Big Rock Never too hot. But hot enough a few times

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Big Rock Never too hot. But hot enough a few times

Steve38

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So as some of you have seen ive been all over this forum in almost every category. With problems from my super newbness to things that have stumped some of the more knowledable folks. Ive been "so pissed" to feeling saved from advice from lots of you all. But even to a newb with some common sense some of these problems seem too advanced or untimely as to harshness of driving and amount of time driven.

So, after pulling these diffs and REALLY looking at them the whole outside assembly is warped to hell! Front and rear. And multiple other smaller issues of binding here and there .

Heres what I think. 🤷. I was wanting to run anytime I could pull 15min of time. Its over an hr to work longer depending on traffic. Usually. In my little Mazda I drive to work it doesn't have A/C. I would keep it covered or out of the sun. Then run a bit in the sun. Back to car to sit in a parking garage. I would keep the battery in a battery bag in the office cause didnt take up much space. Or the truck would ride in my work van getting cool from the hella good A/C. Then pretty warm when I was out longer than anticipated.

So after a long winded preface. I think its been almost too hot a few times and back to cool. Sometimes and it's warped diff plastic parts and made metal parts easier to bend.

Thoughts? Do you all know what all it could warp? Or am I just totally wrong?
 

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I don’t think so. Plastic parts surrounding the engine in my granite hit 140f+. Engine runs around 150f and hits 170f. I’ve left my voltage in the car on 100 degree days with no issue. These plastics are tough. I don’t see temps getting hot enough in your car to hurt them. I know the shells are more delicate. I warped the heck out of one shell using a hairdryer to try to remove stickers. So if your shell is not warping in the heat…
Curious to see what others may know on the subject. Like do some plastics have a heat rating?
 

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Ugh. Hit to the stomach. Ok then. What all causes diffs to warp? And other than my driving can i do to reduce impacts on the nose? Taking big ass nose piece off. Best bumper to get? Tbone? And yes.....im working on my driving. 😂
And I guess that is good news cause now I don't have to leave it at home when I get it running 👊👌👍
 

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Ugh. Hit to the stomach. Ok then. What all causes diffs to warp? And other than my driving can i do to reduce impacts on the nose? Taking big ass nose piece off. Best bumper to get? Tbone? And yes.....im working on my driving. 😂
And I guess that is good news cause now I don't have to leave it at home when I get it running 👊👌👍
Hold your horses man. See if someone who knows these plastic types better responds. Honestly I’m just guessing. I could easily be wrong. What nose piece do you mean? I run TBone bumpers on all 6 rigs. On the granite I just don’t connect them to the bulkheads. On the others I do.
 

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Ive got 1 of those 3d printed nose pieces. Its not its fault lol. Just it feels super heavy so maybe helps me keep the nose up more often. Prob not enough weight to make much diff tho

16269280945496766922824524534049.jpg
 

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Well to put it this way, someone in town here just had all their windows blow out of their car because an old tire blew up inside the vehicle. Sent glass into there house and siding. So if a tire can blow up I can see it getting hot enough to warp plastic. The metal though is fine you will never reach temps hot enough.
 

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When I was living in Texas I seen/heard some crazy hot blowouts but usually on the road tires😯
 

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When I was living in Texas I seen/heard some crazy hot blowouts but usually on the road tires😯
I'm in ontario canada to boot. So it's even more odd for it to happen. We got a crazy heat wave. Well heat wave to us anyways. Normal temps for the lower states.
 

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Well to put it this way, someone in town here just had all their windows blow out of their car because an old tire blew up inside the vehicle. Sent glass into there house and siding. So if a tire can blow up I can see it getting hot enough to warp plastic. The metal though is fine you will never reach temps hot enough.
Gotta love Google. Most of the plastic parts in Arrma cars (And other remote control cars) are made from thermal plastic nylon that has melting points of 220°C. So I think it’s OK. As for for the tire that blew up… if it was an old tire with too much air in it I absolutely see that. But that’s a rubber tire filled with airThat can expand in the heat, Not a solid plastic piece. There’s no relation between the two.
 

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Ive got 1 of those 3d printed nose pieces. Its not its fault lol. Just it feels super heavy so maybe helps me keep the nose up more often. Prob not enough weight to make much diff tho

View attachment 159512
I have that on my granite. There really lite and do a good job protecting the nose so I think you’re OK

image.jpg
 

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the material would have to be under stress while heated to warp and then cool in that state. So if the car was hot and something HEAVY was on top of various parts and then it cooled while it still had that weight, then maybe. But even a car on all 4 wheels with the weight on the suspension shouldn't matter, certainly no stress on the diffs.
 

