Mojave Need new wheels/tires

[SrC]

TL is not great on Aluminum to aluminum fasteners. They can seize together. If your nut is steel with alu. axel or vs versa, TL is ok. Aluminum to aluminum doesn't play nice together when using TL. IMHO. My experience. The K4s may have steel on Alum? Ok.
Looks like hardware is just worn out. Replace them. Or move over to 17mm hex upgrade. The wheels wont loosen any longer.

 

[SrC]

I ordered the Hot racing steering blocks.. But as for wheel nuts, People want way too much money for them on ebay. Hot racing site has their MSRP set at 12.99.. i cant find any of those nuts for less then 30$ plus shipping. I found 17mm nuts on Bang good for 5 bucks a set delivered lol. Lots of reviews. ill let you guys know if they are any good. They legit look identical to the HR ones but no print on them at all. Just color.

I paid $18. about 6 months ago for my Lim. But all my Arrma 6S rigs use these exact ones. It must be the exact part number. HR makes many types. Not all are Serrated and will fit the 6S series. Some are called friction types. (uses o-ring/no serrations) Its a no fit. Ask me how I know.
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-NRO10N02-Serrated-Shield-Wheel/dp/B06XTRN3LB.
BTW, I tried some cheap generics. Very bad workmanship. Would bottom out with wheel still loose. And No serrations. Poorly threaded.
When it comes to my NUTS, I don't play around. Spend the money, your Nuts are worth it. They seem expensive, but your NUTs will thank you.

These are on B/O I believe. This AMZ seller stopped selling them. China markup and $Tariffs$ have hurt this Hobby as of late.
It's ironic that we still rely on China and elsewhere for our toys.

 

[Skoobie]

TL is not great on Aluminum to aluminum fasteners. They can seize together. If your nut is steel with alu. axel or vs versa, TL is ok. Aluminum to aluminum doesn't play nice together when using TL. IMHO. My experience. The K4s may have steel on Alum? Ok.
Looks like hardware is just worn out. Replace them. Or move over to 17mm hex upgrade. The wheels wont loosen any longer.

In my case it's not a wear problem. The car's only been run a half dozen times or so. I haven't heard of the hex upgrade (newb here). Got a product link?

 

[SrC]

I have all 6S Arrmas. I know the 17mm nuts/axels on mine never come loose. Some are very old and still always snug
Others here have done this upgrade mod. to 4S rigs.
Wait for a reply.

 

[SrC]

@Skoobie, This video will explain the basic concept.

I've been looking for an answer to the wheel nut/loctite question. My left rear wheel keeps popping off no matter how tight I get the serrated nut (Kraton 4s). I'm desperate enough to just LT the nut and deal with the consequences.

It's usually the LEFT side wheel nuts that loosen, because the right hand threaded nut opposes the counterclockwise rotation of the axel and naturally wants to loosen. The right hand side Nuts of the rig , will want to tighten by contrast. Change out the hardware. Use TL sparingly if all else fails. TL is just a band-aid in this scenario. Get a 17mm upgrade hex adapter for your Kraton 4S, if you can locate one. (HR)
Something LIKE this: An adapter/ extender. But one that will fit your Kraton 4S!

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...e-hex-w-serrated-nuts-5mm-hranro10w02/p650255

Edit... again... If the hardware is fairly new, it should not loosen. Doing something wrong, OR the parts are defective. Try swapping ALL the left side hardware to the right hand side. See if it, loosens the same. Move the wheel to a different location as well. Some ideas. Ultimately I feel it is a Mfr. defect in design as you are not alone with that Rig. Call HH for parts. Your issue belongs in the Arrma 4S section.

 

[Skoobie]

@Skoobie, This video will explain the basic concept.

