New Fury BLX, do I need to downgrade gearing?

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New Fury BLX, do I need to downgrade gearing?

Klimko

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Hello,

I am picking up my Fury BLX at Hobbytown later today.

Just some background: I have been in the hobby for about a year now. I have owned a couple of RTR's including the 2wd Torment and Helion Criterion. I bash a bit outside with my son who drives a Team Associated SC10 2wd. We also spend some time at the local indoor track which is moist dirt.
My question is this... I keep hearing how much crazy torque the Fury's BLX motor has and I have seen some suggest it is best to re-gear it to keep the front tires down and from spinning the rear tires..
I plan on changing tires right away which might help a bit. But, I've bought a truck with speed for a reason! I want to go faster!! But, for racing things always need to be tuned.. so what do you think?

I was thinking I'd just start with a 7.2 V NMIH to start and see if it's really an issue. But, if it needs to be geared-down I want to buy the parts and get rolling. Thanks!!
 

Unusual RC

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I "downgraded" my BLX system to a 2 pole 3650 sensored motor and esc, in order to have more control over the throttle.
I also race where throttle control is much more important than for hardcore bashing.

If you gear it down, you will get even more outrageous torque on the rear wheels, lifting that nose more up.

You can set on the ESC the punch setting to level 1 (stock on level 3).
See the manual page 24:

http://www.arrma-rc.com/pdf/manuals/ARB10340_3.pdf

This will make driving at slow speeds more easy.
Maybe add a lower kv motor like a 3000kv?
 

Klimko

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I "downgraded" my BLX system to a 2 pole 3650 sensored motor and esc, in order to have more control over the throttle.
I also race where throttle control is much more important than for hardcore bashing.

If you gear it down, you will get even more outrageous torque on the rear wheels, lifting that nose more up.

You can set on the ESC the punch setting to level 1 (stock on level 3).
See the manual page 24:

http://www.arrma-rc.com/pdf/manuals/ARB10340_3.pdf

This will make driving at slow speeds more easy.
Maybe add a lower kv motor like a 3000kv?

Thank you so much for your reply Unusual. I have seen some of your other posts and appreciate your perspective. While I have your attention... I have a nice pair of soft Pro-line tires I plan on putting on the back. How are the front tires? The sides are certainly too firm for a back tire, but I'm thinking they might be okay for front tires. Can you share your thoughts? Thanks again!!
 

Unusual RC

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Thank you so much for your reply Unusual. I have seen some of your other posts and appreciate your perspective. While I have your attention... I have a nice pair of soft Pro-line tires I plan on putting on the back. How are the front tires? The sides are certainly too firm for a back tire, but I'm thinking they might be okay for front tires. Can you share your thoughts? Thanks again!!

The sidewalls of the stock Fury tires are quite hard. A more round tire profile gives better handling on dirt.

I did test some different tires front and back from Medial Pro. Both soft compound.
It all depends on the type of surface you are driving on. And besides the hardness of the tires, the thread is even more important for the best traction and steering.

I often run the same softness tires front and aft, but have square spikes larger at the back than front. This works well on more loose surfaces.

You can tune the way the car goes in and out of corners by changing thread front and back differently, and on hard surfaces the hardness of the tire can influence that.
But the same can also be achieved by changing spring stiffness front and aft differently

Nevertheless the same tire front and aft is a good way to start tuning your ride.

So many factors, so many options.
I have no fixed recipe unfortunately ;)
 

Klimko

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Thank you again!! Are you still running the Medial Pro's? If so what model? If not, what are you using now? My track's surface is firm dirt/clay. Not loose at all.
 

Unusual RC

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Thank you again!! Are you still running the Medial Pro's? If so what model? If not, what are you using now? My track's surface is firm dirt/clay. Not loose at all.

I use the Velox (large square pins thread, good as rear tires) and Blade (small square pins thread, my front tires)

WP_20170126_19_05_50_Rich (2).jpg
(left Blade, Velox at the right)

I would not recommend them to you, because:
  • your track has hard packed clay, other tire threads are more suitable for that
  • Medial Pro sells to my knowledge pre glued wheels only. Those are prone to sucking up dirt, see this topic for details
I would recommend to check at your local track what other people are using for tires.
Unfortunately, I have not found any chart which tire will suit which surface best.
 

Skaxis

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I am picking up my Fury BLX at Hobbytown later today.

My question is this... I keep hearing how much crazy torque the Fury's BLX motor has and I have seen some suggest it is best to re-gear it to keep the front tires down and from spinning the rear tires.

I wold suggest that this is a problem of driver throttle control and not equipment. ;)

I plan on changing tires right away which might help a bit. But, I've bought a truck with speed for a reason! I want to go faster!! But, for racing things always need to be tuned.. so what do you think?

