My next (and final?) 1/16th scale Brushless. HBX 16889 truck. Fastest one. New ESC, motor, and radio!

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Rather annoyingly he doesn't actually say which wheels/tyres he is using, I have put the XLF16A tyres on mine which are about the same size as what he is using and they give MUCH better air control. It's a backflip monster.
However - using such big wheels means that the suspension can no longer bottom out as its impossible for the chassis to touch the ground. On a bigger, heavier RC this would be unwise but Im not sure it matters on such a light one. The other thing you should be aware of is that EVEN if you trim the lexan body, bigger wheels will necessitate very heavy trimming of the steering which will mean a much poorer turning circle. Even so, Im still sticking with big wheels. And bigger wheels gave me an extra 5mph top speed....

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Rather annoyingly he doesn't actually say which wheels/tyres he is using, I have put the XLF16A tyres on mine which are about the same size as what he is using and they give MUCH better air control. It's a backflip monster.
However - using such big wheels means that the suspension can no longer bottom out as its impossible for the chassis to touch the ground. On a bigger, heavier RC this would be unwise but Im not sure it matters on such a light one. The other thing you should be aware of is that EVEN if you trim the lexan body, bigger wheels will necessitate very heavy trimming of the steering which will mean a much poorer turning circle. Even so, Im still sticking with big wheels. And bigger wheels gave me an extra 5mph top speed....
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Nice wheels! Changed anything inside the car? Or only the wheels/tires?
 
I just bought the truggy version, a few bucks cheaper & it looks better to me

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They all the same with some minor differences;)
I got a SG 1604 brushless and a FTX Tracer non brushless.
Best deal doesn't matter u can use the spare parts some time if upgrading and part gets broken.
My plan is upgrading with QuicRun WP 16BL30 Esc and 2435 4500kv motor with heatsink and metal parts where needed.
When a saw the video with bigger 10cm tires i was sold:)
That is now also part of the plan.
Thx to PatMarcus172 for the tires that i'm gone use.
Anyone using a gyro? And if> does it add anything?


I also ordered a chassis.
With that I'm going to try to place the servo on the side of the motor.
Esc on top/middle so that there is more room for a battery.
That battery does not have to be the full length of the car,
because then the entire balance of the car will be lost.
Slightly thicker battery length maybe 70 cm?
 
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I’ve wanted 1 for sometime but have a q903 that simply won’t die. Planned to get 1 upon its demise but after seeing the new HBX 16889a “pro” with oil shocks & all metal gears i couldn’t resist…

It really is amazing how much fun they are.
 
Rather annoyingly he doesn't actually say which wheels/tyres he is using, I have put the XLF16A tyres on mine which are about the same size as what he is using and they give MUCH better air control. It's a backflip monster.
However - using such big wheels means that the suspension can no longer bottom out as its impossible for the chassis to touch the ground. On a bigger, heavier RC this would be unwise but Im not sure it matters on such a light one. The other thing you should be aware of is that EVEN if you trim the lexan body, bigger wheels will necessitate very heavy trimming of the steering which will mean a much poorer turning circle. Even so, Im still sticking with big wheels. And bigger wheels gave me an extra 5mph top speed....
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You need hex adapters for these wheels.
Which one did you use for that?


Found it.
They are hidden in the old tires:)
So no need for hex adapters...
 
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Already asked but here again:)>
2440 & 2445 brushless motors have 02.3mm motor shaft instead of 02mm for the 2430 & 2435
So that makes the question what motor motor pinion gears is used an important one.
This must be properly connected otherwise you will have problems in no time.
If anyone knows or has already done this conversion, thanks in advance for your answer.
Not sure what pitch the gears are but I know Traxxas makes 2.3mm 48p motor pinions.
 
Is there a reason not to move the servo to the other side to make room for the lipo S2 or S3?
Keeping in mind the balance of the car and a not too heavy lipo.
Esc also fits fine on the servo. Since my esc doesn't get hot.

Hopefully a smart one will make a 3D print to attach the servo to the other side and this will be strong enough.
Glue it in and go :)

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Is there a reason not to move the servo to the other side to make room for the lipo S2 or S3?
Keeping in mind the balance of the car and a not too heavy lipo.
Esc also fits fine on the servo. Since my esc doesn't get hot.

Hopefully a smart one will make a 3D print to attach the servo to the other side and this will be strong enough.
Glue it in and go :)

View attachment 172240
Where do you put the esc?
 
A Lot of people put it in the middle of the car.

Because I have to come up with something to get the
servo there, I build a 2nd floor on top of the sevo for the esc.
So I can unscrew it and get to the servo when needed.
I think I'll weld something tig from aluminum.
To screw the servo to so I can adjust it.
Glue and hot glue this piece of aluminum in the car.
2nd floor for the esc is the least of the problem :)
Anyway, we're going to see it. Still want a better lipo there.
Already ordered the lipo so it should come anyway :)

By the way i have a 3th party esc.
So i want my gyro receiver on top in the middle.

Already said:
Esc also fits fine on the servo. Since my esc doesn't get hot.
 
