Notorious My Notorious Build Bash Log

[Crunchy Gears]

Arrma sale babeeeeeee!

Notorious

Ain't she purty? Not for long! Did a once over, pulled the 652 servo out, good spare for my Granite and plopped in an Amazon 35 kg HD servo. Came with a metal servo arm that clamps down laterally along with the traditional installation screw. Those big wheels SNAP where I put them.

My tx came with a bad steering trim but thankfully I had a spare tx ready to go and HH took care of me in a week. Installed a surpass hobby dual fan. It came with a y adapter but it's trash so I bought a 5 pack off Amazon (lotta amazon) and now I have spares and some for future projects.

I placed a 2x2in 1/4 inch foam square underneath the motor. Super snug should cushion it from jumps at least till it melts. 10 runs in so far so good tho

Took a few packs to get used to the truck then maxxed the punch and installed a 14 tooth Pinion. Got the non D shaped one by mistake. Red loctite on the set screw so far it's holding nice. It's a straight savage.

Easy doubles probably try some triples soon, climbs trees, occasional standing backflips when the batteries are fresh. Popping back from Lid slides are a breeze with this thing and the real steel coming through makes em even more fun.

I have a park in walking distance with a little skate park on it. There's two 2 foot wide DEEP "potholes"(sink holes?) in the field. Hit one while I had my foot to the floor board and she SMASHED into that hole 4 front flips and a 15 foot cartwheel later my front bumper was GONE. Screw snapped clean off at the hinge pin cover. Did it's job though no damage to the arms or anything else.

I still opted to upgrade to the Outcast EXB bumper. I like the spring loops I think they should be standard and the EXB bumper is also way beefier all around.

The actual bumper was still ok I wish it fit so I had a spare. Might take a Dremel to it to make it fit if I get bored. I was able to peel the Notorious plate decal off and put it on the new bumper.

It sticks out a little further than stock too, idk whether I like that or don't but it is way better design all around.

The chassis slap was scraping the rear so I slapped a rpm rear skid plate on there. Thought the mudguards on the Sledge we're cool so I slapped them on too makes clean up alot easier. Theres only 1 screw that lines up with the rpm ones so I cranked it on tight and then in the other screw hole that is there I screwed it in 3/4 creating a shelf for the mudguards to rest on.

Put it to the test too jumping the berm next to the play ground. Committed to a backflip that I had no chance on and turned the top bumper into a shovel. No damage very impressed.

A couple days ago it was cold but I ran anyway in the yard I got a couple flywheels ramps

To do small jumps and singles with.

2nd time I landed on my ass I snapped the wing mount clean off. It's cold and it's survived alot of tumbling so no complaints. Plus where it broke all the bracing is still in tact which was awesome I could keep running. Gonna try boiling the replacement see if I can get it a little more flexible.

I did one last lazy jump before calling a day and hit it wrong. It was almost upside down I should have mashed brake for a front flip but I tried to spin it back around with throttle and lawn darted it. Broke a shock shaft where it threads in.

Jennys was sold out so I ordered just the shafts off Amain.

For giggles and poop I took a ruler to the back of the Granite's ZD shocks. Almost same length so in a pinch I could rob Peter to pay Paul if I wanted.

Today I took my son and his Voltage went out with my uncle and his Maxx for some ramp bashing and general screwing around at the park. Lots of ramp jumps and flips, lid landings , lawn darting and cartwheels we suck

The Granite broke my last CVD snapped the metal Axel clean off again. Smoked his Maxx in a drag race tho. Too much POWER. Peeled out around the ballfield and watched the rear wheel roll away.

So temporarily the rear zd shocks went on the front of the Noto and we finished out the day. Maxx collided with the backstop pole and busted a steering block while we were racing and that was the day.

Some ripping around the skate park before I left. Smashed the rail on the quarter pipe a couple times trying to jump it but all the Noto got today was some rear body mounts knocked loose and I lost a body clip at some point

On a 14 tooth with the dual fans even ripping full throttle on grass for long distances she stayed nice and cool, cool enough for the finger test in fact didn't even have to break out the temp gun.