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Ok well. Sh**! 🤔😂. So heres what im gonna do.....new diffs in today. I'll install tonight after work. Gonna check for binding anywhere. Gotta straighten the motor plate. Then I'll run her b4 work tom and hope for the best. Lol. Thanks guys I appreciate keeping me from being on my own wild goose chases. 👍
Ok well. Sh**! 🤔😂. So heres what im gonna do.....new diffs in today. I'll install tonight after work. Gonna check for binding anywhere. Gotta straighten the motor plate. Then I'll run her b4 work tom and hope for the best. Lol. Thanks guys I appreciate keeping me from being on my own wild goose chases. 👍
Anyone know where to grab a m2c plate without the brace part? Don't wanna throw 70 at a plate. Cause till im better at all this HR plate won't hold up.
 

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Ok well. Sh**! 🤔😂. So heres what im gonna do.....new diffs in today. I'll install tonight after work. Gonna check for binding anywhere. Gotta straighten the motor plate. Then I'll run her b4 work tom and hope for the best. Lol. Thanks guys I appreciate keeping me from being on my own wild goose chases. 👍

Anyone know where to grab a m2c plate without the brace part? Don't wanna throw 70 at a plate. Cause till im better at all this HR plate won't hold up.
Just hammer the hr one out with a rubber mallet. It bends just a fraction of what the stock one bends for me. The one on my granite I hammered out three times. I don’t worry about it bending since I pull the motor every 2-3 runs so I tend to catch issues before they start. I also have two more HR mounts on hand for the when this one gives in. $15 vs $70+ shipping…
 

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Thats my plan. Well was till my 1:1 broke down on way to work. Plan just got put off lmao😜
 

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A bearing on the driveshaft into the carrier?? Or just inside on the diff

20210722_165109.jpg
 

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A bearing on the driveshaft into the carrier?? Or just inside on the diff

View attachment 159604
Not the drive shaft. Attracts dirt. Fill the diff up bout an 1/8” from top with diff oil. Grease the outside of the diff where it sits in the yoke. I use team ass. 10k oil in the diff and red and tacky in the yoke.
Not the drive shaft. Attracts dirt. Fill the diff up bout an 1/8” from top with diff oil. Grease the outside of the diff where it sits in the yoke. I use team ass. 10k oil in the diff and red and tacky in the yoke.
You meant what I answered, right? Or something else and I missed it?
 

Steve38

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Not the drive shaft. Attracts dirt. Fill the diff up bout an 1/8” from top with diff oil. Grease the outside of the diff where it sits in the yoke. I use team ass. 10k oil in the diff and red and tacky in the yoke.

You meant what I answered, right? Or something else and I missed it?
😆. Yep exactly what I meant. I got my new ones from jennys. Opened them up and they are good and greased on the out. Super smooth. The others were rubbing somewhere in chassis also. These are great!

And thanks a million for ur knowledge sir!
😆. Yep exactly what I meant. I got my new ones from jennys. Opened them up and they are good and greased on the out. Super smooth. The others were rubbing somewhere in chassis also. These are great!

And thanks a million for ur knowledge sir!
Whats stock diff oil??? So I should say they are full
 

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😆. Yep exactly what I meant. I got my new ones from jennys. Opened them up and they are good and greased on the out. Super smooth. The others were rubbing somewhere in chassis also. These are great!

And thanks a million for ur knowledge sir!

Whats stock diff oil??? So I should say they are full
10k is stock. The one car that I serviced the diffs was the granite when I converted it to brushless. I filled 1/8th” from top and was very careful not to get it in the pin holes. I didn’t replace the gasket as they were fine. I haven’t messed with the vorteks or big rock yet. Just running them as they came. I got back up diffs lol.
 

Steve38

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10k is stock. The one car that I serviced the diffs was the granite when I converted it to brushless. I filled 1/8th” from top and was very careful not to get it in the pin holes. I didn’t replace the gasket as they were fine. I haven’t messed with the vorteks or big rock yet. Just running them as they came. I got back up diffs lol.
Would having these longer ZD shocks put a bunch more stress to attached parts? I was totally thinking now I have shock oil to refill the stock shocks and use them. But I really like the stance of the ZDs
 
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