My Nova Drag Eliminator

[MrTitanium]

In the process of building a Drag Eliminator Nova from the ground up. Thought I’d share it with you all. This one goes out to @arrmadillo and all you other Deuce lovers out there.

To keep things at a reasonable cost, I started with a factory Slash 2WD factory LCG chassis. After having invested quite a few dollars on alloy parts, I decided that the OEM chassis wasn’t doing the rest of the parts any justice so I ordered a carbon fibre unit.

As part of the powerplant, I chose a Reedy 4.5t unit which gets it power from a Hobbywing BL120. I have a Tekin Black Pro standing by, but want to test the Hobbywing unit before I commit to the Tekin.

As I really enjoy working on diffs, I made drivetrain as bulletproof as it can possibly get. Slipper assembly has been eliminated altogether for quicker reaction times. Gearbox is a HR aluminum unit with 4340 steel Mod1 internal gears and a solid axle connected to MIP CVDs which transmit power to a set of Hoosier slicks. I have a set of JConcept slicks and Traxxas Funny Car slicks but haven’t decided which route to take just yet.

Wheelie bar is not only functional, but adjustable as well. Working on installing a twin chute set up (not shown in photos).

Work in progress. Stay tuned...

 

[DoNoHarm]

Weird thought I’ve always wanted to pursue. Traxxas funnycar wheels on all 4 corners of my Senton 6s. Nice truck by the way ? seriously that body is great.

 

[MrTitanium]

Weird thought I’ve always wanted to pursue. Traxxas funnycar wheels on all 4 corners of my Senton 6s. Nice truck by the way ? seriously that body is great.

Thanks buddy??

FYI: The rear funny car rims have a 14mm hex. The front runners (aka pizza cutters) have no hexes and are mounted on bearings.

 

[DoNoHarm]

Thanks buddy??

FYI: The rear funny car rims have a 14mm hex. The front runners (aka pizza cutters) have no hexes and are mounted on bearings.

Yeah that’s the only reason stopping me from doing it. That’s a great build though.

 

[NewSensei]

Dude, that looks sick! Brings me back to when I was younger and we'd go watch funny cars...love it

 

[MrTitanium]

Dude, that looks sick! Brings me back to when I was younger and we'd go watch funny cars...love it

Thanks. That’s why I build her as it brings me back to my racing days as well.

 

[Doom!]

That is one killer ride! Awesome job.

 

[MrTitanium]

That is one killer ride! Awesome job.

Thanks. Appreciated it??

 

[suchtragedy]

Hey could you tell me what the width is at the wheels? I been considering converting something other than a slash to a drag build but I would need help in figuring out how wide of arms I would need to make good fitment.

 

[jondilly1974]

Nice build ?

 

[MrTitanium]

Hey could you tell me what the width is at the wheels? I been considering converting something other than a slash to a drag build but I would need help in figuring out how wide of arms I would need to make good fitment.

Absolutely! Which dimension(s) do you need exactly?

Nice build ?

Thanks Jon?

 

[suchtragedy]

Just tire width for front and back and tire offset would be great, from there I can figure out what width arms I need. Thanks man!

 

[SARRT8]

Nice build the color looks great looks very mean.

 

[Nineball]

Looking good. I'm happy to see someone else running a 10bl120, since all you hear at the track is the castle startup sound.

Stay away from the traxxas slicks... those are junk, with no grip. I like the DE Racing slicks (smaller, wider than SCT tires), but I've heard a lot of complaints about the foams. The hoosiers are solid, but they make the car sit high and can have a big impact on parachuting at high speed.

Oh. And fyi, you have a lot of positive camber on the back. it'll be even more when the car settles in on a launch. Get it to slightly negative and you should be groovy.

 

[MrTitanium]

Looking good. I'm happy to see someone else running a 10bl120, since all you hear at the track is the castle startup sound.

Stay away from the traxxas slicks... those are junk, with no grip. I like the DE Racing slicks (smaller, wider than SCT tires), but I've heard a lot of complaints about the foams. The hoosiers are solid, but they make the car sit high and can have a big impact on parachuting at high speed.

Oh. And fyi, you have a lot of positive camber on the back. it'll be even more when the car settles in on a launch. Get it to slightly negative and you should be groovy.

The BL120 can handle the power, and at the price, I figured I’d try it out as I’m quite fond of Hobbywing products as they’ve served me well to date.

I’ll look into the DE slicks for sure??

As for the camber, I agree that it’s off. Good eye! I haven’t ran it yet so fine adjustments have yet to take place. But you mentioned negative camber. It looks like tires are leaning in making it positive. Please correct me if I’m wrong...

Just tire width for front and back and tire offset would be great, from there I can figure out what width arms I need. Thanks man!

Dimensions you asked for are as follows

Front width: 10.375”
Rear width: 10.625”

FYI: I’m using RPM arms in the front and rear which are identical in length to the factory Bandit arms, not the Slash units.

 

[Nineball]

The BL120 can handle the power, and at the price, I figured I’s try it out as I’m quite fond of Hobbywing products as they’ve served me well to date.

I’ll look into the DE slicks for sure??

As for the camber, I agree that it’s off. Good eye! I haven’t ran it yet so fine adjustments have yet to take place. But you mentioned negative camber. It looks like tires are leaning in making it positive. Please correct me if I’m wrong...

I'm a hobbywing fan as well. Hard not to be when the 120 is rated for 3.5t or higher. And the next best esc that can handle that is $150, triple the cost. I'm running a surpass 5.5t and I cant believe the performance to cost ratio for this setup. Beats all the VXL setups at the track on a good run, and I haven't started pushing it yet.

Negative camber means the top of the tires are leaning toward the car. It's not so much about how it sits, but how it will move and change as it goes down the track. Looking at your photo again, I could be mistaken since there's a bit of toe-in as well, making it look rather drastic. The toe-in is good, since it will relax under acceleration and basically straighten the wheel. Your suspension setup is whatever it takes to keep the wheel straight when it's getting dragged back and upwards in relation to the car.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Nice looking setup!
My Son has a LCG slash 2wd that has been sitting on the shelf for about a year with zero use.
I keep looking at these builds and considering building one myself. A Cuda body keeps calling my name.

Do these use Bandit a-arms or the original Slash 2wd arms?

 

[MrTitanium]

Nice looking setup!
My Son has a LCG slash 2wd that has been sitting on the shelf for about a year with zero use.
I keep looking at these builds and considering building one myself. A Cuda body keeps calling my name.

Do these use Bandit a-arms or the original Slash 2wd arms?

I get a kick out of researching part fitment and building stuff from scratch. If you feel the same, I highly recommend this build. Maybe have a father-son go at it..?

I run the Bandit arms all around.

Negative camber means the top of the tires are leaning toward the car. It's not so much about how it sits, but how it will move and change as it goes down the track. Looking at your photo again, I could be mistaken since there's a bit of toe-in as well, making it look rather drastic. The toe-in is good, since it will relax under acceleration and basically straighten the wheel. Your suspension setup is whatever it takes to keep the wheel straight when it's getting dragged back and upwards in relation to the car.

I checked the camber with my trusty RPM gage and it’s at true zero. Toe-in is factory set at -3. Must be the light that gave you the impression that it was off.