Diffs are still going strong, and other than I need some better tire glue, everything has held up great. Breakages I have had so far were 100% driving related and other than the bumper took multiple of the same driving errors before the break occurred. Really impressive rig even in non-EXB configuration.

How she looks right now

Lucked out on Jennys tonight scored A pair of front shocks so I'll have spares should I need them even though I got shafts coming for the one I broke.

I'm no Rich Duperbash but in my opinion The Notorious lives up to
Don't just bash, Blast

 

[SrC]

I see you're having fun with your Noto.
I never snapped a shock shaft before. Any of my 6s rigs. Kind of hard to do.... A fluke maybe. May never happen again.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Not enough fun yet???
I did many wing mounts. I have stockers on some rigs and RPM's on others. I boil my RPM Arms and Wing mounts in water for 20 min. Keeps the Nylon more flexible before it snaps. And even RPM's will snap. RPM will replace them if you send them back. I keep back up spares of stockers and RPM's.
But wing mounts and wing do protect the rear Bulkhead and Shock Tower.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

I see you're having fun with your Noto.
I never snapped a shock shaft before. Any of my 6s rigs. Kind of hard to do.... A fluke maybe. May never happen again.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Not enough fun yet???
I did many wing mounts. I have stockers on some rigs and RPM's on others. I boil my RPM Arms and Wing mounts in water for 20 min. Keeps the Nylon more flexible before it snaps. And even RPM's will snap. RPM will replace them if you send them back. I keep back up spares of stockers and RPM's.
But wing mounts and wing do protect the rear Bulkhead and Shock Tower.

It says "Just Send it" so I do

I've had alot of crashes trying stuff that I'd swear we're run ending wrecks only to bounce back like nothing happened. Probably just accumulative damage. The shock that broke got over compressed at the park and I pushed it back out figured it was broken then but ended up being fine. But then i killed it the rest of the way the next day on something that wasn't that bad comparatively.

I ordered the stock mount I'll give it one more try and then maybe give the 3d rc ones a try. They seem pretty tough. I def need one. One run without it and my rear end looks like my Granite's already

 

[SrC]

I don't know that your wallet will appreciate" Sending it" as hard as you do.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

I don't know that your wallet will appreciate" Sending it" as hard as you do.

What the wife doesn't know won't hurt me

Thankfully there's places like Jenny's to keep the hobby reasonable. I shop the deals on there and ebay on parts I figure I'll need ahead of time when I can.


Wing mount and shocks came in today. So Granite got it's shocks back but that's gonna be in pieces for a little while.

Just trying to flex the wing mount in my hands I already regret getting the stock one as a replacement.. definitely going for a 3d or rpm next time. I need something bendy and this ain't it.

I misplaced my little extractor bit. Somehow didn't make it to the tool box so had to get those broken screws out the old fashioned way: Major disassembly, and alot of cursing

Since I had to take the whole shock tower off anyways I took a peek at the diffs and there's a shim already on it. No play, teeth look good and unlike my Granite, came decently greased so just left it be for now.

You can see the little nubs of what's left of the screws in the shock tower.

With the tower pulled it was just a matter of clamping needle nose pliers down hard and making a fiddlestick ton of quarter turns.

I don't remember what was on there stock but I put cap heads on this time.

Broke off a piece of a/c foam and stuck it to the battery tray with a strip of gorilla double sided tape. Just a little something to cushion the batteries a bit. Idk if it'll help but it won't hurt.

Here she is all back together. Ready to rock

All that body damage in the back is just 1 pack with no wing. Body won't last long without it.

Supposed to rain so maybe I'll get her cleaned up tomorrow.

 

[SrC]

Without the wing and mounts the body is done fore.
I ripped the wing and RPM mounts completely off, continued bashing with my Kraton and the body was junk in seconds. Kraton body is way thinner than the Noto. I was driving it hard that day.
Everyone likes the 3drc wing mounts.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

That's a shame, you'd think it'd be the other way around if anything, but I've heard alot of guys wear out stock Kraton bodies fast. I know my boy's Voltage body is practically paper. Wouldn't expect that on a 6s rig tho.

