Nero Drivability...personal observation

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Afro Samurai

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Arrma RC's
  1. Nero
I was watching a YouTube video...maybe you have come across it...but the guy complained about parts breakage. .but prefaced it with the understanding that he was really bashing it. ..kind of over the top..ok..understanding that the car isn't indestructible I can move on from there...but the thing that I didn't necessarily agree with was his views of the modes being useless...and I may be mixing his views with other comments..but ok...

from my experience. .i see it this way....I like the modes...I see their use when I try to use them...meaning...I am running on 6s...so when you are just playing around...yanking the throttle..then subtle differences in the mode are much harder to sense because the main overwhelming characteristic demonstrated consistently in every mode is the cars ability to wheelie violently to the extent of doing a back flip...

example..
low traction surfaces + any mode + aggressive throttle = wheelie or back flip

high traction surfaces +any mode +aggressive throttle = wheelie or back flip


get the point?..either run 4s setup ...which may or may not change things..or more importantly. ..exercise better throttle control. ...but either way have fun...when done with some restraint. ..I have been able to do different things with the different modes...but keep in mind that all modes are wheelie capable. ..
 
I think I understand what you are saying, alot of people when bashing may not really be able to grasp how the different difflock modes are affecting how it handles, like you said esp if you are putting 6S power to it. I think that if you didn't mash the throttle or used 4S you would be able to measure better acceleration performance with some of the modes, particularly on loose and very-loose surfaces - I've seen plenty of MT in sand and ball-fields throwing much more dirt up in the air off a single tire, which means they're getting much less power down to the wheels with traction.

I absolutely can feel and see a difference when the center diff and rear diff are loose. With a loose center i'm always spinning the front wheels on loose surfaces, and with a loose rear in a corner I'll start to spin the inside wheel hard on tight turns. That is why I run 1M cSt in the center and 500K in the rear, force as much power to front+back as I can, and turn the rear into a near-positraction configuration. (Just a note - this configuration is great for my bashing and its become predictable to me, but on a track its slower for me primarily because I'm holding back in order to limit oversteer)
 
I think I understand what you are saying, alot of people when bashing may not really be able to grasp how the different difflock modes are affecting how it handles, like you said esp if you are putting 6S power to it. I think that if you didn't mash the throttle or used 4S you would be able to measure better acceleration performance with some of the modes, particularly on loose and very-loose surfaces - I've seen plenty of MT in sand and ball-fields throwing much more dirt up in the air off a single tire, which means they're getting much less power down to the wheels with traction.

I absolutely can feel and see a difference when the center diff and rear diff are loose. With a loose center i'm always spinning the front wheels on loose surfaces, and with a loose rear in a corner I'll start to spin the inside wheel hard on tight turns. That is why I run 1M cSt in the center and 500K in the rear, force as much power to front+back as I can, and turn the rear into a near-positraction configuration. (Just a note - this configuration is great for my bashing and its become predictable to me, but on a track its slower for me primarily because I'm holding back in order to limit oversteer)
I figure it this way. I drift in my HPI sprint 2 flux. I crawl with my stampede and volcano. I am looking at this truck without the smart diffs as an advanced Kraton with more power and an advanced suspension. I like simple too. For me? I love speed and jumps with the big boy trucks. I am sure down the road I will end up buying the diff brain eventually. For me - a strong servo and big wheelie bar is more important. Also some nice new 11.1v 3s batteries are great too. I have read too many issues with diffs locked up permanently and the clip on the brain not working due to using it at speed.
 
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