My new Kraton 6s upgrade, repair, and build log. Aluminum, T-Bone, RPM, and more.

[Custnam]

OK, after finally unboxing my new V4 Kraton 6s after deciding to buy it instead of the 8s Ive started the build I have planned. First off I bought a ton of aluminum and others parts I will list below. I have already ran into a couple problems Ive discovered but thankfully can fix. And both have to do with Arrma using too much thread lock. The first one was the steering posts. I was trying to install bearings and both of the bottom screws stripped out. So I tried to just take the upper ones off which I was able to do. Anyway after a lot of heat from my heat gun I was finally able to get the bottom steering screws out.

The second one I had problems with was the grub screw that holds the rear input shaft cup on. Again there was way too much thread lock on. Even after finally getting it out with heat and some elbow grease the input gear was super stuck in the cup. Again lots of heat and banging got it out. The thread lock they used on the screw also got onto the the gears shaft and locked it in there. So I have all parts needed to get all this fixed, and while I was in there I checked out the diffs, refilled, and got the front, center, and rear ones all ready.

For the upgrades the only thing I have been able to actually complete is installing my Hexfly HX3225 25kg servo with a red Armor Werks Aluminum servo mount (Pic added for that). And installed TRB RC sealed bearings for the steering. Ill update this as parts come in and I am able to install them. But for now its coming along well after those issues detailed above.

Upgrades and parts list ordered and planned:

1) Armor werks Aluminum servo mount red INSTALLED
2) Hexfly HX3225 25kg servo INSTALLED
3) Flysky FS-GT5 Receiver INSTALLED
4) Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Mount red INSTALLED
5) Aluminum Rear Chassis brace red INSTALLED
6) Aluminum Front Chassis brace red INSTALLED
7) Aluminum Front Lower Arm Suspension Mount red INSTALLED
8) Aluminum Front Upper Arms Rear Bulk Mount red INSTALLED
9) Aluminum Center Diff Mount Red ORDERED
10) Arrma AR320366 Wheelie Bar Set INSTALLED
11) RPM 81472 Front Bumper INSTALLED
12) T-Bone 10045 V3 Chassis Skid ORDERED
13) T-Bone 10018 Rear Basher Bumper ORDERED
14) TRB RC Sealed Bearings for Steering INSTALLED
15) Hot Racing aluminum diff cups INSTALLED (60F/200C/30R)
16) Dusty Motors shock covers INSTALLED

 

[bicketybam]

Is there is a reason why you didn't order a chassis?

 

[Custnam]

Is there is a reason why you didn't order a chassis?

Yes. Ive never bent one...... YET. And I don't have the $$ now. Im sure I will eventually.

 

[bicketybam]

Yes. Ive never bent one...... YET. And I don't have the $$ now. Im sure I will eventually.

If you plan on jumping it more than 5 ft, it's going to bend. Same with the towers. The best mod I have on all my trucks is an m2c chassis.

 

[Custnam]

If you plan on jumping it more than 5 ft, it's going to bend. Same with the towers. The best mod I have on all my trucks is an m2c chassis.

Like I said I am pretty sure Ill get one. You would think after all those chassis's bending that by the V4 line up that would have been fixed. Its kind of silly to have to spend another $130 just to have a straight chassis. I know they tried with the tower to tower, but still. So will the aluminum chassis braces I ordered help with this? Or does it bend anyway? Thanks

 

[bicketybam]

Like I said I am pretty sure Ill get one. You would think after all those chassis's bending that by the V4 line up that would have been fixed. Its kind of silly to have to spend another $130 just to have a straight chassis. I know they tried with the tower to tower, but still. So will the aluminum chassis braces I ordered help with this? Or does it bend anyway? Thanks

Unfortunately it will still bend.

 

[Custnam]

Unfortunately it will still bend.

OK Got it. So whats your thoughts on JBIRC vs M2C?

 

[Notorious J]

OK Got it. So whats your thoughts on JBIRC vs M2C?

M2C for sure. I already know Ed would say the same. Nice build btw. Looks good and definitely well thought out ???

 

[Custnam]

Question for anyone. While checking the rear diff I noticed that when I manually rotate both outdrives by hand its smooth and easy to turn about 75% of the way but then hits a very rough spot and almost gets stuck in that spot. Ive confirmed its not the internal diff gears and is most likely either the main gear or the main input gear.

Ive ordered another just in case. But is this normal in a new Arrma? I did the same with my Notorious and its butter all the way around. So I thought maybe its because the Notorious is broken in.

 

[Jimbobjr]

They both make quality stuff. M2c for me, it’s lighter and I haven’t bent one yet.

Question for anyone. While checking the rear diff I noticed that when I manually rotate both outdrives by hand its smooth and easy to turn about 75% of the way but then hits a very rough spot and almost gets stuck in that spot. Ive confirmed its not the internal diff gears and is most likely either the main gear or the main input gear.

Ive ordered another just in case. But is this normal in a new Arrma? I did the same with my Notorious and its butter all the way around. So I thought maybe its because the Notorious is broken in.

When I built my talion with parts I bought diffs from Jenny’s and one was like that. I used it with the expectation of replacing it. It’s been great, smooth now...

 

[Custnam]

I just tested the front and its even worse. Very rough even with new grease. So Im guessing its normal until its broken in.
Ok. So just as a test I removed the axle shim and its super smooth without it. I know its important but is that normal?