Definitely picking up one of those 3d rc mounts for next time I've been watching videos of guys beating the crap out of them and if it lasts half of that for me I'd be happy

 

[Crunchy Gears]

So the stocker wing mount lasted all of like 3 runs before breaking in the same exact place

So just like before I had to remove the entire rear shock tower to get it off. Second time was easier I left the sway bar on this time as the diff cover only needs to be loosened not removed to get the tower to clear those broken screws. Wire cutting pliers I found work easier to turn broken screws than needle nose since they can clamp right down. It's not like I'm worried about damaging them

This time I got a 3-d rc wing mount. It's super bendy, almost rubbery. Bolted on, it feels like the perfect amount of flex. Ran a pack today at the skate park and took some high speed tumbles but no major stress on it so far I landed on all fours today

They were out of stock on black so I got red and I'm actually pretty happy with the color it's very close to EXB red.

For the super anal to detail guys be advised the wing angle is down from stock by a couple degrees. I don't care because STUNT TRUCK the wing is just for looks/rear bumper but there was a guy who made a post about it a while back and I can confirm that it is ever so slightly off.

I'm talking like 2° down instead of 1° up but it is there. It's not the shock tower because if anything mine is slight bent IN. Probably just the nature of such a flexible material.

Oh and it came with better than stock mounting screws too which is awesome they're the deep dish heads instead of the pan screws that come stock. I'll update as I see how it holds up but as of yet seems super durable.

Big sends off the quarter pipe are knocking the plugs in my fans apart and snapping the zip ties on my cap pack so I put a little electric tape around em and tucked the fan wires under the motor wires. The fans themselves are doing great so far.

Also I noticed my pinion gear slid back a little. Still meshed, the motor mount is tight just the pinion itself is not aligned for full contact. Checked and the grub screw is still tight as well..anyone got ideas on keeping this from happening? I loosened the screw, slid the pinion forward with a flat head screw driver and re-red loctite it but I'd like a more permanent fix than "check every couple runs" if anyone knows a fix.

Other than that she's still going strong. The shock towers appear to be ever so slightly bent inwards. I've had a couple upside down landings from being just short of clearing the concrete picnic table. But hasn't hurt anything the shocks are still lined up fine and do what they're supposed to. The chassis even with the plastic braces is shockingly still straight.
Diffs have seen alot of concrete/blacktop landings and are still flawless. Stock electronics on punch 9 with 14 tooth pinion gives me plenty of air control and as long as my fans are actually plugged in the motor has stayed nice and cool so far.
This thing is a beast.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

4:15 this is what you're NOT supposed to do.

Wednesday I set up a road course out of soccer cones with my uncle racing his Maxx against my Noto. 20yd wide finish line between a cone and a utility pole. (Not my brightest moment) 5th race in 4:15 is exactly what I did.

Good 100 feet of full throttle before I colided. After I stood there slack jawed for a couple seconds in total disbelief that I actually hit that, I sprinted over to the truck hoping to rip out the batteries before the impending blaze of glory..and I gotta give a huge shout-out to Zeee Batteries. Those hard packs were completely unfazed. I pulled them out and when I got home they went back to storage charge without incident.
Velcro held fast though my battery slider upper has seen better days still usable though.

Only thing holding the front assembly on is the tower to tower and the servo steering link

Don't be me, don't stand sideways to the finish line and most of all, don't hit utility poles.

Did a quick look over and hopped onto Jenny's and grabbed stuff that I figured I'd need, If it wasn't for that place I'd be out a truck paying retail price for this. Why but a top plate for $12 when you can get the whole steering assembly for $15 that place is a godsend.

Today I finally got a chance to sit down and fully assess the damage. And I gotta give it to Arrma too. Nothing will survive a 40mph crash into a solid object I don't care what it is and she is not as bad as I thought.

Other than the attenna cover that snapped and the front plastic chassis brace, everything south of the top plate is still intact.

Only part of the suspension arms destroyed is this turbuckle end. The turnbuckle itself is still good.

