Kraton New Arrma 4s 2022 models.

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The 4S trucks are plenty good for what they are.

But the 6S trucks are much, much better. Center diff, alum chassis, steel driveshafts, beefier diffs, etc.

You’d only need a few parts to transform that Kraton into a Notorious, if that’s your end goal

I say 6s as well but I have an unbridled hatred for the Arrma 4x4 platform.
 
The 4S trucks are plenty good for what they are.

But the 6S trucks are much, much better. Center diff, alum chassis, steel driveshafts, beefier diffs, etc.

You’d only need a few parts to transform that Kraton into a Notorious, if that’s your end goal.
I edited my post above, my Kraton is the well worn car, not the Typhon - and right now I'm not keen on converting the Kraton to a Notorious, I think where I live, the conversion will cost near US$100, if I were to refresh some worn parts - diff input gears, bulkheads, a rear diff maybe and a body. Perhaps less economical than it sounds on paper.

One thing I am very curious to know is just how good an extra Center diff is - compared to the cost of maintaining it. You go to the 6s forum and everyone including myself is complaining about heat, debating the diff oil viscosity, screws backing off, shimming the thing here and there and generally needing the aluminium upgrade right off the bat. I am have a strong preference to stay stock as parts are very expensively marked up in my country and hard to come by anyway.
 
One thing I am very curious to know is just how good an extra Center diff is - compared to the cost of maintaining it. You go to the 6s forum and everyone including myself is complaining about heat, debating the diff oil viscosity, screws backing off, shimming the thing here and there and generally needing the aluminium upgrade right off the bat. I am have a strong preference to stay stock as parts are very expensively marked up in my country and hard to come by anyway.
I can only speak to my own experience.

I have about ten Arrma 6S cars and none of them have stock power systems. Only one has EXB diffs. Only one has an aluminum center diff cup.

I’ve never busted diff internals or a spur gear. I’ve busted a few sets of ring/input gears, usually due to a cracked bullhead. Very limited issues IMO.

A lot of problems you hear about are user error. Landing jumps on throttle. Turning punch to max setting. Installing super heavy tires. Ignoring bad bearings. Etc.

Treat the car right and it’ll treat you right.
 
I can only speak to my own experience.

I have about ten Arrma 6S cars and none of them have stock power systems. Only one has EXB diffs. Only one has an aluminum center diff cup.

I’ve never busted diff internals or a spur gear. I’ve busted a few sets of ring/input gears, usually due to a cracked bullhead. Very limited issues IMO.

A lot of problems you hear about are user error. Landing jumps on throttle. Turning punch to max setting. Installing super heavy tires. Ignoring bad bearings. Etc.

Treat the car right and it’ll treat you right.
Thats great to hear. I was about to give up on Arrma, but alas it is by far the most commonly sold non-Chinese RC brand. I have decided to stick with Arrma out of necessary parts support.

Do you have to rebuild your standard plastic diffs every 20 packs as per manual? If yes what do you actually change? The oil due to metal shavings?
 
I can only speak to my own experience.

I have about ten Arrma 6S cars and none of them have stock power systems. Only one has EXB diffs. Only one has an aluminum center diff cup.

I’ve never busted diff internals or a spur gear. I’ve busted a few sets of ring/input gears, usually due to a cracked bullhead. Very limited issues IMO.

A lot of problems you hear about are user error. Landing jumps on throttle. Turning punch to max setting. Installing super heavy tires. Ignoring bad bearings. Etc.

Treat the car right and it’ll treat you right.
Someone who doesn't bash hard gets diffs broken here and there on the rtr but on someone who bashes hard their diff doesn't even blink. Its a mess. Instead of gambling on RNG i put a metal gearbox on the rear of my bashers and exb diffs on both of them. The RTR front of my exb went to crap cut my finger open. Both outdrives stuck inside the hole they once went trought and A few shark tooth on the pinion and crown gear. Was so bad i get a mini Brain gasm when The outdrives slide so smoothtly out of the diff and cup On my exb diffs. the RTR diffs are good on the mojave and typhon but the longer arm trucks with big meats thats pushing it.
Thats great to hear. I was about to give up on Arrma, but alas it is by far the most commonly sold non-Chinese RC brand. I have decided to stick with Arrma out of necessary parts support.

Do you have to rebuild your standard plastic diffs every 20 packs as per manual? If yes what do you actually change? The oil due to metal shavings?
I change my diff fluid once a year ussualy lol. During winter or the end of it. I don't think ima do anything this year to them. Didnt run much at all this season. I don't like to mess with grease. When i open my diffs i make sure there is no a single spot of grease anywhere on the outside of the gearbox. i do not want my gearboxes to become an habitat to a mud creature if you get what i mean
 
Do you have to rebuild your standard plastic diffs every 20 packs as per manual? If yes what do you actually change? The oil due to metal shavings?
Nah I don’t follow any maintenance routine. I only open the diffs if I want to change the oil weight. Oil gets lighter over time.
 
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