The stock tires that come with the Fury are designed for general purpose bashing, to include asphalt. So keep them around if you ever want to run it on the pavement. Tower Hobbies put the Arrma Fury wheels on sale fairly regularly for just $2.99 a pair. At that price you can have a number of different wheels/tire combinations!

I have found that the ProLine Blockades work GREAT in loose dirt and grass. Simply fantastic. I would strongly suggest getting a set of those. As far as proper track driving goes, just ask around the track what the popular tires are and in what compound as has been suggested. JConcepts will put SCT tires on sale for dirt cheap. Often they'll come with foams even at that price. I just bought 48 pairs of JConcepts Pressure Points for $1.99 a pair. :cool: While they aren't the preferred tire at my track (ProLine Electrons hold that honor for 2WD SCT) at $1.99 a pair I simply couldn't pass up the deal.

I was thinking I'd just start with a 7.2 V NMIH to start and see if it's really an issue. But, if it needs to be geared-down I want to buy the parts and get rolling. Thanks!!

For bashing the NiMh batteries are fine. However if you're going to race you'll want LiPo. While NiMh will have more juice at first, they taper off quickly. Add to that their higher weight and for racing NiMh is simply yesterdays news. ProTek make a great battery for not a lot of cash. Get at least 35C but 50C+ would be better.

Good luck with your Fury!
 

Klimko

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Okay...I had the BLX at the track this past weekend. Dang... it's fast!! I was using a Lipo 2s, and I had a heck of a time getting the tires to hook up. I fought it for a couple of packs and then a guy with a Select 4 told me to reverse my tires. I had tires with little spikes on the back and a short course clay tire on the front. He was right! Made a big difference. Having some grip up front made a huge difference with not pushing through the corners. It also helped me keep the front end straight between turns. The back end was jumping around way too much with the tires the other way.

I'm VERY happy with this truck. I backed the punch down to 1 and I could still take the triple from a dead stop only 5-6 feet from it. That's something only buggies do on our track. I heard a couple of loud whoas when I was able to get some momentum into the triple and cleared it by several feet.

Stock shock set up seems fine. Although with this thing's jumping power I'm guessing I'll blow a shock cap soon. I also want to buy a quicker servo. The stock is fine, but I felt the delay was causing me to over-correct at times. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Lastly... the durability was great! No issues at all. There was a 7 or 8 year old kid that was driving a Traxxas around the track at full speed completely out of control. Many drivers left the track annoyed. I wanted to get a couple more runs with my Fury and stayed out. That kid must of plowed into my car 4-5 times at full speed. No issues! Finally, I was upside down (yes... it happens), and he plowed into me full speed. I was SO MAD, I went down to pick up my truck and not any issues. Not even a crack in the body!

Loving my Arrma Fury!!
 

Skaxis

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I run Savox servos in my race rigs. They are notoriously power hungry and will almost guaranteed require you to use a "glitch buster" capacitor to avoid brown outs. The ADS-7m in your BLX has a transition time of .14 sec which as you discovered is a bit slow for racing. Try to get one that is under .10 sec.

The Savox SC-1258TG has a transition time of .08 sec and costs $60 from amain. It also sports an aluminum housing for heat dissipation as well as titanium gears for extreme durability. Savox uses the same 25T spline as Arrma so you won't need a new servo horn. I have had issues fitting Savox servos in my Fury because their mount point locations are slightly different than the Arrma which results in the servo spline being farther forward. Others have adjusted using spacers so it's certainly possible to use Savox servos in your Fury.

You will need a free Rx port to use a glitch buster capacitor and if you're racing the lap timer likely takes up a Rx port already. If you run out of ports you may find yourself looking at a new transmitter/receiver. If that's the case, I suggest either the Futaba 4PV or the Spektrum DX4C.

Welcome to racing!
 

Unusual RC

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The Savox SC-1258TG has a transition time of .08 sec and costs $60 from amain. It also sports an aluminum housing for heat dissipation as well as titanium gears for extreme durability. Savox uses the same 25T spline as Arrma so you won't need a new servo horn. I have had issues fitting Savox servos in my Fury because their mount point locations are slightly different than the Arrma which results in the servo spline being farther forward. Others have adjusted using spacers so it's certainly possible to use Savox servos in your Fury.

That's the one I have in my Fury BLX for over two years.
WP_20150403_15_53_11_Pro.jpg
The stock BLX ESC can handle it without problems I can assure you!

I love this servo, it really enhances the handling of the car because of it's speed.
I simply love it! Well worth the extra cash!
 

Skaxis

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It's by far the most popular servo used by the SCT drivers, both 2WD and 4WD.
 
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