I already had the pins out so I removed the arms as one big section and taped the pins in with the caster clips so they don't get lost.

Shock tower in front is slightly bent but that could be from before when I landed upside down off the concrete table you see her sitting on above.

The screws sheered off inside the steering columns and going off the schematic it looks like I'm screwed. Top plate is bent to hell anyways so I ordered a replacement steering assembly. I don't have any complaints with stock so I didn't opt for the EXB one.

The front diff case cracked and the screw mounts are sheered off in multiple places. The diff itself however is shockingly unscathed! Same goes for the middle and rear, no clicking or clacking and still nice and smooth.

Arrma did an amazing job with these EXB plastics the front bumper other than a little ripple in the bumper loop and some knicked material where the screws go in on the skid plate is still perfectly fine and completely usable.

All the hinge pin retainers, front and back are bent or destroyed outright but the pins themselves look fine.

I fear that had this been my Granite there would have been nothing left of it. These 6s rigs are on another level.

Got 2 EXB goody bags and a stock steering assembly enroute from Jennys.
My dog is getting older and the poor old girl is having health problems. She's great dog though so I'm trying to keep her long as I can.
So my $600 vet bill is holding me off from what I want to do for now. But when finances and the wife allow, I see some m2c bling in my future.

I'll update with the rebuild when everything gets here.

EDIT: My overtime finally caught up with me so I'm doing the M2C after all
I'll just have a spare stock chassis for maybe some project down the road

 

[Crunchy Gears]

We can rebuild..bigger better faster stronger

M2C Speed Chassis and EXB parts bag from Jennys

The diff cup was a total bear to take off. About melted my thumb trying to get enough heat in there to get the damn loctite off.

Here it is reassembled in the new case. The shim that was in the stock case doesn't fit now so I'm running it no shim a few packs and I'll just check on it periodically as it wears in.

Once I got the diff sorted transferring everything over was easy. Just unscrew and set em in the new holes as you go so you don't have to remember where things are. Everything is compartmentalized. I love the 6s design.

I tidied up the wiring this go around as well and further secured the esc and servo wire out of the drive shaft's way with a strip of gorilla tape.

Here she is back together ready to rock

I ended up not doing anything to the rear ears on the chassis and my exb arms seem to fit fine??

Maybe it'll be a problem if I need to make an adjustment in the future idk droop is fine where it is.

Can't see in the picture out I switched the wing back to the low position. The 3d rc mount technically probably isn't supposed to be that way but it's so bendy I think it'll be fine. I like it lower so I can gun it, send it sliding on its lid and then pop it back up on its wheels. Getting my money's worth outta that "Real Steel"

Had fun at the park today with the wifey. Got to show her where I smashed the pole. And she pulled off some good jumps today. She's not big into it like I am but any day I can get her to go is a win in my book. She drove the Granite so that's over in the Granite build thread.

I gave the Notorious a workout today. Shaved the little ramp for the first time in forever and landed right on the concrete stair corner. Thankfully only thing I lost was a body post screw. And that's the only that was damaged this day. Did jumping, tumblin' and tearing after the wifey. (The Granite on 4s is actually the faster truck I'm pretty sure)
Got som.decent sends on the quarter pipe too. Summer goal is to clear the pole. Be it one or the other. Definitely feel the Notorious' weight on the bigger jumps vs the Granitcast.

Other than the body post screw getting lost no damage on the Notorious and wiring her up properly did wonders went a full battery without fixing motor or fan wires.

M2C chassis is a work of art and the EXB stuff looks damn cool and is at least as strong as stock. My chassis braces are metal now anyway which was the main reason for buying that bag from Jennys. Epic truck, epic day

Also Avah's doing better. Cancer will probably take her before winter but as long as she's still doing well keep her going as long as we can.

Edit: Forgot to add the speed chassis is v4 on m2c's website unlike their Goliath which has been updated for the new design so a couple screws for securing the electronics side go unused but as you can see in the pic, EXB arms fit fine. Maybe they did a half revision under the radar? Not sure but I'm happy I didn't have to file anything after all.

