New body flake.

[kspitters]

I painted a clear body. My process was to scuff all of the body very well except for the windows, which I was leaving clear. Then, warm water and blue dawn dish soap. I went back through with scotch brite pad a second time, and cleaned with dawn again. I sprayed Tamiya ps gunmetal with very light coats, probably around 7-8 coats.

Now the issue. Around the hood area, the paint has started to flake a little. Any ideas what I did wrong, I really don’t want that to happen again. I’ve ran it 4 times, and about 2 square cm are clear.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

I painted a clear body. My process was to scuff all of the body very well except for the windows, which I was leaving clear. Then, warm water and blue dawn dish soap. I went back through with scotch brite pad a second time, and cleaned with dawn again. I sprayed Tamiya ps gunmetal with very light coats, probably around 7-8 coats.

Now the issue. Around the hood area, the paint has started to flake a little. Any ideas what I did wrong, I really don’t want that to happen again. I’ve ran it 4 times, and about 2 square cm are clear.

I normally clean it with alcohol after I wash it with soap, not certain that is needed tho.

Edit: What temp was it when you painted?

 

[Garcbomber]

Have any photos, is it off an edge?

 

[kspitters]

I normally clean it with alcohol after I wash it with soap, not certain that is needed tho.

Edit: What temp was it when you painted?

I painted in my basement, so it was warm. Our basement is fully finished, and warmer than upstairs.

Have any photos, is it off an edge?

I’ll get one tomorrow if I remember

 

[Cereal_killer]

Tricky question without seeing pictures or even having it in hand. But normally if you use dish soap. You have to make sure that it’s cleaned off. I’ve had a few issues in the past.
Dish soap residue even though it was cleaned…
Oils left from the process/fingers.
Bad paint/bond.

I normally clean it with alcohol after I wash it with soap, not certain that is needed tho.

Edit: What temp was it when you painted?

Temperatures matter I’ve done plenty of bodies in 20 degrees dead of winter and then 90 degrees days where it just got humid. But it true it effects it. But prepping makes the biggest difference imo.

Example…. 17 degrees outside. Paint cans where in my car along with the body. Until I was ready to paint inside at work. So the paint and body had hardly any chance to warm up during that period. Granted the shop was around 50 degrees afterwards I let it sit for a couple days to cure. Edit. Only thing that I did do was warm the cans up with a heat gun for about a minute.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I painted a clear body. My process was to scuff all of the body very well except for the windows, which I was leaving clear. Then, warm water and blue dawn dish soap. I went back through with scotch brite pad a second time, and cleaned with dawn again. I sprayed Tamiya ps gunmetal with very light coats, probably around 7-8 coats.

Now the issue. Around the hood area, the paint has started to flake a little. Any ideas what I did wrong, I really don’t want that to happen again. I’ve ran it 4 times, and about 2 square cm are clear.

Same thing with my corvette body i think its because the paint is too thick or u didnt wait long enough between coats.

 

[Clubin]

One coat. Maybe two. You applied way too much paint.

 

[kspitters]

One coat. Maybe two. You applied way too much paint.

After one coat you could still see through it just a little bit. After 6 you could see it wasn’t great coverage when you held it up to the light.

 

[Garcbomber]

Yeah after the first medium coat if you notice uneven coverage or runoff from oil/contaminates just let it cure and wetsand the area to blend and respray. Piling up more will just continue to bleed

 

[Clubin]

After one coat you could still see through it just a little bit. After 6 you could see it wasn’t great coverage when you held it up to the light.

Translucent paint is like that, no matter how many coats it will still be see through. You could have applied 2 even coats then painted it white. But that’s touchy because it almost always looks splotchy.

Opaque is what you want.

 

[kspitters]

Translucent paint is like that, no matter how many coats it will still be see through. You could have applied 2 even coats then painted it white. But that’s touchy because it almost always looks splotchy.

Opaque is what you want.

Okay, thanks for the info. Could you give me an example of an opaque color, because I had thought the gunmetal gray was.


I’m also thinking it could just be from how cold it was, it sat in the garage which did a freeze thaw cycle 4-5 times. We now have around a foot of snow.

 

[Clubin]

Paints can be either. Usually identified on the container. Looks like Tamiya uses the lid as the identifier. Always translucent is identified. If opaque the lid won’t be see through. Example of translucent below.

I airbrush and this comes up lots. Easy to screw up if it’s not what you’re expecting.

 

[kspitters]

Paints can be either. Usually identified on the container. Looks like Tamiya uses the lid as the identifier. Always translucent is identified. If opaque the lid won’t be see through. Example of translucent below.

I airbrush and this comes up lots. Easy to screw up if it’s not what you’re expecting. View attachment 274224

Just a small spot, but right below the scratch.

 

[Surchaufeur]

In my case paint started coming off after a big hit the spots where the lexan flexed a lot it just peeled everything off