Outcast Need advice leaking diff

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RxMonkey

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Virginia
Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
  2. Talion
hey guys,

My first real run with 4 packs charged and jumping /running the truck hard. All is well but 2 small problems.

1: pinion came loose and moved. I tore it down and fixed it but what can I do to lock it down. I saw white lock tite mentioned. Is that the ticket?

2: center diff leaking just. A little. Took it apart and gasket is fine. Plenty of fluid in it. Shims haven’t shipped yet so I just reassembled. Do I need to get aluminum cups? I can’t find a cause for the leaking. Except 8-10 foot high jumps/wrecks.
 
If it's leaking from gasket Just tight the screws. Also, check the rubber sealed
 
hey guys,

My first real run with 4 packs charged and jumping /running the truck hard. All is well but 2 small problems.

1: pinion came loose and moved. I tore it down and fixed it but what can I do to lock it down. I saw white lock tite mentioned. Is that the ticket?

2: center diff leaking just. A little. Took it apart and gasket is fine. Plenty of fluid in it. Shims haven’t shipped yet so I just reassembled. Do I need to get aluminum cups? I can’t find a cause for the leaking. Except 8-10 foot high jumps/wrecks.

My center diff was leaking too. You could see where the oil was coming out of the screw holes. They weren't super loose but no where near tight. Topped off the fluid and tightened everything up, no issues now.
 
hey guys,

My first real run with 4 packs charged and jumping /running the truck hard. All is well but 2 small problems.

1: pinion came loose and moved. I tore it down and fixed it but what can I do to lock it down. I saw white lock tite mentioned. Is that the ticket?

2: center diff leaking just. A little. Took it apart and gasket is fine. Plenty of fluid in it. Shims haven’t shipped yet so I just reassembled. Do I need to get aluminum cups? I can’t find a cause for the leaking. Except 8-10 foot high jumps/wrecks.

You definitely want to use blue locktite on your drive cup set screws.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas!

If it's leaking from gasket Just tight the screws. Also, check the rubber sealed

It seems to be the gasket. I tightened it up good. Diff oil should be here in a few days I’ll rebuild and shim then.

My center diff was leaking too. You could see where the oil was coming out of the screw holes. They weren't super loose but no where near tight. Topped off the fluid and tightened everything up, no issues now.

That’s what I did. I don’t have and 100k diff oil to top off just yet. Had plenty in it though.

You definitely want to use blue locktite on your drive cup set screws.

I always use blue on anything metal. What about the pinion though. Does it come loose often or maybe mine just wasn’t thread locked and tightened well from factory?
 
Thanks for the replies fellas!



It seems to be the gasket. I tightened it up good. Diff oil should be here in a few days I’ll rebuild and shim then.



That’s what I did. I don’t have and 100k diff oil to top off just yet. Had plenty in it though.



I always use blue on anything metal. What about the pinion though. Does it come loose often or maybe mine just wasn’t thread locked and tightened well from factory?

My rear came lose and when I took the set screw out there was little to no locktite on it. So I cleaned the set screw and covered it in locktite. No issues since then. Even on 6s.
 
Hi everyone
I also just bought an Outcast and it had its maiden run today. I´m still new to the hobby, I bought a Slash 2wd VXL last year. The power of the Outcast is amazing.
After todays run of the Outcast, I noticed that the center diff was leaking. Also the motor temp seemed really high but I can´t provide numbers because I forgot the temperature measuring device. Coming back home after about 10 min after the run, the motor temp was still at 48°C. After everything cools off I´m going to have a look at the center diff. What oil weight should I fill in? - Edit: just found the answer in a different thread. 100k or more.
Then I have a second question. The "butt" of the car war dragging - it always seemed to low. The aluminum plate is already scratched in the back, whereas the front still looks new. What is the best way to adjust for that? Up the ride height using the adjustment threads on the shocks? Use different shock oil weight - if so, what weight?
thank you for your input!
 
Last edited:
Hi everyone
I also just bought an Outcast and it had its maiden run today. I´m still new to the hobby, I bought a Slash 2wd VXL last year. The power of the Outcast is amazing.
After todays run of the Outcast, I noticed that the center diff was leaking. Also the motor temp seemed really high but I can´t provide numbers because I forgot the temperature measuring device. Coming back home after about 10 min after the run, the motor temp was still at 48°C. After everything cools off I´m going to have a look at the center diff. What oil weight should I fill in? - Edit: just found the answer in a different thread. 100k or more.
Then I have a second question. The "butt" of the car war dragging - it always seemed to low. The aluminum plate is already scratched in the back, whereas the front still looks new. What is the best way to adjust for that? Up the ride height using the adjustment threads on the shocks? Use different shock oil weight - if so, what weight?
thank you for your input!

I tightened the screws on the diff cup as tight as I could without stripping the plastic. Mine still continued to leak. I have run it about 5 times now and the diff oil was slung onto the chassis. I have it apart now. The oil was low in the cup but still enough to keep the gears lubed. I’m not sure what to do. I have a new set of gaskets and I’m thinking to put some associated green slime on the gasket to try and make a good seal.

For weight most people prefer a heavy center oil like 300k - 500k. This keeps the power from shifting up front and ballooning the front tires.