It's a little lighter than the stock chassis I don't see any significant change in handling though. But that's not the point I got the speed chassis for the max durability I could get while not making the truck any heavier. So far been a major success

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Quick bash at the park today before we go pick up the kids. No wifey today so no clips this time.

I popped my first drive shaft today but alot of nonsense was involved I didn't give her enough gas to clear the concrete table and she got wedged in-between the ramp and the front

Almost thought I broke another shock shaft but no, just unscrewed the upper arm pin popped the drive shafts back in and good to go! The shock spring is a tiny bit wonky but the truck still sits even and the shock's doing it's job so I'm leaving it for now.

I usually bring a bag with 4 drivers, a wheel wrench and usually keep my transmitter in there during transport. That was the only incident today. She flew beautifully. Did a couple singles off the little ramp and some doubles off the quarter pipe.

And now that I'm pretty confident with how she handles I took my first jab at clearing the light pole today. I got a 20yd blacktop run up and the field behind that. Plenty of distance to ramp up speed. The problem is the gap between the OTHER quarter pipe and the other side's utility pole is kinda narrow and I am NOT hitting another pole at max speed

2 attempts landed square both times..I am so freaking close. Even still probably getting close to 30ft vertical. Next time the wifey goes out I'll get a clip posted you guys can tell me how far you think the Noto got.

I just gotta get some more speed before I hit the pavement section without coliding with something

No damage, chassis is straight as an arrow. Motor and ESC were on the warm side but could still almost finger touch on 14t pinion. On a SWB truck metal braces and a speed chassis is all you need. M2C is amazing definitely worth it

 

[Crunchy Gears]

I had my first spektrum ESC death. Throttle died mid jump a while back. Finally getting around to seeing what's up. You expect damage when you land upside down from 30ft up.

Chassis is still straight impressively. Exb shock towers have a slight lean to them but they still work fine. I bent a couple shock stand off screws, and one of the wing mount screws. I replaced the spektrum with a spare, and warranty it with HH for now. And am just gonna hold off on the big air for awhile. Do some research and see what in that ballpark is a reliable option. Counting my lucky stars she landed on grass instead of concrete.

Everything is tightened up nice and now we're into something I should have done 20 packs ago or so: Diff Maintenance!

@SrC you were right on the money with the insides looking like tar

Teeth all look good. Let it all drain for an hour or so and then filled with 30k. I'm going to do 60/300/30 and see how I like it.

You know it's kinda surprising to me, the ring and pinion for these 6s vehicles looks smaller than the metal equivalents on the 3s models.

I gotta pull the front out of the Granite and redo it too so maybe I'll take a comparison shot. I mean the 6s diffs do the job but that's just weird to me. I really like the 6s design tho. Way better having a metal cross pin than stock pins in little plastic holes and hoping for the best.

The front diff is draining now and then I'm saving the center for last as that seems to be the most involved as far as disassembly goes. Have to look up on the YouTube's see if there's a short cut to it.

EDIT: After watching a few YouTube vids, it's actually really simple. Just undo the center brace on one side and then the 4 screws holding the rollbar on. My particular model the diff locks in to the driveshafts snugly so I had to also unscrew the plastic front diff carrier..tho all you tube guys just pull theirs out looks like no biggie still easy.

Unlike the front and rear there really wasn't much in there.

Blobbed some 300k and done. FYI the Kyosho brand diff fluid is has no dispenser maybe because it's so thick? Idk just wrapped the bottle with channel locks to get the desired amount. Lol

The BackFlips are in the process of being reglued so I threw on these old Amazon tires off my electrified Tmaxx. Gonna toss in a single 3s pack and put around the yard let that diff fluid and red N Tacky work in and then next nice day hopefully I can test out the new set up

EDIT2: Almost forgot! The rear diff went from 1 to 2 shims gear side and the front went from 0 to 1 shim. I didn't shim any internals though the center had some on the planetary gears already out of the box. I know it's on the forum somewhere but I'll have to look up and get some shims for the internals for next time. Everything is fine now but I'll be in the realm of 75-100 packs before I tear into it again if I don't smash it again before then

 

[SrC]

4:15 this is what you're NOT supposed to do.