 

[Captain Dirt]

I just tested the front and its even worse. Very rough even with new grease. So Im guessing its normal until its broken in.
Ok. So just as a test I removed the axle shim and its super smooth without it. I know its important but is that normal?

Shims should only be used to get rid of slop in the gears. If your shim is causing binding then I wouldn't use it. If the gears feel rough and notchy, take the shim out and test it, just make sure there's no slop without it. I had a diff where without the shim it would feel smooth but had the slightest amount of play. Putting the shim back in, it felt too notchy, so I left it out. Haven't had any issues yet.

You probably could run it with a slightly tighter mesh but heavy driving would do more harm, I think. To break it in, you would probably have to not push it too hard for a while. If you're gonna send it and push it hard then it's better not to have an overly tight mesh.

 

[Custnam]

Shims should only be used to get rid of slop in the gears. If your shim is causing binding then I wouldn't use it. If the gears feel rough and notchy, take the shim out and test it, just make sure there's no slop without it. I had a diff where without the shim it would feel smooth but had the slightest amount of play. Putting the shim back in, it felt too notchy, so I left it out. Haven't had any issues yet.

You probably could run it with a slightly tighter mesh but heavy driving would do more harm, I think. To break it in, you would probably have to not push it too hard for a while. If you're gonna send it and push it hard then it's better not to have an overly tight mesh.

Thanks I just disassembled it again and looked for any binding or anything like that that might have caused it. I decided to run it with the shims. That's a good idea, I'll just run it really slow for a while and then see if that frees it up. I don't want any slop in there to ruin anything so I'll just run it the way it came from the factory and see how it goes. Thx

 

[Custnam]

Just an update to the log after installing and fixing up a few parts. After the issues I had with the excessive thread lock on the steering post screws and the grub screws for the outdrives I got both fixed. I also installed sealed bearings into the steering, RPM wing mounts, the HR steering link, and got all 3 diffs refilled, shimmed, and all seems good so far. I should be getting a few of my red aluminum parts either today or tomorrow so I can continue this beast. Heres a few pics. The last one is a trivia question. What do you think that little part is? Hint. Its already mentioned in this post, but there is something peculiar about it. Not sure I can put my finger on it. Its missing a vital component. Hint, its what this whole page is called!

 

[Notorious J]

Just an update to the log after installing and fixing up a few parts. After the issues I had with the excessive thread lock on the steering post screws and the grub screws for the outdrives I got both fixed. I also installed sealed bearings into the steering, RPM wing mounts, the HR steering link, and got all 3 diffs refilled, shimmed, and all seems good so far. I should be getting a few of my red aluminum parts either today or tomorrow so I can continue this beast. Heres a few pics. The last one is a trivia question. What do you think that little part is? Hint. Its already mentioned in this post, but there is something peculiar about it. Not sure I can put my finger on it.

View attachment 55700
View attachment 55701
View attachment 55702

That's the whatchamacallit that goes in the thingamob that turns the thingamajigger.

 

[Custnam]

That's the whatchamacallit that goes in the thingamob that turns the thingamajigger.

Wow. I didnt think anyone would figure that out. ? On a serious note that is an Arrma part but is missing a very important component. And its the same name as what this whole page with posts is called.

 

[Custnam]

Wow. Got all my aluminum parts today except for the center diff support. I got the entire front end done and it looks awesome. Ive never been a person that liked red all that much. But I must say adding all the red aluminum to match the other stock red parts is looking amazing. I can already tell once its done Im going to dread when it gets all dirty the first time. But that is the point after all.

Ill be doing the rear tomorrow and after that will be almost done. The Metabo electric screwdriver I bought is amazing. Its SUPER fast with several clutch settings that you can make very sensitive. Even with RPM's soft plastic it doesn't strip. Made this so easy. Parts done today:

Front end with all red aluminum suspension supports.
RPM bumper and A-Arms
Did all the shock covers
GPM red front frame brace

 

[SrC]

Question for anyone. While checking the rear diff I noticed that when I manually rotate both outdrives by hand its smooth and easy to turn about 75% of the way but then hits a very rough spot and almost gets stuck in that spot. Ive confirmed its not the internal diff gears and is most likely either the main gear or the main input gear.

Ive ordered another just in case. But is this normal in a new Arrma? I did the same with my Notorious and its butter all the way around. So I thought maybe its because the Notorious is broken in.

I also got one from Jenny's, so it was a factory RTR unit. It had the same feel you describe. I broke it in well by now and has been just fine.
It appears that no two diffs feel exactly the same. Once broken in they all smoothen out .IMO

 

[Custnam]

I also got one from Jenny's, so it was a factory RTR unit. It had the same feel you describe. I broke it in well by now and has been just fine.
It appears that no two diffs feel exactly the same. Once broken in they all smoothen out .IMO

Yea I had a feeling it just needed to be broken in. I never checked the diffs on my Notorious prior to driving it so I didnt have that as a comparison. Im sure it will be perfect after a couple runs. I also noticed that it got worse depending on how tight the 4 main screws are that hold the upper half on. So that must be putting extra pressure on the shim which also causes the mesh to be tighter.

 

[Custnam]

OK. Shes almost finished. I completed the rear end today installing the aluminum frame brace and suspension mounts and the RPM A-Arms. Got everything assembled. Adjusted steering and end points. It looks awesome. All that is left is the rear TBR bumper and chassis skid, and the aluminum center diff mount. I also decided on different diff oils for the Kraton and Notorious. Been running the stock set up and its time for a change.