Fireteam New Fireteam Pinion Wear

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RCbuzz

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 8S
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Mojave EXB
  5. Senton 3s
Is this pretty normal for a new Fireteam or 6S RC?

I really dislike the narrow spur but am also not sure how the 6S "beds" into the pinion and how quickly.

It appears Horizon bench tested the unit and tested the HB (some small metal shavings around the HB).

6s ft pinion.jpg
 
Between a pinion or a spur gear..
I'll take letting the pinion getting the early wear down anytime. Much easier and cheaper to replace.
 
Is this pretty normal for a new Fireteam or 6S RC?

I really dislike the narrow spur but am also not sure how the 6S "beds" into the pinion and how quickly.

It appears Horizon bench tested the unit and tested the HB (some small metal shavings around the HB).

View attachment 271411

I'd run it and keep trucking. I would check the mesh between the two before running. When you start to run it...they will begin to marry and create their own wear. Make sure the mesh is good so that as it wears during normal usage, the break-in is clean.

Have fun with it (y)
 
I'd run it and keep trucking. I would check the mesh between the two before running. When you start to run it...they will begin to marry and create their own wear. Make sure the mesh is good so that as it wears during normal usage, the break-in is clean.

Have fun with it (y)
Between a pinion or a spur gear..
I'll take letting the pinion getting the early wear down anytime. Much easier and cheaper to replace.
Thanks guys! Mesh is a tad bit loose. Going to try and get those slide screws loose and snug it up a bit better. First try, they are TIGHT.
 
Thanks guys! Mesh is a tad bit loose. Going to try and get those slide screws loose and snug it up a bit better. First try, they are TIGHT.
Yeah....if you have a torch or heat them with a soldering iron. Seems all too common, unfortunately...
 
Yeah....if you have a torch or heat them with a soldering iron. Seems all too common, unfortunately...
On my K8S I used a soldering iron. 10min later it still didn't budge..

Ended up using an old bit and it finally came loose. Had to replace the screw though.
 
On my K8S I used a soldering iron. 10min later it still didn't budge..

Ended up using an old bit and it finally came loose. Had to replace the screw though.

Been there...

Years I was destroying screws on wheels, hex, motor mounts, etc until I got one of these... Amazing how well direct blue flame on a screw that will not let go on loctite comes loose after one of these... love mine

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-ST2200T-Butane-Micro-Torch-330194/100564678
 
Been there...

Years I was destroying screws on wheels, hex, motor mounts, etc until I got one of these... Amazing how well direct blue flame on a screw that will not let go on loctite comes loose after one of these... love mine

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-ST2200T-Butane-Micro-Torch-330194/100564678
Yup love mine as well.
I also have a smaller torch lighter which you have to hold to keep the flame. I was not enough for my Fireteam's wheel grub screws which seemed to be glued (or had complete bucket of red locktite on them; that sh1t was everwhere).
Got the bigger torch out (like the one in your link) which has a much bigger flame and a lock function to keep the flame burning. Luckily afte a while I got the grub screws out. Never ever had to use so much (long) heat before. I always re-install grub screws without locktite.
 
Was wondering how the Talion gearing looked after several packs. And to my surprise it looks great!? :unsure:

This new FT pinion looks totally chewed up in comparison. I think I will pickup a new one after a couple packs.

Pic of the used talion attached.

20230122_164454.jpg

I should mention the mesh is a little loose too on the Talion (stock).
 
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