Need some help, No Forward: RESOLVED

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Howdy2u2

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
Brand new out of the box Nero with Diff Brain. No forward, only reverse.

Followed the reset directions in the manual for transmitter binding-No good still only reverse-

Followed Throttle Set up-

Neutral 1 Green flash-OK
Forward NO flashes
Full brake will flash 2x which is supposed to be forward. I get no 3 flashes when trying to set Full brakes

I bound the receiver to my Senton controller seeing if I could set it for forward (knowing there would be no diff lock) Still no forward only reverse. ESC does not light up the LED when attempting to go forward, only in reverse.

Receiver FUBAR'd ??

Jumped the gun and ordered ESC and receiver. I'll have to deal with warranty when I can, I called Tower where I purchased it and Tech support is closed. With their hours and my work hours I'd never be able to talk to them and have the truck with me to diagnose. I also sent an E-mail to ARRMA and will have to wait for their response.

Literately put batteries in the charger to charge while opening the box..............install in truck.........set steering trim and dual rate.....went outside.... and reverse only...My luck, hind site-----should have stepped up to the Fazon or gotten the Kraton like I was going to. OH WELL sucks to be me!!!
 
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Heres something to try,your motor has three wires,unplug any two wires and swap,then your car will go forward .Re do the esc throttle calibration.
 
Heres something to try,your motor has three wires,unplug any two wires and swap,then your car will go forward .Re do the esc throttle calibration.

Done- now Forward- No Reverse

Forward is accomplished by moving trigger to reverse, unless I switch it on the transmitter. When I do the throttle calibration I never get a double LED flash when I move to full throttle, only if I move to full braking/ reverse. I can hold full throttle for an hour probably and never get the flashes, when I move through neutral to full braking then and only then will it double flash. After that I never get the 3 led flash for actual braking. Basically it only accepts full braking with a double LED flash (it accepts neutral with 1 flash) and nothing more.

Thank you for the help BTW
 
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Try forward, reverse, then neutral

Done- I do not get any response from the ESC when moving to full throttle no matter what pattern I try to use. Even when I bind a different transmitter I end up with the same results.

I can report that my rod ends and shaft pins are in perfect condition- No breakage!!! Oh wait........I've only been in reverse for 3 feet or running on a stand..........LOL
 
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Talked with Tech support, they believe the trims are off. I find it hard to believe but I am at work and cannot blow that theory up as of yet. I do know if I move the throttle trim I still only get full reverse. Hopefully I can get home in time to call them back and get this resolved.

Right now I have bigger truck issues
 

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Talked with Tech support, they believe the trims are off. I find it hard to believe but I am at work and cannot blow that theory up as of yet. I do know if I move the throttle trim I still only get full reverse. Hopefully I can get home in time to call them back and get this resolved.

Right now I have bigger truck issues
That looks like tons of fun
 
Well I have to send the damn thing back so they can fix it. Apparently I can't explain it well enough for them to understand the issue. Went from will not go forward to
TECH: "Well if you want to go in reverse you have to move the trigger twice"
ME: HUH? I have reverse!!! I cannot go forward even after trying to reset the throttle control.
TECH: "Are your trim settings correct?"
ME: Yes, set to exactly what page 20 in the manual shows.
TECH: "Where did you purchase this?"
ME: Tower Hobby
TECH:"Hold, I need to check your account"
ME: Ok....................
TECH: "Well you need to send it in so we can get it fixed for you"
ME: The whole truck?
TECH: "Yes, or else just the ESC, Receiver, Transmitter and motor"
ME: WOW! Really?
TECH: "Yes, I will send you a pre-paid return label in about a half hour"
ME: Um OK, I'm trying to be reasonable here but............wow.
TECH: "I do not see anything unreasonable about this, I will send you a pre- paid label."
ME: Is there a possibility that Tower would take this back?
TECH: "Not sure, you would have to contact them."
ME: OK, Just send me the label and I will contact them about this meanwhile................