Wednesday I set up a road course out of soccer cones with my uncle racing his Maxx against my Noto. 20yd wide finish line between a cone and a utility pole. (Not my brightest moment) 5th race in 4:15 is exactly what I did.
View attachment 215859
View attachment 215860

Good 100 feet of full throttle before I colided. After I stood there slack jawed for a couple seconds in total disbelief that I actually hit that, I sprinted over to the truck hoping to rip out the batteries before the impending blaze of glory..and I gotta give a huge shout-out to Zeee Batteries. Those hard packs were completely unfazed. I pulled them out and when I got home they went back to storage charge without incident.
Velcro held fast though my battery slider upper has seen better days still usable though.

Only thing holding the front assembly on is the tower to tower and the servo steering link

Don't be me, don't stand sideways to the finish line and most of all, don't hit utility poles.

Did a quick look over and hopped onto Jenny's and grabbed stuff that I figured I'd need, If it wasn't for that place I'd be out a truck paying retail price for this. Why but a top plate for $12 when you can get the whole steering assembly for $15 that place is a godsend.

Today I finally got a chance to sit down and fully assess the damage. And I gotta give it to Arrma too. Nothing will survive a 40mph crash into a solid object I don't care what it is and she is not as bad as I thought.
View attachment 215861
Other than the attenna cover that snapped and the front plastic chassis brace, everything south of the top plate is still intact.

View attachment 215862
Only part of the suspension arms destroyed is this turbuckle end. The turnbuckle itself is still good.

I already had the pins out so I removed the arms as one big section and taped the pins in with the caster clips so they don't get lost.

View attachment 215869
Shock tower in front is slightly bent but that could be from before when I landed upside down off the concrete table you see her sitting on above.
View attachment 215865

The screws sheered off inside the steering columns and going off the schematic it looks like I'm screwed. Top plate is bent to hell anyways so I ordered a replacement steering assembly. I don't have any complaints with stock so I didn't opt for the EXB one.

View attachment 215870

The front diff case cracked and the screw mounts are sheered off in multiple places. The diff itself however is shockingly unscathed! Same goes for the middle and rear, no clicking or clacking and still nice and smooth.

View attachment 215871
View attachment 215872

Arrma did an amazing job with these EXB plastics the front bumper other than a little ripple in the bumper loop and some knicked material where the screws go in on the skid plate is still perfectly fine and completely usable.

All the hinge pin retainers, front and back are bent or destroyed outright but the pins themselves look fine.
View attachment 215873

I fear that had this been my Granite there would have been nothing left of it. These 6s rigs are on another level.

Got 2 EXB goody bags and a stock steering assembly enroute from Jennys.
My dog is getting older and the poor old girl is having health problems. She's great dog though so I'm trying to keep her long as I can.
So my $600 vet bill is holding me off from what I want to do for now. But when finances and the wife allow, I see some m2c bling in my future.

I'll update with the rebuild when everything gets here.

EDIT: My overtime finally caught up with me so I'm doing the M2C after all
I'll just have a spare stock chassis for maybe some project down the road

Nice thread.
Yeah Trx registration that permits 100+ speeds is ludicrous. But that keeps Trx's In-House Legal Team of Attorneys busy at the very least. They have to earn their keep when they are not busy suing other RC brands.
I always try and figure out a reason why I would dare want an XO-1. It can't hold a candle to my Lim and Infr.

I am curious how you did not bend that Notorious chassis. Or did you? BTW, The Noto being a Short Wheelbase rig is very hard to control at high speeds. Directional stability sucks at speeds over 50. Loses control easily. Especially with those MT tires. Been there.
Nice video.

 

[SrC]

I had my first spektrum ESC death. Throttle died mid jump a while back. Finally getting around to seeing what's up. You expect damage when you land upside down from 30ft up.

