Mojave My ripped off Mojavatoncast/Long road to the Mojave

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Went ahead and did the 3 snap rings on the servo saver mod. Hoping I can get a little better turning radius out of it. I also ordered one of the nifty little power hobby fan mounts, but I still need to decide on a fan(s) for it. Drug my feet and didn’t order a t2t brace from Jenny’s so no jumps yet. And I need to order a few more smaller pinions. So I pretty much failed this week.
 
Shiny!

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Took it out for another test run today to see how much the steering improved and it seemed very squirrelly. Upon a closer look, the front was the only thing really putting any power out, so I brought it home and started to tear it apart. Lots of smelly and shiny stuff after opening up the housing. Further tear down does show damage.

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Fully expected to ruin some diffs, but I’m surprised how quickly it happened after pretty light test runs. I’m going to blame it on installer error (myself) either way and try again.
 
Went ahead and ordered a replacement bulkhead and different for an Outcast exb from Jenny’s along with a bunch of other crap to build another Frankenstein cause I’m impulsive. Now I need to dig through all of the EXB diff building threads and order the correct shims to hopefully build this back better.
 
Great build thread,
Ahhh, the elusive art of bullet proofing diffs… I have watched many vids myself and although I have had some success and am getting better at it, I’m still a Padawan learner and not a Jedi! There’s an art to it and those exb diffs got a lot of added parts… and I sometimes can’t be sure which end of the plates has the rounded edges or not.. 52 year old eyes and small diff parts are not the best match!
so those bumpers where HDPE? I have a bunch of it but have had little success heating and bending parts I make, is there a trick? I have much more success with Kydex, turns to a noodle when heated and then holds its shape well once cooled. HDPE and similar Teflon type plastics are super tough so I would like to be able to add them to my option list of materials to make bent parts out of.
i tried using HDPE 3/4” rod to add to bumpers etc but had little luck getting uniform bends on the ends of the cut rod pieces, same with parts I made from 1/4” thick hdpe. I usually heat with a old heat gun I keep on my bench, but the parts are tough to bend and they don’t stay bent when they cool. Do you have any tips for how you bent your bumpers?
 
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Great build thread,
Ahhh, the elusive art of bullet proofing diffs… I have watched many vids myself and although I have had some success and am getting better at it, I’m still a Padawan learner and not a Jedi! There’s an art to it and those exb diffs got a lot of added parts… and I sometimes can’t be sure which end of the plates has the rounded edges or not.. 52 year old eyes and small diff parts are not the best match!
so those bumpers where HDPE? I have a bunch of it but have had little success heating and bending parts I make, is there a trick? I have much more success with Kydex, turns to a noodle when heated and then holds its shape well once cooled. HDPE and similar Teflon type plastics are super tough so I would like to be able to add them to my option list of materials to make bent parts out of.
i tried using HDPE 3/4” rod to add to bumpers etc but had little luck getting uniform bends on the ends of the cut rod pieces, same with parts I made from 1/4” thick hdpe. I usually heat with a old heat gun I keep on my bench, but the parts are tough to bend and they don’t stay bent when they cool. Do you have any tips for how you bent your bumpers?

I wish someone would just make a little kit with all of the shims you could possibly need and sell it. That’s the biggest pain to me is tracking down everything and then you go to put it together and you’re missing one. Oh well.

With the Hdpe I just use a heat gun, apply heat to both sides and then a couple boards and clamps to bend it. Once I remove heat I will hold it in position and let it cool maybe 45 seconds and then run it under cold water to get it to stick to the form I want. Can always heat it back up and add or take away some bend.

They are far from perfect but once I run it into a tree a few times, the imperfections will blend right in. Haha. Where did you find the 3/4” rod hdpe? I briefly looked and gave up, but would love to have some to play with.
 
CF tubes for the 8S rig braces are larger.
The 1/8-1/7 scale Arrma T2T's all fit inside 10mm CF I.D tubes. (12mm 0.D)
500mm length tubes can be cut to size matching the Stocker Brace Length.
Think AMZ.

Without the CF sleeves, I was bending/tweaking them with hard impacts. Now they never bend or get tweaked. Every rig I did this to.
Many use the upgrade Solid CF Rod Brace like Basherqueen's. Comes with the HR alloy ball ends complete. Probably lighter....Just costs more money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08H16HPH9/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A26TC3XJVN0S6D&psc=1

This should work, no?
 
