Mojave Need new wheels/tires

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skidmarkus

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Arrma RC's
  1. Mojave
I am having a hard time finding a wheel/tire combo to fit my mojave properly. I would like them to be as close to stock overall diameter as i can find. Stockers are back order everywhere im looking. I looked up the 8s Katars and its saying they are around 20mm shorter than the fortress. If anyone has any recommendations that are as close to stock as possible i would greatly appreciate it. I just got an email saying my exb parts have shipped. I get home in 2 weeks and NEED to run this thing. Currently one of my stock wheels is stripped. Going to order some different wheel nuts as well to make sure they don't loosen off and fiddlestick my wheels anymore.
EDIT: i did find a video on the forums here of @crimsonfancy running Katars. I did not realize there were a few different Katars. Ill check if i cant find some off the tailon list in stock somewhere.
 
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HR "Serrated" closed wheel nuts specific to the Arrma rigs are the best IMHO. What I use on all my 6S rigs.
Search around this forum for Mojave upgrade wheels. Others have tried different wheels also. Check PL wheel/tire options also. They are good with dimensional specs. Might make things easier. Make sure the Offset of the wheels you select is a match or close. Very important. Many overlook this and end up with wheels that sit inward or too far outward. Creating suspension travel/body issues. :cool:
 
I just don't have a Mojave. Yet.
But don't 1/8 Truggy Track premounts work on the Mojave??? or Buggy premounts? Not sure which. Anyone?
 
So I felt the stocks were way too small as well. I tried just about everything avail w 17mm hex.
love me some katars! The ones w the “0” as the first number in the part number are smaller and meant for 2/3s. The 6s katar have a “t” as begining of part number. They are very close to the ride of the fortress just w more clearance! Check my vids posted and u can see the katar in action. They don’t hit the body at all either.
I also enjoy the proline badlands and trenchersLP. But those will hit the body when they balloon. I love them for off in the woods/trails or in the dirt/mud.
I also enjoy the SRC terrain crushers. Heavy belted tire but looks so damn good. Great for parking lots or on road. Decent in grass/dry dirt or packed clay/track use. They’re wide af too!
P.s. the raid proline wheels and SRC wheels require a lil bit of shaving so the don't rub on the hubs. Easily done w 80grit sand paper and some elbow grease. I’d go w the katars. I’m on the 3rd set already. They’re cheap enough to burn up a set every other month lol.
 
So I felt the stocks were way too small as well. I tried just about everything avail w 17mm hex.
love me some katars! The ones w the “0” as the first number in the part number are smaller and meant for 2/3s. The 6s katar have a “t” as begining of part number. They are very close to the ride of the fortress just w more clearance! Check my vids posted and u can see the katar in action. They don’t hit the body at all either.
I also enjoy the proline badlands and trenchersLP. But those will hit the body when they balloon. I love them for off in the woods/trails or in the dirt/mud.
I also enjoy the SRC terrain crushers. Heavy belted tire but looks so damn good. Great for parking lots or on road. Decent in grass/dry dirt or packed clay/track use. They’re wide af too!
P.s. the raid proline wheels and SRC wheels require a lil bit of shaving so the don't rub on the hubs. Easily done w 80grit sand paper and some elbow grease. I’d go w the katars. I’m on the 3rd set already. They’re cheap enough to burn up a set every other month lol.
thank you, im going to go with katars for now and look more into every tire you mentioned. I am not really a fan of the wheels the katars come on, but lets be honest..... the stock mojave wheels look mental in yellow and red. Should be just black.
 
@MFM Katars on order bud. Thanks for the tips.
HR "Serrated" closed wheel nuts specific to the Arrma rigs are the best IMHO. What I use on all my 6S rigs.
Search around this forum for Mojave upgrade wheels. Others have tried different wheels also. Check PL wheel/tire options also. They are good with dimensional specs. Might make things easier. Make sure the Offset of the wheels you select is a match or close. Very important. Many overlook this and end up with wheels that sit inward or too far outward. Creating suspension travel/body issues. :cool:
I asked the owner of my LHS to get me some hot racing wheel nuts and he swore against anything hot racing. He told me just use the factory nuts and put loctite on them. Do you think he is onto something there, or probably had a poopy experience with HR and just decided not to support them anymore. He is the only person ive heard negative things from about HR.
 