Chassis is still straight impressively. Exb shock towers have a slight lean to them but they still work fine. I bent a couple shock stand off screws, and one of the wing mount screws. I replaced the spektrum with a spare, and warranty it with HH for now. And am just gonna hold off on the big air for awhile. Do some research and see what in that ballpark is a reliable option. Counting my lucky stars she landed on grass instead of concrete.

Everything is tightened up nice and now we're into something I should have done 20 packs ago or so: Diff Maintenance!

@SrC you were right on the money with the insides looking like tar

View attachment 223234


Teeth all look good. Let it all drain for an hour or so and then filled with 30k. I'm going to do 60/300/30 and see how I like it.

You know it's kinda surprising to me, the ring and pinion for these 6s vehicles looks smaller than the metal equivalents on the 3s models.

I gotta pull the front out of the Granite and redo it too so maybe I'll take a comparison shot. I mean the 6s diffs do the job but that's just weird to me. I really like the 6s design tho. Way better having a metal cross pin than stock pins in little plastic holes and hoping for the best.

The front diff is draining now and then I'm saving the center for last as that seems to be the most involved as far as disassembly goes. Have to look up on the YouTube's see if there's a short cut to it.

EDIT: After watching a few YouTube vids, it's actually really simple. Just undo the center brace on one side and then the 4 screws holding the rollbar on. My particular model the diff locks in to the driveshafts snugly so I had to also unscrew the plastic front diff carrier..tho all you tube guys just pull theirs out looks like no biggie still easy.View attachment 223246

Unlike the front and rear there really wasn't much in there.
View attachment 223247

Blobbed some 300k and done. FYI the Kyosho brand diff fluid is has no dispenser maybe because it's so thick? Idk just wrapped the bottle with channel locks to get the desired amount. Lol

The BackFlips are in the process of being reglued so I threw on these old Amazon tires off my electrified Tmaxx. Gonna toss in a single 3s pack and put around the yard let that diff fluid and red N Tacky work in and then next nice day hopefully I can test out the new set up

View attachment 223248
EDIT2: Almost forgot! The rear diff went from 1 to 2 shims gear side and the front went from 0 to 1 shim. I didn't shim any internals though the center had some on the planetary gears already out of the box. I know it's on the forum somewhere but I'll have to look up and get some shims for the internals for next time. Everything is fine now but I'll be in the realm of 75-100 packs before I tear into it again if I don't smash it again before then

I find that taking the Diff oil bottle and propping it Upside Down well ahead of use, maybe for 15+ minutes, allows the thick oil to get to the top, to be squeezed out much easier and less aeration of the oil results when squeezing out the oil. Always let the diff sit open for a long while to let the air come out. Add more as needed. Air is Hardly visible with very thick oil. But trust me there is alot of air that gets into the oil. The air displaces the volume of oil needed and then the diff ends up underfilled. Even a grams worth low on oil makes a difference IMHO.
I also run 60k/300k /30k In my Noto.
But 500k at center in my Kraton. There is a difference that I can see.

I use a Shock vacuum pump to expel Air out of the thick oil. And under Vacuum there is tons of air visible. Air can take up half the volume of oil that it needs if you don't allow for oil aeration. Diff will even feel and operate like it has much thinner CST oil when underfilled..
Just to give you an idea of this, below is my TLRT diff in my Tamiya Large vaccum pump after sitting under vacuum for 40 min. The air bubbles were even way more initially. Huge bubbles popping. I wait till there''s absolutely no air bubbles seen. Then I top off and close it up.
This is just my Diff ritual.

 

[Acidsnow]

At least yer esc died peacefully rather than in a ball of flames @Crunchy Gears!

 

[SrC]

That's a shame, you'd think it'd be the other way around if anything, but I've heard alot of guys wear out stock Kraton bodies fast. I know my boy's Voltage body is practically paper. Wouldn't expect that on a 6s rig tho.