Got the center brace from Jenny’s and a new rear bulkhead with differential to swap in. Waiting for a few more things and then I will jump back into this.
 
Ready to go again! Installed a lucidrc max6 fan shroud with a 40x28mm fan, not super impressed with the 3d printed fan mount but oh well. Got the new power hobby fan mount on with a couple of temporary fans, I have another 40x28mm fan I will switch on to that. Center brace installed as recommended. And I installed a new diff/bulkhead I picked up from Jenny’s. I rebuilt the new diff using hzrdos and engineers’ method. I used the same single shouldered washer as hzrdos from McMastercarr. Picked up a spare diff straight from Arrma to be ready for the next failure. If we have some decent weather tomorrow, hopefully I can take it for another test run.

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Almost got a full battery run out of it. Motor got to around 155 before one of the front bearings let loose. Allowed the axle to come out of the output. At first I thought I wrecked the front diff, so I feel like this is a win.

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Very fun amount of power, borderline too much. It was roughly 70 degrees out today so I’m thinking I will still need to gear down, but with the power it has, I don’t think it will be a bad thing.
 
Well I think the blown up bearing may have been an indication of other issues. Shortly into my run yesterday the front diff started clicking. Have a spare I will rebuild and swap in and back to testing.
 
Tge bearing issue may not have been caused specifically by a vehicle issue… it seams like there where a lot of bad bearings in the hubs. I had one first run with one of my kraton exb’s and I have seen a bunch of similar ones so it may have been a bad run of bearings. Mine came apart exact;y like yours did.
 
That could very well be a possibility as well. I went ahead and ordered a 15t and 16t pinion to try out. If I can get more than 2 runs without a differential going I would definitely sacrifice some power.
 
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At the moment it appears it failed at the input to main gear. I’m assuming improper shimming on my part. That’s ok, I’m still learning.

Question, do I want to order a complete new diff housing and replace everything, or just replace the input and main gear, or replace the input and a completely different differential?
 
Tough to see the damage on the main gear, but the teeth missing on the input is pretty obvious. I had enough spare diff parts laying around I was able to get it back together. Still running 30k diff fluid in the front with the lsd plates in max effect.

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Swapped out the 18t pinion for a 15t, hopefully a little power reduction will save on some diff parts.

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Well, still tons of power with the 15t pinion, so I’m happy there, but I don’t think it liked my spare parts front differential, or the used bulkhead. I was iffy about not replacing the bulkhead, but wanted to get it going again. Kind of leaning towards a hot racing bulkhead with the spare GOOD differential I have here, and then upgrading the rear when it becomes a problem again.

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Well after falling in love with my 8s Outcast, I’ve kind of lost motivation with this, so it is on to it’s next life/lives. Here is how the carcass currently sits:

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The 1/5 parts will become spares for my Kraton and Outcast, what you see here will go into my next build and whatever isn’t used or kept as a spare will be stored away for a winter build. I think the only part I won’t end up reusing is the Just Bash It extended 24mm hubs.
 
Well after falling in love with my 8s Outcast, I’ve kind of lost motivation with this, so it is on to it’s next life/lives. Here is how the carcass currently sits:

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The 1/5 parts will become spares for my Kraton and Outcast, what you see here will go into my next build and whatever isn’t used or kept as a spare will be stored away for a winter build. I think the only part I won’t end up reusing is the Just Bash It extended 24mm hubs.
I know the feeling, ever since I got my 1/5 8s rigs nothing else quite compares..
They can handle any terrain you feel like bashing. 😎
 
I know the feeling, ever since I got my 1/5 8s rigs nothing else quite compares..
They can handle any terrain you feel like bashing. 😎

Agreed, and sadly I’m not willing to lose enough to justify selling it so I’ll just turn it into something else I might use more.
 
Coming together again

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For some reason over the last few weeks I’ve become obsessed with having a Mojave. Waited for sales or a good used deal to come along and got impatient and finally ordered the parts to turn this into one (parts ordered about a week before the sale, idiot me)

Kind of a hodge podge of rtr/EXB/m2c/upgraded parts. I’ll work on a build list, but electronics are obviously staying the same.
 
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