

I use these. I really like the ergonomic handle and how well you can both grip and press down on them. I also have the normal L-shaped allen keys but I really only use the 2.5 for the wheel hub grub screw.