Typhon My TLR Tuned Typhon Build

[Hampus]

Nice build. Thanks for all the info. What changes would you do if going bashing . I want to have two set ups for this car. One for track and one for bashing.

 

[Engineer]

Nice build. Thanks for all the info. What changes would you do if going bashing . I want to have two set ups for this car. One for track and one for bashing.

Thanks. If it were a purely bashing setup I would have gone with a non-sensored setup and saved some $$$. But if you’re going with a sensored setup for the track and bashing then I’d just watch temps and if they’re getting high, add a motor fan. You could also go with the XR8 Plus so you can run 6s if you want more speed - but these are thoughts from someone who hasn’t run a dual setup so take it for what it’s worth.

 

[Hampus]

Nice build. Thanks for all the info. What changes would you do if going bashing . I want to have two set ups for this car. One for track and one for bashing

The stock pins are 4x63.5mm while the rc8 pins are 4x65mm. I'm really hoping I don't have to do anything to them as the less things for me to mess up the better. The Rc8 pins are also shorter than v5 typhon pins. I'm assuming the rc8 pins will fit without any modding as the guy in the video definitely didn't mention having to do anything of that. Watching the video I was under the impression he swap them out quick at the race but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks. If it were a purely bashing setup I would have gone with a non-sensored setup and saved some $$$. But if you’re going with a sensored setup for the track and bashing then I’d just watch temps and if they’re getting high, add a motor fan. You could also go with the XR8 Plus so you can run 6s if you want more speed - but these are thoughts from someone who hasn’t run a dual setup so take it for what it’s worth.

Thanks again for info. I hear what your saying. I’m building this car over winter and aim to be ready when spring come. So money is not as limited so to speak. My only worry and something I found out the other day is that most of the good ESC’s are not waterproof. Should that not be a concern? I’ve seen people use liquid tape on the circuit boards but really that seems finicky.

 

[Engineer]

Can’t really tell you about waterproofing - back in the day when I was designing PCBs, conformal coatings do work. But the hassle of servicing a vehicle after running it in wet conditions isn’t worth it to me so I don’t do it. If it’s raining or snowing out, I just put the RCs up and whittle down the list of household chores that need to be done.

 

[SrC]

Conformal coatings do work. Just that I seen some very bad potting with many OE ESC's. I dissected several bricked ones. Just poor QC. I don't chance it any more. Corrosion is visible at the mosfets. So they are not sealed that well enough IMO.
Except with my Crawlers, I run in the wet. They are just serviced well afterwards. But I Conformal coat my servo's PCB's and grease their gears better. Same with the Rx's. Seal the servo case etc. The Crawler ESC's are mounted higher above the chassis line. Scale Wheel wells used . Crawlers drive very slow with little to no water or mud splashing internally. The chassis don't collect water, by their design. Driving Bashers fast and hard thru the mud and water will always soak the electrics, so I keep those rigs for dry days.

Nice build. Thanks for all the info. What changes would you do if going bashing . I want to have two set ups for this car. One for track and one for bashing


Thanks again for info. I hear what your saying. I’m building this car over winter and aim to be ready when spring come. So money is not as limited so to speak. My only worry and something I found out the other day is that most of the good ESC’s are not waterproof. Should that not be a concern? I’ve seen people use liquid tape on the circuit boards but really that seems finicky.

There's a slight learning curve with using Silicone conformal coating on PCB's ( printed circuit boards). You need to dissect the ESC, Rx, or Servo well enough to do this effectively. Knowing to be careful aound any Pots on the board. etc. Allowed to dry completely before powering up the PCB. Not for the faint of heart. Most Sensored ESC's are just not considered WP, because of the non sealed sensor ports. And the sensor Pin outs can corrode very easily. Then Signal impedence occurs easily. These ESC's are generally considered best for track running on a groomed dry surface.

 

[Hampus]

Can’t really tell you about waterproofing - back in the day when I was designing PCBs, conformal coatings do work. But the hassle of servicing a vehicle after running it in wet conditions isn’t worth it to me so I don’t do it. If it’s raining or snowing out, I just put the RCs up and whittle down the list of household chores that need to be done.

I like how you think. My wife would love that reasoning too.

Conformal coatings do work. Just that I seen some very bad potting with many OE ESC's. I dissected several bricked ones. Just poor QC. I don't chance it any more. Corrosion is visible at the mosfets. So they are not sealed that well enough IMO.
Except with my Crawlers, I run in the wet. They are just serviced well afterwards. But I Conformal coat my servo's PCB's and grease their gears better. Same with the Rx's. Seal the servo case etc. The Crawler ESC's are mounted higher above the chassis line. Scale Wheel wells used . Crawlers drive very slow with little to no water or mud splashing internally. The chassis don't collect water, by their design. Driving Bashers fast and hard thru the mud and water will always soak the electrics, so I keep those rigs for dry days.

There's a slight learning curve with using Silicone conformal coating on PCB's ( printed circuit boards). You need to dissect the ESC, Rx, or Servo well enough to do this effectively. Knowing to be careful aound any Pots on the board. etc. Allowed to dry completely before powering up the PCB. Not for the faint of heart. Most Sensored ESC's are just not considered WP, because of the non sealed sensor ports. And the sensor Pin outs can corrode very easily. Then Signal impedence occurs easily. These ESC's are generally considered best for track running on a groomed dry surface.

I hear you. My initial thought was not to run it wet. More to do with cleaning. I have a Traxxas car that I just hose off when it’s dirty. Never had a problem. But it’s not as expensive . Maybe I should switch to compressed air instead. Hmm.