It's usually the LEFT side wheel nuts that loosen, because the right hand threaded nut opposes the counterclockwise rotation of the axel and naturally wants to loosen. The right hand side Nuts of the rig , will want to tighten by contrast. Change out the hardware. Use TL sparingly if all else fails. TL is just a band-aid in this scenario. Get a 17mm upgrade hex adapter for your Kraton 4S, if you can locate one. (HR)
Something LIKE this: An adapter/ extender. But one that will fit your Kraton 4S!

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...e-hex-w-serrated-nuts-5mm-hranro10w02/p650255

Edit... again... If the hardware is fairly new, it should not loosen. Doing something wrong, OR the parts are defective. Try swapping ALL the left side hardware to the right hand side. See if it, loosens the same. Move the wheel to a different location as well. Some ideas. Ultimately I feel it is a Mfr. defect in design as you are not alone with that Rig. Call HH for parts. Your issue belongs in the Arrma 4S section.

Thanks a lot for the reply SrC. Very helpful and informative. ?

 

[DrPepper]

Has anyone tried Associated DB8 wheels, p/n ASC89604?
Overall height is about 130 mm, 17 mm hexes, but I'm not sure if hub carriers will fit in, those rims look like short course with 3.0" inner mounting diameter and ours are something close to 3.3"...

 

[KratonBash79]

I will agree with your LHS, that Savox is a zero for customer Warranty support. Savox will gladly repair your servo. But wants to charge you. Been there with 2 1210's purchased together and still under warranty. They were buzzing constantly, struggling to center Out the Box.. They merely sent them back to me un repaired because I refused to pay them to repair while under warranty.. no Savox for me again. Even though they appear popular. I do have a Savox 1230 sg that is perfect for several years ironically. But to me the 1210's were crap. If they were cheap $25 servos I could understand and move on easily. But I paid $145 for both. In all honesty, I have cheap AMZ servos and customer support was incredible with one bad servo of 5 servos purchased, FanModel 25Kg's digitals. Its amazing what a good vs bad review will do to a seller on AMZ. Customer support is paramount there, or your business peters out quick.

Hey man, would you mind having a listen to this video? I just installed a HR aluminum mount and Savox 1210 servo and am getting a strange buzzing noise and it simply doesn't go back to center on hardwood. I've never changed a servo before but my problem sounds similar to yours so I thought I'd ask your opinion! ?

 

[SrC]

Hey man, would you mind having a listen to this video? I just installed a HR aluminum mount and Savox 1210 servo and am getting a strange buzzing noise and it simply doesn't go back to center on hardwood. I've never changed a servo before but my problem sounds similar to yours so I thought I'd ask your opinion! ?

Sorry for the late reply. Been away for a few days.
Sounds like your 1210 is doing exactly what 2 of mine did out the box. I say the Potentiometers are just defective. Savox got a bad batch of pots. and some of these 1210's are just crap. Others say no. But from where I am standing, I gave up on Savox. Call them and TRY to warranty the servo. Maybe you will have better luck than I did?

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Has anyone tried Associated DB8 wheels, p/n ASC89604?
Overall height is about 130 mm, 17 mm hexes

Those look exactly like the stock tires on my FTX DR8; 130mm diameter, 17mm hex, 55mm wide, 250gram. They look nice, but I did not like them. I switched to Louise (aka Duratrax) MT Uphill MFT. No more ballooning due to MFT, diameter, hex and weight are the same exact now 70mm wide. Hardly any flip overs!

 

[aametzger]

Sorry if someone already mentioned this but this is a good option for preventing rubbing the hubs and also to keep the nuts from coming off. https://m2cracing.net/arrma/495-m2c-3160-arrma-17mm-hub-extenders.html
They are a little pricey but work well. One thing to note is with the stock wheels the nut and shaft stick out a little and looks a little off. I'm running proline trencher lp and its perfect because the wheel has some offset so the shaft is more recessed. As mentioned earlier in the post the lp's do rub a little so I just trimmed my body.

