Kraton My opinion of the 4s hot racing shock bodies

[Surchaufeur]

Since my last post changed to notehr topic i decided to create a new post
I got the rear shocks so far
Pros of the shocks:
1. Reuses the Original shafts
2. They are made of alluminum
3.will fix any leak issues of the stock shocks
4.they look beautiful on the back specially
5.reuses the original spring.
6. They are threaded shocks
Cons of the shocks:
1. I was not able to remove completly all of the air trought the bleeder valve
2. The endcap pivot ball are holded by.. 2 orings so a bit of wable
3. The shock internal orings are compressed a lot making the shaft a bit harder to move than stock
4. Du maybe because of the compressed orings the oil i used on my stock shocks feels a lot heavier in the back now will ahve to drop to 25wt(was at 32.5)
5. And the last. Lost approximatly 1cm of travel in the rear shocks my front suspension is always higher than the rear to match the setup i had before i have to completly thread the shocks retainers to the max.
6. I don't know the part numbers of the orings used and even if you could get every single spare part was a deal breaker for me at the begining.


I love how they look vs stock and they will fix any leakage issues of the stock shocks. The travel and rebound are heavy and slow now im going to lower my shock tune on the rear hopefully i can get the rear higher up without maxing the retainers i don't want to stress too much my poor springs because they are really working hard. Maybe you could use the stock o rings just fine befause they are compressed a lot and they are made of a softer silicone than the hot racing ones. I hope i can fix the hight in the rear because im not really happy about it
Edit: also about the pivot ball holded by orings remplaced them by thicker and smaller one si had from my wltoys 144001 making those orings useful. Took a lot of the slop out in the rear

 

[Surchaufeur]

Anyone who has the shocks what oil tune were the best with these shocks? I got 50wt 40wt and now i bought the 32:5wt 25wt seems really low but shoould be okay?

 

[Surchaufeur]

I would max out the rear spacers but like i said i released them from too much compression

 

[torc]

I just installed these the other day. I am using 40wt.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Anyone who has the shocks what oil tune were the best with these shocks? I got 50wt 40wt and now i bought the 32:5wt 25wt seems really low but shoould be okay?

I run 30wt in them on the 3s line, noticed anything above that I get oil bounce... i have not run them on the outcast yet so cant say what's best for the 4s line..

 

[Surchaufeur]

I run 30wt in them on the 3s line, noticed anything above that I get oil bounce... i have not run them on the outcast yet so cant say what's best for the 4s line..

It was fine for the atock shocks but on the hot racing ones its differants the shock body is thinner than the stock body maybe more oil has to flow on a tighter space making it harder to compress and ruining the dampening
25wt will be my go for the rear while the front shocks springs are a lot smoother i think they will stay 32.5kg because atm they are super smooth

 

[Outcastblxnut]

maybe to much oil in the shock

 

[Camaroboy383]

It was fine for the atock shocks but on the hot racing ones its differants the shock body is thinner than the stock body maybe more oil has to flow on a tighter space making it harder to compress and ruining the dampening
25wt will be my go for the rear while the front shocks springs are a lot smoother i think they will stay 32.5kg because atm they are super smooth

The tolerances on the hr bodies are tighter than the plastic bodies in the piston bore...there is less oil spilled past the piston, they dampen better... so thicker oil is not an option on the 3s line because of the weight of the rig.. you notice the oil bounce with the thicker oil pretty quick.. the plastic bodies we could run up to 60wt without a oil bounce on the 3s line.. nothing worse than having to repeatedly go flip the rig over after big air landings because of some oil weight...

 

[Surchaufeur]

The tolerances on the hr bodies are tighter than the plastic bodies in the piston bore...there is less oil spilled past the piston, they dampen better... so thicker oil is not an option on the 3s line because of the weight of the rig.. you notice the oil bounce with the thicker oil pretty quick.. the plastic bodies we could run up to 60wt without a oil bounce on the 3s line.. nothing worse than having to repeatedly go flip the rig over after big air landings because of some oil weight...

Yeah im going under 30wt now at least for the rear seems 25wt to be really low but they are differant shocks who cant be compared to stock

 

[torc]

I just installed these the other day. I am using 40wt.

Correction. I used 30wt

 

[Surchaufeur]

Todays report:

My bottom shock eyeleds had a little bit of oil deposot on the key. The second shock had a bit more because the shock bottom was more loose... i have no words ?. I was able to untight the shock bottoms by hand i suppose thats the reason and the orings were not compressed. Im in the process of switching to 25wt and i think i got how to bleed them i have to overfill them and only unscrew the bleeder and not remove it. Did my first shock and had a lot less air than yesterday. My local hobbyshop told me they are the harders ones to bleed. I hope now they will work perfectly and have the dampening im searching.
IF THEY LEAK MAN I WILL CRUSH THEM WITH AN HYDROLIC PRESS ?

