Granite Need Replacement Receiver / ESC

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just pulled the trigger on the stuff from Jenny’sRC. Swapped out that steering servo for the S651 like you suggested.

Got the motor from Amazon and now I’m lookin for a receiver box to keep it clean and dry!

I’ll keep you all posted how it goes.
I like this one…

96AE2FE9-E2F5-434D-9B0B-7B9B5B00C23E.png

It bolted right in towards the front of the car with no issues
 
9B5D08C7-DD25-49D3-B29A-0FB0730D9965.jpeg

Finally getting a chance to update! I went and changed out all the electronics.
Radio: Spektrum SLT3 3ch 2.4Ghz
ESC: Dynamite 60a DYNS2210
Motor: INJORA RC Motor 550 12T
Servo: Spektrum S651(can use stock servo saver!)
Radio Box: ARRMA Radio Box Set II 6S

Everything was literally bolt right on. I used some spare screws from other parts and just cut them down because they were too long. Took maybe an hour to do.

I left all the gearing stock. I have to say, this thing is awesome! The motor gave this thing just a little more (controllable) power without me fearing of shredding the gears. The new ESC gave me a run time of almost an hour on one 2S LIPo! My son went through THREE LIPo batteries in his stock setup during that time. Now he’s begging me for the same upgrades lol. I’m trying to decide if I should give him mine and I get a granite blx before dumping more money into these.
New problem I’m having are the tires stripping from the hub. I used the foil method to take up the space at the hex and swapped the nuts for a washer and lock nut on the rim.

Thank you guys for all the help getting this thing back up and running!
 
View attachment 213704
Finally getting a chance to update! I went and changed out all the electronics.
Radio: Spektrum SLT3 3ch 2.4Ghz
ESC: Dynamite 60a DYNS2210
Motor: INJORA RC Motor 550 12T
Servo: Spektrum S651(can use stock servo saver!)
Radio Box: ARRMA Radio Box Set II 6S

Everything was literally bolt right on. I used some spare screws from other parts and just cut them down because they were too long. Took maybe an hour to do.

I left all the gearing stock. I have to say, this thing is awesome! The motor gave this thing just a little more (controllable) power without me fearing of shredding the gears. The new ESC gave me a run time of almost an hour on one 2S LIPo! My son went through THREE LIPo batteries in his stock setup during that time. Now he’s begging me for the same upgrades lol. I’m trying to decide if I should give him mine and I get a granite blx before dumping more money into these.
New problem I’m having are the tires stripping from the hub. I used the foil method to take up the space at the hex and swapped the nuts for a washer and lock nut on the rim.

Thank you guys for all the help getting this thing back up and running!
Excellent! Give him yours, keep his for parts and get a Granite or a big rock. Granite is short wheel base, a little bit more zippy good for stunts and jumping. The big rock is the long wheel base and amazing for all around bashing. Jumps well also. If I could only have one 3s car it would be a big rock.
 
Excellent! Give him yours, keep his for parts and get a Granite or a big rock. Granite is short wheel base, a little bit more zippy good for stunts and jumping. The big rock is the long wheel base and amazing for all around bashing. Jumps well also. If I could only have one 3s car it would be a big rock.
This hobby is starting to get expensive 🤣 I’ll have to look into those trucks when they go on sale.

What would be the reason for the longer run time? Is the more efficient motor or is it the more accurate esc cutting off voltage at lower values? I did notice the car driving slower towards the end, but never actually stopped altogether. When I plugged the battery into the charger afterwards, the voltage on his battery’s cells were 3.7 while mine was 3.4. Not sure if that makes all the difference or not.
 
This hobby is starting to get expensive 🤣 I’ll have to look into those trucks when they go on sale.

What would be the reason for the longer run time? Is the more efficient motor or is it the more accurate esc cutting off voltage at lower values? I did notice the car driving slower towards the end, but never actually stopped altogether. When I plugged the battery into the charger afterwards, the voltage on his battery’s cells were 3.7 while mine was 3.4. Not sure if that makes all the difference or not.
Beats me lol. Every esc, motor etc has its own thing. That’s great its working well!
 
Well that was fast. Second day out and spur gear is toast. *sigh* can someone tell me if the granite of tougher and doesn’t need part replacing this often??
 
