Typhon Need help with changing the hexes

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yomamma219

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 6s
So I bought some extended 17mm hexes to go down the cheap truggified route. Problem I can't seem to get off the stock hexes on my V4 typhon. I thought the order of operations was:
1)remove set screw inside using 2.5mm Allen wrench (with an adjustable wrench holding the hex itself),
2) tap out pin and take off hex,
3) reverse steps 1&2, and you're complete

The issue is that the first set screw I tried to take out will not budge. To the point of starting to strip things (hex corners, Allen wrench). Is there a step I am missing, is the set screw reverse threaded, or what? The video I watched of someone doing it on a senton made it look simple and not terribly tough so I feel like I am missing something.

Full disclosure I have only tried this on my front right hex, started stripping stuff, so I figured I'd ask for a second opinion on the forums before continuing on.
 
I found that there was alot of loctite on the set screws for my kraton. I used a small butane torch to heat things up a little to loosen it up but you could also use a soldering iron right on the set screw. If you try to use the torch be careful not to melt anything or overheat the bearings.
 
I heated the allen key pretty good with a heat gun and just went slow and easy.
Took a few cycles but worked.
 
Thanks for the tips on heat. I managed to get the left side swapped without heat but the entire right side seems locked up pretty good. Also the left side didn't really come out like I would expect a screw to. It almost felt "gooey" while unscrewing it. Tried using a candle lighter but I guess it wasn't cutting it so I'll have to dig out the torch tomorrow.
 

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They're a bastard to get out. I ruined one of mine because I was too lazy to clean it first, the rest were okay even without heating. Just cleaned them up and went slow and steady with a good Arrowmax driver.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. Another question I had was that the extended hexes I got came with O-rings. I wasn't completely sure what to do with them but there is a groove inline with the little pin hole so I assumed they were for retaining the drive pin incase the set screw backed out?
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. Another question I had was that the extended hexes I got came with O-rings. I wasn't completely sure what to do with them but there is a groove inline with the little pin hole so I assumed they were for retaining the drive pin incase the set screw backed out?
Yes that’s the intent. Orings rarely keep pins in place tho.
 
Thanks for the tips on heat. I managed to get the left side swapped without heat but the entire right side seems locked up pretty good. Also the left side didn't really come out like I would expect a screw to. It almost felt "gooey" while unscrewing it. Tried using a candle lighter but I guess it wasn't cutting it so I'll have to dig out the torch tomorrow.

It was impossible for me to remove the Hex.
I remove the pin with a punch simply and put back the pin. (y)
Yvan
 
It was impossible for me to remove the Hex.
I remove the pin with a punch simply and put back the pin. (y)
Yvan
Do you mean like a punch you would use to "start" a drilling holes? I don't really wanna take the whole hub off if I don't have to.
 
Do you mean like a punch you would use to "start" a drilling holes? I don't really wanna take the whole hub off if I don't have to.

You can take a square head screwdriver or other shape with a hammer.

It is best to do it without the truck. I did that.
It is easier to remove the pines without breaking the HEX. (y)
Yvan
Do you mean like a punch you would use to "start" a drilling holes? I don't really wanna take the whole hub off if I don't have to.

I just received the HEX. (y)
I must do the same thing to remove the pines. :ROFLMAO::coffee:(y)
Yvan
The Hex is for another truck. (y)
 

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Last edited:
Hey so I just truggified my Typhon the same way, and i replaced 3 out 4 hexes easily. One ended up stripping and was a pain to extract. I bought an extractor bit kit, some thread kits and nothing worked lol. I ended up ordering some new CV Axles for about $19.99.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-8x33.5mm-cvd-axle-2-ara310451/p409592

I also ordered more of the screws I stripped to have in handy just incase. These https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-5x5mm-set-screw-set-10-ara724505/p409580

This was this video that helped me replace the stripped screw, and cvd axle under 10 minutes. Then I was out and about ready to bash lol.


I honestly recommend just going through this route. I was frustrated and ended up buying some bits that didnt work due to the size of the screw. They were micro bits but just couldnt do the job! Anyways, goodluck and I hope I can provide you with some help or advice using my route to fixing the same problem I had. Goodluck!
 

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I will try another (HEX) a little longer. (y)
The Back Flip LP tires would fit without rubbing on the body and bumper. :cool:
It gives me more choice of tires. (y)
HEX have no games and it is easy to install.
Yvan
 

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Thanks for all the help! Using the small torch did the trick. It took a few heat cycles of warming it up then trying to loosen the screw but I eventually got them all.
When putting the screws back in I skipped the loctite. Has anyone else done this? I know it's a bigger risk but it seems pretty snug in there.

Anyways, next up will be to get some wider wheels to go with the new hubs. Are the 2.8 trenches wide enough to get the typhon to ride more "on top" of tallish grass instead of "cutting through" the grass like the stock tires
 
It allowed me to try LP Backflip tires.
The problem the tires inflate a little too much and rub it on the body. :)
Yvan
 

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Thanks for all the help! Using the small torch did the trick. It took a few heat cycles of warming it up then trying to loosen the screw but I eventually got them all.
When putting the screws back in I skipped the loctite. Has anyone else done this? I know it's a bigger risk but it seems pretty snug in there.

Anyways, next up will be to get some wider wheels to go with the new hubs. Are the 2.8 trenches wide enough to get the typhon to ride more "on top" of tallish grass instead of "cutting through" the grass like the stock tires
The stock dBoots Katars are 146mm tall and an MX28 is only 128mm. You’re going to need MX38s at 176mm to add ride height. But those are way heavier and you will need to gear accordingly.
 
It allowed me to try LP Backflip tires.
The problem the tires inflate a little too much and rub it on the body. :)
Yvan
Ohh good to know about the back flip tires. Did you change gearing for them? I still have the stock non speed gear in mine.
 
Thanks for all the help! Using the small torch did the trick. It took a few heat cycles of warming it up then trying to loosen the screw but I eventually got them all.
When putting the screws back in I skipped the loctite. Has anyone else done this? I know it's a bigger risk but it seems pretty snug in there.

Anyways, next up will be to get some wider wheels to go with the new hubs. Are the 2.8 trenches wide enough to get the typhon to ride more "on top" of tallish grass instead of "cutting through" the grass like the stock tires
Yea I'm running 2.8 belted proline trenchers and they go through anything. I ran through mud, 3 inch high grass, short grass and baseball fields with no problem at all. I did notice my steering was off a bit when I ran through the big grass.
 
The stock dBoots Katars are 146mm tall and an MX28 is only 128mm. You’re going to need MX38s at 176mm to add ride height. But those are way heavier and you will need to gear accordingly.
Is using a taller mt tires what helps it get on top of the grass or is the added width of a 2.8 like the trenchers sufficient?
 
Is using a taller mt tires what helps it get on top of the grass or is the added width of a 2.8 like the trenchers sufficient?
I find buggy wheels like the Lockups and Katars very good at grass. I think the MT tires are better at preventing traction rolls, but the buggy tires for sure have more bite overall.
 
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