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thank you, im going to go with katars for now and look more into every tire you mentioned. I am not really a fan of the wheels the katars come on, but lets be honest..... the stock mojave wheels look mental in yellow and red. Should be just black.
I wasn’t a fan of the wheels at all either. Then got my first set and they have grown on me.
min always looking for an alternate for the stock tiny fortress. So I just grabbed these today since they’re around the same Size and offset as the katar. They’re the losi 1/8 XXT truggy wheels.
D2464F0A-31F9-4FED-82BD-5C6B656067C9.jpeg
61EC6C80-C357-4778-8378-47D499D31F54.jpeg

@MFM Katars on order bud. Thanks for the tips.

I asked the owner of my LHS to get me some hot racing wheel nuts and he swore against anything hot racing. He told me just use the factory nuts and put loctite on them. Do you think he is onto something there, or probably had a poopy experience with HR and just decided not to support them anymore. He is the only person ive heard negative things from about HR.
I’ve never had any issues w any HR pieces and I’ve Got a bunch!
 

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thank you, im going to go with katars for now and look more into every tire you mentioned. I am not really a fan of the wheels the katars come on, but lets be honest..... the stock mojave wheels look mental in yellow and red. Should be just black.
They should be be black . (y)
Get some UDR wheels. Make believe its a Trx.
 
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@MFM Katars on order bud. Thanks for the tips.

I asked the owner of my LHS to get me some hot racing wheel nuts and he swore against anything hot racing. He told me just use the factory nuts and put loctite on them. Do you think he is onto something there, or probably had a poopy experience with HR and just decided not to support them anymore. He is the only person ive heard negative things from about HR.
Great LHS....(n)(n)(n)
Never put TL of any type on 17mm nuts. Aluminum to aluminum fastening doesn't require it. TL will ruin all. Serrated wheel nuts is all you need. Stock or HR. Against anything HR????? What an idiot IMHO. I guess he doesn't sell HR. HR has a lot of good stuff. HR is not perfect like the rest. Customer support is a zero, I agree. Many are. But simple HR serrated wheel nuts are no good????:rolleyes: A joke.
Just order them already. Be done with it. I never ever lost a wheel to a loose 17mm wheel nut on any of my rigs. Ever.
 
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Great LHS....(n)(n)(n)
Never put TL of any type on 17mm nuts. Aluminum to aluminum fastening doesn't require it. TL will ruin all. Serrated wheel nuts is all you need. Stock or HR. Against anything HR????? What an idiot IMHO. I guess he doesn't sell HR. HR has a lot of good stuff. HR is not perfect like the rest. Customer support is a zero, I agree. Many are. But simple HR serrated wheel nuts are no good????:rolleyes: A joke.
Just order them already. Be done with it. I never ever lost a wheel to a loose 17mm wheel nut on any of my rigs. Ever.
Ill order them. This LHS has its flaws for sure, but they are a small mom and pop shop and go way above and beyond for their customers. Ive had motor failures before and he rebuilt them for me for free. Dx2e steering wheel failures, the owner tore down some exttas he had and replaced the broken parts. Free soldering for those that need it. Ive had lipo batteries fail and they don't ask questions, just give me a new one and deal with the supplier themselves. Just very opinionated. They refuse to sell savoc as well. They sold 5 servos before in a week and 4 of them came back broken within a month. They tried to get them replaced and savox told them to eat it. So they took all their stock off the shelves and wont sell their products.
 
Ok I get it. They have their spin on upgrade companies. Obviously they treat you very well. (y) (y) Most experienced shops will do soldering etc., if you are a reg. customer. But sometimes their business model doesn't suit a customers needs when a cust. wants a certain justifiable part or service.
A simple thing like aftermarket closed wheel nuts should not be like pulling teeth to ask for. Should have asked him "what other closed wheel nut option" does he have? Nothing wrong with stock, but it is common place to upgrade simple things like that. The HR serrated has a wider flange, better bite and stays put IMHO. They are closed and prevent rust and crust from getting to the pin grub screws. A bear to deal with otherwise. The stock open nuts have a finer serration and eventually lose their bite as the Anodizing wears away from use and removal.:cool:
 