Well that was fast. Second day out and spur gear is toast. *sigh* can someone tell me if the granite of tougher and doesn’t need part replacing this often??
That is subjective, my 3S rigs are constantly being worked on and I find myself very detail oriented. Between the fam and friends we have several of these voltages running around and for the price, they are a blast. Like Velodromed was saying they can be a PITA to work on and replacing a diff requires full disassembly. That being said, if you don't over power them I still think they are a great budget truck. I have seen these take crashes I know my 3S would have been broken in half.

As for your spur, these things happen. They are 6$ and snap right out.

Couple things to consider:

1. The mesh on these rigs have individual pre-set holes, make sure they are correct and that your mesh looks good (should be about the width of a paper). If the gap is much wider, investigate (might be an odd pinion?).
2. The spur cavity does collect dust and small rocks, we are pretty sure they actually travel through the motor holes. The last spur we mangled happened after a roll over crash. All that dust and small rocks must have fallen into the spur while upside down. Afterwards the truck sounded like it was supercharged. Point being you should check it once and a while and clear the stuff out.
3. Check the bearing on the spur shaft, if there is excess play it could effect your gear mesh.

Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
That is subjective, my 3S rigs are constantly being worked on and I find myself very detail oriented. Between the fam and friends we have several of these voltages running around and for the price, they are a blast. Like Velodromed was saying they can be a PITA to work on and replacing a diff requires full disassembly. That being said, if you don't over power them I still think they are a great budget truck. I have seen these take crashes I know my 3S would have been broken in half.

As for your spur, these things happen. They are 6$ and snap right out.

Couple things to consider:

1. The mesh on these rigs have individual pre-set holes, make sure they are correct and that your mesh looks good (should be about the width of a paper). If the gap is much wider, investigate (might be an odd pinion?).
2. The spur cavity does collect dust and small rocks, we are pretty sure they actually travel through the motor holes. The last spur we mangled happened after a roll over crash. All that dust and small rocks must have fallen into the spur while upside down. Afterwards the truck sounded like it was supercharged. Point being you should check it once and a while and clear the stuff out.
3. Check the bearing on the spur shaft, if there is excess play it could effect your gear mesh.

Hope that helps.
I did notice dirt in the area. Maybe I can tape up the holes to prevent dirt from getting in. I see fast eddy makes bearings too. Is that something I should consider? I never changed the pinion from stock, so it should be meshing the same as before.
 
A44A4127-82A2-4C73-B7E4-988343A888E4.jpeg

Well. After getting home, took a good look at everything. Good news it wasn’t the spur gear. Bad news it that I had to take to whole truck apart to fix the differential. This one is getting chalked up to my son hold the gas down during a landing.

414025B0-3389-42ED-BF59-1F26EECF2AF5.jpeg
 
I’m done driving the voltage. Fixed the differential, let the other boy drive it, and it exploded again.

I’m tired of taking the car apart every time to repair it. This outing, we had a completely stripped wheel hub, blown stock servo / servo saver, a squealing motor, and that shattered differential. We weren’t even driving the the cars hard. Going to turn mine into a donor car for the other 2 at this point.

I pulled the trigger on 2 Granite BLXs that Amazon had on sale. I’m praying those hold up better to abuse on 2S power.

(Look at this field. It’s not even tall grass and mostly loose dirt!)

image.jpg
 
I’m done driving the voltage. Fixed the differential, let the other boy drive it, and it exploded again.

I’m tired of taking the car apart every time to repair it. This outing, we had a completely stripped wheel hub, blown stock servo / servo saver, a squealing motor, and that shattered differential. We weren’t even driving the the cars hard. Going to turn mine into a donor car for the other 2 at this point.

I pulled the trigger on 2 Granite BLXs that Amazon had on sale. I’m praying those hold up better to abuse on 2S power.

(Look at this field. It’s not even tall grass and mostly loose dirt!)

View attachment 214634
Did you get that $295 deal I think it was?! My wife and I seriously considered another granite but decided to go another route.

You’re gonna love the granites! They are still difficult to work on in certain areas but so much easier than the voltage. Just make sure you got good tools and put together an extra parts box so you don’t find yourself waiting for when you break things.

Hit the top of the 4 x 4 section and look for the post that covers all the basics on what to do when you buy a 3S car. Lock tightening the axles, filling diffs, setting end points…all that fun stuff. YouTube vids hep much. Razorrc has some very good vids on the 3s line.

Don’t worry about upgrading it yet. Make sure to get it in good shape stock and then learn what you break overtime based on how to drive. Many upgrades are not worth it honestly. These things are extremely durable and fun right out of the box. Just gotta do all the little things first before you drive it so you don’t break things and get y’all get frustrated.
 