 

[aznbaker]

I used TLR 42w in the front and Associated 50w for the rear. I have no chassis slap and good compression when dropping/tossing my kraton from chest high or give or take 5ft from the floor. Rebound, that's a different story, lol

 

[Surchaufeur]

And their orings are quite rigid vs stock if they leak.. i will use the stock ones because i think they will work fine and have the same dimentions and they will be compressed vs not compressed on the stock shocks

I used TLR 42w in the front and Associated 50w for the rear. I have no chassis slap and good compression when dropping/tossing my kraton from chest high or give or take 5ft from the floor. Rebound, that's a different story, lol

What do you mean by rebound? It rebounds really slowly?

 

[aznbaker]

Rebound as in, after the shock shaft compresses in the shock body, rebound is the rate and ability to lift the truck back to normal ride height. Oil in the shocks helps to cushion the impact, or slows down the rate the suspension travels upwards, rebound is how fast the shock goes back to ride height by the strength or preload of the spring.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Rebound as in, after the shock shaft compresses in the shock body, rebound is the rate and ability to lift the truck back to normal ride height. Oil in the shocks helps to cushion the impact, or slows down the rate the suspension travels upwards, rebound is how fast the shock goes back to ride height by the strength or preload of the spring.

Thats what i want

 

[aznbaker]

If you put the pieces together correctly on the shock shaft and bled them correctly, they should be sitting pretty close to where my height is set on my kraton. (Last 2 pics is taken after loading/dropped the kraton to the floor about 4 ft above ground). Shock oil weight has nothing to do with your ride height. If your back end (in your photo above) is sagging or drops slowly after shocks rebounds, either you don't have enough oil in the body, seals are torn or, shock spring preload is too loose/weak springs.

 

[Custnam]

Im using 40wt Team Factory part #ASC5423 in my Outcast 4s Hot racing shock bodies. Feels very plush. Handles great. doesn't flip anymore when I flick the brake for a quick turn around. No leakage at all yet either. Sorry for all the bad luck. Sounds pretty frustrating.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Im using 40wt Team Factory part #ASC5423 in my Outcast 4s Hot racing shock bodies. Feels very plush. Handles great. doesn't flip anymore when I flick the brake for a quick turn around. No leakage at all yet either. Sorry for all the bad luck. Sounds pretty frustrating.

Its really smooth now in the back end happy with the dampening. I thought i menaged to bleed them almost 100% but unfortunatly even doing 1-2cms per 30mins while i was watching hockey and i was happy to see burts of air coming out at time until the last and final push. But still.. i turn the shock upside down and i hear air... same for the other one maybe less than yesterday tries. But the front stock ones almost 1-2 cms if full of air inside so i quess i should not really complain

 

[Surchaufeur]

If you put the pieces together correctly on the shock shaft and bled them correctly, they should be sitting pretty close to where my height is set on my kraton. (Last 2 pics is taken after loading/dropped the kraton to the floor about 4 ft above ground). Shock oil weight has nothing to do with your ride height. If your back end (in your photo above) is sagging or drops slowly after shocks rebounds, either you don't have enough oil in the body, seals are torn or, shock spring preload is too loose/weak springs.

Your driveshafts looks really happy.. mine are a bit stretched because of running a tight slipper for maybe a few months going to show a picture how my rear looks like when i can use my mother phone because my ipad mini 4 has a crap camera
I will tag you
Also man my local hobbyshop oil cost like 8$ a bottle tahts the price of thick diff oil not shock oil. Im going to go back to my traxxas dealer their shock oil are 5$ no taxes but he doesn't always have the right weights tho. Today for an adapter to charge my wltoys 144001 baterry to my charger was 6$ cool but teh shock oil 8$ and my total was 16.05$ like cmon thats the price almost of a pair if front upgraded shocks that i ordered now for next friday

 

[Surchaufeur]

If you put the pieces together correctly on the shock shaft and bled them correctly, they should be sitting pretty close to where my height is set on my kraton. (Last 2 pics is taken after loading/dropped the kraton to the floor about 4 ft above ground). Shock oil weight has nothing to do with your ride height. If your back end (in your photo above) is sagging or drops slowly after shocks rebounds, either you don't have enough oil in the body, seals are torn or, shock spring preload is too loose/weak springs.

Preloads almost maxed out to the rear now the car is really plush
A little mod for the pivot ball holded by tiny orings i decided to use my worn orings from my wltoys 144001 shocks and it took almost all of the play out