So no attempt at diagnosis, no going through settings, no asking about LED indications on the ESC............Just send it in.............$600 brick that has more road miles in a box than on its wheels. Obviously by my photo above, I fix stuff. BIG stuff, I at least try to diagnose over the phone and help customers out BEFORE having to go to the job site. If it saves them money, all is good. We get a customer that knows we will at least attempt to help the best we can over the phone and get them up and running, if not we have to make a service call. The customer knows that and we know that, I understand things happen. BUT,when there is no attempt to actually try to resolve the issue when the product is brand new out of the box and doesn't work. No attempt to run through resetting every possible function to see if it can be resolved over the phone.............I question "Tech support"

Might say I'm a little miffed about this right now..............................................
 
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I am very sorry for you that you´re ESC is not working correctly, but I had a little smile when I had red you´re discussion with tech support.
Same as everywhere. Save money and hire a guy which can make "smalltalk" on the phone.
I is not important that these guy has technical skills or so. I is horrible, but it is up to us to tell the company that the tech support is .....
I am polite and will say "Not so good".

But back to theme. A colleague of mine had not the same, but similar problem.
Backward was all OK but forward with very less power. Like a car with pulled handbrake.
The reason for that: He pushed while driving the buttons below the steering wheel and changed the endpoints.

Before you send back the car;
Do you tried to reset the transmitter? Otherwise you can take a servo and hook it on the throttle channel of the receiver just for testing.
The ESC can be tested with a servo tester.
But you have put external power on the RX. If the servo just runs in one direction from the middle, than it may happens that you have the same "problem" like my colleague..

Regards,
lonee
 
OK I wrote a lot of stuff, but re-reading the post...Have you EVER got any response from forward throttle? if not it could be the transmitter not sending forward throttle signal (or receiver not sending forward throttle signal). If you have another radio/receiver you can test this theory

If you do then it must be the trims imo, same thing with my Fazon, no reverse, fiddle with throttle trim and comes back. Its Very precise. I did not change trim out of box, it worked fine, but over a few runs I must of bumped it.

Eventhough reverse didn't work, it still BREAKS (not as in broken, but slowing down). So with throttle forward, see if its atleast applying break to the motor.

If it DOES then ESC might be set up for forward only runnin and motor wires are reversed or ESC set up for reverse rotation (from factory? hmm)... if it doesn't and does not after trimming trims then there is a disconnect somewhere. I would re-program the ESC back to factory and if that doesn't work see my first paragraph.
 
Took my outcast out to show some people after 30sec it stopped working..no forward or backwards lol,tried every thing, all esc modes work apart from factory reset,contacted arrma they told me they've had this issue before and I should try cleaning the switch..did that still not working. It's got to be a faulty etc, I'm now waiting for a response from them. Not having good experience with arrma i've got a outcast and typhon which I've had for a month and both are broke, and I'm in the UK so I struggle to get parts.
 
I believe the BLX200 is a rebranded HobbyWing max8 ESC, if so I would be hesitant to fault the ESC, since i've never managed to burn or fault a hobbywing in years.

I think this is in same boat as howdy, trims. if trims are out of scope it will not allow you to do anything, since it prevents car from just running away when you turn it on.

The HobbyKing trackstar stuff is really finicky also with trims needing to be set perfect.
 
@alibby456
Correct I never had forward from the start ever out of the box. I tried moving the throttle trim both directions, had full reverse and no forward response ever and there was no braking either- just coasting to a stop. Followed the throttle reset procedure so many times I know it by heart LOL (well I pretty much know every reset procedure by heart now) Never ever did the ESC respond to the full throttle forward position on the transmitter. I did bind the receiver to another transmitter with the same results- no forward, only reverse. The throttle setting procedure would never respond with the correct LED indications when pressing the set button.

So with that all said I will:

UPDATE:
I'll start out like this first, as I stated above I ordered a ESC and receiver and received them today.

Install receiver first and bind to transmitter - still no forward, reverse works fine. OK, not receiver- check that off the "bad" list.