Definitely picking up one of those 3d rc mounts for next time I've been watching videos of guys beating the crap out of them and if it lasts half of that for me I'd be happy

Kraton is double the weight of any 4x4 rig. Once you flip onto your Kraton Lid cracks and splits are inevitable. Been through 3 of them. I now have a Shelf Kraton body for show, and a PL Brute Armor body to bash with.
Kraton Body should have been as thick as the 6s Noto/ OC body.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

@SrC Yeah I bent the stock chassis right where the bulkhead mounts in. I don't fault it for that though. Nothing will survive a full speed collision with a solid object.
It's only a corner so if I had a vise..I'm pretty sure I could straight it out and keep using it. So I still have it for now.
I don't regret my m2c Speed chassis though. The peace of mind is worth it to me.

Yeah she is a little squirrelly topped out but it's worse than that. I thought I was clear of it it was straight up Windex commercial material. I didn't even let go of the throttle till after I had already hit I was so confident I'd get around it. Really surprised I didn't kill my entire drive train.


That's so cool with the vacuum thing man! I don't have anything like that to do that. But I'll keep that in mind for next time to let em sit and get the air out best I can. Can't believe there's that much air, I didn't even see any bubbles when I did mine. I'll have to look into getting something like that down the line.

@Acidsnow yeah I was super lucky. My brand new EXB shock towers got a slight bend so now they're the exactly the same as the stock ones I just replaced and my body clips and body got a little mangled and that was the extent of the damage. Everything else still perfect amazingly. Been picking up alot of shifts lately so just been busy and keep forgetting I need to get my ass in gear and send horizon that dud ESC. I'm not in a hurry since it's going to go in the Granite-cast which is currently benched and in pieces until Jenny's gets parts for the new 4s line. I want that new slipper clutch and I'm planning on retiring the 3s motor to an easy 2s life in my 2WD Senton/Spare Parts truck I built for my boy a little while back,and getting the 2400kv and just gearing up the difference.


Hopefully I'll get a chance to try out the new diff set up this week. Still haven't gotten to run outside of just cruising around gently on that one 3s pack to work everything in.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Update on the Notorious! I tried the 16t pinion after much success on the Kraton and it is just stupidity on wheels. Standing backflips, doubles if it hits right. So much torque in motion the wheelie bar does nothing almost any speed.

Almost unable actually and that's with the punch turned back down to 6.

Ok here's a better picture. Me and my boy walked to the baseball diamond at the park with our rc's in tow. I dropped my radio down to 50% just to make low speed driving easier on the sidewalk until we got there.

Go to the diamond start cruising around, doing donuts, climbing and doing backflips off the chain link fence up until the pinion came loose on me.

Here's the kicker: I had so much power on tap I never even realized I was still on 50%

Pinion slid off at the right time too. My electronics were COOKING. Hottest I'd ever had them. Whatever voodoo magic is allowing the Kraton to run that gearing no problem doesn't seem to apply to the Noto. Maybe the LPs are the max weight and that extra pound the Noto is carrying around is the deal breaker? Not sure

Either way I'm going back to the 14t for this truck, maybe up it to 15t if I ever go down to LPs like the Kraton.

If I'm having a blast with 16t at 50% I obviously don't need the extra teeth

Plus a lot of heat PLUS plus I'm pretty sure my freshly redone diffs we're making unhappy sounds from all the shenanigans but that might of been the pinion since it eventually blew off

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Swapped the pinion back to 14 and took a peek at the rear diff since it was starting to sound ugly.

Never seen this before

The shim got mushed somehow

Teeth honestly don't look bad tho. My RednTacky is BlacknTacky now but whatever ripped the bad shim out and slammed it back in there. No play, no problem right? (wrong)

My boy's in school now so this weekend he wanted to see gma so while he's down there the rest of us packed up and played at the park today.

I hobbled together this thing to try to do some video

It tEchNiCaLlY works..but it honestly sucks. Gonna do the go pro thing next year I think. I'm not gonna do anything major but it's cool to catch on cam when you pull off something awesome.

Vacation is almost over and between upcoming over time and hunting season and holidays idk if there'll be much rc'ing left ( September- October is rain season usually) this year for me so one last big bash with all my rigs before teardowns and maintenance. As you'll see the poor ol' girl only had one run left in her anyway. I've lost count of how many packs I've put through this truck after 50. Even gimping around with a shot rear and half shot front diff still was a blast all the way to end.