New 1717-1650kv castle

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New 1717-1650kv castle

PshmokN’EM887

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I have the 1717-1260kv castle and it gets hot fast so castle recommended the 1650kv what gearing should I go with for 80-90 mph.
how can I fix the hooking to the right when I’m doing a pass I tried turnbuckles helped a bit what else please help thanks !
 

PshmokN’EM887

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How are people getting the 1717 1260kv???? I only see the 1650kv?????
Horizon hobby I’ve had it for the whole summer and it started cogging really bad so I ordered the 1717-1650 and yeah I get tips from Jon he’s the one that told me to contact castle for warranty repair and it worked .
 

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Didnt they recently rerelease the 1717 in 1650 only? I haven't even seen the 1260 on their web page. I'm just curious cause I keep hearing about the 1260 bt never see it around online. It doesn't matter cause I would have still gone with the 1650 but I'm scratching my head wondering how I missed the choice.
 

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I have the 1717-1260kv castle and it gets hot fast so castle recommended the 1650kv what gearing should I go with for 80-90 mph.
how can I fix the hooking to the right when I’m doing a pass I tried turnbuckles helped a bit what else please help thanks !
What ESC are you running?

The 1650kv is supposedly more efficient. I own both and should really do some testing to see if that holds water.

As far as dialing in your launch, you need to get the whole car flat neutral as far as toe, camber, and link lengths. Next is ensuring your droop is dead even too. Then your shocks need equal preload and fluid levels.

Now make a hit. If it goes right off the hit, it generally means the left side is higher and is getting more traction. Lower the droop on the left 1/8 a turn and make another hit. Keep tweaking until you dial it in. I find it essential to launch from the exact same spot to ensure your surface delta is as close to zero as possible.

Keep in mind that diff fluid will thin as you make hits over and over which will greatly affect straight line ability. While I couldn’t get lockers to hold up to the brutal power of drag hits, I do like my diffs as stiff as possible. I’m running 3x LSD EXB diffs with 500k fluid. They seem to hold up to the power I’m putting down. But after 10 or so hits they warm up enough that they loosen up. At that point I let the car cool off and grab a second rig. I do these heat and cool cycles until I run the packs down. Or until I break them both somehow.
Didnt they recently rerelease the 1717 in 1650 only? I haven't even seen the 1260 on their web page. I'm just curious cause I keep hearing about the 1260 bt never see it around online. It doesn't matter cause I would have still gone with the 1650 but I'm scratching my head wondering how I missed the choice.
https://www.castlecreations.com/en/1-6th-scale-1/castle-1717-1y-sensored-motor-1260kv-060-0082-00
 

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I have the 1717-1260kv castle and it gets hot fast so castle recommended the 1650kv what gearing should I go with for 80-90 mph.
how can I fix the hooking to the right when I’m doing a pass I tried turnbuckles helped a bit what else please help thanks !
Check your droop and shocks to make sure it's even. If it's lower on the right it will cause the car to veer right. Not sure what diff oil your running but if it's too light could have one side spinning while the other is getting traction pulling you that way.
 

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I have the 1717-1260kv castle and it gets hot fast so castle recommended the 1650kv what gearing should I go with for 80-90 mph.
how can I fix the hooking to the right when I’m doing a pass I tried turnbuckles helped a bit what else please help thanks !
I dumped my 1260 cuz of that. Went 1650 and geared it accordingly and she was fine.
 

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What ESC are you running?

The 1650kv is supposedly more efficient. I own both and should really do some testing to see if that holds water.

As far as dialing in your launch, you need to get the whole car flat neutral as far as toe, camber, and link lengths. Next is ensuring your droop is dead even too. Then your shocks need equal preload and fluid levels.

Now make a hit. If it goes right off the hit, it generally means the left side is higher and is getting more traction. Lower the droop on the left 1/8 a turn and make another hit. Keep tweaking until you dial it in. I find it essential to launch from the exact same spot to ensure your surface delta is as close to zero as possible.