As far as temps that seems too hot. I’m not sure what 48C is in freedom units (kidding). If you weren’t running in tall grass or really pushing the truck hard you may have binding in the drivetrain somewhere. Try pushing the truck along the floor and see if it rolls freely or stops suddenly. I’m very new at this myself so I’m mostly parroting the advice over read on here. I do believe you’re much too hot but temps should be 150-170 max ideally. Going as high as 180-200 won’t kill the motor right away but should be avoided at all costs.

For the dragging tail you can certainly play with the suspension. I’m personally afraid to change much because the truck is incredibly stable. I cannot believe how hard it is to traction roll the truck over. I think lifting it would affect this. I don’t know that you’ll keep the belly from dragging. All the arrma trucks seem to run pretty low slung. Eespecially compared to old MTs like revo or savage. They sell chassis protectors. You can buy rpm skids that are thick and help keep the rear and front of chassis from dragging. I’ve seen some people on here buy a second chassis and cut it into a strip about 3-4” wide and screw it to the bottom to protect it.

All the best!
 
I can't believe 'iamtheoutcast' didnt reply to this cause i got this tip from him but use team losi diff seals instead of thw arrma ones. They are the exact fit and are way better quality part number LOSA3505
1525036966850787420778.jpg
 
I can't believe 'iamtheoutcast' didnt reply to this cause i got this tip from him but use team losi diff seals instead of thw arrma ones. They are the exact fit and are way better quality part number LOSA3505 View attachment 18299

Lol, so funny you say this I was browsing the forums and found him recommending those very gaskets. They’re on their way from eBay but I didn’t want to wait to put it back together so stock arrma for now. I also coated it in green slime to help seal. Thank you :)
 
hey guys,

My first real run with 4 packs charged and jumping /running the truck hard. All is well but 2 small problems.

1: pinion came loose and moved. I tore it down and fixed it but what can I do to lock it down. I saw white lock tite mentioned. Is that the ticket?

2: center diff leaking just. A little. Took it apart and gasket is fine. Plenty of fluid in it. Shims haven’t shipped yet so I just reassembled. Do I need to get aluminum cups? I can’t find a cause for the leaking. Except 8-10 foot high jumps/wrecks.


Red 271 locktite and I went come loose again. When u need to take off a little heat with your soldering iron will take it off easily.
 
Red 271 locktite and I went come loose again. When u need to take off a little heat with your soldering iron will take it off easily.

Oh man that stuff scares me. Lol. I was able to lock it down with old standard blue. So far so good. If I have problems in the future I’ll look into red locktite. Thank you. I have a set of traxxas shims coming to try your shock eyelet trick. I broke an end so I’m going to give it a go. I appreciate your help and advice bro!
 
Hi everyone
I also just bought an Outcast and it had its maiden run today. I´m still new to the hobby, I bought a Slash 2wd VXL last year. The power of the Outcast is amazing.
After todays run of the Outcast, I noticed that the center diff was leaking. Also the motor temp seemed really high but I can´t provide numbers because I forgot the temperature measuring device. Coming back home after about 10 min after the run, the motor temp was still at 48°C. After everything cools off I´m going to have a look at the center diff. What oil weight should I fill in? - Edit: just found the answer in a different thread. 100k or more.
Then I have a second question. The "butt" of the car war dragging - it always seemed to low. The aluminum plate is already scratched in the back, whereas the front still looks new. What is the best way to adjust for that? Up the ride height using the adjustment threads on the shocks? Use different shock oil weight - if so, what weight?
thank you for your input!

Are your droop screws set properly on your rear A arms? If they're set to far in, it limits your ride height for speed runs and such. They should be set so they're not allowing the shock to over extend so you don't break the plastic rod end. Something I learned recently thanks to the people on here.
 
Are your droop screws set properly on your rear A arms? If they're set to far in, it limits your ride height for speed runs and such. They should be set so they're not allowing the shock to over extend so you don't break the plastic rod end. Something I learned recently thanks to the people on here.

I’ve not changed anything from stock settings. Seems well balanced to me. Are you saying stretch the shock too long? I realize over compressing would probably break and end once the shock collapses and force is continued.
 
I’ve not changed anything from stock settings. Seems well balanced to me. Are you saying stretch the shock too long? I realize over compressing would probably break and end once the shock collapses and force is continued.

Yes, stretch it to long. If the A arm tries to move more than the shock it pulls down on the eyelet at the end of the shock. With the droop screw set properly, the pressure goes to the A arm and chassis instead of the shock end.
 
Yes, stretch it to long. If the A arm tries to move more than the shock it pulls down on the eyelet at the end of the shock. With the droop screw set properly, the pressure goes to the A arm and chassis instead of the shock end.

Ok so basically if I hang the truck in the air the weight of the unsprung wheels/tires should rest on the chassis plate at the droop screws, not on the fully extended shock. Sorry, just trying to understand correctly.
 
No problem. I'm glad to help. Someone took the time to explain it to me. But yes you are correct. With the truck on a stand and the wheels hanging in the air, you should be able to slide the top of the shock off of it's mount witout the A arm needing to be moved up or down. And you should be able to slide it back on the mount without wiggling the A arm to get it to line up.
 
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