The Granite BLXs are quite tough.
I kick and beat on mine Plenty.

Only things you should pay extra attention to are:
1. the stock aluminum motor mount - They tend to bend "easily" if you have a hard crash ;ie: run straight into a tree or concrete curb at 25+MPH and up (once bent it throws off the mesh of the Pinion and Spur gear ,which leads to stripping and lost of power. If you pay attention you can hear the mesh getting out of alignment.. So just a heads up.)
2. the stock plastic shocks tend to leak ,eventually (watch for oily shine on any part of your shocks, that's a tell tale sign of leakage.)
The new versions should have silicone O-rings ,which are better. But it still may leak, because the shock housing is still plastic.
 
Did you get that $295 deal I think it was?! My wife and I seriously considered another granite but decided to go another route.

You’re gonna love the granites! They are still difficult to work on in certain areas but so much easier than the voltage. Just make sure you got good tools and put together an extra parts box so you don’t find yourself waiting for when you break things.

Hit the top of the 4 x 4 section and look for the post that covers all the basics on what to do when you buy a 3S car. Lock tightening the axles, filling diffs, setting end points…all that fun stuff. YouTube vids hep much. Razorrc has some very good vids on the 3s line.

Don’t worry about upgrading it yet. Make sure to get it in good shape stock and then learn what you break overtime based on how to drive. Many upgrades are not worth it honestly. These things are extremely durable and fun right out of the box. Just gotta do all the little things first before you drive it so you don’t break things and get y’all get frustrated.
Yes! I did grab a red and green one at that sale price. They come on Monday! The older boy will get one for graduation and I’m going to use the other one for now. I’ll be able to figure out all the issues beforehand and get whatever I’ll need for his by then.

Just finished fixing his voltage with parts from mine. I used a different motor this time. I grabbed an Injora 540 20T, replacing the exact same stock motor. This SHOULDNT break anything I hope.
 
The Granite BLXs are quite tough.
I kick and beat on mine Plenty.

Only things you should pay extra attention to are:
1. the stock aluminum motor mount - They tend to bend "easily" if you have a hard crash ;ie: run straight into a tree or concrete curb at 25+MPH and up (once bent it throws off the mesh of the Pinion and Spur gear ,which leads to stripping and lost of power. If you pay attention you can hear the mesh getting out of alignment.. So just a heads up.)
2. the stock plastic shocks tend to leak ,eventually (watch for oily shine on any part of your shocks, that's a tell tale sign of leakage.)
The new versions should have silicone O-rings ,which are better. But it still may leak, because the shock housing is still plastic.
You knows funny, I was watching a video of someone setting it up and they shimmed the bottom of the motor to prevent that from happening. Hopefully it’l be awhile before i have to change them.
Yes! I did grab a red and green one at that sale price. They come on Monday! The older boy will get one for graduation and I’m going to use the other one for now. I’ll be able to figure out all the issues beforehand and get whatever I’ll need for his by then.

Just finished fixing his voltage with parts from mine. I used a different motor this time. I grabbed an Injora 540 20T, replacing the exact same stock motor. This SHOULDNT break anything I hope.
And that didn’t last long. Blew the differential again and ruined the spur. I can’t with this car anymore.
 
Yes! I did grab a red and green one at that sale price. They come on Monday! The older boy will get one for graduation and I’m going to use the other one for now. I’ll be able to figure out all the issues beforehand and get whatever I’ll need for his by then.

Just finished fixing his voltage with parts from mine. I used a different motor this time. I grabbed an Injora 540 20T, replacing the exact same stock motor. This SHOULDNT break anything I hope.
Nice! You’ll have a blast with your boys! I had an Injora in a voltage and it riped.
 
Nice! You’ll have a blast with your boys! I had an Injora in a voltage and it riped.
I think all this damage is coming down to the metal diff cups. Whatever is happening is just transferring all power to everything else down the line making everything break. I’m going to go back to the plastic ones and just get a bunch of them. As they break, I can just fix it in the field in 5 minutes.
 
I think all this damage is coming down to the metal diff cups. Whatever is happening is just transferring all power to everything else down the line making everything break. I’m going to go back to the plastic ones and just get a bunch of them. As they break, I can just fix it in the field in 5 minutes.
This is the way. The plastic cups cost a few bucks per pair and like you mentioned take 5 mins to swap out.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top