Keep in mind that diff fluid will thin as you make hits over and over which will greatly affect straight line ability. While I couldn’t get lockers to hold up to the brutal power of drag hits, I do like my diffs as stiff as possible. I’m running 3x LSD EXB diffs with 500k fluid. They seem to hold up to the power I’m putting down. But after 10 or so hits they warm up enough that they loosen up. At that point I let the car cool off and grab a second rig. I do these heat and cool cycles until I run the packs down. Or until I break them both somehow.

https://www.castlecreations.com/en/1-6th-scale-1/castle-1717-1y-sensored-motor-1260kv-060-0082-00
I'm trippin right now. I just went on the castle site and hit "shop 1717 motors" and only the 1650 shows up. CONSPYRACY!!! :unsure::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Oh well its nothing but still tripping me out. You just showed me proof its there and I still cant find it on my own. hahaha


ok went on again and its how their site is. if you search motors any other way it shows up. but if you shearch shop 1717 motors only the 1650 shows up. ok Done...sorry guys. Carry on. haha
Freakin noobs huh?!!!
 
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PshmokN’EM887

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What ESC are you running?

The 1650kv is supposedly more efficient. I own both and should really do some testing to see if that holds water.

As far as dialing in your launch, you need to get the whole car flat neutral as far as toe, camber, and link lengths. Next is ensuring your droop is dead even too. Then your shocks need equal preload and fluid levels.

Now make a hit. If it goes right off the hit, it generally means the left side is higher and is getting more traction. Lower the droop on the left 1/8 a turn and make another hit. Keep tweaking until you dial it in. I find it essential to launch from the exact same spot to ensure your surface delta is as close to zero as possible.

Keep in mind that diff fluid will thin as you make hits over and over which will greatly affect straight line ability. While I couldn’t get lockers to hold up to the brutal power of drag hits, I do like my diffs as stiff as possible. I’m running 3x LSD EXB diffs with 500k fluid. They seem to hold up to the power I’m putting down. But after 10 or so hits they warm up enough that they loosen up. At that point I let the car cool off and grab a second rig. I do these heat and cool cycles until I run the packs down. Or until I break them both somehow.

https://www.castlecreations.com/en/1-6th-scale-1/castle-1717-1y-sensored-motor-1260kv-060-0082-00
500k in F/C/R diffs ? Thanks Jon I’ll definitely follow that advice now that I’m putting the 1650kv maintenance time I’m going with the mmxs 8s I’m thinking 34t spool 27t-26t Robinson pinion should get me up there what do you think ?
 

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F5715E1B-3652-42A1-B651-E885050F306D.jpeg
500k in F/C/R diffs ? Thanks Jon I’ll definitely follow that advice now that I’m putting the 1650kv maintenance time I’m going with the mmxs 8s I’m thinking 34t spool 27t-26t Robinson pinion should get me up there what do you think ?
You’ll want to make sure your motor mount will reach w that gearing. W the 1650kv I ran the RR 25/40 gear set. I believe it’s for the limitless. You’re going to want to refresh ur driveline when making the jump to 1/7-1/6 sized power.
 

jondilly1974

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500k in F/C/R diffs ? Thanks Jon I’ll definitely follow that advice now that I’m putting the 1650kv maintenance time I’m going with the mmxs 8s I’m thinking 34t spool 27t-26t Robinson pinion should get me up there what do you think ?
What type of drag hits are you doing? What tires? The 34T spool might be a little small for drag hits. I was doing mine with a 46T spur on an Infraction diff with earplugs. Spool might be ok too, but probably need at least a 40T spur IMO.
 

PshmokN’EM887

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What type of drag hits are you doing? What tires? The 34T spool might be a little small for drag hits. I was doing mine with a 46T spur on an Infraction diff with earplugs. Spool might be ok too, but probably need at least a 40T spur IMO.
Really I’ll put the 46t diff back in then I’m happy with 90mph. I want straight of the line I really want to get into drag racing and I’m practicing really they do arrma vs traxxas drag money races here on the island, so Im really trying to set up for drag straight and fast off the line hits Jon also high 34t and 30t pinion wouldn’t mess a motor up right ? that’s what I had in with the 1717-1260kv that’s going to castle is the one that won’t stop cogging and doesn’t go above 2 mph .
 