Remove and replace ESC, attempt to reset throttle- no response- same as always- reverse only. Set all trims to factory, throttle end points blah blah blah- still no reverse. OK, Not the ESC either....interesting

So by looking at the connections from the ESC to the Diff brain to the Receiver and figure they sell this with out the diff brain there has to be a way to bypass it and see what happens. I look in the manual and it shows the ESC connected to the receiver in slot #2. OK, disconnect ESC from Diff brain and go directly from ESC to the Receiver. Perform Throttle reset........................................... SHAZAMMMMMMMMMMMM

I HAVE FORWARD/ REVERSE/ BRAKING and ALL THE DIFFS LOCK LIKE THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So with that said IF and only IF "Tech Support" would have MAYBE jussssssssssttttttttttttttttt MAYBE TRIED some diagnostics and said "How about we disconnect the ESC from the Diff Brain connect it DIRECTLY to the Receiver and see if we have forward" It could have been diagnosed that the Diff Brain is the issue (which is what I believe I have proven at this point) Now granted there are some people who might not be inclined to or be comfortable about digging in to their RC so I will give them that. Maybe ask if I would be willing to perform some diagnosis so I could either agree to it or decline and send it in for repairs.

So at this point I have an extra ESC and Receiver for my Nero..........and what I believe a faulty Diff Brain.(The only thing I didn't order LOL) I am going to contact support again VIA E-mail and see if they will exchange out the Diff brain. If not, I'll buy one of those and go from there.........From this I have learned "Tech Support" ummm not so much. Yup I'm out $160 in what are now spare parts and maybe need to purchase a Diff brain. I can tell you this though I have taught myself how to DIAGNOSE this damn thing..............unlike cough cough "Tech Support"

TLDR;
I fixed it by connecting the ESC directly to the Receiver and have all functions operating including the Diff locks.
THANK YOU to all that gave suggestions and attempted to help to get this resolved!!!!!!!!! I appreciate it!!!
 
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I'm glad you were able to find out the issue! So the diff brain part was causing the issues...huh!! I had not even dug into mine enough to of known that it went ESC - Diff Brain - RX. Good Catch! I bet Arrma will send you a new one, They seem pretty good on parts, especially faulty ones like this appears to be.
 
I'm glad you were able to find out the issue! So the diff brain part was causing the issues...huh!! I had not even dug into mine enough to of known that it went ESC - Diff Brain - RX. Good Catch! I bet Arrma will send you a new one, They seem pretty good on parts, especially faulty ones like this appears to be.

Yup, I emailed them last night when I figured it out. They replied that they will send me one.
 
Diff brain end point adjustment would of fixed your issue. I had this problem adjusted the end point once finished everything worked
 
Diff brain end point adjustment would of fixed your issue. I had this problem adjusted the end point once finished everything worked

Not exactly sure what your talking about here for a diff brain end point. Nothing I found in the manual for such a setting, and I have read it cover to cover several times. Attempted all resets on everything re-settable with the same result- NO forward. There is a throttle end point setting which I hold the + and still nothing happened with the trigger pulled for full forward. End point adjustment for reverse works fine, set it wherever I want.

I'll repeat this again: If I go through the throttle reset procedure WITH the diff brain connected the ESC does NOT recognize forward full throttle setting, Neutral- 1 LED flash/ Full forward-NO double flash EVER until I pass through neutral towards full braking and then there are 2 LED flashes that are supposed to be for forward/ Full braking- NO LED flashes EVER= end result of NO forward.

Now if I connect the ESC directly to the receiver on slot #2 I can set neutral/ forward/ full braking correctly IE: Neutral 1 LED flash/ Forward 2 LED flashes/ Full braking- 3 LED flashes and reset power and I have full control of the truck.

So tonight I connected all the wiring in its factory position and NO forward.........................Remove diff brain and I have full function.
 
I do not understand what the endpoint adjustment has to do with the throttle impulse.
Sure, I forget that the diff brain board is in-between the signal line RX -> ESC.
It reduce the throttle while switching the locks on or off.
The main point is why it is possible that these board had lost his settings, if that is the reason for this issue.
I red some more times over readjustment from this board in case that the servos are buzzing...
Maybe Howdy2u2 can make a readjustment with his board and can tell us more.
...if thinking more about that.... In case that the board is giving free the throttle signal free AFTER it had switched the lock, than it make sense that it will be OK after a new adjustment.
But the question of loosing settings still happens.
I think the better way will be to realize this function with firmware in a controller. But that will be a little more expensive cause we need more channels and a programmable TX. Also a more than 3ch RX.

Regards and have a nice weekend,
lonee
 
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