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That's the problem with a lot of minis, you have to really think about how you lay out your electronics to get everything to fit. I had a hell of a time getting things stuffed into my LC EMB-1, the esc was too big to fit in front on the battery and was almost too big to fit on top of the upper deck, but I got I got it crammed in there.
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That is the advantage of a bash truck that is slightly higher
so that you can store just a little more under the hood.
In the end I will also go for a higher hood later.
For me it's not a speed monster but more of an acrobat :)
Like the Lc Racing Emb Mt which unfortunately costs a bit too much but is very nice.
With a lot of pull.
Pinion from 14 to 13 teeth would also be welcome but hard to get the 2mm version.
I can see u have also a quickrun 16BL30:)

U know if it takes 7.6Hv lipo's well?
Can't find anything about that...
 
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That is the advantage of a bash truck that is slightly higher
so that you can store just a little more under the hood.
In the end I will also go for a higher hood later.
For me it's not a speed monster but more of an acrobat :)
Like the Lc Racing Emb Mt which unfortunately costs a bit too much but is very nice.
With a lot of pull.
Pinion from 14 to 13 teeth would also be welcome but hard to get the 2mm version.
I can see u have also a quickrun 16BL30:)

U know if it takes 7.6Hv lipo's well?
Can't find anything about that...
I also have the EMB-T that is a lot easier to get the electronics in, I have a Hobbywing Max10 SCT in it there is that much more space.
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Nope that is a XR10 Justock 2s.

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That's a different league than what this topic is about :)
Just from that Esc alone I buy 2 cars and upgrades :)
My goal was to ride with my 6 year old and not have to repair or buy parts with every crash.
That has been achieved with this series of cheap RC.
I just want to make them a bit sturdier and longer drivable and a little bit more power.
I'm going to leave it at like that.

Recently purchased an SG 1602 from Banggood. After a week, Esc was defective.
As a result, I got money back for an Esc from Banggood.
Bought a quickrun 16BL30 for that and a DumboRC X6 gyro.
That suddenly makes it a completely different car :)

All I want to do is move Servo to the other side.
A chassis is on the way for that.
With that I quietly figure out how I'm going to do that.
In December 2 * 2S 1550Mah 100C lips with a length of 70mm will arrive,
which I would like to make a good fit.

I put 3S in it for a while but that's crazy.
I think I will try 2S HV 7.6 although I don't think it will make much difference.
I have zero experience with 2S HV lipo's. If anyone wants to inform me please :)
 
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That's a different league than what this topic is about :)
Just from that Esc alone I buy 2 cars and upgrades :)
My goal was to ride with my 6 year old and not have to repair or buy parts with every crash.
That has been achieved with this series of cheap RC.
I just want to make them a bit sturdier and longer drivable and a little bit more power.
I'm going to leave it at like that.

Recently purchased an SG 1602 from Banggood. After a week, Esc was defective.
As a result, I got money back for an Esc from Banggood.
Bought a quickrun 16BL30 for that and a DumboRC X6 gyro.
That suddenly makes it a completely different car :)

All I want to do is move Servo to the other side.
A chassis is on the way for that.
With that I quietly figure out how I'm going to do that.
In December 2 * 2S 1550Mah 100C lips with a length of 70mm will arrive,
which I would like to make a good fit.

I put 3S in it for a while but that's crazy.
I think I will try 2S HV 7.6 although I don't think it will make much difference.
I have zero experience with 2S HV lipo's. If anyone wants to inform me please :)
I bought the Max 10 SCT off eBay for like $40, it is actually a "Hobbywing" Max10 SCT RTR 80a esc, and the Justock esc was $35 off Facebook.
I haven't used HV lipos but from what I understand is they aren't really anything to write home about.
 
I can tell you all about HV lipo’s….They are ok for the first few times you use them, but then they are not safe to charge at the higher voltage. They also have a WAY shorter lifespan.

If you take care of a decent lipo, it will last for YEARS. I have lipos that are over 10 years old that I still use. If you can, get a lipo charger that can tell you what the IR is on the first charge and write it on the lipo. That way, over the years you will be able to see if they are failing. I do have a few that their IR has went up, but I stop using them in anything that will pull to hard on the battery. I use them in park fliers (planes) or a crawling rig. I have even pulled bad cells out of packs and repurposed them for other RCs. Like, turned a 3S pack into a 2S pack for a smaller RC or for FPV goggles, etc.
If you don’t over discharge them, keep them in storage charge (even for years) you will.be surprised how long they will last!!
 
I can tell you all about HV lipo’s….They are ok for the first few times you use them, but then they are not safe to charge at the higher voltage. They also have a WAY shorter lifespan.

If you take care of a decent lipo, it will last for YEARS. I have lipos that are over 10 years old that I still use. If you can, get a lipo charger that can tell you what the IR is on the first charge and write it on the lipo. That way, over the years you will be able to see if they are failing. I do have a few that their IR has went up, but I stop using them in anything that will pull to hard on the battery. I use them in park fliers (planes) or a crawling rig. I have even pulled bad cells out of packs and repurposed them for other RCs. Like, turned a 3S pack into a 2S pack for a smaller RC or for FPV goggles, etc.
If you don’t over discharge them, keep them in storage charge (even for years) you will.be surprised how long they will last!!
Dang and I thought I was crazy with my 5 year old lipo.
 
Quick question - kinda new to this. I know you can brake by pushing forward on the throttle - but does that do any damage at all? Is it ok to slam on full brakes or does that stress the motor or ESC? Grateful for advice.
 
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