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Really I’ll put the 46t diff back in then I’m happy with 90mph. I want straight of the line I really want to get into drag racing and I’m practicing really they do arrma vs traxxas drag money races here on the island, so Im really trying to set up for drag straight and fast off the line hits Jon also high 34t and 30t pinion wouldn’t mess a motor up right ? that’s what I had in with the 1717-1260kv that’s going to castle is the one that won’t stop cogging and doesn’t go above 2 mph .
The cogging I had was due to a defective MMX8S ESC. I guess it could happen if you are overgeared too. I would think those pinions are a little large for drag hits, but you will need to test and see. I would aim to get your gearing in the 80mph range and see how well it hooks off the hit. I would buy a whole range of pinions for testing. I would also buy lipo warmers too as it really helps a lot.
 

PshmokN’EM887

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The cogging I had was due to a defective MMX8S ESC. I guess it could happen if you are overgeared too. I would think those pinions are a little large for drag hits, but you will need to test and see. I would aim to get your gearing in the 80mph range and see how well it hooks off the hit. I would buy a whole range of pinions for testing. I would also buy lipo warmers too as it really helps a lot.
I hookd up the 1650kv up to the esc it throttle right follow all commands ,I hope it was only the motor .
I’m going to wait to set the 1650 up and run it and see if the symptoms show if so I’ll send it together, but I did do hard breaking on fast hits all motor breaking too that might do it so I’ll test like you said I’ll keep the motor pinion in the 20s for now and 500k on all diffs right ?
I hookd up the 1650kv up to the esc it throttle right follow all commands ,I hope it was only the motor .
I’m going to wait to set the 1650 up and run it and see if the symptoms show if so I’ll send it together, but I did do hard breaking on fast hits all motor breaking too that might do it so I’ll test like you said I’ll keep the motor pinion in the 20s for now and 500k on all diffs right ?
Oh what are lipo warmers?
 

jondilly1974

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I hookd up the 1650kv up to the esc it throttle right follow all commands ,I hope it was only the motor .
I’m going to wait to set the 1650 up and run it and see if the symptoms show if so I’ll send it together, but I did do hard breaking on fast hits all motor breaking too that might do it so I’ll test like you said I’ll keep the motor pinion in the 20s for now and 500k on all diffs right ?

Oh what are lipo warmers?
I have a suspicion that hard braking might be what damages the ESC. I would turn your brakes down to under 50% for sure.

Lipo warmers are made by Turnigy and need a 12v DC input to keep the packs warm, which increases their performance. You’ll want to keep your packs in the warmers until your ready to make a hit.
 

PshmokN’EM887

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I have a suspicion that hard braking might be what damages the ESC. I would turn your brakes down to under 50% for sure.

Lipo warmers are made by Turnigy and need a 12v DC input to keep the packs warm, which increases their performance. You’ll want to keep your packs in the warmers until your ready to make a hit.
Shoot nice man first time hearing about the lipo warmers ! Will get them take my money haha
Really like I would get to 85mph and start breaking right after jon I had my setting on the esc’s at 90% that’s way too high I’m thinking now but I do passes on a somewhat Main Street so if I see car I have to start breaking hard anyways that’s what I’m thinking, you know more than me that’s a fact, but running the 1717/1650kv motor this weekend I’ll let you know if the esc is a paperweight like the motor is right now.
One thing is plug and try in hand one is running it.
 

jondilly1974

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Shoot nice man first time hearing about the lipo warmers ! Will get them take my money haha
Really like I would get to 85mph and start breaking right after jon I had my setting on the esc’s at 90% that’s way too high I’m thinking now but I do passes on a somewhat Main Street so if I see car I have to start breaking hard anyways that’s what I’m thinking, you know more than me that’s a fact, but running the 1717/1650kv motor this weekend I’ll let you know if the esc is a paperweight like the motor is right now.
One thing is plug and try in hand one is running it.
Good luck brother. Let us know how it goes.
 
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