Big Rock Nero with diff brain

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Mattmann

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Hey there everyone, I recently got "gifted" a couple of arrma vehicles. I happy as all get out being as I'm pretty poor and all that. Anyway, one of them is the Nero 6s with diff brain. I assessed the problems and fixed all but one. So I took out the one problem servo on the back diff, then upon thinking, I took out the front as well. My question is, should I take out the lockers in them as well or is leaving them in okay? Also what configuration is okay with the center diff still hooked up? Thanks mattmann.
 
Mattmann said:
Hey there everyone, I recently got "gifted" a couple of arrma vehicles. I happy as all get out being as I'm pretty poor and all that. Anyway, one of them is the Nero 6s with diff brain. I assessed the problems and fixed all but one. So I took out the one problem servo on the back diff, then upon thinking, I took out the front as well. My question is, should I take out the lockers in them as well or is leaving them in okay? Also what configuration is okay with the center diff still hooked up? Thanks mattmann.
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The lockers are great. If you remove the lockers and do the screw mod to seal the holes you can run oil on them. If you run the lockers use grease and keep the center locked at almost all time.

Do not bash with the front and rear locked Or u risk to break the driveshaft pins who act as a fuze. 90% of the oarts can still be bough. Some of the discontinued parts include the body, front lower suspension arm, original servo mounts a diff shim. You can get the servo saver mount from hot racing. I was lucky to get the originals from my hobbyshop. The front lower arms can be found still everywhere online but on HH its discontinued. Same for the body and tires unfortunately. One part you should get asap is the rod ends and shock setup. The rod ends sre not biffier vs original.

The nero is by far one of the best handling 6s vehicle even with the HIgher center of gravity chassis it carries mainly due to the steering assembly. It turns sharper than anything i ever owned. Berely any on the steering.

Replace them when the original breaks. For the suspension go with kraton v5 rear springs and 1.4mm pistons with 2000cst or 1000cst 1.3 pistons. Stock is 1.2mm with 3000cst with the stiffest springs you could imagine. Stock suspension is way too hard. Main conplain with the vehicle. I went a step further designed new spring perches and drilled the skid plates to get twice as more ground travel. The original spring perches likes to pull the shock ends at an odd angle

Amazing truck you got gifted. If the body is in good shape reinforce it with shoegoe and drywall. Or get an undestructible one and stickers on ebay if you want a factory look without fear of tearing up the OG.

But threat it respectfully don't go too crazy with it the stock motor is beastly made of better quality material than any motor in the market right now. These cars are pretty nose heavy. Thats why i qent one tooth up on mine. Tried to backflips it last time i qent out i broke an axle pin. Another common break is the driveshaft pin. I nose landed on power.
 
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I have one, it is currently broken, but I plan on buying the parts soon. It is a fun car when working. Due to limited parts availability, I would not recommend bashing this car very hard.
 
Welcome...forgive my ignorance but what the hell is a Diff Brain..?

Do you have Krang in your diff..? :ROFLMAO:

8Ul.gif
 

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