 

[skidmarkus]

Quick update. Ive been running the Katars for a dozen or so packs now. They are a good tires but i feel they do not handle as well as the stockers. Also i had to pinion back down to 16. I was running 20 with the stocks with no heat issues what so ever and when i installed the Katars after a few minutes i was experiencing something new. If i punched the throttle wide open from a stand still it would hesitate big time and chug for a few seconds before taking off. It was a heat issue and once i pinioned back down it worked fine. I got rid of my stocks allready and did not get any pictures but i can confirm that the inside of all my wheels were rubbing on the hubs. Every one of them. This was before the hot racing upgrades. Bone stock out of the box rubbing. That 100% has to be the reason that my wheel nuts were backing off and i stripped a hex to begin with. I will continue running the Katars until they are wore out and then hopefully be able to find a set of grey stockers.

 

[SrC]

For the Mojave issue with rubbing wheels to the hubs, use some external diff. shim(s) behind each outer wheel/hub bearing and use HR capped serrated wheel nuts. It looks like M2C created a 2mm longer hex axel for this reason. But I think alternatively using shims and HR wheel nuts will solve the issue.

 

[DrPepper]

I switched to Louise (aka Duratrax) MT Uphill MFT. No more ballooning due to MFT, diameter, hex and weight are the same exact now 70mm wide. Hardly any flip overs!

Nice! Got any pics of your truck with them?

 

[KratonBash79]

Sorry for the late reply. Been away for a few days.
Sounds like your 1210 is doing exactly what 2 of mine did out the box. I say the Potentiometers are just defective. Savox got a bad batch of pots. and some of these 1210's are just crap. Others say no. But from where I am standing, I gave up on Savox. Call them and TRY to warranty the servo. Maybe you will have better luck than I did?

Hey man.. I'm actually gonna take my servo to the hobby shop to ask them if it's performing as it should. It doesn't seem to turn quickly or full left or right unless the wheels are in the air..

 

[Budniko]

M2c racing +2mm hexes. They come with double nuts and with the offset they won’t rub the hubs to where they loosen the nuts

 

[calebgilmore]

I'm a little late to the show but pro line makes a hyrax for the udr. you'd need a 2.2/3.0 wheel for them.

 

[DrPepper]

I'm a little late to the show but pro line makes a hyrax for the udr. you'd need a 2.2/3.0 wheel for them.

2.2/3.0 is an SCT wheel. Do those fit over Mojave hub carriers, arms and so on without rubbing and without ridiculous offsets? DE Racing and Pro-Line make those for 17 mm hexes, but I don't own any to test.

 

[Caleb428]

2.2/3.0 is an SCT wheel. Do those fit over Mojave hub carriers, arms and so on without rubbing and without ridiculous offsets? DE Racing and Pro-Line make those for 17 mm hexes, but I don't own any to test.

This was a post on Facebook with some new wheels designed for the mojave running udr tires

 

[SrC]

Good find. Thanks for sharing.
Gluing may be an issue. Or rather replacing the tires...the ungluing and removal of CA from these beautiful machined wheels. My only concern. Hyrax is a great tire. A wanna be scale tread design. I have them on one of my Crawlers and they perform well in comps.. $120 for the set of these wheels is not too bad....its about right if you want $alloy$ wheels. Double wheel nuts from M2C is important like you did. Alloy doesn't compress like plastic, so wheels need to be double nutted as you did or these wheels will just loosen more often than stock plastic wheels do. My thoughts.

Edit: Does anyone know if the TRX UDR wheels fit the Mojave without clearance issues? I am using the Scorched wheel wells with great results. Installation was super easy for my. The fit is perfect with easy trimming. Little if any dirt migration into the chassis. And heat not an issue so far with stock gearing. Mojave wheels been on B/O for some time now. FWIW. All colors.
Its been said the Grey wheels don't loosen like the others. I don't understand why. ?‍ Color is just a plastic dye. But it's the same plastic.
Anyone have comments or experience on this?