Ok I get it. They have their spin on upgrade companies. Obviously they treat you very well. (y) (y) Most experienced shops will do soldering etc., if you are a reg. customer. But sometimes their business model doesn't suit a customers needs when a cust. wants a certain justifiable part or service.
A simple thing like aftermarket closed wheel nuts should not be like pulling teeth to ask for. Should have asked him "what other closed wheel nut option" does he have? Nothing wrong with stock, but it is common place to upgrade simple things like that. The HR serrated has a wider flange, better bite and stays put IMHO. They are closed and prevent rust and crust from getting to the pin grub screws. A bear to deal with otherwise. The stock open nuts have a finer serration and eventually lose their bite as the Anodizing wears away from use and removal.:cool:
Im going to order these today. I respect the opinions of alot of the members here as ive purchased other upgrades based solely on what ive read here. And even tho there is nothing wrong with stock, i went 5 mo ths without losing a wheel nut. Then in one night lost the same one 4 times. So if the HR can prevent that, im happy.
 
I will agree with your LHS, that Savox is a zero for customer Warranty support. Savox will gladly repair your servo. But wants to charge you. Been there with 2 1210's purchased together and still under warranty. They were buzzing constantly, struggling to center Out the Box.. They merely sent them back to me un repaired because I refused to pay them to repair while under warranty.. no Savox for me again. Even though they appear popular. I do have a Savox 1230 sg that is perfect for several years ironically. But to me the 1210's were crap. If they were cheap $25 servos I could understand and move on easily. But I paid $145 for both. In all honesty, I have cheap AMZ servos and customer support was incredible with one bad servo of 5 servos purchased, FanModel 25Kg's digitals. Its amazing what a good vs bad review will do to a seller on AMZ. Customer support is paramount there, or your business peters out quick.
 
My local dude is awesome. Had issue w spektrum 6s lipo battery and he grabbed one out the case and gave it to me. Put the bad one back in new box. Still covered under warranty. Busted reefs rc servo after 14 days w it and I had to deal w them directly. Reefs rc was great being on the other side of the country they shipped me a replacement as soon as I provided proof or purchase and tracking info on theirs coming back.
 
That was great of Reefs to cross ship. Saved you a lot of the waiting.
 
So I felt the stocks were way too small as well. I tried just about everything avail w 17mm hex.
love me some katars! The ones w the “0” as the first number in the part number are smaller and meant for 2/3s. The 6s katar have a “t” as begining of part number. They are very close to the ride of the fortress just w more clearance! Check my vids posted and u can see the katar in action. They don’t hit the body at all either.
I also enjoy the proline badlands and trenchersLP. But those will hit the body when they balloon. I love them for off in the woods/trails or in the dirt/mud.
I also enjoy the SRC terrain crushers. Heavy belted tire but looks so damn good. Great for parking lots or on road. Decent in grass/dry dirt or packed clay/track use. They’re wide af too!
P.s. the raid proline wheels and SRC wheels require a lil bit of shaving so the don't rub on the hubs. Easily done w 80grit sand paper and some elbow grease. I’d go w the katars. I’m on the 3rd set already. They’re cheap enough to burn up a set every other month lol.
Dude, I went and ordered those Katars not even thinking to ask if they will fit with the scorched parts fenders.... Ive spent the cash now so hopefully they don't rub. The stockers get pretty damn close when at full squat. You have any idea if these will interfere.
 
I ordered the Hot racing steering blocks.. But as for wheel nuts, People want way too much money for them on ebay. Hot racing site has their MSRP set at 12.99.. i cant find any of those nuts for less then 30$ plus shipping. I found 17mm nuts on Bang good for 5 bucks a set delivered lol. Lots of reviews. ill let you guys know if they are any good. They legit look identical to the HR ones but no print on them at all. Just color.
 
Great LHS....(n)(n)(n)
Never put TL of any type on 17mm nuts. Aluminum to aluminum fastening doesn't require it. TL will ruin all. Serrated wheel nuts is all you need. Stock or HR. Against anything HR????? What an idiot IMHO. I guess he doesn't sell HR. HR has a lot of good stuff. HR is not perfect like the rest. Customer support is a zero, I agree. Many are. But simple HR serrated wheel nuts are no good????:rolleyes: A joke.
Just order them already. Be done with it. I never ever lost a wheel to a loose 17mm wheel nut on any of my rigs. Ever.
I've been looking for an answer to the wheel nut/loctite question. My left rear wheel keeps popping off no matter how tight I get the serrated nut (Kraton 4s). I'm desperate enough to just LT the nut and deal with the consequences.
 
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